New to me 1965 Beetle

[Cameron_Talley]

I picked up a new to me 1965 Beetle from The Bug Stop in Arlington, Texas yesterday. Super excited about my first air-cooled VW.

I've got a couple of issues I've got to get fixed before I can get the car inspected. As far as I can tell, the tail lights don't work. Not sure about brake lights yet, haven't been able to check. Turn signals ARE working, though. Haven't checked the bulbs yet but any other ideas?

Second, the generator idiot light flickers on and off a little bit. It goes out if I give it gas. From what I read in the Muir book it's likely either A) Fan Belt (seems tight, not shiny/slippery or B) Generator issue. I'm guessing it needs new brushes or the brushes cleaned.

Third, when I pull the knob to turn the lights on, the first notch turns on the interior lights, no problem. The second pull turns on the headlights, but the interior lights go out! Any ideas on that one?

And feel free to tell me what's wrong from looking at my engine photo. I'm just getting my feet wet with Air-Cooled VWs and haven't done a long of mechanical work on cars before, but I'm eager to learn.

[Mark Evans]

Welcome! Looks like a solid start.
_________________
'63 Ragtop

[mukluk]

Check your fuses for the no tail lights issue, make sure they're not blown and that the fuse block contacts aren't corroded.

Your interior (guessing you mean speedometer) lights only working in the first detent sounds like they're connected to the wrong terminal of the light switch. They should be connected to 58b but it sounds like they're connected to 57.
_________________
1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[rstrobel]

I had similar issues to yours with the lights. I fixed it by making sure that I have good grounds and clean bulb housings.
_________________
1967 VW Beetle
1993 VW Cabriolet
My 67 build thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=716767
•(__)•
(O\!/O) <--- supposed to look like a beetle

[Cameron_Talley]

[mukluk]

[don1357]

That looks so much like the '66 I sold before moving to Alaska I did smoothie rims, plus '63 seats and front turn signals.

If you are a responsible owner these cars get better and better over the months. Every time you pull a bolt or nut, anti seize it. Every time you work with cables get the terminals squeaky clean and coat things with dielectric grease to stop it from corroding again.

[Eric&Barb]

Congrats! Does look like a nice project. Do start going thru everything to make it run better and be more reliable. All fluids need to be changed, and would just fully rebuild the brakes to CYA.

Check out the "Wiring" section thru the "Technical" button above at top right of this web page.

For now block off the two holes in the rear engine cover plate/tin. Can use tin can lids and a nut and bolt thru center of the lids to seal each hole off for now. Any holes in the engine compartment that you can see down to the road, are allowing hot air that has already cooled the engine to get back into the engine compartment. Not good for cooling the engine.

Originally your rear cover plate would only have the hole on the left, and have the pre-heat tube from carb go down thru that hole and on a pipe bolted to the 3&4 head.

Post more engine images of each side of the in engine compartment. Need one to show intake manifold, and a couple looking up under the engine from the rear. Looks like you are missing the lower rear cylinder tins, and you are missing the sealing tins around the intake manifold heat risers. You need all the original engine tins to keep the engine living longest.
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!

[Pruneman99]

[Eric&Barb]

[irvanm]

Cool car, you and the young man are going to have some fun.

[chasbro]

I use Deoxit it. Comes in applicator bottle. Works great.

[Pruneman99]

There is a picture of a fuse panel on the side of the WD-40 can so it's gotta be the stuff to use

Actually when took it out of the sonic cleaner it looked brand new.. for an hour. Then you could tell the connectors were starting to oxidise. I did it again and spritzed it with WD right away. A few weeks later it still looked perfect when I put it in. Brighter lights.

I'm not trying to say WD-40 is the best choice here, but it works for me and I like the smell.

[Cameron_Talley]

Thanks for all the replies! Did a little more investigating yesterday afternoon. When the knob is pulled to the first click, I have driver's side lights. In other words, Driver's headlight, Driver's taillight, and the license plate light. Second click gives me both headlights but no rear lights at all. I'm going to check the fuses one by one this weekend and also take a look at the rear of the fuse box. Will take some more pictures too.

Also found out that I've got a leak somewhere--it rained buckets today and I opened the door and found a pool of water behind the passenger seat. I think it's getting in through the back near the rear window. Not sure yet. Mopped it up and put a damp-rid in the car to help.

[Eric&Barb]

Check that there is no water in the front heater opening. Windshield leaking will get water in the heater channels and rust them out from inside out.
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!

[Rome]

As to the tail lights- Yes, start with the fuses as suggested. If you do work on the headlight switch, first take the ground cable off the battery. There is a thick, red 14-gauge wire going from the positive terminal via the starter to the light switch that is always hot even when the ignition is off. This is the source of your power to the lights with the ignition off.

Wiring diagrams indicate terminal numbers and colors which correspond to the numbers on the components (light switch, wiper motor, etc) and the wires in the car "if" the original wires are still present.

Nearly 20 yrs ago I bought a running Type 3 on which several of the rear lights were not working. Fuses appeared OK. Turns out 3 bulbs were bad!

Engine:

[Cameron_Talley]

Thanks for all the replies--I haven't had a lot of time to try and track down what's wrong. I did look at my fuse panel and noticed that all my fuses are white. I am under the impression that I should have at least one red (16 amp) fuse. Isn't this correct? I've ordered fuses from JBugs.

I jiggled the headlight switch around some and I've got everything working except the right rear tailight (I haven't checked the bulb yet) and the brakelights. the tailight that works doesn't get brighter with the brake pedal. Not sure if that's related to the fuses or the brake light switch.

Can I shoot the whole fuse block with some electrical contact cleaner? Would it hurt anything if I did this while it's in the car? I really don't want to muck about with it too much since everything else is working. I jsut need to get the tail and brake lights going so I can pass an inspection.

Also, I noticed some gas (or maybe just gas vapor?) accumulating on top of the gas tank where the sending unit attaches. Is this common?

Finally, here's some more pictures:

Untitled by Cameron Talley, on Flickr

Untitled by Cameron Talley, on Flickr

Untitled by Cameron Talley, on Flickr

[Eric&Barb]

You have a 1500, 1600 or bigger engine. So the original 1200cc 40HP rear engine tin will not work. The later tin is wider at the heat riser pipes.
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!

[Cameron_Talley]

Well I've got all the electrical working except the brake lights. I haven't checked the switch yet so I don't know if that's what's going on or not.

Here's a video of my engine idling. I'm Deaf so I'd appreciate if anyone could tell me if it sounds right or not.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aHziGoh7bM

Still need to plug those holes in the engine tin. Is there anything else missing on my engine?

I did have trouble starting it yesterday. Turned the key and the red and green lights are on, but wouldn't crank at all. Not sure if the starter was moving or not--Again I'm Deaf so can't hear it. On a whim I tried the procedure from the Muir book where you put the car in 3rd and push it backwards, and that did the trick. So I don't know if that's what was really going on or if it was something else too. It's been hot here and I don't know if the heat had anything to do with it.

[Eric&Barb]

Engine sounds good, but idling a tad high. Put a tach on it, and adjust more like 800-900 RPM and see if the gen light stays off.

You need the proper carb cable return spring setup. Do keep that spring that has been jury rigged in there, it is for the thermostatic flaps system.

Missing air cleaner flap. Not a huge deal breaker, but would be nice to get a new one in there or a new to you used air cleaner with flap in place. Helps to keep the carb from icing up in humid weather.

AGAIN, would be helpful to have images showing up underneath the engine showing the rear underside.
_________________
In Stereo, Where Available!