My air-cooled to 1.8t build

[simd0ggie]

Looks like you have one with a resistor. So that means a small amount of current will be flowing ALL THE TIME. Not usually good, unless your supply switches off with the key. Resistor type is not polarity sensitive.

A relay with a diode is better - it will have the surge suppression, will not allow current to pass all the time, but it will be polarity sensitive. So positive must be connected to 86 and neg to 85.

Think of the diode as a check valve, allowing current to flow in one direction. When you apply power to 85, the coil energizes. When you turn the power to 85 off, the coil de-energizes, and the current spike from the coil just goes round and round through the diode and dissipates as heat.

Here's a website that explains the differences. https://www.12voltplanet.co.uk/relay-guide.html
_________________
-Matt
'85 Westfalia w/EJ25, '14 Tiguan R-Line 4 Motion

"There are two possible outcomes: if the result confirms the hypothesis, then you've made a measurement. If the result is contrary to the hypothesis, then you've made a discovery.”

[Vanagon Nut]

[simd0ggie]

Any time you have a sensitive output device (ex: ECU) driving the relay coil, you should have a diode for surge suppression to protect the output device, in my opinion. However - you have to be careful when you do your wiring - if you get it backwards the diode will act like a direct short.

And to answer your question, NO, it has nothing to do with 30 and 87
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-Matt
'85 Westfalia w/EJ25, '14 Tiguan R-Line 4 Motion

"There are two possible outcomes: if the result confirms the hypothesis, then you've made a measurement. If the result is contrary to the hypothesis, then you've made a discovery.”

[Vanagon Nut]

[simd0ggie]

Here's the deal. You cannot change the current through a coil instantaneously. When the circuit opens, the voltage will spike to infinity to try and cross the infinite resistance of the open circuit. (This is how your ignition works). So when the circuit opens the coil tries to keep flowing current, so it just goes round and round back through the diode, coil, diode, coil, until it's dissipated - rather than jumping (arcing) across the output device (Ex: ECU).
_________________
-Matt
'85 Westfalia w/EJ25, '14 Tiguan R-Line 4 Motion

"There are two possible outcomes: if the result confirms the hypothesis, then you've made a measurement. If the result is contrary to the hypothesis, then you've made a discovery.”

[revolution337]

[revolution337]

Oh boy where does the time go. Hard to believe its been almost a year since I have updated with this thread. Unfortunately, sometimes life gets in the way of personal projects like this. With the recent COVID-19 situation progressing in the world, I, like many others, have found some extra free time due to quarantining.

So updates since my last post (lots-o-pictures)

Finished up the wiring harness to mate the engine to the van chassis. All is needs once its in the van in switched 12v, constant 12v, and a ground.

Test fitting the harness and ECU into my custom ECU box This box will sit under the reach bench seat, I am hoping my measurements are correct and that the OE harness has enough length to reach this location.

I ran a multi stranded wire from the cluster area to reach bench seat, to use a signal wire for the OBD plug, as well as the CEL signal. Also, I wired in the OBD plug near the front lower fuse panel.

Got my new VANAGONLIFE locking center console installed, complete with battery kill switch.

Ran heater and coolant lines to front radiator and heater switch. Used some custom 1.25" to 1.5" stainless adapters to mate up the hoses.

Trimmed and smoothed transmission input shaft

Started work on engine air filter box and mounting. Its OE box and filter from a Cobra Mustang, mounted behind the left rear tail light area.

I had to make a mount for the new fuel pump, as well as the fuel filter. Simple pieces made of out flat aluminum bar. Also, I was in need of a band mount for the fuel pump. Turns out the band for the original ignition coil is a perfect fit for the fuel pump as well, so I used that!

Finally, just today I was able to mock the engine and harness up to a 12v battery and test if my harness would work. Everything checked out great! When powered up in the "key on" position, the fuel pump primed for a few seconds then shut off, just as it should. Also everything else was getting the proper voltage signals, and I could hear the throttle performing its calibration as well.

