Explanation of gas line connections

[74 standard]

I ran a new steel line through the tunnel but I'm not sure of the connections to the motor and tank. My thought is to flare and install barbs on both ends with a filter just below the tank and use stainless braided hose to connect from filter to steel line then more stainless braided hose from steel line at the exit point left of the tranny to the pump. Any thoughts ? Is this the proper way to do it ?

Thanks for any advice.

[Eric&Barb]

Just get a good quality flex fuel line that fits the 6 mm metal pipes. If you want to, install fuel filter that will fit the flex fuel line either under the fuel tank or farther back over the transaxle. Filter is only needed for a fuel system that has not been completely cleaned out from front to back or at least run for many tens or thousands of miles and filter has not shown any crud in it.

Replace flex fuel line every two years.

Just because someone is making SS fuel line, does not mean it is only made of SS. Instead it is a rubber fuel proof flex fuel line with a SS braided covering over it. So when (not if) the rubber cracks inside the SS covering it is still just going to leak. The SS covering would only be a good addition to some machinery that needed the fuel line to be much more resistant to sharp cutting edges hitting it, like black berry vines might do.

K. I. S. S.
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[glutamodo]

Where the metal lines exit the frame, you do want proper rubber supports on them.

Also, I think you should use decent rubber hose connecting the tank to the chassis fuel line and from there to the engine. The driveline and the body do flex in relation to each other, and having them hard-lined is not a good thing.

Now, I no longer care for German style rubber hose with cloth covering, having had too many of them fall apart over the years. Not much of a fan of stainless braided covered rubber hose, either. I now use ethanol rated rubber hose and I've not had any issues with it. Last time I bought fuel hose it was this:

https://www.belmetric.com/rhm5-flennor-multifuel-hose-5mm-p-3718.html?cPath=14_662
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Andy T.


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[ashman40]

Steel lines last a long time. Hoses (rubber or not) wear out faster. Steel braided hoses better handle vibrations/abrasions.

The stock arrangement was:

Fuel tank

Flexible hose from tank to center tunnel steel line (allows body flex/vibration)

Steel line running thru tunnel (supported internally by brackets)

Flexible hose from center tunnel to engine steel line (allows engine flex/vibration)

Steel line running around the left side of the fan shroud (supported by hangers/clips)

Flexible hose from steel line to fuel pump inlet (allows engine flex/vibration)

Flexible hose from fuel pump outlet to carb inlet (allows engine flex/vibration)

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AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[glutamodo]

Ash, I'm nearly always on the same page as you, but on this, I waver. Steel braided is OK, but you have to be able to trust the rubber inner layer. In the end it depends on who made the rubber innards.
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Andy T.


IMAGE NOTE: It has been noted that Chrome based browsers may have issues in displaying my vast image library, which use non-secure links and are on an FTP server. Images should still be viewable if the link is clicked though.
I do not know how to fix this. All I can say is it all works fine for me with what I use, Firefox.

[ashman40]

[Glenn]

I just replaced all my fuel hoes with Flennor Multi-Fuel Hose 6mm Braided which is E85 safe.

https://www.belmetric.com/multifuel-hoseethanol-ap...5q4a0ee7t0

Hose from tank to body (good place for a "metal" filter)
Hose from body to engine hardline. (good place for a "metal" filter)
Hose from engine hardline to pump
Hose from pump to carb

ABA "band" clamps on all hose.

I use a Hastings GF-1 filter.

Steel braid is just rubber hose with a metal cover. If it's not ethanol safe, it's no better than rubber hose without the cover.
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Glenn
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[glutamodo]

[bluebus86]

Skip the flare fitting to barb end, instead simply put the rubber hose on the steel pipe with a hose clamp, no barb needed. the addition of the flare gives one more leak point. Keep it simple, this is an extremely low pressure system, no need for barbs. however if you want, you could form a small flare on the pipe to act as a single barb, but that is really overkill.
braiding can act like a hacksaw if it rubs on stuff, can cut a hole in the gas tank for instence.

Bug On!
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