Gas pedal too sensitive

[mojan_n]

edited:
This is my first bug that I bought it couple month ago.
I think the gas pedal is too sensitive. Specially when I’m in first gear if I depress the gas pedal just a little bit the car starts raving up too fast.
Is there any way to make the gas pedal less sensitive?

[KTPhil]

This can be caused by a broken front transmission mount. As soon as the engine rocks from getting a little gas, it pulls the accelerometer cable even more and amplifies the action at the carb.

[mojan_n]

[KTPhil]

How did you check the mount? Visually doesn't cut it; you have to jack it up or have someone follow you and watch your tailpipes when you floor it in a low gear.
Do you have a stock carb and pedal, or something aftermarket?
Is the pedal assembly clean and not bent or broken?
Return springs (carb and pedal) connected correctly?

[h~moto]

What year is your car? There was a change in the accelerator pedal system during the 1966 model year.

[andk5591]

You can loosen the cable at the carb a little, but the car rocking needs further investigation as mentioned. Usually the rear mounts are gone. Have an autostick on the lift right now that had that and the rear mounts visually didnt look real bad, but once we pulled them out, the one side was in 2 pieces.
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[slalombuggy]

Install a heavier throttle return spring on the carb, or double up the factory ones.

brad

[mojan_n]

[FeelthySanchez]

Had this nuisance/problem decades ago, & adding more throttle return spring pressure didn't help at all: the solid-wire throttle cable was galling inside the tube.
Check the mouth of the throttle cable tube precisely @ the arrow for any signs of grooving or abrasion, usually noted around the 09:00 position.
For the record, braided cables from later models seem less prone to this nasty habit, & it never hurts to add a dab of heavy grease to the tube's ID w/ a Q-Tip:

_________________

[mojan_n]

[FeelthySanchez]

[slalombuggy]

[56Cabrio]

[herbie1200]

The spring should be adjusted at the MINIMUM force, just enough to return pedal in the initial position.

All the force provided by the spring acts directly on the carburetor bushing, that worns itself until idling is no more stable.

A lot of carburetors are ruined due to a too-strong adjusting of the return string.

Note: 28Pict1 carburetors have no vertical spring so they do not suffer of this erasure.

[67rustavenger]

Op,
Is this just a case of, when you are in 1st gear. You tap the pedal and the car lurches forward?
Then you try to adjust your footing on the pedal you find the car kinda bucks a bit.
When the inertia of the first buck sends you back into the seat padding and then when you take your foot off the pedal, the deceleration causes you to hit the pedal again?
Starting the bucking motion that you can't overcome until you take your foot off the pedal so things settle down.

When I learned to drive a stick shift 49 years ago. The tube framed sand rail I was learning in. Had a roller pedal. It sucked! The thing bucked all over the beach. I hated that rail.

If this is your case. Try letting the right side of your accelerator foot, glide along the carpet on the tunnel while applying pressure to the pedal. The friction should reduce, the bucking issue.
If this is what your experiencing.

Good Luck.
_________________
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There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
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[pbenn]

OP: on the trans mount check, a trick I have seen is to grab the exhaust pipes and try to move the engine up and down. Movement equals bad mounts, more or less.

[glutamodo]

My "trick" for checking for a bad front mount is to drive the car in 2nd gear like 20 MPH or so, then start stomping on and letting off the gas pedal, while holding tight on the gearshift lever. If you can feel the lever jumping all over the place, bad front mount.

20MPH is kind of sweet spot for the syndrome described above about the drivetrain shifting back and forth with a bad front mount. Last time I had this problem, I found it IMPOSSIBLE to hold 20MPH in school zones in 2nd gear.
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Andy T.


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[mojan_n]

[67rustavenger]

I suspected so.
Try what I typed. Lay your right foot against then tunnel when pressing on the pedal. You should get better control from the friction of the carpet or the rubber mat.

This situation, is why I like my later (67 ) accelerator pedal.
But for what it is worth. Even my car (me) does what I have described above too, when I press the pedal too quickly.

Really. It takes practice. You'll get it. I have had 49 years to perfect the pedal roll/drag on the tunnel method.
You have had 4 months.

You can try the stiffer throttle spring for a bit. But after a while. You'll get tired of overcoming the spring pressure and go back to the stock setup. Especially during a long drive.
Say from Fremont to L.A. and back. That'll wear you out!

Good Luck.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[KTPhil]

It's been asked, but what year is your car? Later models had an improved pedal linkage. The old design was prone to wear, jamming, excess play, which can cause jumpiness. The "z" linkage had to be clean, aligned, not worn or bent, and positioned perfectly with the correct spring and other hardware.

How about posting a photo of your pedal assembly, especially the pivot and linkage parts?