Step by step: How to reverse the rotation of a 1.8T (06A block)

[xoo00oox]

NOTE to MODERATORS: Please do not remove place-holder posts below. Thank you!

I've had many many many people asking me questions over the past years on different things regarding how to reverse these engines so they can be used in the VW vans and buses along with the 5 speed transmissions from the Audi and B5 Passats. I decided to just go ahead and post all the changes needed to be made in order to do it as I assemble this engine for a customers van.

This is using what is commonly referred to as the 06A block engine or the later 1.8t. I am only going to show the changes needing to be made, this is not a step by step engine rebuild thread. Any of these 1.8t engines can be used to do this but I suggest starting with a Passat or Audi A4 donor car because it is already designed to be put inline in the body rather than transverse like they were in the Mk4 cars. This way you only need to make a simple engine mount bar and use the factory engine mounts and brackets from the Passat.


I'm saving a few posts here to keep all the info on the front page.


Andrew-

[xoo00oox]

The first step you want to do is find a good engine. Don't be concerned of a high mileage one, even if it has 250K miles, I've taken lots of these apart with well over 200k and they usually look no different than if they have 50k. Don't be afraid of one that has had a timing belt broken, they typicall just will bend the valves with no other damage to the head or engine, you just need to have new valves put in. Totally disassemble the engine and get everything clean and send the head out to have new valve seals put in and valves too if they are needed. I used to clean everything myself but found it was quicker, easier, and actually cheaper to drop the parts off at my local NAPA and have them put it in their tank. They charge me about $100.

The first thing needed to be changed is the crank position toner ring. You'll need to rotate it 176° clockwise as you look at the heads of the bolts.

I sprayed a light coat of paint on this one to make it more easy to see. This is the stock position.....

and with it in the new position.....

and after the new holes are put in and it's bolted back on the crank it should look like this....

The head of one screw should be just about touching the notch in the ring...

[xoo00oox]

How to correct the oil pump........


I use the stock oil pump, it is a chain driven pump with a spring loaded tensioner running off the crankshaft. This is the stock setup....

It took me literally years to come up with a way to make this pump work. I was determined to use the stock pump and not just get a custom built one.

All you need to do it is use a TDi timing belt idler (#058109244) and come up with a bracket like this.....

Then bolt things up like this......

put the sproket and the idler on....

and then the chain....

and surprisingly it all fits inside the oil pan (#06B103601cd)

The chain is no longer srping tensioned, it seems to do fine to just manually adjust it by using the slotted hole for the idler. The idler needs to be made a little thinner in width on a lathe to allow clearance.

[xoo00oox]

how to correct the pistons.......



The piston pin is offset, in stock form the arrow stamped on them is supposed to point to the pulley side of the engine. We need to put them in backwards.
There is a notch cut out of the skirt for clearance of the piston squirter, we need to put that same notch on the other side of the piston. There is also a relief in the top of the piston for clearance of the middle intake valve, we need to put one of those on the other side too.

One other thing that needs to be addressed is the camshaft position sensor toner ring. This is what it looks like in stock form....

what we need to do is start with one of these.......

and make a mirror image of the stock one. Just hold them together and mark where you need to cut out the slots.

Then cut them out and it should look like this...

.




When the engine is at top dead center #1, this is where you should position the ring to the cam and tighten it down.

[xoo00oox]

how to correct the cam timing........


Obviously the cam timing will need some attention. You will need a cam chain tensioner that is intended for the chain to run the opposite direction. Lucky VW has provided us with that, the one from the left cylinder head on the 2.8 and 2.7t V6 engines is a direct fit, part number 078109087F.


here is how you will set the cams up for cylinder #1 at TDC.......



exhaust cam like this...

intake cam like this.........

and both cams should look like this......

[xoo00oox]

how to correct the water pump and timing belt....


We are going to need to spin the coolant pump in the proper direction. Here is the stock set-up..

you can use the stock timing belt, tensioner roller, and tensioner piston but you'll need to add two more idlers, use the part number 038109244Q from a ALH tdi. You'll need to drill a hole into the block and tap threads (8mm) into it like this.....

and screw a stud into it like this..

then use a 8mm/10mm stud part number N0146341 and screw it in the 10mm hole directly above the water pump.

bolt those new idlers on the new studs and then route the timing belt like this...

*we are using the stock PASSAT tensioner roller and piston here, they are slightly different than the ones used on the MK4 cars.

[xoo00oox]

how to correct the serpentine belt routing for the alternator, power steering, and AC.....



