1975 Beetle Convertible Resto/Mod Build-Chop,Dash,Suicide,Shave.

[MACJELLY58]

Thanks for the compassion Bruddah Jimbo. I was wanting to thank you for sharing your ordeals the week before last. Your Truck...The Jeep...and Paddle boarding! What a week!!

I was raised here in Hawaii. Four brothers and two sisters...they all surf. They took me out a few times and it was just not for me. By the way, the orange surfboard hanging on the wall in the garage...Not mine. I'm got stuck storing it for my niece. It's now got a good layer of grinding dust on it.

Anyways, thanks again for keeping my mind centered and appreciating my small problems.

Speaking about small problems, the seal alignment got a "little" closer. I think that I got it as good as I can. I'm afraid of getting to the F.U.B.A.R. moment if I keep messing with it. I again had to re-drill the seal mounting holes, as the seal position moved again. Also, weld up the old holes again.

I believe this is the end result for the Convertible Frame.

Now, I could get back to the fabbing the Quarter Window mounts. I know I keep harping on not having a metal Brake but, it sure would have been a lot easier. All I got finished was the two channels, the horizontal adjustment bars and the attachment tabs. Still gotta make the mounting brackets and then I get back to finalizing the wooded quarter windows.

[jeremy.g]

Holy Cow.

I step away for a couple months, and look at you! Great progress. I didn't expect to see the custom woodworking steps needed for the convertible frame.

Awesome! This will be a car to be proud of.

-Jeremy

[MACJELLY58]

Hey Mr. "G"

I know right! I never thought I'd have to learn to bend wood on this project. I know your hip deep in the Motor building right now, but sure would like to see that "Leaf Hopper" all finished up. I can't imagine being that close to being on the road. No rush though, first things first.

[MACJELLY58]

Sorry Mr. "G". I was catching up on Bugeee's motor building and had a brain fart

I hope the house is going well.(almost done?). Nah, I know Winter is here and probably causing problems with construction. I just can't wait for you get back to inspiring me and all your fans! Selfish...I know.

[MACJELLY58]

Well, time has been scarce lately. What else is new, right? I still try to get in one or two hours a day, if at all possible.

So, this is a couple of days worth of messing with stuff. The finishing of the Quarter window mounts took a bit of time. Hammering and bending on my Vice. The 16ga. is sure a lot harder than the 22ga. to get to do what I want. But, I was able to finish the left and right mounts. Primed and painted black.

With those ready, I decided to try Brazing the window frame. If you remember, I bought some Bronze MIG wire and had read that 100% Argon was "critical" for that process. I asked the clerk at AirGas how much the smallest bottle of Argon costs. He said the smallest was a 60 and it's about the same as the 80/20 I usually get, $230. Since I was only gonna do a small project, I asked if the gas use was Pro-rated? Meaning, I would get reimbursed for any unused gas returned. He said, "NO".

Screw that!! So, I thought I'd take Bradah Jimbo's advice and go with gas flame and Rod Brazing. I did some reading and it appears that they had ceased production of the MAPP gas in 2008, which burns at a higher temperature necessary for the process. Now they sell MAP/PRO gas, which does not burn at the higher temp. It may still work, but that's not what I had read.

I had the Bronze wire already and I have 80% Argon/ 20% CO2. So what the HELL, I gave it a shot!! I got a scrap piece of the window frame and tried a few heat and wire feed settings, as the Bronze wire is a bit softer than the steel wire.

I couldn't find a setting that made anything but UGLY Globs. But, it looked like it was doing the job. I did some grinding and it cleaned up alright. The joint was also strong as hell. So, success? I don't know.

Might as well give it a go on the Quarter frame/ Tried the little foot on the front of the Frame. Inside and out, then ground down. So far, so good.

Then, I clamped the frame in the hole and put in a few small "spots". I didn't want to melt the window seals. Then removed it and put in some heavier, hotter metal.

Then the grinding. I may try and buy some brush-on Soldering/Brazing Flux tomorrow and see it that helps.

[MACJELLY58]

Sorry, I just haven't been feeling it lately. So tired. But, I got a little done. I did find some brush on Flux I had in the closet. It made no difference in the MIG Brazing. Still ugly. I got some heavy Silver Solder that I've read is compatible with the Chroming process. So, I'll give that a try next, along with the Brazing.
I installed the "B" pillar seal on the Quarter window. Then I adjusted the Quarter window to mate and seal with the One piece window.

