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T3TRIS
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2017
Posts: 299
Location: Portland, OR
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 Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 1:55 pm Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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| Stuartzickefoose wrote: |
| Bummer! Wish it was a question when me and kim walked by your place a few weeks ago. Would have been nice to hear it in person! |
Well, honestly we knew of the whine in reverse somewhat, though it didn't happen all that often (it happens when backing up for longer than just pulling out of a parking spot) and the disk shield didn't rattle yet! But the input would've been appreciate. Thanks! |
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jberger
Samba Member
Joined: November 17, 2003
Posts: 2476
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| Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 3:02 pm Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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To be fair, it's difficult to tell what your oil really looks like. The bubbles are normal. The unicorn blood metallic look is not... but again difficult from one flashed out pic. Do yourself a favor and send an oil sample off to Blackstone Labs. It will give you an idea of what is actually in there.
J |
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syncrodoka
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Joined: December 27, 2005
Posts: 12005
Location: Santa Cruz, CA
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| Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 4:30 pm Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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| Sodo wrote: |
| syncrodoka wrote: |
| The tranny drain is supposed to sit proud like that but it is supposed to have a magnet and not have vise grip marks on it from a bad PO or bad mechanic. |
Prob has vise grip marks on it because of the EJ22 exhaust blocking hex access.
That someone elected to change trans lubricant even though they didn't have a special tool to fit a converted
van with exhaust blocking access, doesn't automatically mean they are bad PO/mechanic. |
If they couldn't be bothered enough to buy or make a tool to do the job correctly like the current owner or any number of converters with the same header then they are lacking basic mechanical knowledge or just don't care. Vise grips are great for removing hardware that you don't care about and will get replaced. |
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Sodo
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Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 9603
Location: Western WA
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| Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 4:38 pm Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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Yep it's a scar, a scent marker. But easy to replace too.
More than a few things on my own van aren't right, because they are on the list to be dealt with when the time is right.
My stereo, for example is a POS - with wire-nuts on the speaker wires.
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Maybe drop a magnet in the bucket overnight to see how much is steel?
Keeping in mind that if there's magnesium in the oil --- that means the bearings are SO WORN out that gears are touching the housing. Which means, the oil was full of steel before it got a dose of of magnesium. And there will be more of both from here on out in any oil you put in there.
I had forgotten about that reverse gear decel groan (in the youtube) pretty much says "wasted bearing" that is deleting many miles off other parts..
Sorry there's no more leeway to soft-peddle this... no point wondering if this trans is done. No FLAPS flushing, no oil analysis. You are basically "grounded", no trips farther than your AAA will tow. Which will be NO fun in the summertime. Prob best to get it rebuilt before Van season.... better make some friends over at German Transaxle....
jberger I'd like to see some Blackstone analysis of a "good" trans. Prob should do mine! I think analysis of this one is wasted effort.
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb |
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T3TRIS
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2017
Posts: 299
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Thu Feb 14, 2019 6:05 pm Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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Well, I called German Transaxle this afternoon and opened up the Bentley at page 34.22... I think our path is pretty clear  |
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T3TRIS
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2017
Posts: 299
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 4:18 pm Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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I finally got around to draining the front diff. When I removed the fill plug, a few drops of oil dripped out of it (it was that full I guess). The oil that came out of the drain was pretty darn dark. And... lo and behold... there is a magnet on the front differential drain plug!! Here's what it looks like.
I already dropped the driveshaft, now it's time to drop the front diff and eventually the transmission! |
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Sodo
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Joined: July 06, 2007
Posts: 9603
Location: Western WA
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| Posted: Fri Feb 15, 2019 4:33 pm Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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That's the way a magnet should look, lots of 'open space' ----you don't wanna see it completely covered. But the front diff has no "shifting" to pollute the lubricant. Consequently front R&Ps last much longer than rear R&Ps. Plus they get a little less power than the rears
and in your case, perhaps much less power 
Can you turn the front diff input flange with the wheels on the ground? (VC open?)