I have found it best to use the accessory bracket from the MK4 cars because it is much more compact and uses only one serpentine belt rather than multiple belts and having a radiator fan mount like the passat and A4 have. The part number to of the bracket is 06A903143P, it is used on all the gas MK4 4cylinder cars. It uses a spring loaded belt tensioner part number 06A903315E.

Normally the belts are routed like this......

The alternator will work perfectly fine running backwards but we need to correct the direction of the PS pump and AC compressor. To do that, I use an Idler from a 3.0 V6 Audi part number 06C109244C and a 2" long, 1.5" dia spacer and a 10x1.5x85mm socket head bolt and fasten it into the threaded hole directly above and to the left side of the crank pulley. Then use a serpentine belt from a 12valve VR6 part number 7DPK1360. You'll need to cut one rib off the belt to make it a 6DPK1360 (you can just buy a 6DPK1360 but the 7 is much easier to find and it only takes a minute to run a utility blad down one rib)

you will need to route the belt like this.....

this way all the accessories are spinning at the correct speed and direction.

[xoo00oox]

how to correct the wire harness...


The wire harness will only need two very simple modifications. The wire that triggers the #2 and #3 coils and injectors need to be swapped around.

this is the only electrical modification you'll need to do. The ECM does not need any special tunes, it does not know the difference.

[xoo00oox]

how to correct the starter......


The stater is pretty easy to do, you basically just need to swap the aluminum mounting housing from one starter to another. You will need the housing from the stock 1.8t Passat/Audi A4 starter, manual and automatic use the same starter part number SR0497. You will need the motor from a MK3 VW with an ABA 2.0 number SR0402.


here's the two starters...

you need to take this ring and collar off and get rid of them..

Here is what it looks like when you're done...

You will need to space it away from the flywheel .200", just use two washers as a spacer on each mounting bolt.

[xoo00oox]

Thanks Kamz for getting this straightened out for me. We are now free to comment here, I should have enough spots reserved to keep the info on the front page.


SEALS


The two cam seals should be replaced with ones that are not directional, use part number 068103085A seals.

The front (pulley end) main seal should be replaced with a non directional one as well, use SKF part number 13941.

I was not able to find a non directional one in the correct size for the rear (flywheel end) main seal but if you switch it from the stock type to the older style seal with the spring in it, it does a good job. To do this, use the seal flange from the older inline 4cy VW engines, part number 0555103173B, and seal number 026103051A.

[Stuartzickefoose]

Mad props for opening up all the info when you didn’t have to. You did tons of hard work to get the setup working and your not even gonna hoard the secrets to yourself. Your the best man! 1.8t for me someday will be coming from you or designed by you somehow. Love it! Thanks!

Great work!
_________________
Stuart Zickefoose

2011 Jetta Sportwagen TDi 6 speed manual

206-841-7324
[email protected]

[dobryan]

Agreed. Massive props to you.
_________________
Dave O
'87 Westy w/ 2002 Subaru EJ25 and Peloquin TBD

"To travel hopefully is a better thing than to arrive." Robert Louis Stevenson

MD>Canada>AK>WA>OR>CA>AZ>UT>WY>SD
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=620646

Building a bus for travel in Europe (euroBus)
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=695371

The Western Syncro build
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=746794

[xoo00oox]

Thanks Stuart and Dave. I have no desire to market any part of this, Why not share it. I'm sure if others contribute to this there could be some improvements made. The original thread is very hard for someone to follow with the vast number of pages and there are a couple inaccuracies in it. This one with all the info up front should be much easier for a guy or gal building their own engine. I got a chance to drive that Bay bus we built with the 1.8t/5speed a couple weeks ago. It's a blast! And real heat!

[Stuartzickefoose]

[Vanagon Nut]

This is awesome. I can really appreciate how long it would take to figure & proof things, make corrections etc. then post salient details.

Thanks Andrew.

That's a really nice seasonal gift!

Neil.
_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[syncrodoka]

Wow, thanks for sharing this information for the benefit of others!

[tristessa]

[levi]

After several years of driving one of Andrews creations, I've got to say I really like it.
And Andrew has been the best to deal with, seriously.
_________________
One of these days I'm gonna settle down,
but till I do I won't be hangin round.
Going down that long lonesome highway,
gonna see life my way

https://youtu.be/cSrL0BXsO40

[Stuartzickefoose]

[[email protected]]

CRAZY. Props. You are the man!