busdaddy
Samba Member
Joined: February 12, 2004
Posts: 51153
Location: Surrey B.C. Canada, but thinking of Ukraine
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 Posted: Wed Jan 08, 2020 5:59 pm Post subject: Re: DIY: How To Remove an Early Bay Engine |
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You'll need a new fat red wire to go from the D+ to the battery + or starter post, and you'll have to extend the blue wire that connected to the regulator so it'll reach the small post on the alternator.
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NorCalWeekender
Samba Member
Joined: April 13, 2000
Posts: 6531
Location: East Bay, CA
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| Posted: Wed Jan 08, 2020 6:02 pm Post subject: Re: DIY: How To Remove an Early Bay Engine |
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| busdaddy wrote: |
| You'll need a new fat red wire to go from the D+ to the battery + or starter post, and you'll have to extend the blue wire that connected to the regulator so it'll reach the small post on the alternator. |
Okay, cool. That's easy enough. Thank you!
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9th Owner of a 1971 Tintop Westy
"Eventually, we sold to a guy for $500 who towed it away to live in it in his parents' driveway. We didn't think it would ever avoid the junk heap on that day." -The 3rd Owner, 1995 |
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nebe
Samba Member
Joined: October 08, 2007
Posts: 450
Location: Rhode Island
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| Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2020 12:24 pm Post subject: Re: DIY: How To Remove an Early Bay Engine |
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| Stuartzickefoose wrote: |
Ratwell has a lovely late bay how to on pulling the engine (type 4) but I haven't seen a specific how to on a early bay. so, I figured it was due time. I am not an expert, I just pretend to be one here on the internets. This is not THE only way, but it is ONE way to get the engine out. this is a 1971 factory spec dual port doghouse style engine.
First step, tools.
pictured are two 17mm wrenches (One a ratchet style, recommended)
one 8mm wrench
a 13mm socket
a 17mm socket
and a driver of some sort (impact gun, ratchet etc)
and a flat head and a phillips screw drivers.
not pictured is a floor jack, or an ATV or motorcycle jack.
first step, remove your bumper. this will require taking out the 4 lower bolts off the bottom of the brackets. they should be 17mm.
then take out the two 13mm bolts on the rear of the apron (rear means REAR OF VEHICLE) and the phillips screws along the top edge inside the engine bay. theres a few....
if you have not already, go ahead and remove your air cleaner:
next, after you have removed the positive battery cable from the post on the battery, you can pull the generator wiring off. three small wires, each with a different connector. a ring, a spade, and a slot type so you cant hook them up wrong very easily (though it can be done!)
don't loose this itty bitty guy:
the fuse holder seen here can be unplugged next, that's your backup or reverse lights:
This is the oil pressure sending unit, which lights up the warning light on the dash when your oil pressure is to low, or if the sender fails 
this is a 12v wire to power the idle cutoff solenoid, the choke, and something else I'm forgetting (someone want to chime in? I took these pics over a month ago  ) and plugs into the positive side of the coil (the 15 terminal) it is key switched power which means when the key is on, it should have full battery voltage (12v or so)
next, your small vacuum lines off the carburetor and the altitude adjuster off to the left. don't forget the brake booster!
(brake booster connection under the carb)
moving along to actually turning a wrench again...this is our drivers side FRONT of the fan shroud, see that big bulge in the way? we will have to loosen that nut from under the car later...
as for the passenger side, we have a few things going on here...
seen in blue is the bolt end that will be removed from the bottom of the car later, leave it alone for now.
the yellow is the nut we will use the 17mm ratchet wrench on to remove it. that's also the top bolt for the starter.
the two in red are the engine case. DO NOT UNDO THESE.
the green is your accelerator cable tube. undo that with an 8mm wrench at the barrel clamp on the carb:
if you forget, when you go to pull the engine apart, this is what happens:
the arm gets yanked all the way down and you test the tinsel strength of the accelerator cable 
go ahead and remove the fuel line from the inlet to the fuel pump as well, the line will wrap around the drivers side of the fan shroud.
I like to pinch the line in a bend to keep fuel in. bending the line in a 180* bend and snugly zip tieing it together usually will keep the fuel from flowing.
here I just used the bodys clamp to hold it for a bit.
move on to the lower part of the engine, undo the lower two 17mm bolts...
then that upper bolt that we left for later:
and finally, the two heater cables need to be unbolted...8mm here:
while your heater cables are being removed, go ahead and yank the accordion tubes out of the way, you can fully remove them, or just slide one end off the engines heater flaps.
you will need to support the transmission with something, two jack stands work well under the axles....
later on, a tie strap will hold the transmission up well, whilst allowing you to roll the bus around the yard if needed.
and finally, slide the jack under the engine, locating it here, then lightly lift until the jack just starts to lift the engine up.
then remove the two engine mounts seen here, 17mm bolts
with the transmission set firmly on the jack stands, and the engine on the jack, slide firmly back towards the rear of the vehicle, and you should get this result:
be sure to replace the engine seal while your engine is out!
and always good to eyeball your fuel tanks and links if you have never done so...:
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Hey man. Thanks for posting this little tutorial. Going at a leisurely pace, I dropped my engine this morning in about an hour and a half. Then I removed my sick fuel tank. I don’t foresee any serious hurtles as I put it all back together |
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