Some folks say to mark the driveshaft flanges so you can put it back in the same spot as it was. I've never done that and never had problems but YMMV. If you haven't turned anything maybe you can still mark the shaft+flanges
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb |
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T3TRIS
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2017
Posts: 299
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2019 12:32 am Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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| Sodo wrote: |
That's the way a magnet should look, lots of 'open space' ----you don't wanna see it completely covered. But the front diff has no "shifting" to pollute the lubricant. Consequently front R&Ps last much longer than rear R&Ps. Plus they get a little less power than the rears
and in your case, perhaps much less power
Can you turn the front diff input flange with the wheels on the ground? (VC open?)
Some folks say to mark the driveshaft flanges so you can put it back in the same spot as it was. I've never done that and never had problems but YMMV. If you haven't turned anything maybe you can still mark the shaft+flanges |
Thanks, I did mark the flanges to be able to put it back together the same way. As far as turning the front diff input flange with the wheels on the ground... errr... I did this before I read your message (not the easiest thing to do on your own!):
I also poured the transmission oil out of the container (which also had motor oil from a recent oil change) and ran the magnetic drain plug through it, quite a bit. I was only able to get one sliver of metal to stick to it, about 1/8" in size, nothing else. I also ran the oil through a strainer (not super fine) and no major metal pieces were fished out.
However, you can see in the footage how golden the transmission oil is. The black oil is from the engine, the golden oil is the transmission oil...
Link
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Sodo
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Location: Western WA
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| Posted: Sun Feb 17, 2019 10:37 am Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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| VanagonVentures wrote: |
| I also poured the transmission oil out |
It hasn’t been a proper lubricant for your valuable and rare antique for a long, long time. Its one final quality being fluidity for the purpose of self evacuation. 
When you start to dig into a trans you see how important lubrication is and wonder how it dropped so low on the list of important Vanagon maintenance. This all seems so obvious now that we’re in the 200-300k mile phase of these daily-driven collector cars. But its also easy to see how nobody cared in the 0-200k phase, and that’s changing, one smokin’ checkbook at a time.
I see these fellers with low-mile vans, pristine OEM gears/shafts - they have gold in there. If they’ll just up the maintenance, they’ll have it for much longer. You can’t get that OEM quality anymore (except recently, luckily, and for big bucks - and only SOME items..... GT gears).
| VanagonVentures wrote: |
| and ran the magnetic drain plug through it, quite a bit. I was only able to get one sliver of metal to stick to it, about 1/8" in size, nothing else. |
Thats the conclusion you come to with one simple swish of the magnet in front of your eyes. The drainplug afro is not built by the magnet snatching every nasty steel particle out of your oil. Its built more like snow settling on a tree when theres no wind (nighttime etc when the van is parked). Suspended steel from above, falls slowly by gravity, and some are pulled to the magnet and held. And like snow, the rest of the steel falls to the ground elsewhere.
Particles more than an inch away simply fall to the transmission floor, to be re-suspended next time you drive. Then they go all around the trans, punching thru your oil film, deleting miles from good parts. The magnet is an indicato. But the magnet can catch and hold bigger chunks that go by, provided its not covered by 5mm of steel dust. The really big chunks can punch thru the fuzz and get right to the magnet.
You’ve already wiped your magnet, but if you tried to pick up a real chunk of steel out of gear oil with a fuzzy magnet, you can see how ineffective it is once covered. The magnet needs to be kept clean, with clear space on it. In almost every magnet pic I see, the guy’s waited far, far too long to dump the fluid. Which is normal, popularly accepted transmission maintenance, and will cause smokin’ checkbooks. But it takes a long time. Even so, it seems silly when clean lubricant only costs $16 (to $100).
| VanagonVentures wrote: |
| However, you can see in the footage how golden the transmission oil is. |
Yep that fluid is “clearly” no longer a lubricant.
Don’t feel bad, Everyone does it
It's the norm
.....but it is a lost opportunity.
Experienced (engine) mechanics don't know either. And they are the ones advising most people about their transmission maintenance. They want you to focus on engine maintenance. They often think good OEM transaxles are available at the junkyard for $500. There's NONE.
