Clodhopper/74 pan Novice buggy build on a budget (lots of pics)

[El Piojo]

I am starting this thread to keep record and gain insight into what to do and what not to do. I got a 74 beetle in a trade a few months ago and got bit by the bug. The P/O had attempted a horrible chop top and destroyed the beetle body so I decided to build a buggy. I found a Clodhopper body that needs a little work and that is how it all started. I am not a very good welder or fabricator but I learn fast. And thanks to Youtube and The Samba I have the confidence to complete this build. So please feel free to tell me what I am doing wrong I am very open to constructive criticism. Here are some pics of the past couple months to where I am now. I am setting a goal of having it on the road before the end of next summer.

[Tom_Kathleen]

My 1st buggy was a Clodhopper. In picture #10, you have some blue tape on the bottom of the "wells" in the back seat area. My buggy also had IRS. I cut the "wells" completely flush to the floor to allow full travel, but you may be able to leave a little of them still there. Good luck with the build! Tom
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Manxter #16, 1968 Meyers Manx & Kick-Out SS #16 (WIP)
Manx Club & CVA

[El Piojo]

I took about two inches off the bottom for starters but im worried I wont have room for the battery if remove more. Did you have the same issue?

[El Piojo]

So I made another mistake I just finished welding the pan and it is crooked. So tell me am I being to picky or is this as bad as I think?

What are my options? I dont want to cut and weld again for the third time. Can I use some chain and anchors to twist it? Any feedback welcome.

[Merk]

Hello:
That's a good looking body.

Here's a few recommendations. Get and keep the chassis level while you build. The front an back can be at different heights but it must be level side to side. For a project like this a smooth piece of concrete is good and yours looks good. Put the front beam back on and use jack stands. Get it solid and level. Measure down to the floor to confirm. A straight edge, level, string, and a tape measure is good enough. When you get that done see if it will sit on all 4 points if it will then you can build from where you are. If it wants to sit high on 1 corner you will have to cut it someplace to release the tension. Maybe get some new full size pan halves and shorten as needed. Also get some cross measurements and check it for square.

I'm interested in how it measures out.

Merk

[El Piojo]

Thank you Merk!! I would have never thought of putting the front beam back on to check level it makes perfect sense. I will do this tonight and update.

Thanks,

[Dale M.]

Yeah with front beam on you can actually sigh side to side level from front beam to rear torsion tube if you have good eye sight...

Also for squaring chassis you can measure by using "X" method from felt front of beam to right rear of torsion and right front of beam to left rear of torsion....

Spots you chose to measure from needs to be consistent on front and rear, and both measurements need to be same for square chassis...

My preferred method of set up is using a couple of matching size timbers (4x4) on garage floor at least (higher would be better) and use them like chassis build table .... First I level the timers side to side, front to rear using shims and wedges and that gives "flat" platform to do all your work off of...

What you do now to get it as straight and square will make difference in how it drives/handles later...

Dale
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“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
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All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[El Piojo]

Ok, I am an idiot. "If you are going to do stupid things it helps to be smart enough to fix them". I did what Merk recommended and checked for level (worked great) as you can see it is off.

So to fix it I came up with a rig to twist it back into position.

The stupid part is I went way to far and to fast and did this.

Luckily I was able to twist it back for the most part with a hammer and pry bar I got it pretty close I did have to cut the parking brake bracket off and I decided to fill the heater control holes to give it more strength. Again pure luck but I think it came out pretty good in the end and the pan is straight finally!!!!

[El Piojo]

made some more progress. I think the fitment is pretty good. Next i"m on to the brakes and suspension