What years are BEST to buy, what years to AVOID? (common issues)

[mg93108]

Hi
I've owned a number of Vanagon Westfalia's but I'd like to buy a Eurovan Camper.
Can you wonderful "Sambaneers" provide me with some info about what are the BEST years and which (if any) should be avoided?
I've heard something about transmission issues but I really don't know.
I'm sure that ANY older vehicle has their issue (certainly Vanagon's do) but I'm just wondering if there are any really significant things to be concerned about.
Just to be clear....I'm not looking for a totally restored van. I'm looking for something that I can do body and paint, interior, cosmetics but want to ensure that I get a good mechanical unit.
If you were looking for a Eurovan, what year would you buy...or doesn't it really matter?
THANKS EVERYONE!!

[Stripped66]

IMO,
I would prioritize: 1) mileage; 2) vehicle/service history; 3) age.

1) These vehicles are 16-25+ years old at this point, so the amount it has been driven will give you a fairly good indication of impending service (suspension, drivetrain, etc)...try to find as low of mileage vehicle as you can afford.

2) There aren't many mileage-unicorns out there, despite the ridiculous prices in the used Eurovan market. Try to find a vehicle with a complete service history with regular oil and transmission-fluid changes; and, mileage-appropriate service, such as replacement of timing chains, suspension and steering components (bushings, ball-joints, etc), etc. If a major transmission service, rebuild or replacement has been performed, receipts and reputation are of consideration.
If there is no service history, then it is a total crap-shoot whether the van was maintained, cared for or abused, or if a major repair is looming on the horizon. In which case, a 'screaming deal' can likely cost as much as the median market price of a well-maintained van when all repairs are said and done.

3) Older vehicles will likely have more issues with interior components, mainly plastics. Remember, it's a VW, not a Mercedes: 90's era VW plastic trim is fragile, and the plastic in older vehicles will potentially be more prone to cracking. This may further be compounded by region and owner history (SE or SW, stored outside under hot summer-time temps, vs. NE or NW and/or stored inside; etc). Likewise, newer vans have a more powerful VR6 and may be better suited to modern interstate driving (75+ mph). If you want a manual transmission, or are considering a diesel swap at some point, you might want an earlier van.


And obviously, drive it...preferably as long as the seller is comfortable allowing you to do. Transmission problems can't hide from an extended drive...it should shift smoothly without any RPM flares or hard engagements into each gear. Engines should idle smooth, accelerate smooth, not have any valvetrain/timing chain rattle, etc. Don't assume a problem you discover on a test drive is going to go away (it won't); and, if you are not skilled to identify, diagnose and/or repair said problem, then be wary of what any potential problem is worth in the discount of the asking price (i.e. the repair may be more costly than you anticipate).
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[mg93108]

[Stripped66]

Sorry, I didn't understand what knowledge you're bringing into this search.

There isn't a stand-out year out of the bunch, and no year seems to elicit any more problems than any other from what I've seen. The automatic transmission "issues" are largely dependent on mileage, abuse and service history (or lack thereof), and 01-03 VR6's are known to have cam sprockets that wear their teeth down to nubs (again, typically maintenance history will have addressed this...if there's no maintenance history, plan to replace this ASAP).

So, to directly answer your question, 'all years should be avoided'...that's pretty much what I tell anybody who has a glimmer in their eye after looking over my van.

Good luck!
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[mg93108]

[Zeitgeist 13]

I thought the 12v engines were more prone to nubbing the sprockets. The five cylinder manual trans vans are probably the most robust EVs, but lots of us really like the '01-'03 vans due to more power, bigger brakes and swaybars, etc.
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[Stripped66]

[IdeaNerd]

[Zeitgeist 13]

The 24v engines are just in the '01-'03.
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[Joshwa]

Here is an example of the worn cam sprocket.

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93 Weekender TDI conversion (AHU)
93 MV TDI conversion (1Z)
Weekender rear cot
Late model cabin air filter on 93
Euro spec bumper install on 93

[Dana Champion]

I've had type 2s for years. I currently have a '70, and an '88 auto, both Westfalias.

I had planned on getting a EVC. I prefer the Vanagon lower bed ; Nice and flat.

I like the '01-03. Drove one at Pop top Heaven. Nice power, braking, traction control was

available, I believe.

In mid year '99 they changed the upholstery (final offering), lost the drawer under the mirror

(now a cupholder), new dash with cool blue lighting, and new steering wheel.

I personally thought I wanted a 2000. The 140 hp 12v motor seems to have enough power

for me. The later models mostly all came with the high altitude fridge vent. Two side vents.

I would also choose the single middle seat, if possible.

Look at the different offerings in the classifieds. Compare them visually to see the visual

differences, and compare the mechanicals. See what you like. I borrowed a friends '95

manual. Liked the five speed. Shift bushing went out on 1st gear. Prefer later interior

Read the forums. Familiarize yourself with EVC's.

Drive one or more, if possible.

All the best with your quest !

Find the one that works for you.

Dana

[thallihan]

The most sought after version is the 01-03 due to its 200hp and brakes. however the downside is the 24valve puts a lot of stress on the timing gears. If the oil wasnt changed frequently with high quality full synth then the ''soft'' metal gears are easily worn down. This can cause noise issues at first as a warning, but eventually will cause internal damage if not caught.

the 97-00 had 140hp, but doesnt not have the common timing gear/chain issues.

93-95 *AUTO* versions stay away from. the Auto trans in the 5cyl version are no good and problematic. 5-speed 93-95 is slow but reliable.

To summarize: try to obtain a well maintained 01-03 WITH service docs showing the tranmission was replaced and timing gear/timing chain replaced.

[RichBenn]

The '97-99 VR6 12V may have only 140 hp, but it has almost as much torque as the 24V. As we all know, torque is what gets you up the hill. Horsepower develops with high rpms.
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Rich