Replacing rotted lower left rear structure on 67 Fasty

[Max Welton]

So my 67 Fastback has damage (rot and PO hackage) in the lower left rear structure. There is nothing left to connect the fender to. Also the PO welded in a mustache bar support.

So I'm looking for repair strategies. I do have the hulk of my old 68 squareback which is intact in this area but there appear to be some differences. I don't know if the differences are 67-68 differences or fasty - squareback differences. The rear fenders from the two cars appear to be the same.

Here is the 68 structure:

So ... do I need to be looking for a 67 Fastback section or will a 67 Squareback section be the same?

Max
_________________
1967 Type-3 Fastback
Under the Knife https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=151582
Home Stretch https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=767836

[Bobnotch]

Should be the same, or very similar.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[Max Welton]

67 Square to 67 Fastback?

Max
_________________
1967 Type-3 Fastback
Under the Knife https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=151582
Home Stretch https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=767836

[Yabbadubbadoo]

I imagine there's no real shortcuts due to all the layers of metal in there that are welded together.

You have to peel it back like an onion skin probably starting at the rear valance then the inside of the rear valance (inner air duct structure) then work your way to the sides (inner fenders) where the rot is. Maybe section the rot off the inner fenders and replace the lower portions to minimise the work then spot weld it all back together replacing the inner ductwork and rear valance if necessary. On that note, familiarize yourself with the spot welds and get some spot weld drill bits. It's a massive job to do right . Honestly I would hate to be you mate. I've just spent a week under my engine bay for some work that is only a fraction of the work involved in your repair.
_________________
Sydney, Australia.
66 Type 3 Fastback

[Clatter]

Lucky you to have the parts you need.

Time to start chemically stripping undercoating,
Drilling spot-welds,
Sandblasting,
Etc.

Square and Fastback are the same through all of that area.

IRS rear mount hangers aren't correct for '67.
Those are factory 69-up rear IRS hangers cut from a later car,
And shortened to fit up under an early swing 68-down body.
You can see they chopped the tops off of them to make them fit..
(Not that there's anything wrong with doing so, unless you are a purist of course).
Many like to use both the IRS hangers/bar in conjunction with the early sub w/horns in performance applications.
I like the call it the "150% mount", because it uses 50% more than either early or late.
The added bonus is it's full factory parts, and full rubber mount.

So, if you're building the car for power, you're already ahead.
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Max Welton]

[KTPhil]

Looks sorta like a money trying to whistle...

[Bobnotch]

[Max Welton]

Thanks guys. I just put up WTB for that section and sent out a couple of inquiries on some ads I see. Wish me luck!

Max
_________________
1967 Type-3 Fastback
Under the Knife https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=151582
Home Stretch https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=767836

[KTPhil]

GOOD LUCK!

[Clatter]

I have had decent luck removing undercoating with your typical 'Aircraft Stripper' FWIW.
It takes a few passes..

If you're going to restore to 100% OG,
Then that rear hanger mount will need repaired/replaced, obviously.
But,
If you're going to the later rear hanger, then that thing becomes redundant.
It's really just kind of a 'locater' because early cars have hours and a cradle like a bug.


Seems like you already have all of the parts you would want.

Straightening that mount and welding the crack would be easier than finding and installing a replacement, at least it seems from here.


My plan might be to take your Sawzall and remove sections from that Square;
Making sure to cut pieces that are for-surely bigger-enough to replace even surprises you find dissecting the Fasty.

Having the sections up on the bench for stripping and dis-assembly would make things easier no doubt.


-Also-
If those bar hanger brackets were hacked in like it looks they were,
You might just be cutting BIG sections of the rear of your Fasty away.


Funny how so much of your car was missing,
You thought there had to be some kind of difference!
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Clatter]

Also,

Have you tried a twisted-knot Mackage Attacker on that undercoating?


FWIW,
There's detailed pics of all those parts buried somewhere within the fetid bowels of my build thread..
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Max Welton]

Yeah, amazing what can hide under a pretty exterior.

I am in communication with a guy selling a 67 rear clip from a squareback which should have everything I need. That bracket is just spot-welded on.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=1917347

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=1917346

I am not going for a full correct reconstruction. If I can clean it up a bit I may keep the hangers, replace the bracket and use both systems. I will need to source a mustache bar and the assemblies that tie it to those side brackets. The 1776's case is a universal.

The 1776 going in is certainly no pavement-ripping torque monster, but I have an idea for adding a blower to it sometime in the future. A small one. You know, enough to counter the altitude.

Max
_________________
1967 Type-3 Fastback
Under the Knife https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=151582
Home Stretch https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=767836

[Max Welton]

[Clatter]

[Bobnotch]

[Clatter]

I drilled out all of those spot-welds and removed that bracket on my car.

(Of course you saw that in my build thread already. )


For all the work it will take to replace that bracket,
You could leave it in place, weld that crack up and grind it smooth 5 times,
IMHO.

Are you worried that it got bent out of shape, and you won't be able to figure out where it's supposed to be, or what shape it was originally?

The donut that goes in that bracket isn't exactly a precision fixture..

Most of the time they are wallered out pretty good,
And they aren't available new.

So much misalignment comes from sub-to-pan bushings, and the bellhousing pad mounts at the cradle,
That the rear donut gets all smashed crooked anyways.

Dunno if you read where Gene Berg wrote about the issue in his Blue Bible,
But this misalignment was common enough that fitting dual-carb kits often required adjustments to get the motor in the right location, even way back in the day.
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Max Welton]

When I ran Berg Special DCNFs on the square I needed more space for the filters, even with the shorty GB manifolds. Part of what I did was to add thickness to the subframe donuts to make the body stand a little higher. Performance carbs are just a tough fit in a type-3 as you know. I really hate cutting the deck / lid or just leaving the cover off entirely.

FI is the way to go.

Replacing that anti-torque bracket looks pretty simple. Drill out the spot welds and pop in a fresh bracket. I think Alex can get me one while he's looking for a lower left section that is solid.

I had to sleep last night so, no, I haven't read your build thread.

Max
_________________
1967 Type-3 Fastback
Under the Knife https://shoptalkforums.com/viewtopic.php?f=24&t=151582
Home Stretch https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=767836

[Max Welton]