My air-cooled to 1.8t build

[xoo00oox]

Here's another picture you find useful, it shows AEB serpentine belt for turning only the alternator, you may be able to zoom in and see what the part number is of that belt.

[revolution337]

[danfromsyr]

indeed that's the later style


here's a great build (into a VW Rabbit) that shows the AEB Alt/Water pump only arrangement.

you have to modify the former belt driven fan mount.

this guy ended up with a 40x5rib belt
but iirc, I think mine is a 39.5x5 but what's a 1/2 right.

https://boostedrabbit.wordpress.com/page/2/
specifically https://boostedrabbit.wordpress.com/2010/08/01/serpentine-belt-setup/

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[xoo00oox]

Oooopsy, you're right. Here's an AEB with only the coolant pump and the alternator being turned...

But, don't route yours like this or the coolant pump will spin the wrong way, do it the way Dan has shown.

[revolution337]

Great information, thanks guys! I was aware of being able to use the VR6 water pump pulley, but wasn't sure what to do about the old belt driven fan clutch pulley situation. It seems as though he just took that big alternator/power steering/fan clutch bracket off the engine and cut off all the stuff he didn't need.

Also noted the belt lengths used.

[Vanagon Nut]

[revolution337]

I plan on running the AEB at 15* with this setup. But good info, non-the-less

[Vanagon Nut]

^^

Cool.

You will enjoy having less of a bump in the engine cover. My ABA 15º engine cover has a ~ 4" tub.

Neil.
_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[revolution337]

Minor progress...got a bunch of new parts/gaskets/seals for the engine. Figure now is the time to do the work, when the engine is out and easy to work on!

Silicone crankcase breather lines to replace the crumbling original ones, courtesy of 034 Motorsports.

Aluminum coolant flange, replacing the often faulty plastic units

Also took this time to pull apart and rebuild the alternator.

Original brushes on top, new ones on bottom

Also, my clutch, flywheel, and adapter plate have all arrived from KEP! (sorry, no pictures of it at this time)

[revolution337]

Does anyone happen to have a source for the pinouts of the 5 colored engine harness-to-body plugs? I've found several different wiring diagrams for the engine harness and interior harness, but have been unable to find a diagram that specifically identifies all of the wiring within these 5 colored connectors.

I want to verify which wires are needed/not needed so I can trim away unnecessary wiring. The engine is from a '99 Passat AEB.

[danfromsyr]

check this
http://www.taligentx.com/files/Passat-AEB_ECU_Wiring_Diagram.pdf

there is a chart out there I'll search for.
edit, here https://www.audizine.com/forum/showthread.php/701050-audi-aeb-ecu-pinout


there's also some in Chris T3 technique 1.8T build thread iirc.
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[danfromsyr]

here book mark and read Chris' 1.8T build thread
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=378731&highlight=1.8t


note that there is a change in the Waterpump for the early passat 1.8T
you need to use a water pump from a 2.0l ABA jetta/golf.

conversation in Chris' other thread here
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=538069&highlight=1.8t
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[revolution337]

Thanks Dan!

I've already read through all of Chris's 1.8t threads and saw his wiring diagrams. I also already have a copy of that engine wiring diagram you have referenced. I was more hoping to find a diagram or pin-out specifically of the body connectors, as opposed to the ECU connectors.

I don't think that diagram exists though lol. I just have to search through the other existing diagrams and piece it together myself.

[danfromsyr]

it's been a while for my swap, but shouldn't that be the connector column in the chart?

plus it's good to have these cross referenced for future 1.8T swap searches.
more bread crumbs more successes.
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[revolution337]

[levi]

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...p;start=20
_________________
One of these days I'm gonna settle down,
but till I do I won't be hangin round.
Going down that long lonesome highway,
gonna see life my way

https://youtu.be/cSrL0BXsO40

[Tbob]

Saw your comment on the space heater, and thought I would share my experience heating garages in frozen spaces. My experience is with uninsulated 2 car garages in both in Chicago and in Southern Indiana, both frozen wastelands when it comes to working in the garage in winter. No 110 volt space heater will put out enough heat to really change the situation. As they are limited to 1500 watts of power consumed, they are just to small.Since they consume 1500 watts of power, almost 15 amps at 110 volts, you can't use more than one per 20 amp circuit safely. So using a bunch of then is not safe unless you have that same number of 20 anp circuits.
For years I used a Ready heater 35,000 BTU kerosene torpedo heater, and it took the edge off, but you had to keep the garage door open to allow it to vent, somewhat negating the effect in really cold weather.
About 10 years ago, I installed a 100,000 BTU furnace dedicated for the garage. When it is 20 degrees out, the furnace will heat the garage to 65-70 degrees, running efffectively full time. I only heat the garage when I an working out there to not spend too much on natural gas. It cannot heat it any hotter than 70 degrees.
The takeaway from this is, in my now non frozen opinion, is to use something that can add enough heat to counteract the heat loss, Uninsulated, no ceiling garage? You need more than little electric heaters to even take the chill off.
_________________
1969 Deluxe, owned since 1973
1973 Westfalia, owned since 1983
1980 Westfalia, watercooled conversion
1985 Westfalia, stock!
1986 Westfakia, Audi I-4 conversion
A couple of trucks and a couple of Jeeps

[danfromsyr]

Ooo now we're talking garage heaters,
I have a large barn that's impracticable to heat all the air in, as it leaks out as fast as you heat it (convection ya know).
I use 2 radiant tank top propane heaters. one on each side of me and my work area.. the radiant is unaffected by air loss and heats the area/objects I am working on.
I do this effectively with 2x 15k btu of propane, they can go higher but to not much increase in comfort.
it does help that I have 4 20# propane bottles to make swapping out easier.
I get many many days of work per tank on the lower BTU. it's the red/infrared light that's heating ya.
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[revolution337]

All I have right now is an electric infrared heater hanging directly above where I do most of my work. It's enough to keep the edge off, so long as you don't move more than 5 feet away from underneath it.

I've also had some decent luck with a Big Buddy propane heater. Again, only when working within the same small vicinity though.

[revolution337]

More engine parts removed and cleaned...

Also modified the giant alternator/PS/fan clutch bracket so that I am able to run the VR6 water pump pulley without any issues. I do not currently have (or plan to add) power steering or A/C, so the belt will only be driving the water pump and alternator.

How it started

Halfway through cutting...

All finished cutting, photo shows the two pieces I removed from the bracket. I kept most of the unit, as it has mounting bolts for the water pump. The bracket also has a threaded hole that is used for a support rod for the intake manifold. I was able to retain both of these functions while eliminating the fan clutch hub and power steering bracket.

When I first picked up the Passat, I noticed a rattle on decal coming from the turbo area. I assumed it was from the waste gate flapper, and I was correct. It is very loose, and actually is starting to form a crack around its start. Also found several other cracks in the turbine housing. Looks like its time for a new turbo!

Now for questions. I am thinking of going the route of using long marine grade rubber hose for the coolant lines up to the radiator. My question for those who have done so, is there a particular size that fits best? I'm having the best luck locating 1.25" hose. I'm unable to find the O.D. measurements of the hose though, so I can't say if the two hoses will be able to fit through the holes in the van crossmember. Can anyone chime in with their experience?