1967 1500cc engine removal, evaluation and rebuild

[a.marscapone]

Hi folks, I am about to drop my engine to do some work and evaluate what shape it is in as best I can with an external inspection. The engine starts right up and is pretty peppy. The PO says it is a 1500. Most of the original parts are on it. Here are the issues I am having:

- Engine seems to be noisier than most, with an extra “clack” to my ear. Videos below, opinions please
- Engine bay seals are original and shot
- One or both heater boxes need repair where the ends slip into the muffler (this and old engine bay seals are contributing to exhaust smell in cabin)
- Backfire in exhaust when RPMs drop while in 3rd and 4th. Happens with newly refurbished, original style, vacuum advance distributor. Does not backfire with the 009 centrifugal advance distributor the vw originally came with
- Has no thermostat nor rod (but the flaps, levers and spring are there, yay!)
- Firewall tarboard coming loose

Link


So my priority punch list is:

- fix heater boxes
- Install new seals and tarboard
- Install NOS thermostat and rod
- get carb restored (not happy with recent “rebuild”)
- clean up tins
- torque heads to spec if neccessary
- remove fuel filter from engine compartment (mechanic installed it, wtf? already one under gas tank)
- check for blow-by, pinpoint oil leaks

With the engine otherwise running well, I am hoping to evaluate anything else that can wait so I can get the car back on the road asap.

Here is the engine as it looked when I bought the car last September

Here it is today as I start removing pieces for a better view

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73 Westy
67 Zenith Blue Beetle Sedan
73 Beetle Sedan
67 Lotus White Beetle Sedan - current

[daven]

Carb looks to be an original (30PICT1) (has original 67 air breather bracket on it) and is probably stamped 105-1 on base of carb (indicating a "power circuit" carb - that's what you want). Send it to Tim at Volkzbitz and you won't be disappointed.
Also noticed you have the correct 67 generator with the blade connectors instead of studs.
Good Luck
Dave

[bugheadred]

before you take it out get a compression tester and check your compression or better use a leak down tester

[Pruneman99]

Exhaust leaks can sound deceptively like a mechanical noise, and also cause backfire on deceleration because it let's fresh air into the muffler.

I would reseal the leaks first, then go from there.

[carcrazed]

Engine sounds like a normal washing machine. It does sound like you have an exhaust leak on the side of the car you put the camera to.
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1965 Herbie Replica. 1776cc dual Kads.
1961 Beetle 33,000 Original Miles

"Just When you think you are getting ahead, you're always wrong."

[calvinater]

Looks like generator should be clocked ccw 90 degrees . Check bently to be sure.
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"Albatross"!

[KTPhil]

[a.marscapone]

Thanks for the advice! It would be great if fixing the exhaust leaks eliminates the backfire and clacking. I have hope now.

The carb is correct for '67 and I have been in touch with Tim at Volkbitz on a restore. Appreciate the confirmation.

Did not do a leak down or compression yet because the engine runs so strong. Will do so when I put the engine back together. Checked Bentley, gen is good.

Down to the heater box bolts. Very stubborn near #3. Soaking in WD40. Hoping not to break a stud. Fingers crossed.

Will provide pics of the progress soon.
_________________
73 Westy
67 Zenith Blue Beetle Sedan
73 Beetle Sedan
67 Lotus White Beetle Sedan - current

[KTPhil]

[a.marscapone]

Thanks KTPhil, will upgrade the penetrant, nuts. You're not the first to advise this, but you will be the last... The rest on my Ace Hardware list or to-do lists.
_________________
73 Westy
67 Zenith Blue Beetle Sedan
73 Beetle Sedan
67 Lotus White Beetle Sedan - current

[Eric&Barb]

[a.marscapone]

Had not heard of a nut splitter, thank you. Yes, will be sure to plug up all holes in the fan shroud. Looking for spark plug wire holders, also need some kind of grommet for where the accelerator cable tube exits through the front of the fan shroud. I took out the metal fuel line and grommet early on. Wanted to be sure it was clear of the engine droppage
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73 Westy
67 Zenith Blue Beetle Sedan
73 Beetle Sedan
67 Lotus White Beetle Sedan - current

[notsnarb]

[wcfvw69]

Adjust the engine valves if you haven't already and do the compression test before taking it apart.

Your valves sounds a bit loud to me like they are out of adjustment. What's the label on the side of the distributor say? You say you have a backfire w/the SVA but not the 009? To me that would indicate you're running lean on the mixture adjustment. My bone stock 67 with all original, restored parts had a mild backfire and re-adjusting the mixture screw to a bit richer cured the backfire.

You may also consider ditching that fuel pump and putting a correct, restored Pierburg Dome top fuel pump back on. They have "C" clips on them which keeps the rocker pin from backing out. They are just superior fuel pumps to any of these aftermarket pumps sold today.
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[Danwvw]

Sounds like a crank speed knock!
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[scdevon]

Excessive cam gear backlash maybe. It doesn't sound like a bearing knock, but something isn't happy in the bottom end. Maybe try taking the generator belt off and run it for a few seconds in case it's a generator bearing or something in the fan housing.

Can you feel endplay on the crank pulley?
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1970 Beetle 1600 DP

[Danwvw]

Yeah, I am not sure, Video it smooths out too easy to be something real bad. I would just tighten all the valves up with zero or even 1/4 of a turn tighter than zero and see if it clears it up before pulling the engine: Valves can make noise if there is looseness with how the cam and cam bearings are held in a case. It could be that the case needs re-torquing paying close attention to the proper torque sequence of torquing the 13mm nuts. It's a good idea to tighten the case down with the six big nuts first then just lightly tighten the 13mm nuts at the cam ends say to 7 ft/lbs then back off the 6 big nuts then torque the 13mm nuts at the cam ends 14 ft/lbs then torque the big nuts 18 ft/lbs then all the 13mm nuts. This will avoid stripping out the case at the long 8mm stud above the cam which could cause this if it's not holding it's torque of only about 14 ft/lbs.
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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[a.marscapone]

[a.marscapone]

[a.marscapone]