Engine case oil leak

[pgtips]

Hi,
I've had an oil leak i finally decided to fix. I assumed it was the crankcase seal (think that's it's name) at the back where engine meets transmission.

Mines a 1302 semi auto. It's definitely not ATF fluid, it's engine oil behind the oil drain plug so after reading there's only one seal it could be I've bit the bullet.

But now I've removed the engine I'm starting to think it's actually leaking from the case where it's joined. I will still replace the seal once I've got the flex plate off but what's the way to approach this case leak?

can I clean up, loosen the case bolts, reseal (reapply sealant) and tighten up again?

Thanks in advance,
Pg
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1975 1.8l FI Auto Westy - Subaru converted
1971 356 kit 1600 TP - semi/stickshift
1971 1302 LS - semi/stickshift

Trim ring info here -> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559668
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=451210
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=479721

[FeelthySanchez]

Guessing that you're pondering R&R of the flywheel seal (toward front of vehicle).
If that doesn't cure the leak, case must be split & thorughly cleaned in order to re-seal it. But ......
Prior to re-installing the flexplate, suggest cleaning all grime off the front of #3, & insect for a crack there - a common place for failure.
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[Tom K.]

Also, if are considering a minimalist approach in the short run, you can re-torque your case hardware. Old threads will skew torque readings. But if anything is loose, then go ahead and tighten. Large case bolts surrounding the cylinders torque to 25 foot pounds and the many small 13mm nuts along the perimeter to 14 foot pounds. This might help seal your case - but don't get carried away and over torque.
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'91 Vanagon Westfalia
'70 Beetle Convertible
'71 Super Beetle Semi-Automatic: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=714131&highlight=
'65 Ghia: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=762478&highlight=

[VW_Jimbo]

Just so you have an idea where to look.

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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[FeelthySanchez]

Here's a couple examples:

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[glutamodo]

Also, the oil gallery plug, you can see the steel cap pressed into the case, those can be problematic.

Always press the flywheel seal until it bottoms out, not just flush with the block.

Oh, is the camshaft plug installed "upside down", which is what you want with the Autostick, otherwise it runs really quite close to the drive plate and runs the risk of contact and slicling a hole in it.

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Andy T.


IMAGE NOTE: It has been noted that Chrome based browsers may have issues in displaying my vast image library, which use non-secure links and are on an FTP server. Images should still be viewable if the link is clicked though.
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[pgtips]

Thanks for the informative answers.
My first job (tomorrow now) is to clean it all up, I'll upload some pictures.
I've got a 36mm socket but the flex plate removal is going to be tricky.
_________________
1975 1.8l FI Auto Westy - Subaru converted
1971 356 kit 1600 TP - semi/stickshift
1971 1302 LS - semi/stickshift

Trim ring info here -> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559668
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=451210
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=479721

[FeelthySanchez]

Flex plate is easily removed. The hub is tapped - use 2x 8mm bolts as jackscrews:

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[Cusser]

I think he's asking how to keep engine from rotating while he loosens the flex plate.

I might guess impact wrench, or removing a spark plug and jamming rope into the combustion chamber.
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[Tom K.]

The flywheel locking tool that we all use on manuals won't work on autosticks. Here is how I did it.

Four pieces of cut steel bolted to flex plate and engine case:

And then, because the torque buddy won't work (no flywheel teeth), you need a pry bar like this:

_________________
'91 Vanagon Westfalia
'70 Beetle Convertible
'71 Super Beetle Semi-Automatic: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=714131&highlight=
'65 Ghia: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=762478&highlight=

[Cusser]

[vwoldbug]

Take it to a repair shop or a tire store and see if they will loosen the gland nut with an impact . Then you will figure a way to torque it later. Also check end play before it is loosened and don't lose the shims .

[pgtips]

[pgtips]

Well almost all done. I ran into a few problems which I'll post up for reference to help anyone else if they get to this.
The crankcase seal was the problem and is the same as the std engine, it was rock hard.

Simple enough to change once the engine is out and flex plate is removed.

The method of locking the flex plate worked really well but I had noticed my torque converter bolts were a bit chewed on the head and the bolts themselves were looser than I wanted. One of the bolts was a real pig to get out, the head was almost round.

I decided to helicoil the threads but I would not recommend this. One of the M8 nuts on the flex plate came off. Worse I decided after I had refitted the flex plate so do it but way too much swarf and then i couldn't lock the plate to remove it again.
Bugger, so that meant new M8 nuts. My advice don't mess about helicoiling it, it weakens it (the flex plate nut) and they have been under strain for years. Just get new ones rewelded in place its the only long term fix.

Reinstall went mostly ok bar I got my coil wires mixed up such a feeble mistake to make but my + and - tape got smudged.

I fitted a new condensor and new points.

Torque converter bolts, thats a pain. These bolts are really hard to source in the UK and mine were chewed and the threads weren't all that so I'm curently looking for some. You can't use a 13mm head/socket (std bolts size which is available everywhere) as it won't do up. I think I have 2 alternative options one of which will hopefully do it and I will post up when I know.

Despite the hassle I'm really glad I changed the seal, so far its all dry. I also fitted sprung loaded pushrod tubes while I was at it which are also great + a rocker breather setup. I wanted to undo the nuts underneath that have release valves (?) but they woldn't budge so maybe some other time.

Thanks again for everyones input and ideas.

PG
_________________
1975 1.8l FI Auto Westy - Subaru converted
1971 356 kit 1600 TP - semi/stickshift
1971 1302 LS - semi/stickshift

Trim ring info here -> http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=559668
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=451210
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=479721