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Rear Defroster Glass
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pyrOman
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 3:06 pm    Post subject: Rear Defroster Glass Reply with quote

How do you test it? Confused

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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 3:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear Defroster Glass Reply with quote

Connect electrical leads to a DC power source and spray the glass with a fine mist of water. If the lines dry of water first, then it works.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 3:31 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear Defroster Glass Reply with quote

This is from late beetle but probably the same. Look down for Ashman40's reply, he is pretty good with elec.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=438144
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mandraks
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 5:56 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear Defroster Glass Reply with quote

they usually work unless the wire is interrupted somewhere. That can be "fixed" too.
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busdaddy
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 6:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear Defroster Glass Reply with quote

Really?, maybe in a desert climate, around here the conductive stuff has been corroded off from too many years of damp climate, they aren't like modern ones.

A Hanes or Chiltons manual for almost any vehicle from the 70's or 80's will have a section describing how to test and troubleshoot a defroster grid, sadly most VW heated windows from that era are so far gone it's not worth the time to attempt repairs.

Luckily a new one isn't much money at all: http://www.busdepot.com/j13431
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Clara Premium Member
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 7:16 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear Defroster Glass Reply with quote

You probably want a new one. I bought a new one for my 69 bug a few years ago. It works great. You ahead and test yours first though.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620123

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mandraks
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 7:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear Defroster Glass Reply with quote

busdaddy wrote:
Really?, maybe in a desert climate, around here the conductive stuff has been corroded off from too many years of damp climate, they aren't like modern ones.

...
Luckily a new one isn't much money at all: http://www.busdepot.com/j13431


for that price i would also get a new one. then again if i already had one that looks good i would give it a shot.
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PostPosted: Thu Nov 29, 2018 7:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear Defroster Glass Reply with quote

pyrOman wrote:
How do you test it? Confused

12 volts negative to one side positive to other side.
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LAGrunthaner
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2018 3:51 am    Post subject: Re: Rear Defroster Glass Reply with quote

Wow only $100. for a new one is pretty cool.

busdaddy wrote:
Really?, maybe in a desert climate, around here the conductive stuff has been corroded off from too many years of damp climate, they aren't like modern ones.

A Hanes or Chiltons manual for almost any vehicle from the 70's or 80's will have a section describing how to test and troubleshoot a defroster grid, sadly most VW heated windows from that era are so far gone it's not worth the time to attempt repairs.

Luckily a new one isn't much money at all: http://www.busdepot.com/j13431

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flemcadiddlehopper
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2018 7:31 am    Post subject: Re: Rear Defroster Glass Reply with quote

It can be tested with either an Ohmmeter or a simple low impedance test light. Each line can be tested separately by connecting power to one side and the test light to ground, then gently and carefully pushing the tip of the test light onto each line. The same process with the ohmmeter without the use of power, just testing for continuity. Which actually works better as the resistance of each line can be measured and possibly detect a fault before it fails.
The repair kits are pretty cheap and easy to use, just tape it off and paint it on.

Gordo.
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Bruce Amacker
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2018 7:55 am    Post subject: Re: Rear Defroster Glass Reply with quote

flemcadiddlehopper wrote:
Each line can be tested separately by connecting power to one side and the test light to ground, then gently and carefully pushing the tip of the test light onto each line. The same process with the ohmmeter without the use of power, just testing for continuity. Which actually works better as the resistance of each line can be measured and possibly detect a fault before it fails.


I don't agree, this goes against the basics of electrical theory. You'll be measuring the resistance of the entire grid, not one line (unless many/every line is broken).

The best way to test any electrical heating device is using amperage, but the "hook it up and spray water" procedure is quick, dirty, and works. I remember being taught in class to fog the glass by breathing heavy on it while connected. Same idea.
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hitest
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2018 10:21 am    Post subject: Re: Rear Defroster Glass Reply with quote

Ohms can be read very sensitively using Gordo's method- because they will read simply a stark difference on the lines that are broken in the absence of power. Ohm comparisons are the simplest way of dealing with conductivity testing on multiple, similar circuits. The guys who save money at swap meets are the guys with an ohmmeter in their pocket. Wink
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OB Bus
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PostPosted: Fri Nov 30, 2018 3:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear Defroster Glass Reply with quote

I had a glass like that until recently. The heat never worked. I have only met about 2 people who have a functioning Bus rear defogger. (Unless they got the new glass..)
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PostPosted: Sat Dec 01, 2018 10:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Rear Defroster Glass Reply with quote

Bruce Amacker wrote:
flemcadiddlehopper wrote:
Each line can be tested separately by connecting power to one side and the test light to ground, then gently and carefully pushing the tip of the test light onto each line. The same process with the ohmmeter without the use of power, just testing for continuity. Which actually works better as the resistance of each line can be measured and possibly detect a fault before it fails.


I don't agree, this goes against the basics of electrical theory. You'll be measuring the resistance of the entire grid, not one line (unless many/every line is broken).


I think you misunderstood the process. Each line is being tested in this method.
The water method does show that a line does not work, but it does not show where the break in the line is.
With my method, if you have a bad line you simply work the neg. test lead towards the positive end until power (or continuity) is restored. You just found where you need to repair the grid.

There are many ways to test a grid. This is what to do if you want to fix it.

Gordo.
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