1600 SP engine. What to build?

[67rustavenger]

So I have had this 1600 SP sitting in the garage for the last couple of years.

It's a little grungy and has some minor oil leaks. But otherwise, it ran pretty well the last time that I had it in the roached out car that it came out of.

Being kinda bored. I tore it down. I found that the engine was in pretty good shape. No I haven't measured things out yet. I will need to replace the P&C's. I suspect the rings are shot. Based on the oily wetness of the piston tops and combustion chambers.

The camshaft (stock riveted) and crankshaft (stock non CW) appear to be in good shape as well. There is no scoring on any of the journals.
One of the cam followers had some scoring marks on it.

The only issues that I found on the tear down. Was at one point, the #2 rod let go and dinged the case at the top and at cylinder spigot. All I can figure out is that the rod failed on a bench test. As the damage was very minimal.

And some of the valve stem tips were gouged by the adjusters.

So a new set of heads appears to be in the works. Cheaper than rebuilding the ones that came with the engine.

This engine is an AH case with 8mm head studs. So I have the option of switching to DP heads. If I so desire.

I really don't want to spend another 6K on a large displacement engine.
Also I think it would be a little fun to try something smaller/peppier/different.

Recently, I bought a couple of books from the classifieds.
TurboMainia by Bob Tomlinson. And Maximum Boost by Corky Bell.
These books should help me build a peppier engine.

The idea of the turbo build. Would be to get all the goodies under the deck lid and not modify the car body in any way.

Admittedly I am likely way over my head on a build like this. But the turbo crowd has been crowing about how inexpensive it is to build.
So I want to give it a shot, so to speak!

Advice from the boosted engine builders will be greatly appreciated.
Actually, advice from any engine builder is always welcome.

I'm not sure where to start on displacement. 1679, 1776...IDK. Or just stick with the 1600 and go from there with the build.

So I guess the first questions are. If I select a T3/T4 hybrid turbo. Would it be to my advantage to get one with an internal waste gate?
Or should I be looking at a non internally waste gated turbo?

I have, what seems like 12 sets of dual carbs of different sizes and one H30/31 carb on hand.
I need to figure out what I want to run with a turbo engine. My build preference is blow thru. It's a little more difficult to setup. But will likely help in keeping everything under the deck lid.

This will be a slow adventure into unknown territory.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Rome]

Are any of the 12 dual carb sets suitable for a single-port engine; such as single throats and matching intake manifolds?

As to buying new SP heads rather than rebuilding yours, my opinion is to work with what you have. If the exhaust studs are not broken, there are no cracks between the valves and the spark plug holes; then I personally would pursue installing new guides and valves. Even a mild porting job which a new head would not have off the shelf.

I have accumulated 3 solid SP engine cases and good pairs of heads for parts over the last 13 years- each either for free, or under $50. I've had one case (H5) decked in prep for 88mm slip-in cylinders; the other 2 for 90.5 cylinders. Each pair of the heads bored for 90.5's. That will give me the option of using thick-wall 88's, std 90.5 or even thin-wall 92's on the two cases bored for 90.5.

No turbo for me, but I do remember the original HotVWs article from about 1970 using a '70 SP 1600 for the bolt-on Rajay kit.

[Krochus]

When you are new at first glance a draw through setup seems like it would be easier to setup and tune over blow through.

But after you’ve done both you realize that setting up and most importantly getting the drivability out of a blow through system is way way easier.

Take my advice don’t use dual carbs. With positive manifold pressure they’re a completely unnecessary complication. I’m blowing through a 30 pict 3 in a 1600 single port and at 11 psi in top gear a stock clutch will NOT hold the crazy torque you can make even in a 1400lb rail. I warn you though once you boost a Volkswagen you will forever be jaded against the complete waste of money and energy that is trying to get power out of a naturally aspirated Volkswagen

Small turbo, single carb, boost reference mechanical pump, a good ignition that’s not dependent on a blue coil and a wideband.
_________________
1970 Turbo Baja Bug Turbaja 2165 t3/t4 Speeduino sequential EFI LS3 coil on plug ignition

1965 Chevy c30, Microsquirt turbo aluminum 5.3/nv4500

[Bugsy61]

If you stay at stock displacement, I suggest you stay with a T3 rather than a hybrid. The extra compressor capacity is not needed, and the extra mass will be harder to spool up. Internal waste gate is easier, and fine up to 14 or 15 psi. Most have an adjustable rod, and you can always add an external spring. Beyond that, you should probably go external waste gate. Carb would depend on how big you want to go with the camshaft.

