When timed right, doesn’t run good

[busmania]

71 bus

At idle if I turn the distributor so that the timing notch lines up with the case line it does not run good at all and back fires and sputters when I hit the throttle. If I turn the dizzy counter clockwise a bit it runs good but the pulley notch is about 2-3” from the center line of the case. Make sense? What do I need to tune better?

[Glenn]

What pulley and distributor do you have?

You could have a pulley from a different year and the marks might not be correct for your distributor.

Trust me, i've seen someone with the same problem and had a pulley from a autostick which has the timing mark at 5* ATDC when his distributor needed to be timed to 7.5* BTDC.

The fact that turning it CCW sounds like you have the wrong pulley.

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[wcfvw69]

Post some pictures of your engine. Then post what the distributor number is you're trying to time.

There's many variables that can cause your issue. Glenn hit on a couple.

An engine photo that shows everything and listing the distributor, carb, etc will help folks guide you.
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[busmania]

Thank you. My pulley is like the photo on bottom. I didn’t have time this morning to pull the distributor to get a number but I did get a photo. Does this port on rear of distributor need vacuum?

[Glenn]

[busmania]

Well thats funny. Just last week my timing light with adjustable knob broke. Because I never used that adjustable knob, I bought a new one without it. If I go out and buy an adjustable, how do I time it? Do I set the knob to a certain number (20* or 30*) and then time to the notch in the pulley at the center line?

[Abscate]

The vacuum retard does indeed need a hose , and I hope the port is closed off too.fix that broken oil sensor wire too, stat.
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[busmania]

[Glenn]

[Wildthings]

I would make a mark at 28° BTDC and then time your engine at full mechanical advance, 28°BTDC @3500+ rpms, hoses off and plugged. Once you have driven it, you could try varying it from there a few degrees and see if there is a sweet spot.

[busmania]

Just to clarify. The dimple that faces the rear of the car is top dead center? Not the notch on the inner part of the pulley, correct?

[Wildthings]

[Abscate]

[SGKent]

[Wildthings]

There is a very good chance that your retard can will not hold vacuum. Put a hose on the nipple and see what happens when you suck on it. You should be able to suck on it hard and then close the end of the hose off with your tongue and have it hold vacuum. If it doesn't hold vacuum then don't bother with hooking it up.

[busmania]

Wow. All great info. Thanks everyone. Timing has never been my forte even though I know it’s relatively simple.

[wcfvw69]

It's a DVDA distributor like everyone is talking about. With luck, it's a 211905205Q. Look at the vacuum canister arm that attaches to the breaker plate. They are usually stamped with three digits. See if yours is 853. That is the correct canister for a 205Q.

You can run it as a SVDA if you don't hook up the retard (rear side of the vacuum can). You'd time it to 7.5 BTDC at idle, then remove the vacuum hose, plug it and rev the engine to 3800 RPM and make sure it's not more than 28* BTDC.

If you hook up the retard side of the canister, you'd set the timing to 5° ATDC. The retard side of the vacuum canister typically retards the timing 11-12°. As mentioned, the retard side of the canister hooks up to manifold vacuum. So at idle, the manifold vacuum retards the timing to 5° ATDC. The advance side of the vacuum canister works on ported vacuum. You only get ported vacuum with the throttle plate open.

It's easy to see if the vacuum canister is still good. The best way is with a hand vacuum pump w/a gauge. Pump it up to 300mm hg. It should not leak down. Do this on both sides of the canister.

When I restore those DVDA distributors, I also insure the vacuum canisters are set correctly for the model of DVDA distributor. All those DVDA vacuum canisters has different advances to the retard/advance sides. They also have different vacuum amounts that start to move them. I often see the vacuum canisters off on my Sun distributor machine and have to adjust them to advance enough or adjust them so they don't advance as much. The ones that Steve is speaking to that you could adjust with tools are very rare. Most require bending things to achieve the correct specs. I had a brand new NOS Bosch 853 vacuum canister recently. Out of the box, it only had 1° of advance. It needs to have a minimum of 3° though I like them set at 4°.

The other thing to be mindful of is- if this distributor has never been apart to be cleaned, inspected and if found to be ok, re lubricated, it needs it.
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Contact me at [email protected]
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Decades of VW and VW parts restoration experience.
The Samba member since 2004.

**Now rebuilding throttle bodies for VW's and Porsche's**
**Restored German Bosch distributors for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored German Pierburg fuel pumps for sale or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche fuel pumps or I can restore yours**
**Restored Porsche distributors or I can restore yours**

[airschooled]

Hey busmania, where are you located? You might have some carb and distributor experts down the street from you!

Robbvie
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