Sliding door repair kit ??

[malcolm2]

I took the sliding door off today. I never have really moved it much. It just does not want to move very easily. Is there a all encompassing repair kit somewhere?

OK Ratwell has a nice HT on the sliding door. Looks like I only really have 3 wheels on the 3 touch points of the door.
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My Toys: '75 Porsche 914, '92 Ski Nautique and now a 1972 VW Transporter Deluxe (punch list fixing)

[SGKent]

usually you can clean up all the parts and tracks. Then replace the rear plastic slide. That combination is the most you can do unless the lower track is rusted thru in which case body work is involved. If you plan on replacing the sliding door seal, now is the time. Make sure you get the right seal, some are sold for Brazilian bays and they fit really poorly.

Clean and lube all mechanisms, and rollers
Clean out lower track under the door area. Sand any rusted areas, prime and paint.
Clean rear track and lubricate
Replace rear plastic slide.
reinstall door and test mechanisms for fit
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[malcolm2]

[busdaddy]

Here's a couple more tutorials you may find helpful:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=446743
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=446358
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[SGKent]

[aeromech]

In my experience all the rollers can just be cleaned and lubed to work except the one with the replaceable inner bearing. That’s the one that lives near the nylon block. If that bearing is bad but the outer roller part is good, you can remove a snap ring and just replace the inner bearing. If you need one, PM me and I’ll send one to you. I have about 9in my drawer. They were super cheap on eBay.
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[malcolm2]

[malcolm2]

Wonder about these hooks. They really don't want to move. I understand that they hold the door open. Like I mentioned, I have not really moved the door since March. But IIRC, it did hold. Is this spring loaded hook supposed to easily move?

What does the one under this one do?

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My Toys: '75 Porsche 914, '92 Ski Nautique and now a 1972 VW Transporter Deluxe (punch list fixing)

[airschooled]

Yes, the seal is a mandatory part of a bearing. I actually have one extra seal, for the horizontal roller if you'd like it for the cost of postage.

Both arms in your picture should be easy to move, under the right conditions. The top arm in your photo is the arm that prevents the door from colliding with the body as you yank it to close the door; it locks the hinge 90° from the car, and doesn't release until the rear roller carriage hits the front stopper bolted to the car. The lower locking lever does the opposite; it holds the carriage to the front of the bus when you unlatch the door so the door can swing wide and clear of the body before the carriage starts to move.

Robbie
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[scrivyscriv]

I don't think I would call that seal or shield "mandatory," I mean what does mandatory even mean here? The seal holds lubricant in, or more importantly keeps contamination out.. so it is for longevity of the bearing itself.
Don't smear grease all over the track like ratwell shows. It is unhelpful.. the rollers don't slide along the track; they are supposed to turn on their bearings. They need to be taken apart and lubed.
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[malcolm2]

All the shots and part #s i found for the lower wheels show different wheels. One is a solid wheel with a U on in facing up. the other is the sealed bearing one.

Now that mine are off, I am not sure which one faces up and which one faces out? I probably go ahead and replace both with what looks to be the proper ones. All though after soaking in Sili-Kroil all night, they both spin nicely.
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My Toys: '75 Porsche 914, '92 Ski Nautique and now a 1972 VW Transporter Deluxe (punch list fixing)

[airschooled]

By mandatory, I meant that contamination inside the bearings can lead to failure of the ball cages, which can result in the rollers binding and chewing up the guide tracks. Once the circuits fail and the rollers pop off, the door comes crashing down to the pavement when you pop it open. I’ve seen it twice this year; both were “restored” cars. One roller was full of blast media, the other was full of dirt.

I have found that early early bays have two roller bearings, somewhere in the seventies VW made he horizontal bearing a solid metal roller like the upper roller. Unlubricated I often see those with a hole worn in the top. Note that solid rollers (upper and lower, if late style) must have the felt washer under the rollers that should be oiled at every oil change service.

Robbie
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[malcolm2]

[SGKent]

my 1977 has a steel cap roller that sits on a pin and rides in the upper track. The pin should be lubricated and a small amount of a dry lubricant used in the track. The pin is on a bracket that can be adjusted.

The lower bracket has two rollers on it. It is shimmed to adjust the door. The track attracts road sand at times and needs to be cleaned once a year or so.

The rear assembly has a roller and a a nylon block on it. I carefully clean the track out when washing the car and put a little lubricant on it each time after it is cleaned. Otherwise the lubricant used picks up dirt and becomes an abrasive. I've tried it dry but it works better with a little paraffin wax or dry lubricant on it.
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[malcolm2]

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211843419

this would be a new one.... part # 211 843 419. no seal for the balls. I don't see a cap on their site.

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My Toys: '75 Porsche 914, '92 Ski Nautique and now a 1972 VW Transporter Deluxe (punch list fixing)

[SGKent]