Just picked up a Type4 which trans and carbs

[winddude]

I just picked up a type4 for decent price, that's complete minus intake. It's going to go in my buggy. Originally I was planning to build my dual port, it is in very rough shape, but looking at the cost vs a type4, the price per performance was better this route.

I can't decide which trans to use. Currently I have a type1 4 speed and do the flywheel modification, but someone local has a type2 trans for sale for a good price. Not sure which route to go.

Also I was thinking of going for a dual carb setup, but again someone local has a fuel injected setup for sale, which I'm considering, thoughts?

[slalombuggy]

If the t4 needs heads, there's $1000. And most of them need heads. The bottom ends are tough as nails but the cam gears like to shake loose. What's your hp goal? Are you building for offroad or street. Will you be abusing the transaxle? That's the only reason I would go to a bus trans. A t1 engine can be built far cheaper and a t1 will handle a lot of power if you treat it with respect.

brad

[Dale M.]

If you are referring to type 2 with redux boxes, DON"T... You do not need that gearing for a buggy even if you are going rock crawling...

Dale
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[winddude]

goal is autocross. So a fair bit of on and off the throttle.

Originally I was hoping to build the 1600 to around 100-120hp, but the engine that came with mine was pretty trashed. For the cost of this Type4, I figured I can run it stock for a season, while I decide what I want to do long term. It was cheaper than I would have paid for a rebuild kit for my 1600, and came with newish accessories.

[winddude]

[oprn]

The Bus gearbox is not a bolt in when used in place of a Beetle tranny, different mounting system. Yes it is stronger but also much lower geared which will take some tall rubber to do highway speeds without the engine buzzing like a mad hornet. A stock Bug tranny is more than adequate for a light street driven(not street raced)Buggy with a stock type 4 engine.

I have not heard of the cam gears coming loose but it may have happened. The bigger concern in my view is the cam itself. Pull some pushrod tubes and lifters and check out the cam! And yes Bus heads tend to be cracked.

[winddude]

[Dale M.]

I ran autocross with FG buggy... Best is built type I motor (2180- 120HP at wheels with chassis dyno) and good close ratio standard SA or IRS transaxle.... Since about 90% of time it is in second gear, I don't see the need to all the work to put bus transaxle into beetle chassis...

Dale
_________________
“Fear The Government That Wants To Take Your Guns" - Thomas Jefferson.

"Kellison Sand Piper Roadster" For Street & Show.
"Joe Pody Sandrover" Buggy with 2180 for Autocross (Sold)
============================================================
All suggestions and advice are purely my own opinion. You are free to ignore them if you wish ...

[BL3Manx]

Rebuilt Type 4 head with warranty

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=1794254

[oprn]

On mine the crack was beside the exhaust valve seat and went through into the exhaust port. When it was running it sounded like a very loose tappet. A sharp snap - snap kind of noise. I do believe they crack around the spark plug holes too. A compression test alerted me to which cylinder to look at.

I'm sure they crack in other places too. This problem seems to be heat related from long runs with heavy loads and high temps which will not be a problem in a Buggy.

For some reason these type 4 engines seem to have torque all out of proportion to their size compared to a stock type 1 engine. Normally the longer stroke on the type 1 should give it the advantage there but not so. Anyway you will really enjoy that torque coming out of the corners! It will give you an advantage in my view that would take double or more money to achieve with a hopped up type 1 engine even with buying new heads.

My engine was a stock 1700 Bus one, I just put fresh bearings, rings, new cam with lifters, rebuilt stock heads and used Webers into it for about $2500. It feels like double the power over the 1600 DP/Kadron engine that was in it especially on the hills.

[slalombuggy]

T4 heads dont crack most of the time, the valve seats fall out of them,or recess into tte head. B4 tou buy the engine pull the valve covers and look carefully at the adjusting screws. If one or more is backed out far more than the others it is probably because of this.


I wouldn't bother with the bus box for autocross. Too low of hearing and not needed. I autocrossed mu buggy for 18 years with a stock t1 box with 100hp and slicks and never needed a stronger gearbox. Like Dale I rarely got out of second.


If you're going to competitively autocross you'll also want to think about weight distribution which in a buggy is brutally biased towards the rear even with a type1 engine put another 30 lbs behind the rear wheels makes it even worse. You also want an engine that can rev up or down quickly, which will be easier to do with the lighter engine parts of a t1 engine

brad

[oprn]

A piece of crap! Don't spend another dime on it, send it to me for proper disposal!

[didget69]

[winddude]

[oprn]

I still have the stock carbs with manifolds and linkage. They need a good soaking and cleaning but should get it running good enough to see what you have there. Just pay the shipping.

[slalombuggy]

I'd put a set of 40s on it either Weber or EMPI, wouldn't even touch factory fuel injection any more.

brad

[Wolfgangdieter]

If the T4 came from a bus, it probably won't have the fittings for some of the sensors required to install the stock fuel injection. The bus came with dual Solex carbs (at least in '72). I wouldn't attempt to install an untested 40 year old FI system on an engine it didn't come from. I had a '72 914 1.7L with larger P&C so about 1.9L and install dual Weber carbs. I never got them running as smoothly as the stock FI. Dellortos are still out there. I always looked down on the center mount single carb but have no real experience with it.
_________________
CMC '57 Porsche Speedster Replica and Dolphin boat tailed full pan VW MOD-T Street Buggy

[oprn]

I have a set of Italian Weber 40 IDF 83s on mine and I am really happy with them. I doubt that FI would run any better. Only real issue is air cleaner clearance on my buggy.

[didget69]

[winddude]

low compression, looks like I'll be rebuilding the top end at least. Question is do I toss a better cam in while at it, and I'll probably go for the higher compression pistons.