Using my cardboard template, I cut the sheet metal mounting plate for the window crank and screwed it into place. Made mounting tabs for the bottom of the '68 window Regulator. I had installed the Regulator with the window at it's full up position and bolted it all in.

Rolled the window down and checked the clearance for the Bear Claw latch. The latch is about an inch thick and 3 inches deep. It looked like it would fit satisfactorily(hopefully).

At this point, my Hardboard window is just sitting in the regulator channel. It's not glued in or anything so, it just kinda flops around. Even after I fix it in the channel, we all know about the problems with One-piece window "rattle". So I'll have to install a couple of window guides to secure it later. But first, I wanna make sure the Latch fits. I think that's kinda important!!


So, here's my "AutoLoc" brand Bear Claw latch kit. I opted for the Stainless Steel Latch bolts. I believe this was the "Mini" latch kit.

The mounting plate is welded in the door jam and the latch is bolted in. I had planned to install the latch at the old door stop location. This is a reinforced area on the jam. This is also where the side impact bar intersects for added strength.

So, that's the plan. I measured and cut a template to trim the mounting plate.

Then, my customary "STALLING" period before I ever do anything I consider Major! In my defense, the time spent "Dicking around" has gotten shorter! Anyway, eventually I got around to working up my nerve and got to cutting.
On a side note, you may have noticed the blood blister under my left thumb. I don't want you to get the wrong idea...that I am a "Go getter" and a "Hardcore" hobbyist. That was actually a drinking accident. I was using my ballpeen hammer to break a block of ice for my Adult beverages and got a little too excited in anticipation.

Now that I had a hole, I fitted the mounting plate and then the plate and latch. Yeah! it fit in there with a little room to spare.

Okay, now we got some problems. First, the Beetle door is concave and the mounting plate is not. Not a big problem but, I'm gonna have to "blend" that in with a little body work later.

Second, because of that curvature, the latch release arm is not on the inside of the door frame. Did you catch that in the last photo above? Here's a better view.

Tack welded the latch plate in and installed the latch.

I put a large crayon, the tire marking type, into the "claw" and closed the door in order to mark the spot for the Latch Bolt.

Then, mark and trim the latch bolt plate.

There is also a reinforcement behind this area as well. It needed to be clearanced for the capture nut cage. A little pounding and a few relief cuts got the job done.

Shot it all up with the weld through Zinc primer and tacked it in.

I gave it a test...Success....Sort of. I did not foresee how the latch would look installed. In my minds eye, I thought that the "claw" would be hidden in the jam, much like the stock. But, as you can see....it can be seen. I think that may bother the HELL out of me, having to look at it right in front of me all the time.

I don't know, I may have to revisit that in the future. Anyway, I gave the "Popper" function a try. The spring loaded action of the claw did a good job of kicking the door away from the car in order to get a grip to open the door. I think it should improve even more once the door seals are installed.

Finished up the welding then, cleaned um up and sprayed um.

Alright!! . So, I got the Window Regulator in and situated. Got the Bear Claw Latch in there and working. Best of all it all fits and works!! Let's make sure the window operates freely...and it should, cause I had mocked up everything from the beginning. NOPE!!

For some reason, that I can't for the life of me figure out, the window now is about an inch too low at it's highest point.! !

I messed up again somewhere. After much considering, all I can think of is to move the whole regulator up an inch. This would necessitate that I rework all the attachments. Not world ending like the time the driver's door wouldn't fit and I had to trim the 1/8" by cutting the door in HALF! But, discouraging.

So, of course...I avoided thinking about it and moved on...for now. I had to make the window guides anyway.

I planned on using the window guides from the rear quarter window. The channel is the right width but, they are curved. I had thought of using the original driver's window guide that is attached to the wing/vent window. But, that one is sized for just the width of the glass itself, not the glass with the chrome trim. No prob...I'll just straighten the quarter window guide. Shouldn't take that long. Well, 3 hours later...I finally got GUIDES!!

[VW_Jimbo]

That the whole plot, “1 step forward and 2 steps backwards!” I feel your pain!

Don’t give into it. Keep on going. It is awesome the way you document each move. It’s like watching a chess game being played!

