First Engine Drop and Partial Teardown

[SevenOaks]

‘69 single cab 1500 H case.
Engine was running great and the only reason to do this is the oil leaks and it is filthy dirty. I finally read enough here, Wilson’s book and watched enough videos to get brave enough to do it.

The drop went smooth but I’ve had a couple of minor issues tearing down. Two of the tin screws lost their heads leaving the threads behind in one of the heads but I was able to drill them out and retap the threads (another first for me). The muffler was rusted solid onto both of the heater boxes. PB Blaster, hammers, prying, propane torch and begging all had no effect. I will probably regret it but it took a saws-all to get it removed. The only other issue I’m having is I can’t get the crank pulley off. I’ve ordered the crank pulley puller tool so we’ll see how that does when it arrives. My two-jaw puller just wants to bend the pulley.

I knew the push rod tubes were leaking but I assumed the main seal and oil cooler seals were most likely participating as well. However, when I removed the fan shroud I did not find the oil I expected under the cooler. Same for main seal. I pulled the flywheel and no leaking oil. Should I replace the seals anyway? I have new push rod tubes and seals.

This is the 3-4 head and cylinders.

Here’s the 1-2.

Any suggestions on what to do here before reassembly?
_________________
David
1974 9-passenger bus
1969 Single cab
1966 Beetle

[busdaddy]

Did you happen to do a compression test or put an oil pressure gauge on it before deconstruction?

The heads look like they have some time on them, now's the time to have them rehabbed, the cylinders and pistons may be salvageable, a close inspection and measuring after cleaning will tell us more.

Number everything now, use a number stamp or something that will still show after cleaning. If you remove the pistons heat them with a propane torch first so the wrist pins push out, no sideways hammering (damages rod bearings).

Looks like you have some parts washing and close up photography in your future.
_________________
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[samthemanvw]

If you have the seals just replace them.

Also there is a lot of blow by on your heads, you might need to do the magic marker trick to seat the heads and use some rubbing compound (rotate them to grind them into place) to get them to mate nicely.

Mustie1 on youtube has some great videos on how to do this.

Looks like a fun project!

[SevenOaks]

[SevenOaks]

[samthemanvw]

Mustie1's videos are amazing, about 27 min into this video is what you are looking for:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AoFYz10_gIQ

Yes you should have done a compression test before taking the heads off, to see if your work actually improves anything. Re-torquing the heads is always a good idea while you have the tin off because the bottom bolts are hard to access. (be sure to do it when you put them back together).

Visually check your heads also for any cracks, if you see any you might be in need of replacements.

[wcfvw69]

I think what Busdaddy is suggesting is if you don't know how many miles are on this engine or its heads, now is the time to take them to a shop to get a valve job done to them. As you're finding, it's a lot of work to get them off.

His other question about compression and oil pressure would of told the tale of this engine overall health. If you don't know the mileage and you have the funds, now might be the time to tear it completely down. Split the case and inspect. Some people will replace just the pistons/cylinders and rebuild the heads. They then get a rod knock due to the increase in compression. The bearings and bottom end are worn out.

Both my bugs engine had unknown mileage on them when I bought them used. While the both ran fine, I just can't trust an unknown engine. I ended up taking them full apart while I had the engines out to reseal them. In both engines, I found . the bearings worn through the babbitt material. The heads were needing a valve job. I ended up rebuilding both engines. I trust them now and they've both run flawless since.
_________________
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[SevenOaks]

How crazy would it be to get new heads, pistons and cylinders, upsizing to 1600? I'm not ready to tackle the bottom end yet. It took all my nerve to get this far. I am committed to learning to do this stuff but right now I have more money than time and experience. I hope to be retired next year and reverse that.
_________________
David
1974 9-passenger bus
1969 Single cab
1966 Beetle

[Wildthings]

Have you actually measured you pistons to see what size you have now?

[SevenOaks]

[SevenOaks]

[wcfvw69]

[SevenOaks]

Geez, this is a slippery slope, isn't it?
I assume that can be done without splitting the case and if I find worn rod bearings that would tell me for sure how stupid it would be to not go all the way.
I wish my neighbor was a mechanic instead of a microbiologist.
_________________
David
1974 9-passenger bus
1969 Single cab
1966 Beetle

[Abscate]

That 1500 is a sweet balance of displacement, stroke , and power with a carb that doesn't ice up , gives good gas mpg.

Clean it up and run it as long as you can.

You can always find another 1600
_________________
.ssS!

[busdaddy]

That's why I suggested a good cleaning and inspection, if the cylinders aren't cooked or worn badly and the pistons have good ring lands and skirts you can likely get away with fresh rings and a set of rod shells along with some head work. But if it has big end play and leaks from the case seams it's never going to get easier to split it now and do it all.

You don't have to be a mechanic to do this, if you can read and follow instructions the Tom Wilson book and Bentley and some basic measuring tools like calipers and feeler gauges are adequate for what you are doing.
_________________
Rust NEVER sleeps and stock never goes out of style.

Please don't PM technical questions, ask your problem in public so everyone can play along. If you think it's too stupid post it here
Stop dead photo links! Post your photos to The Samba Gallery!

Слава Україні!

[SevenOaks]

Thanks for all the input. I will get busy with the cleanup and take it as far as needed to do it right.
_________________
David
1974 9-passenger bus
1969 Single cab
1966 Beetle

[wcfvw69]

Don't get overwhelmed with this. As mentioned, the Tom Wilson book, The Bug Me video on engine overhauls and other tools will help guide you.

There are also several Samba members that you can hire and will come to you to help if needed.

We've seen lots of folks over the years on this site do a top end only while not knowing the condition of the lower end. After reassembly and with the engine running, they heard the dreaded rod knock due to the increase in compression.
Others experienced catastrophic engine failure when a rod went through the case.

Did you measure the end play in the case? If not, measure it with the flywheel on and torqued. It tells a good story as well.
_________________
Contact me at [email protected]
Follow me on instagram @sparxwerksllc

Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[timvw7476]

I like how you paused & ordered the tool instead of hammering the pulley.
That & it looks like i can eat lunch off your epoxied floor tells me this will go OK.

[Abscate]

What's the driving habits on this David?

How many miles on engine and how many miles will you put on it before next time you want to drop it?

It's such an easy engine drop on a 69

People here tend to overvalue " rebuilding everything" but if your drive this car like its intended, 50-60 mph , and take care of oil , ignition parts, etc, clean it up, bolt it up and carry on.

You do want to preserve those pistons and cylinders as long as you can since the 83s are harder to find.
_________________
.ssS!

[SevenOaks]

The mileage on the current build is unknown. I've had the truck for a year and have added less than 2000 miles. I split time between it and the bus. I work from home so I don't have a daily commute. Mostly used for trips around town to the hardware, grocery and homebrew stores and only in dry weather. The homebrew store is 30 miles away and requires freeway driving but I just let them stack up behind or pass me by because I don't drive over 60.

Dropping the engine was a piece of cake in spite of the intimidation factor of being the first time. I won't hesitate doing it again when necessary.

But, I do want to learn to do all this. I've even considered buying a junk engine to take apart without the fear of screwing up something on this one. I will take it a step at a time, starting with getting it cleaned up good and see where that leads.
_________________
David
1974 9-passenger bus
1969 Single cab
1966 Beetle