Is this acceptable exhaust port heat for a 1776?

[fifthcenturycheese]

I recently built a 1776 with dual Kadrons and am running a tri-mil header with single quiet pack. I am also using a German 009, compression is about 8:1. Compression check showed 1 and 4 at 145ps1, 2 and 3 at 135 psi. I have 135 main jets and upped the idle jets to 60's from 55's. I am operating the engine outside the car on a test stand. About 400 miles on new engine so far. Carbs are in sync. Dwell is 52degrees. Timing 33 all in advanced. Engel 110. Counterbalanced crank. Fuel pressure is 1.5psi

My question: Is it acceptable to be reading 330 to 350 degrees at the header elbow coming from #4 exhaust port? #1 is reading around 230-250+, #2 and
#3 are reading around 110 to 120 degrees where I could shoot them with the heat gun before the heater box... ??? I would like to get this thing dialed in before it goes back in. No pops and it seems to have good response to throttle.

Thanks for reading this, Mike.

[Max Welton]

I can't attach any meaning to exhaust temps taken under no load.

Max
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[Type 5 Joe]

I think you'll get UN-equal temp readings at idle...

Its just the nature of Kadrons to idle better on 2 cylinders.

I would check temps at part, and full throttle blasts. Not easy.
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[fifthcenturycheese]

Well, let's put it this way.... The rear apron used to reach 260 deg. when idling and trying to initially get everything dialed in. The under load test will come when I determine it won't burn the paint off the apron when it is idling! Like I said, engine has been in for 400 miles, cruises nicely at 70+, just asking some basic questions to get it dialed in. Type 5 Joe, I will give that a try....

[Max Welton]

Check also timing at idle. Excessive temps under the apron at idle sometimes means not enough advance at idle.

Max
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[modok]

I think you have the cylinder numbers slightly mixed up.
Cylinders 2 and 4 will run stronger at idle, (the rearmost cylinders)

the NEW header overall will emit more heat than normal until the insides of the pipes are well coated in carbon, and this may take up to a thousand miles for the carbon to build up.

[Type 5 Joe]

Well let us know your findings anyway.

Looks like a nice build. I know good when I see it.
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[Slow 1200]

Are you running with the heater boxers disconnected? They need air flowing through

In any case idle readings with kadrons are meaningless

[fifthcenturycheese]

Yes, going to run stock heater boxes connected. Will get temp readings at partial and full throttle soon.

[74 Thing]

Nice looking engine. Get that thing installed and use the AFR meter to do assist with fine tuning the jets when under load.

[nsracing]

200 - 300 degrees F on the exhausts immediately after the heads? If so, those are DEAD cylinders, barely firing. Are you reading the pipe heat or exhaust gas heat?

Did you take compression on the cylinders? Are the wires good? Maybe your carbs are dirty - idle or main jets partially plugged.

Should be 1300 deg or more on those exhausts if EGT temps.

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[Type 5 Joe]

Kadrons have cold exhaust temps on some primaries at idle.

Its just their nature...

A set of Dellortos DRLA's or weber IDF's would behave completely different at idle.

Either way, reading need to be made at mid range and higher throttle positions with that set-up.
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[fifthcenturycheese]

Working 12 hour days right now. Will take some readings tomorrow and post findings. Appreciate all input so far....
Thanks, Mike

[andk5591]

Carbs are in synch how? I use a home made manometer that I connect to the manifold ports. Works better than snail gauges and such. I suspect that is part of your issue. Also, I have not worked with your specific linkage. I like the simpler bell crank style (Scat, CSP) that does not have as much slop as hex bars. Assuming that you have to use the idle stops to synch at idle and then once off the stops, the synch can fluctuate a bit. Also, don't know if you are running balance tubes or not. Supposed to help smooth things out, but I don't use it since my synch is really good.

As mentioned, dual singles kind of idle on one cylinder per side. Bring the idle speed up to around 1500 and try it again. (not saying leave it like that, just do it to test. I suspect the temps will be more uniform.
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[VW_Jimbo]

Also, you need to get the rear lower cylinder tins in place that go next to the exhaust ports or you will never pinpoint the temperature. Plus it is going to be all wonky till everything gets warmed up.

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