The body lines are coming together nicely. You have been putting in some serious love. I can see it!

Keep going!
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[MACJELLY58]

Yup, yup, JIMB0. You are so right. But, I guess if everything always worked out...It wouldn't be a challenge!

Thanks to your Sage advice, I now walk away when I get into a bind. I keep busy with other mundane tasks until I can get my mind right. You have saved not only a lot of work in damage control but, also my sanity

And to prove it, as I was trying to fall asleep last night, It came to me. An easy fix for my window problem. I don't have a real window yet, so I'll just glue an extension piece to the bottom of the window to get the extra height I need. Easy-Peasy!! If I had just jumped in there and started hacking and wacking like I would have usually done, I'd be in the same type of mess I had always gotten myself into before.

Now, I'm excited to get back to some progress.

[VW_Jimbo]

You are always welcome!

You know what Albert Einstein (he is one of my models) stated regarding insanity?

“The definition of insanity is doing the same thing over and over again, but expecting different results.”

Do not fall into that trap. We as people are smarter than that. Always remember that one. You watch. As you are working, that little statement will “pop” up in your thoughts, during a task you are working on for the upteenth billionth time. Remember to listen.

Just another gem I have learned through the years! Keep on making forward progress!
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[MACJELLY58]

HAH!!

What a coincidence! I have been battling my learning curve with this Brazing/Soldering crap. Days of doing the same thing and getting nearly the same crappy results. I finally, got to Googling the information tonight. Seems, I'm cooking the material too much and not cleaning enough, too much flux, etc...

Gonna give it a "different" approach tomorrow. HAH!!

[Buggeee]

[MACJELLY58]

Oh BUGEEE, just when I needed a smile. You have delivered. 🤭 To tell you the truth, I thought about the same type of fix. We'll have to see. And just for your information, I'm far from Zen and I got all the rain I can use right now.

[MACJELLY58]

Hello all! If your still here that means that you must love punishment. If so, I will not disappoint. It pains me to be present when I work on this thing. So, I can't imagine anyone VOLUNTEERING to witness such debauchery.

But hey, everybody's got their thing. Who am I to judge.

That being said, I've been jumping around a lot working on different things to get these doors functional. My excuse was that I would try and corral the door/window/window crank/window regulator/door popper/alignment wedge/interior door handle/window guide rails/bear claw latch/ latch bolt, etc...You get the idea.

But, I think that I just need to move around because I get frustrated. What an idiot man!! I really should have tried to restore a nice Fastback Daily driver for my first foray into Auto stuff. But here I am, so what to do but soldier on.
Anyway, that was my long explanation as to why you may see things in photos that I have not covered as yet. Please be patient and I will get to it in a linear way to keep things less confusing. I THINK!!

So, here I go. The last problem I was having was the driver's window, NOW not rolling up to the top. My fix was the gluing of an additional 2" of Hardboard to the bottom. Why It happened, I don't really know. Probably, I didn't have the window seated well when I mocked up the regulator.

I was also having trouble with Brazing the Brass window frames. At least, I think they are Brass. I could not get the Bronze rod to melt before the frame started to melt. So, I moved on to trying to Silver solder the damn thing.
That worked a little better, but was not strong enough for the large unsupported Driver's window frame. I'm concerned about all the handling when they are sent to be re-chromed.

I went back to the MIG Brazing. That was working out okay. But, I could not get the joints to not CRACK! It was not "Sticking" with the capillary action that they keep talking about. What I found was, as I cranked that little Hobby welder up, the Brass or whatever that metal is, has a very specific melting point. I could actually WELD the metal together. However, that specific melting point is very tricky. It goes from a little penetration, to total
Blow-out! Anyway, strong as hell.

I had to add a few lengths to both ends, as well as, a 3-1/4" extender piece at the joining of the vent window and the side window. Just a note, the vent window chrome frame is about 1/8" wider than the regular window frame. I had to blend that down. I hope it doesn't look too bad.

Sweeping up everyday was kinda cool. It was like I was Gold Mining! I'm feeling RICH.

Having some success, I of course was sick of working on those frames and jumped to something else. I got out the Door Popper solenoids. They are the Autoloc 35lb. pull kits. They initially are slated to come with 50lb. pulls, but I thought that might be a little much for this little Buggy.