Because of THIS^^^
WHY would VW recommend this? Because the transaxle is so well-built, top quality, that it can easily run the vehicle's full lifetime even when towards the end, it's killing itself in its own barf. Whats the vehicle lifetime? 90,000 miles provides adequate customer satisfaction. Look at the service interval table. it ends at 90,000 miles. You don't get any help what to do after 90k because the vehicle no longer exists. At that point it's sold to a 2nd owner and no longer their responsibility. Their responsibility is to sell you a new VW based on your satisfaction.
And try to imagine how long they would last in CLEAN lubricant? A LONG time.
Then think how important this becomes when you have 125%, 150%, 200% more horsepower going thru that little WBX trans.
Everyone wants to know what interval to use. Here's what Syncroshop says:
30,000 miles when your magnet is showing a clean running trans.
15,000 once magnet starts to show steel buildup (your trans is getting 'old').
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Sodo says:
Every 15,000 if it's rebuilt
Every 15,000 if you have more power than a WBX
15,000 mi is for the minimalist.
As more of an 'enthusiast, I've been looking at my extensive filtration system, every ~5k and seeing more steel than I'd like to see. Every time you can tolerate a look at the magnet (pull it and stick your thumb in the hole, then put in your 'spare' magnet that you keep in the filler hole)
This is not a "disagreement" with Sycroshop. He just hasn't stated this combination of conditions yet (AFAIK). 
Syncroshop also says to ALWAYS use the best quality oil you can afford.
Sodo's modifier is "ALWAYS use the best quality oil that you are willing to dump out, often".
Syncroshop is thinking about a lubricant's ability to perform better under the excess transmission heat of a big engine. I can't argue that.
But if you can't dump $100 oil, and let it get polluted, all that extra protection went down the toilet (perhaps long ago) and now the extra $$ spent are negative $$.
============
A covered magnet indicated a trans being SO POLLUTED,,,, that the next time you look at the magnet, it's simply showing steel that didn't flow out last time you drained fluid. Anytime your magnet comes out completely covered, you should plan to drain/flush again (500 miles?) to get to a clean baseline. Where your magnet can actually show what's happening in your trans, not just doing dry-heaves of old barf. This is pretty basic.
If your magnet shows lots of stuff at 15,000 miles (and it's been 'flushed) get AAA towing, don't go far, and consider changing even sooner next time to see if it's 'clean. And start your process of interviewing trans rebuilders.
Don't "run your tranny out". If you send a POS tranny to your rebuilder, and ask him for the best deal he can offer, you will get a POS back. A POS tranny requires huge $$$$ to even hope for 100k miles. And it requires maintenance, MORE than an OEM tranny.
Don't assume you can just buy a used tranny. There are no more good used trannies out there, especially if you need one quick. The big-engine crowd has chowed them all down, one after another and they're all gone. And your rebuilder has no more good OEM parts in his stash for YOUR tranny.
oops I wrote another book.
One hand clapping here ....to spread the word to SAVE your valuable tranny by investing $16 a couple times.
It seems to make sense to some owners.
But anyway, VanagonVentures is on to a rebuilt, prob German Transaxle in Bend?
Don't make the mistake of calling it a "new trans" unless you buy all new gears, new shafts, new R&P (which is like $6,000+ in parts alone).
And then, (old parts or new), pay attention to the magnet, and keep the lubricant clean, like you would in your engine. Otherwise you're gonna do this again, and sooner than you'd prefer.
_________________
'90 Westy EJ25, 2Peloquins, 3knobs, pressure-oiled GT mainshaft, filtered, cooled gearbox
'87 Tintop w 47k 53k, '12 SmallCar EJ25, cooled filtered gearbox
....KTMs, GasGas, SPOT mtb |
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T3TRIS
Samba Member
Joined: October 30, 2017
Posts: 299
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Mon Feb 18, 2019 4:37 pm Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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| Sodo wrote: |
| VanagonVentures wrote: |
| I also poured the transmission oil out |
It hasn’t been a proper lubricant for your valuable and rare antique for a long, long time. Its......
