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Replacing metal rail on fiberglass AW top - project steps
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90SyncroAdventureWagen
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Joined: September 05, 2017
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 27, 2019 9:23 pm    Post subject: Replacing metal rail on fiberglass AW top - project steps Reply with quote

Thanks to some help and suggestions from this forum, today I resecured the fiberglass top of my AdventureWagen by replacing the metal strip that holds the sides down. I wanted to share a how-to for anyone else who might search in the future. All photos are at the end of the post.

The reason for replacing the chrome trim on the sides of the fiberglass top is that the screws had started to pull out of the top, allowing the trim to pull away from the van. I wanted to make sure it was securely attached to keep myself, other people, and the van safe.

The original setup is:

  • van body
  • butyl tape
  • outer fiberglass shell (inner shell doesn't come down this far)
  • steel channel (thin with rolled edges)
  • screws going through steel and fiberglass into van body
  • chrome trim snapped over steel channel


What I did was replace the steel channel with a piece of aluminum RV trim, using screws one size larger since the old holes could have been stripped. The new RV trim takes a vinyl insert to cover the screws. I also replaced the butyl tape.

Note that you could also loosen all the way around and reattach the entire top. I felt it was safer to keep the front and back intact since they're still held on very securely by the original adhesive.

Materials and tools needed:

  • AP Products flat trim with insert, part # 021-54601-16, 1 1/4" aluminum trim in polar white - cut to length from 16' piece - http://approducts.net/PDFs/catalogs/AP_ServiceCat_2017_sm.pdf
  • about 34 zinc-covered steel hex-head screws (sold as metal screws), size #10, 3/4"
  • 25' of vinyl insert trim, 1" wide (comes in white, black, and other colors)
  • 25' butyl tape - I used 1/8" thick by 3/4" wide but thicker might be good
  • 4 end caps from AP Products (optional)
  • caulk or RV sealant
  • socket wrenches
  • large, long flat-head screwdriver
  • smaller flat-head screwdriver
  • putty knife
  • drill
  • painter's tape
  • stepstool or ladder
  • cleaning supplies
  • safety glasses, work gloves, vinyl/latex gloves


I ordered the trim from an RV place and had them cut it to size. I had it cut to 10'8" which gave a little space around the black plastic channel holding on the front and back of the van. But read below - I think it might be better to have it fill the whole space, and skip the end caps.

I first called the big RV place in town, who said they can only order "OEM parts" like trim if they have a VIN for the RV. Then I called a smaller place and they were excellent, looking up the part and giving me the number so I could view it online, then ordering it and cutting it to size. (You could order the trim in smaller pieces from Amazon but I think it has a little bit better integrity if it's all one piece.)

An alternative would be to use a plain strip of aluminum bar. Metal Supermarkets has something workable and they'll cut it to length.

Put on your safety gear and start by wedging the end of the screwdriver in between the chrome trim and the steel channel it was snapped onto. This exposes the screwheads inside that space. The steel will bend away (mine was very rusted) and the chrome will curl a bit but stay in one piece. Unscrew from the van any screws that haven't pulled loose, until the steel piece is removed. Be sure to account for all the screws so they don't end up in a tire. The chrome could be snapped back on if you have a way to find/make a replacement steel channel with rolled edges, but I couldn't find one.

Use the small screwdriver to lift the fiberglass top away from the van a little, leaving a gap. Insert the larger screwdriver and use it to hold the top open, giving a little room to reach underneath. You want to slide it in at maybe a 45° angle, then wedge it closer to parallel to the van side. Do the reverse when removing it, tilting it back to 45° to lower the tension before sliding it. Use the smaller screwdriver for an assist when repositioning the larger one. Be gentle on the fiberglass so it doesn't crack, and never lift close to the edge except with very light force to get it started and fit the second screwdriver underneath.

Lifting the side up with the screwdriver, remove the old butyl tape with the putty knife. Go close to the front and back but not all the way - you'll have to be able to wedge the side open enough to reach up in there with the replacement butyl tape. Put the old butyl tape in a garbage can or cup as you work, so you don't step on it and get it stuck in the treads of your shoes.

Give the fiberglass and gutter a good scrub. I used cleaning spray and a scrub brush dipped in soapy water. I rinsed by pouring from a bucket, not using a hose to avoid splashing up under the top. (You need a dry surface for the butyl tape to stick.) Dry the work area.

Using the screwdriver again to wedge the top outward, align the butyl tape under the fiberglass and press it to the van body with a finger. I sized mine based on a piece I'd removed, but because it gets compressed by the van, you could go thicker and let the excess squeeze out. Mine looks like a good seal though.