Wow!! They are kinda BIG! I went to set a mounting location and there wasn't a lot of options for me. The obvious, is the lower front corner, for the direct pull downwards. However, with the Suicide, the front door frame is little narrow. If I had the stock hinges and mounted them in the rear of the door, It would have fit nicely. I could also, mount them on the horizontal axis but, there is now no room with the one piece window there. So really, I had no choice but the front lower corner.

First thing, the mounting bracket extends too deep into the door. I cut about 5/16" out of that and welded it back together. The Solenoid now fits a lot mo' betta, into the door frame, but it still protrudes beyond the inner frame a bit.

As you remember, the bear claw latch arm was still outside the inner door panel. I cut off the ear with the cable holes and welded an extension piece to move the ears into the door frame. I welded the hell outta that arm, hopefully, it will take the abuse. At least for now, it lined up with the solenoid pull arm.

Fabricated a mounting plate outta good 'ole 16ga. and cut out a hole to fit it in. It actually fits about an inch behind the inner door frame and is lap welded and plug welded in there.

Next, was the testing...But alas, I need to take a break. My daughter has been hogging the desktop and I've been using my Laptop to post this. Little keyboard is killing me. I'll post more soon.....Suspense....

[Epilog79]

Love the suspense!!!! I have enjoyed watching your “struggles, frustrations.” I am constantly amazed by your work. Keep at it. This will be a killer project in the end.

[MACJELLY58]

Thanks Epi!!

You know I just keep trying to keep my eye on the ball. So jealous of you guys enjoying your rides out on the road. I keep your pics of the "Black Magic" bug handy. I really like the idea of that deep Black color. It would really accent the few chrome pieces I plan on having. But, I would really have to get the body
S..T..R..A..I..G..H..T !! I don't think my body working skills will be up to the task. Fingers crossed!!

[MACJELLY58]

Okay, I got a Desktop. I guess I'm showing my age! I don't know how these Mellennials do everything on their phones. My thumbs are just too big. Maybe evolution will have the future generations with long thin fingers, like the little grey Aliens.

Anyway, so I got the Solenoid mounted and pretty close to lined up with the Latch arm. I thought I should jump to the window Regulator to try and firm up that position. You know, make sure everything still fits. I needed a little more clearance, just for good measure. I made some cut-outs of the indentions in the inner door skin to bring the window a little closer to the panel.

Went to do a test fit and I would always have to pull the inner skin to get the Regulator gear into position. So, I decided it was time to fix that too. Made some relief cuts and straightened that out so the gear can now slide right in. Less irritation.

While doing the test fit, I needed to relocate the center mounting tab. It is just free floating in my new gaping hole in the center. I drilled out the spot weld and moved it up to the top where I can now bolt it to the inner skin.

The window Regulator is now Solidly in there, and everything STILL fits! Small miracles. Now, I felt I could test the Solenoid. It's pretty straight forward. There is a large, I don't know...10ga. positive wire? Then, they recommend a similar size ground wire from the mount to the battery. A Relay is included with a momentary button switch. Also included, is a steel cable to link the Solenoid to the Latch arm. You cut to size and then crimp. For the test, I used a length of wire clothes hanger for the connection and my Jumper battery for power. I just tapped the negative to engage the Solenoid.

HOLY CRAP, THAT WAS LOUD!! It scared me something awful, Goober! The door is bare, with no insulation or panels or anything to help dampen the sound. But, I think I will install some rubber on the mounting and between the Solenoid and door skin. Hopefully that will help. But hey, it worked like a champ!

Progress?? I guess. Moved on to figuring the window guides. I got some long threaded rod and pretty, inset/flat allen head nuts from my kids bunkbeds(that they had completely destroyed). Plan was to weld the rods to the guides and then use the nuts to mount to the door jam. Simple.

Lots of room. This is awesome!!

My window guide, metal-reinforced felt, arrived the same day. How fortuitous!! Finally, something just falling into place for me.
Can you believe that this came via U.S.P.S.? It cost $17.50 for shipping, But still. Amazing. That's an eight foot length of guide felt, I think it's for a GMC or something. It should be close to the size I'll need.

Okay, so here it comes. You know how I work.

