Install an electronic ignition on a manual ignition Dometic?

[davidascher]

My wife is pretty annoyed with the manual ignition process on the mid 80s dometic. I saw a video showing off the electronic igniter and that seemed smart but I don’t know if it’s possible to retrofit on a manual setup. Any pointers?

[Ahwahnee]

I recall threads where this has been done. I considered it for about a minute then decided what I have works and puts me in control of the sparky - so I left it be.

[jmranger]

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=509217
See Otmar's video near the bottom of the first page.

[davidascher]

Thanks jmranger Otmar's video is what started me down this path. I was hoping for some more details about the wiring of the high voltage wire in particular -- because the stock fridge of that era is manually triggered I don't understand where the high voltage lead would connect to.

[Timwhy]

I did Otmar's upgrade to my fridge a couple of years ago. The ignitor uses the 12 volt side not high voltage. Really great mod! Thank you Otmar!!

Otmars' pic with added connection labels. Save the pic and blow it up for reference.

_________________
'15 Audi A3 Quattro
'09 VW Tiguan (dead)
'87 VW Westy
'91 Tin Top
'90 Cabby
What the Westy wants the Westy GETS


http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_search.php?search_author=Timwhy&show_results=summary

http://www.youtube.com/user/TIMWHY2?feature=mhee

[jmranger]

[davidascher]

jmranger sorry somehow I never noticed your reply. It's indeed as simple as you say!

I just (finally) did the install. It's mostly working on the bench, with one caveat -- the igniter doesn't stop clicking even after there's a flame. Also the spark also sounds quieter than it does in that video. All I can think that I can do to adjust things is the spark gap, which I imagine could affect the igniter's measurement of resistance (which, as I understand it, is how it detects the presence of a flame). I'm planning to try some adjustments with the spark gap tomorrow but if there's something else which could cause not-stopping let me know!

[Timwhy]

[davidascher]

I did. But I realized after posting that I forgot to ground the negative 12v line to the chassis. I’ll try that next.

[DLJ]

you mentioned that your spark doesn't sound as loud as it should.
Make sure that your high tension wire (to electrode) is well insulated. A leak
could cause a lighter spark.

[davidascher]

Ah, that's a great point @DLJ. I noticed some fraying on the insulation near the combustion chamber. I may wrap it in some heat-shrink tubing and electrical tape and see if it helps. Is there a good source for a replacement lead?

[Howesight]

David:

Since you are in Vancouver, why don't you just grab my (free) 1991 Dometic? I will not use it again and it worked when removed to install my Truckfridge TF-65. It will be one less thing in the crawl space for me and Mrs. Howesight.
_________________
'86 Syncro Westy SVX

[davidascher]

@Howesight -- Thanks! I sent you a DM but maybe that didn't get to you? I'm interested. (especially since my high tension wire seems to be falling apart)

[jmranger]

[davidascher]

Thanks @jmranger.

Latest developments: two days ago, everything was working well (even got the igniter to stop clicking once the flame was lit. Yesterday, the igniter now only clicks if I don't have the lead plugged in. I'm baffled. Hoping Howsight logs back on soon =)

[davidascher]

Final update: While I wait for Howesight to return, I pulled out the fancy igniter and put back the piezo switch. The fridge has worked flawlessly since, even staying lit while driving, which never happened before. Thanks for the help everyone.