What I did next was put a piece of painter's tape over the fiberglass and push a screw through all the holes. Then I moved the tape to the new aluminum trim. I also marked a few inches above each hole with a small piece of painter's tape on the fiberglass to make them easier to find. Once I lined up the new trim, the holes in my tape weren't exactly over the holes in the fiberglass and van, but they were all off by the same amount.

Working with a helper, I lined up the new trim, found the first hole, and drilled a new hole in the trim. (It's predrilled at fixed intervals, but the original screws were not uniformly spaced. I used the original holes to make sure I didn't drill into anything inside the van.) I used a bit that was almost as big as the screw (otherwise it's hard to get the screw in) but smaller than the screw head (so it still has a good grip). Then use a socket to put in the screw. If you have two drills or an electric screwdriver, you can alternate tools more easily. I switched from drill bit to socket after each hole at the ends of the van, but in the middle I was able to drill a few holes and then put the screws in after. Just be sure the trim is flush all the way or the holes won't line up.

As for trim placement, the new is much taller than the old (1 1/4" vs. 5/8"). The new trim has a slight edge on the back, which I lined up with the bottom of the fiberglass. This made it easy to keep it level as I went along. However, it did make some of the screws pretty close to the sides of the trim which have thicker edges. I had to finish a couple screws with a screwdriver (mine had flat-head grooves on the hex head). This placement keeps the bottom of the trim out of the gutter and makes the top of the trim sit only slightly above the flat part on the bottom edge of the fiberglass top.

Once all the screws are in, insert the vinyl trim. I used black. In my case the screws that were close to the sides made the trim not fit in some places, and it's overall a little lumpy because it's designed for smaller screwheads. But I'd rather have to tuck the trim back in than compromise on the screws.

Caulk along the top of the trim. I used white silicone outdoor caulk. I know a lot of people don't like it, but I figure it's easy to replace. I bought a tube of some other RV sealant but decided against it because it's harder to remove and sets up harder too. (It might be easier to caulk before inserting the vinyl to avoid wiping up smears, but it also might mess up the caulk if your finger slips.)

Then for the ends of the new trim, I used end caps. However, they kind of break up the line of the black insert that almost connects to the black plastic trim holding on the front and back of the top. You can see that in the photos. I didn't screw the end caps on (the screws didn't line up and I didn't want to make new holes), so I tried caulking them on but will check the security tomorrow and if I can pull them off, I'll go back with adhesive instead.

The top feels very secure now. I had to remove the awning to replace the passenger side trim, so I need to get new bolts for the awning clamps. (WOW were they stuck on good.)

Here are some photos.
Original trim pulling away. The screwdriver starts in that semi-circular gap to pry the steel channel from the trim.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The original steel channel.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The original butyl tape.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The new trim screwed on.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The vinyl inserted. I was planning for the end cap to cover the gap, but I think it would look better if the trim were cut perfectly to size (no gap) and the vinyl touching the black plastic around the front and back. You could get it cut to 11' and trim the last bit with a Dremel or hacksaw.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The end cap covering the gap. Also, you can see how the vinyl looks a little lumpy from the larger screwheads.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


The finished look from a distance. The white end caps stand out.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.
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swissarmychainsaw
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Joined: March 02, 2019
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 31, 2020 10:13 pm    Post subject: Re: Replacing metal rail on fiberglass AW top - project steps Reply with quote

So, just to confirm, the AW top is held on by adhesive, and then those little sheet metal screws on the sides? That's it?

thanks!
Nick
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johnnytod
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2021 1:22 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing metal rail on fiberglass AW top - project steps Reply with quote

Hi I am doing the exact same process like you. Too bad I cant find the original metal strap to buy because these original chrome trims look so much better than the vinyl.
Do you think there is enough space in the roof gutter to mount a roof rack or something else similar (given that these alu straps are much wider and protrude much more into the gutter)? This is important to me because I will definitely want to have the option of putting a roof rack and if the alu trim prevents that, this would not be a solution for me
Cheers
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alaskadan
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PostPosted: Tue Apr 20, 2021 8:24 am    Post subject: Re: Replacing metal rail on fiberglass AW top - project steps Reply with quote

A quick search and AP Products comes up with a few profiles of trim very similar to the original trim in aluminum. With or without holes. Funny though that their own website doesn't show it but they sell it on many other sites. Just search ap products flat trim. If that trim is just an edge treatment and the screws don't help hold the roof on id use trim with no holes and some permanent bond tape.
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