First, the rod and nuts won't work the way I thought. With nothing to tighten the nut to, the rod will just float right through the jam hole. I can work around that, if the nuts are the way I wanna go.

Second, the window Regulator track is at an angle. So when you roll down the window, it actually moves away from the rear window and down towards the front of the door. I guess that makes sense, you don't want the window sliding up and down right up against the frame or seals. But with that angle, if I snug the guide up to the window frame while the window is up, when I roll the window down(and forward), the window pushes the guide away also.

Basically, if the window is up, the guide hugs the top but not the bottom of the window. If the window is down, the guide hugs the bottom but not the top. I'm gonna have to figure out a configuration that will work.

So, OF COURSE, moving on !!

Door Centering Wedge. I don't think I really need that. The Founding "Deutsch" Fathers, apparently thought so. But, the Bug hinges seem to have "Sagging" problems. Well, after the first 20 years or so.. I'm gonna put 'um back on

Here are the old ones that I cut out of the rear door jam.

There's the inner reinforcement "jam" mount. Then, the outer mounting skin. And finally, the Wedge receiving plate.

I had bought new hardware from Chuck's Convertible Parts. I went with the Chrome.

I'm running out of room to put things on the narrow front jam of the door. There is still a little space under the latch, above the Solenoid and in between the window guides. So, that's where they'll go.

First, I cleaned them all up. The wedge mounts to a caged nut plate that is spot welded to the inside of the door. The old ones(also cut out of the rear of the door), were rusty but cleaned up nicely.

Then a little primer. I got the weld on the Solenoid mounting plate while I was spraying.

Then, on to the cutting. I used the old outer skin piece as a template and made a hole. The inside reinforcement plate was not in position. It fades away from the outer skin. Not good.

I got a scrap piece of jam and made a bracket to weld the inner mounting plate to.

Then in goes the outer skin and fit the old wedge receiving plate. I didn't want to scratch my beautiful chrome plate while I mocked it all up.

Then, on to the door side for the Wedge. I outlined the cage on the outside to drill the holes for the plug welds. Used the Dremel to elongate the mounting screw adjustment hole. Welded and ground and fitted. It lined up just fine. Sorry, because it's in the jam, I couldn't really get a pic of it all fitting together.

Got back to welding in the jam outer skin and cleaned and painted. There was a bunch of that O.E. solder at the bottom of the patch. It started melting and sagging. More bodywork

All done. RIGHT! I had to see the chrome plate in there.

Ahhh...success! But, wait... is that a large gap I see on the step of the jam.

WHAT THE !! ...... Did I mess up somehow, again? I got out the old plate that I used to mock it up...and yup it fit nicely.

Well, we all know about after market parts. Hit and miss. I'm not sure which I will use. Will the gap bother me? Undoubtfully, yes! Bother me too much? I don't know. So, I cleaned and primed the old ones and I'll make that decision when I have to.
Aloha, and thanks for visiting. (I'm trying to be more positive )

[jitbba]

I went through 4 autoloc solenoids before I scrapped them. They rust out quickly which then separates the pull spring from the cylinder body. You’re better off finding an actuator with a rubber boot to keep moisture out. I used a company called AVS in Cali and it’s been great.

You cannot have rubber between that solenoid and door since that unit self grounds
_________________
My other ride is a Zildjian

[Busstom]

[MACJELLY58]

Howdy JITBBA,

Thanks for the advice. I was unaware of the rusting issue with the Autoloc Solenoids. I would give it a shot and try to make them water resistant, if the noise they make didn't scare the crap out of me. That was not the vibe I was looking for with this build.
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" Hey Babe, thanks for the interest in my car. Sure, you can take a look inside, let me use my cool remote door opener--TA-TONK!!" "Hey, where you going Babe?"
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Anyway, researched the AVS actuators and there are a lot of good reviews, like yours. It also looks like it will fit better in the door, which will solve future Door Panel fitting problems. So, I bit the bullet and ordered a pair. "Live, Learn, Loose Money." Maybe I can use the Autoloc Solenoids as Gear Pullers.

Thanks again. That's what is so great about TheSamba, people chiming in giving information and assistance so we all can enjoy these cars to the fullest.

[jitbba]

AutoLoc is kinda like the EMPI of custom cars. Plentiful, but kinda crappy
_________________
My other ride is a Zildjian