[......]
......on to the magnet, and keep the lubricant clean, like you would in your engine. Otherwise you're gonna do this again, and sooner than you'd prefer. |
Thanks for the excellent information! We'll definitely be very very very diligent on maintenance once we get the rebuilt transmission!
_________________
Guillaume, Jennifer & T3TRIS
87 2-knob Syncro
- 94 Subaru EJ22, 225/70-R16 CLK 16x7 ET37
- Transaxle rebuild, Mexico paint job, Front end rebuild, 320Ah LiFePO4 Battery |
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T3TRIS
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Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 10:47 am Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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Alright, little update here.
First of all, thanks Ron (@Syncro_Jael) for chatting with me in details about this transmission endeavor, it was incredible helpful.
Thanks Ron too, though this time other friend Ron who helped us trying to remove the transmission last.
After quite a few hurdles with the adapter plate (for EJ22), with removing the clutch cylinder bracket (gotta weld those nuts in), with finding the differential actuator signal wires, it was the starter motor that stopped us. It is jammed in there, into the firewall, feels impossible to remove and prevents the transmission from moving away from the engine.
As it turns out, the shop that did our EJ22 rebuild, while they had good intentions also had crappy implementation. We had several other issues but this starter is the problem now. I remember the shop owner telling us they had trouble getting our original starter to crank the rebuilt EJ22. They tried different things but in the end, they opted to install a beefier starter. I also remember them mentioning having a heck of a time making it fit. Not knowing any better at the time, we just relied on their “expertise.” And when we picked our van up, it fired right up and hummed beautifully! That thing does start the engine without issues, but dang, if we ever have to replace it...
The back of the starter is already jammed into the firewall. We tried for a while to remove the started but couldn't get it to clear the studs. We tried to drop the transmission far enough for the starter to clear the firewall but the starter jams it. The way it’s mounted too makes it look as if it would be impossible to remove without dropping the engine!
As of now, I’m not sure I can remove our transmission without dropping the engine with it, at least low enough for the starter can clear the firewall and remove that darn thing (and toss it from a cliff... into a trash can... wouldn’t want to litter).
Does it seem feasible to loosen the mustache bar/engine cradle/mount a few inches, along with the transmission, to be able to clear that starter? At first glance, it seems that every hose and wire would have enough slack to allow that. Am I wrong about this?
I have an engine hoist and I know that its second job is to break whatever I forget to detach, so I want to make sure I'm not missing anything!
_________________
Guillaume, Jennifer & T3TRIS
87 2-knob Syncro
- 94 Subaru EJ22, 225/70-R16 CLK 16x7 ET37
- Transaxle rebuild, Mexico paint job, Front end rebuild, 320Ah LiFePO4 Battery |
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MarkWard
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Joined: February 09, 2005
Posts: 17114
Location: Retired South Florida
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| Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 11:06 am Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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Aren't you pulling a syncro transmission? If so, you are having a problem with the fuel tank, not the firewall. That aside, sometimes modifications turn simple jobs into harder jobs.
If I were you, I would drop the engine and transmission together and separate them on the ground. I'm guessing you are using an aftermarket bellhousing if you can't remove the starter. Normally on a syncro, you end up removing the locker servo to move the starter out.
Even if you get the transmission out with the engine installed, it is likely you will not get it reinstalled.
While you have the entire assemble out, you can look at how to improve removing the starter in the future. It is more likely a starter will fail before a clutch does. Post up some pictures when you can.
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T3TRIS
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Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 11:12 am Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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| MarkWard wrote: |
Aren't you pulling a syncro transmission? If so, you are having a problem with the fuel tank, not the firewall. That aside, sometimes modifications turn simple jobs into harder jobs.
If I were you, I would drop the engine and transmission together and separate them on the ground. I'm guessing you are using an aftermarket bellhousing if you can't remove the starter. Normally on a syncro, you end up removing the locker servo to move the starter out.
Even if you get the transmission out with the engine installed, it is likely you will not get it reinstalled.