[clonebug]

A T3/T4 is WAY too big for a 1600......Unless you plan on 300-350 hp out of it....

The 88mm P/C's are a nice thick barrel and will hold up to boost very well I have found.

Detonation will be the biggest issue. If you can manage that you will be in good shape.
_________________

[FullFender]

[modok]

Dual scroll from OE subarus easy to get now, very tempting.
I would make it a dual port. No real advantage to keeping it SP

[Krochus]

[Howard 111]

Turbo is the way to go. I have a 2L with a turbo and FI. I'm 65, been driving VWs and hot cars my whole life, and my current Ghia scares me it's so quick, and fast.

Build now, what you will be looking for eventually, a fast VW.
_________________
1973 Karmann Ghia
Turbocharged, Fuel Injected
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=531270

[67rustavenger]

So after an exhaustive search of the STF turbo gallery today. I still have not found the exhaust setup I wish to use/build.

The GT15 turbo has a 3 bolt exhaust flange. And no one makes a marketable header to adapt the GT15 to. At least that I have yet to find.

I suck at fabricating shit. And have never tackled an exhaust system. I guess it's time to learn how to tig weld.

I really would like to retain the heater boxes (AJ builds a kit like this) on this build. So an 1 3/8" header will have to be sacrificed for the build.

As stated in the opening of this thread. The idea is to get the turbo below the engine tin (out if the engine compartment) to keep the air cooling rather predictable. Also not modify the body of the car in any way.

Most of the setups I have seen today have the turbo near the top of the engine. And they are hideous bodged together systems. Not all but some were. Also most of the engines viewed, were monster engines that likely couldn't make it across the city. They are meant for a quick trip down the strip!
That's not what I want for an end result.

My ideal setup would have the air cleaner in the cool side of the engine compartment and a single boost pipe to the carb/s. <<< Undecided.

More research is needed.

Thank you for the initial responses. I'll be leaning on ya'll a bit in this adventure.

Have a Merry Christmas!
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[Krochus]

Actually the GT15 shares the same flange as the EMPI 3 bolt!

I used one to make my turbo extension piece
_________________
1970 Turbo Baja Bug Turbaja 2165 t3/t4 Speeduino sequential EFI LS3 coil on plug ignition

1965 Chevy c30, Microsquirt turbo aluminum 5.3/nv4500

[67rustavenger]

[Krochus]

There’s a couple of gt15 AR ratios out there amongst EBay turbskies. I used the .42 which is the larger of the two.
_________________
1970 Turbo Baja Bug Turbaja 2165 t3/t4 Speeduino sequential EFI LS3 coil on plug ignition

1965 Chevy c30, Microsquirt turbo aluminum 5.3/nv4500

[67rustavenger]

I still haven't bought a turbo for this build. I have searched Ebay and there are many choices available.

I almost regret tearing this engine down as everything measures out well. Whoever built it did a respectable job.

Have mocked up the case (empty), cylinders and heads.

I went to Avery's Aircooled last Saturday morning and bought some junk headers. I'll attempt to build an exhaust that suits my needs.
One of the headers was installed on the engine just to get a look at how things can be layed out.

I had an idea that I could run the exhaust from the collector flange with a 180° bend back to the area where I want the turbo to be mounted.
I know Cb makes a header that places the turbo on the left side of the engine below the tins. But I want to use 1 3/8" tubing from the header to the turbo.

Anybody tried the 180° bend back under the tins for a turbo hook up? Or am I way off target on this idea?

Thanks for your input.
_________________
I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!