Hopefully it won't be much longer until I can get the drivetrain into the van!

[Vanagon Nut]

Nice to see the progress and work!

Did you have someone make the stainless transition pipes for hoses? Or is that something one can get at a jegs or whatever?

Nice looking shielded multi wire cable.

Neil.
_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[revolution337]

[Vanagon Nut]

[revolution337]

As I get ready to marry the drivetrain to the van, I have a few questions for anyone who has done this AEB swap. I have browsed through almost all of the 1.8t related threads I could find on the Samba and noted a few differences between how people when about mounting the engine.

I have noticed that most people are saying that the engine sticks up about 1.5 inches above the deck lid level, so the use of a raised deck lid is necessary. But I have come across a few people who have stated that they were able to fit the engine underneath the factory deck lid, even when mounted at 15 degrees.

example of 15 degree mounting underneath decklid:

example of raised deck lid, again at 15 degrees:

Can anyone elaborate on why/how people seem to be able to do both? Is one better than the other? Does one put more stress or angles on CV joints or shifter mechanism? Ground clearance issues? Maybe it's something obvious that I am missing. Is it as simple as spacing down the front transmission mount and engine bar until the entire package sits below deck lid level?

I would like to have a solid game plan for how I am going to make my engine support bar before I get that point.

[Vanagon Nut]

Is it possible some of the AEB swaps you see are installed in a Syncro which might allow for engine to be lower in engine bay?

FWIW, on my 1988 ABA swap, I set the engine lower down than most would've and did so only at the engine supports. Shifter works ok but unless you swapped to the WBX tranny, maybe that info isn't relevant. Still, I'd think there's some leeway on the air cooled linkage.

On a related note, one thing I could've done better: align drivetrain ("center" it) so that both driveshafts have similar amounts of L/R play. i.e. my passenger side driveshaft feels awfully close to the plastic disc at tranny output flange.

Neil.

I'd suggest taking this with a "grain of salt" in terms of measurements, but here's where my WBX engine crank centre was. This was with new engine mounts.

_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[revolution337]

Neil,

I am unsure whether or not any of the vans were syncros or 2WD. My though was that even if it was a 2WD, I could just properly space down the trans mount and engine mustache bar to properly get the engine package to fit below the deck lid. The only thing I’m unsure of if why some people are doing it one way, and some are doing it another.

[Vanagon Nut]

[xoo00oox]

If it's a syncro I put them in under the stock engine lid, if it's a 2wd I use a 2 inch spacer to raise the engine lid. As Neil has stated, it's mostly to keep a good amount of ground clearance without raising the van up. Just depends on what you want to do. I believe you are correct in that you will need to do some customizing of the transmission mount and/or shifter if you try to keep it under the stock decklid.
The one air-cooled to 1.8t I did I extended the shift rod and trans mount to bring it toward the rear of the van so it sat where the water cooled vans did.

[vanagonjr]

[Zeitgeist 13]

In this pic you can see that I lowered and shifted the trans mount backwards in order to mount my ALH below the lid. Since I'm using an aircooled DK trans, you can also see the mods I made to the shift rod.

_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[Vanagon Nut]

Casey: did you use some kind of pad between tranny mount and frame to help isolate engine noise?

@ revolution337

for point of reference, the engine on my 15º swap is set close to the same height as the air cooled was. That and the horrid looking under oil pan carrier limit ground clearance by 2-3". Regardless, I've gone into lots of camp spots via dirt road w/o any real issue. Yes I've bounced that carrier off some rocks, dirt etc but basically, the lost ground clearance has not been a "show stopper". But on some dirt roads, I have to pick my lines really carefully which sometime means driving so that 2 tires are close to or at the hump in road, if present. Not always ideal though.

Neil.
_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[tristessa]

[Zeitgeist 13]