While you have the entire assemble out, you can look at how to improve removing the starter in the future. It is more likely a starter will fail before a clutch does. Post up some pictures when you can. |
Yes sorry! I was working with a friend who has a 2wd and we kept cussing the starter/firewall combo together, but gas tank makes sense! Massive learning curve for me on all of this! But it’s not entirely horrible and somewhat fun!
I’m about to give it another try, just had to wait for the coffee to kick in. It was a bit of a late one last night.
_________________
Guillaume, Jennifer & T3TRIS
87 2-knob Syncro
- 94 Subaru EJ22, 225/70-R16 CLK 16x7 ET37
- Transaxle rebuild, Mexico paint job, Front end rebuild, 320Ah LiFePO4 Battery |
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MarkWard
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Location: Retired South Florida
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| Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 11:31 am Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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Trust me, drop the engine and transmission together. You won't regret it. If you don't heed my advice, remember this when you go to put it back in. You won't have gravity helping and you must get the input shaft splines lined up straight to get the transmission bolted up. Way easier on the syncro to do it on the ground. They come out way easier than they go in. This is true of any manual transmission.
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T3TRIS
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Joined: October 30, 2017
Posts: 299
Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 11:35 am Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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| MarkWard wrote: |
| Trust me, drop the engine and transmission together. You won't regret it. If you don't heed my advice, remember this when you go to put it back in. You won't have gravity helping and you must get the input shaft splines lined up straight to get the transmission bolted up. Way easier on the syncro to do it on the ground. They come out way easier than they go in. This is true of any manual transmission. |
Thanks, that is good advice! I was also considering taking the engine out when the transmission was out to give it a good clean and a few upgrades (one of our old CV boots made sure the engine is caked). This might just be the right excuse...
_________________
Guillaume, Jennifer & T3TRIS
87 2-knob Syncro
- 94 Subaru EJ22, 225/70-R16 CLK 16x7 ET37
- Transaxle rebuild, Mexico paint job, Front end rebuild, 320Ah LiFePO4 Battery |
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MarkWard
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Location: Retired South Florida
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| Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 12:07 pm Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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Do you have the small car bellhousing or are you running an adapter plate? Is the starter in the stock location?
Unrelated, but the syncro conversion I am doing may end up with a diesel power plant. VW mounted the diesel starter on top of the bellhousing. For the syncro, they had a diesel specific fuel tank to account for the starter location. I got my diesel tank from Karl at Westy Ventures. It might give you more room to work.
It would suck to have a starter crap out and not be able to swap it out fairly easily.
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T3TRIS
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Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 1:27 pm Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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| MarkWard wrote: |
Do you have the small car bellhousing or are you running an adapter plate? Is the starter in the stock location?
Unrelated, but the syncro conversion I am doing may end up with a diesel power plant. VW mounted the diesel starter on top of the bellhousing. For the syncro, they had a diesel specific fuel tank to account for the starter location. I got my diesel tank from Karl at Westy Ventures. It might give you more room to work.
It would suck to have a starter crap out and not be able to swap it out fairly easily. |
That's a good idea too! We'll see if I can't replace that starter with a smaller one.
I'm honestly not sure which adapter kit we have (it was done 2 owners before us). I'll see if I can find some markings when I drop everything. In the meantime, here's a photo of the adapter plate seen from the passenger side looking backward (the grease is from an old boot).
And here are photos of the starter.
And lastly, I had realized that I didn't even check the metal on our defunct transmission drain plug. It turns out that it looks like it had a magnet that broke off! If it broke off un the transmission somehow, not only would it be incredible, but I'd hope it just stuck to the housing. More likely is that the mechanic who last tinkered with it dropped it and broke the magnet off (since they used vice-grips or a pipe-wrench to remove it...).
_________________
Guillaume, Jennifer & T3TRIS
87 2-knob Syncro
- 94 Subaru EJ22, 225/70-R16 CLK 16x7 ET37
- Transaxle rebuild, Mexico paint job, Front end rebuild, 320Ah LiFePO4 Battery |
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Syncro Jael
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| Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 6:48 pm Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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From experience, if you loosen the bolts on the engine carrier and drop it an inch or so it will give you the clearance to pull the starter out. I also cut back some of the fuel tank insulation so that installing the starter is easier.
