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How to build a narrowed adjustable Bus beam (tutorial)
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Long-roofs
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PostPosted: Tue Sep 12, 2006 10:17 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Smaller slide hammer with 2 or 3 prong ends. Just be careful, don't be a meat-head....
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jeremyrockjock
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PostPosted: Wed Sep 13, 2006 2:21 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

I heavy peice of pipe, a length of threaded rod and some "Washers" made to fit the beam ID with the side shaved off so that they will slide to the inside of the bearing. Then slide the pipe just like a slide hammer and wala.

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kei
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 6:54 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hi, this is a very nice thread. I'm planning to narrow the front beam on my 1960 bus, but I have a couple questions.

At what point do you need a narrowed beam? Anytime the bus is lowered? Or is this more for custom wheels?

And what types of wheels is everyone using on their bus? Looks like most custom wheels like empi and such are 15 x 5.5.

And for the new side flanges, do you use the old ones for a pattern?
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jeremyrockjock
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PostPosted: Fri Dec 15, 2006 4:48 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

I do things different from how I used to. I free up the center torsion retainer by total removing it and hammering the dimples back out. That way I don't have to remove the steering knuckle. I just cut the tube half way through and the retainer falls out. I leave enough metal to tuck back under the adjuster when I weld them on.

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I cut the outer material off and weld 3/8" plate as the new side flange plates. Doing it this way the geometry of the beam is not changed.

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Also I use the 1/2-20tpi set screw that comes with the adjusters. I drill the center torsion retainer 180 degrees from the original 14mm hole and thread it for 1/2-20.
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I also use the original roller bearings instead of bushings. I have the machine the bearing fit though which is not easy. I have used a rotary file to cut the bearing fits. It take a while to get them to fit.

Other than that, I build beams the same way.
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jerupke
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PostPosted: Sun Dec 17, 2006 4:19 am    Post subject: geat topic Reply with quote

almost got mine finished.... great tutorial Jeremy!!!!
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Culito
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 26, 2006 4:49 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

So how much would you charge just to build me a beam if I send the old one to ya?
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jerupke
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 2:02 pm    Post subject: send it..... to me????? Reply with quote

Send it.... to me.......???? I live in Europe?!?!
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Dave24
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 3:50 pm    Post subject: Re: send it..... to me????? Reply with quote

jerupke wrote:
Send it.... to me.......???? I live in Europe?!?!
I think the question was for the teacher, not the student. Wink
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Culito
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 03, 2007 4:53 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

For the teacher, yes.

But I think since my truck is kind of a rare model, I'm going to buy new stuff and save the old in case someone (maybe me) wants to restore it at a later time.
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jerupke
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PostPosted: Mon Jan 08, 2007 4:23 pm    Post subject: Re: send it..... to me????? Reply with quote

Dave24 wrote:
jerupke wrote:
Send it.... to me.......???? I live in Europe?!?!
I think the question was for the teacher, not the student. Wink



ohhhh.. (thank God....) Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes Rolling Eyes
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kevinh94
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PostPosted: Thu Jul 30, 2009 11:44 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Hey guys why couldn't you leave your control arm on the torsions bars and slid it back through your newly narrowed adjustable beam and cut just the one side 4 inches in?

it would save any guess work all the bars are together you measure in 5 inches and wrap them together. Then make one clean cut of 4 inches make your indention for the grub screw and call it a day?

I never understood the reason of measuring both sides, though I haven't tried lowering any beam myself.

Thanks

I really like this thread heck all the lowering threads for that matter.

Kevin
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Geoslavetoo
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 8:03 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

kevinh94 wrote:
Hey guys why couldn't you leave your control arm on the torsions bars and slid it back through your newly narrowed adjustable beam and cut just the one side 4 inches in?

it would save any guess work all the bars are together you measure in 5 inches and wrap them together. Then make one clean cut of 4 inches make your indention for the grub screw and call it a day?
Kevin

Grub screw for the adjuster in the middle....think it all the way through Question Wink
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kevinh94
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 01, 2009 11:42 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

Geoslavetoo wrote:
kevinh94 wrote:
Hey guys why couldn't you leave your control arm on the torsions bars and slid it back through your newly narrowed adjustable beam and cut just the one side 4 inches in?

it would save any guess work all the bars are together you measure in 5 inches and wrap them together. Then make one clean cut of 4 inches make your indention for the grub screw and call it a day?
Kevin

Grub screw for the adjuster in the middle....think it all the way through Question Wink


Gotcha.

Na I usually don't. I guess I like to do things the hard way. Laughing

Thats how I roll. I always to it the hard way.

I may have found a good deal. But I am still talking to a guy about it. Its a 65 but like I said nothing is set in stone so its not mine yet. I need to learn on these things though.

On the cuts I saw a Saws-all in one of the pics. Is that how you all do it? I would have thought cutting straight would be CRITICAL with these beams. So buying or renting a Chop saw would be necessary.

I know when I have used a Saws-all I usually go crooked. I guess with practice that could be changed but a chop saw would take the guess work out of it all.

I have never done it but I think thats the route I would go.

Am I wrong. You guys that have done it know more than I so am I?

Kevin
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Goshen
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 05, 2012 11:24 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

What happens to the dimples in the middle of the beam ?
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jeremyrockjock
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 5:44 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

You have to hammer them outward to allow the leave retainer to rotate.
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Goshen
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 10:25 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeremyrockjock wrote:
You have to hammer them outward to allow the leave retainer to rotate.


I believe that there are three dimples on the center of the beam... I am trying to visualize how I would hammer them outward.. how would i access them to hammer them outward ?

Is there a cutout that I have to make ?
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tanhis
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PostPosted: Fri Aug 10, 2012 2:45 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Drill them out.
To hammer them out needs so much force or heat that you have a good chance to bend the beam in the process.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 05, 2013 10:46 pm    Post subject: Reply with quote

Has anyone calculated how much drop you get for a specified amount of turn of the adjusters? I ask because I'm considering a cut and turn of my beam instead of using the adjusters. As its a one shot deal I'd like to find some actual data from those who have done it before. I realize its probably not a constant figure as the amount of drop must be affected by wear on the leaves, but a ball park figure would be nice. I'm hoping to drop 3-4 inches by cutting and turning and then re-index the rear to match.

Thanks!
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Busbodger
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 11:23 am    Post subject: Please put adjusters in Reply with quote

...now I don't know you are anything but for the sake of the next owner - put adjusters in. They might not want it 3-4" lowered all the time. Should help your resale value too in case you ever want to sell it.
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slow36hp
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 06, 2013 11:40 am    Post subject: Reply with quote

jeffreyned wrote:
Has anyone calculated how much drop you get for a specified amount of turn of the adjusters? I ask because I'm considering a cut and turn of my beam instead of using the adjusters. As its a one shot deal I'd like to find some actual data from those who have done it before. I realize its probably not a constant figure as the amount of drop must be affected by wear on the leaves, but a ball park figure would be nice. I'm hoping to drop 3-4 inches by cutting and turning and then re-index the rear to match.

Thanks!
pretty easy to build a model to calculate
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