Body Panel Replacement - A First Timer's Journey...

[Whaanga]

I have replaced all of the cables in my 73 bus and purchased them from Bus Depot:

https://www.busdepot.com/catalogsearch/result/?q=heater+cable

They've worked well and I thought the prices were fair.

Good luck
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Late 1973 Bay w/a transplanted 914 Engine

[Goach2]

Thanks for the reminder, the link I sent earlier for GermanSupply turns out wasn't the right cable, however Scott did send me the correct one used. Checked a of Busdepot, none of those are the correct ones.
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1977 FI Westfalia

[Goach2]

Pulled the bus out and let the heater go full blast outside. It would run for 5 minutes or so, then the overheating 8A fuse would blow. Is this related to burning out any old crap? Or does something need adjusting?
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1977 FI Westfalia

[orwell84]

[Goach2]

Ok, I have been using the manual, I'll have to focus on the triage stuff. I didn't find it too easy to understand. This might have to wait, for some reason brake fluid was dripping from a rear wheel, which shouldn't happen since everything is brand new. Argh, one step forward, two steps back!
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1977 FI Westfalia

[orwell84]

[Goach2]

I'm just happy it works, next time I'll see if the over heating has anything to do with the fact that I had it turned all the way up.
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1977 FI Westfalia

[orwell84]

Check the temp regulation switch. Page 6 of the manual. The other thing is the flame switch. I think it turns off the spark/glow plug once the heater is firing.

[Goach2]

Well, getting the itch to cut something off again and have zero'd in on the dogleg. Here's the cancer:

I'm going to strip the whole thing down, but so far it looks solid in the rear, with a little bit of rust forming at the B pillar. The step area is another story. I have a complete inner panel and a cut outer:

My question is, do I need to buy a complete outer panel, or will the small step-only panels reach far enough. I am ok with a little fabrication, but I only have basic tools...

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1977 FI Westfalia

[Goach2]

So, got dimensions of the outer step piece and it's 6" high. I'm not under any illusions that it will be a straight up cut/weld, but who would attempt it with just the piece?

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1977 FI Westfalia

[orwell84]

You would probably have to make a bit at the top of the hockey stick. Don’t cut out more of the step than you have to. I have used the outer step panel part. Fit is ok. Try to avoid cutting the stamping on the curved portion of the arch. The klokker stamping dare vague.

[Goach2]

Thanks Orwell, I ordered the hockey stick, so I'm all in now 😉

Took a little paint off to see how high the rust runs, doesn't appear to be any surprises yet.

Next I have to figure out where to cut, keeping in mind that parts of the inner also need to be replaced.
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1977 FI Westfalia

[Goach2]

Some exploritory cutting, while trying no to cut too much without the replacement in hand. For the backing piece, does it make sense to drill out and separate the front edge of it, instead of a complete cut/weld patch?

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1977 FI Westfalia

[orwell84]

I have a whole Klokkerholm outer section if you would like it as well as entire klokkerholm arch for the other side. They have been kicking around for years. Yours for cost of shipping from northern NY.

[Goach2]

Thanks for the offer, I will know better once I start cutting the big bits off.
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1977 FI Westfalia

[orwell84]

No problem. It doesn’t look too bad. I have also replaced a complete arch. I found it easier to do spot repairs like you are doing. The driver’s side was worse so I replaced the whole thing.

[Chubber]

Just caught up with your work and it's looking good.

I'm also of the mind that the less metal you replace, the better. I usually used the big replacement panels to cut pieces out of to match the replaced bits of metal rather than just trace around the panel and cut the old metal to match. It is much harder to get those long straight welds in the open field to be flat than most people would want to admit.

I'm just a dude on the internet, but I cut the rusty hole back to clean metal, make a paper template of the new hole and cut the fresh metal to fit the hole.

You can see the thread in my footer for my stuff. I did it all at once, but it's the same as you go.

Pick the right place for a seam and buy a lot of grinding discs and nobody will know you aren't the world's best welder.

Forgot to mention: You can do an amazing amount of metal shaping with a plain hammer and some hardwood boards in your vise. Sand the wood edges to the right radius to match the original corners and you can't even tell where the weld seam is.
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Chubber
'71 Deluxe 7 Passenger Bus (Resto thread)
'72 Fastback
'74 Super Beetle Convertible (Sold)

[Goach2]

Thanks for the encouragement and tips Chubber.

Replacement panel will be here Friday, then I can look at where I want to make my cuts. I may have to cut more of the outer skin away to get the inner welded in. Also, I only have 10lbs of gas left, which means that I will start and then run out and have to wait until I can exchange my tank. Figures!
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1977 FI Westfalia

[Goach2]

Not very happy with this spot-welded seam on the outer skin step:

I'm assuming my best bet is going to be try and save as much of the original metal on the top of the step as possible...
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1977 FI Westfalia

[Goach2]

Looking at where to patch in the replacement panels.

For the inner, I'm thinking about drilling out the front spot-welded and starting the new panel there:

I'm also thinking about cutting the back vertical panel down the middle, right through the slotted hole in the back:

For the front panel, I think it may not be optimal to open up this sandwich that's in good shape:

Am I on the right track so far?
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1977 FI Westfalia