If you tip the EJ22 engine up in the rear it will also give you a better angle to pull the transaxle. I just used a jack and a block with the engine carrier bolts loose. Easy peasy.
I must say I have had a little practice pulling Syncro transaxles. I can usually have one on the ground in 20 minutes.
Pulling the engine requires a lot more work and then you have to re-fill and bleed the cooling system. But as others have said, it is also a great option to do. If you do that take a good look at your fuel tank mounts. Now is the time to replace them, drop the tank, new sending unit, new vent lines, new fuel lines, and next time I am removing the fuel tank insulation.
Keep at it.
Ron
_________________
1987 Syncro Westfalia Hightop - NAHT
Subaru EJ25 Forged Frankenmotor, Triple Knob.
Jael = (Mountain Goat) |
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T3TRIS
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Location: Portland, OR
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| Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 9:40 pm Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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| Syncro Jael wrote: |
From experience, if you loosen the bolts on the engine carrier and drop it an inch or so it will give you the clearance to pull the starter out. I also cut back some of the fuel tank insulation so that installing the starter is easier.
If you tip the EJ22 engine up in the rear it will also give you a better angle to pull the transaxle. I just used a jack and a block with the engine carrier bolts loose. Easy peasy.
I must say I have had a little practice pulling Syncro transaxles. I can usually have one on the ground in 20 minutes.
Pulling the engine requires a lot more work and then you have to re-fill and bleed the cooling system. But as others have said, it is also a great option to do. If you do that take a good look at your fuel tank mounts. Now is the time to replace them, drop the tank, new sending unit, new vent lines, new fuel lines, and next time I am removing the fuel tank insulation.
Keep at it.
Ron |
Thanks for the tips Ron. I ended up dropping the engine basically half a foot using an engine hoist and having the transmission on its own jack. My girlfriend was helping pull the engine while I was pulling the transmission. I didn't want to go through disconnecting everything off the engine, marking all connections, draining the coolant system, etc just yet as my priority was the transmission. Tomorrow is a sunny day on the roads and I want to take advantage of that to get over to Bend from Portland (2wd car)! When I get back, I'll probably do it though. I certainly can't claim 20 minutes! But hey, got it out and didn't break any nipples off of the rear lock actuator!
Here's a photo of the starter removed by the way, that upper part looks pretty massive compared to the other starters I've seen:
And here are the transmission and front differential ready to be driven to German Transaxle tomorrow.
I should compile a list of things to do:
- Replace that silly starter (recommendations?)
- Replaces all bushings
- Move battery back under passenger seat (the shop moved it under the bench to get it closer to the starter... don't know how much sense that makes)
- Inspect fuel tank
- Replace fuel lines
- Clean up that gunky engine
- Maybe even relocate the ECU (it's in a plastic box in the freakin' engine bay right now, right behind the passenger side taillight)
- Cry a little about how much this is all costing...
Ron, why would you remove the fuel tank insulation? Isn't it there for a reason?
Again, thank you all for the help!
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Guillaume, Jennifer & T3TRIS
87 2-knob Syncro
- 94 Subaru EJ22, 225/70-R16 CLK 16x7 ET37
- Transaxle rebuild, Mexico paint job, Front end rebuild, 320Ah LiFePO4 Battery
Last edited by T3TRIS on Wed Feb 20, 2019 9:55 pm; edited 1 time in total |
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Syncro Jael
Samba Member
Joined: December 19, 2013
Posts: 2204
Location: Utah
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| Posted: Wed Feb 20, 2019 9:47 pm Post subject: Re: Syncro rattle grinding whine noise. Bad VC, transaxle, diff? |
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From what I have read it’s only for US models for emission control. The transaxle will run cooler with the added airflow. I’m sure others will comment.
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1987 Syncro Westfalia Hightop - NAHT
Subaru EJ25 Forged Frankenmotor, Triple Knob.
Jael = (Mountain Goat) |
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