Correctly Shifting an AutoStick

[Knave]

I've had my autostick for a little while now and as I'm driving I usually stick to shifting in this method

L ---> 0-20 MPH or Slow drive thru hills, Quick Takeoff on a hill
1st---> 0-40
2nd--> 40-70 unless the wind is blowing then i'm staying at 60 and nothing more


She's a early 68 and I do try to baby her so she lasts. But I've heard I should be shifting to 2nd past 35 and NEVER go over 40 in 1st (which I've hovered over a few times without noticing) she seems to drive fine, its not loud and she doesn't seem to struggle at that speed. I will say that I have to shift to neutral if I idle for more than a minute or she'll shut off on me. I really love this car and I want to make sure she lasts as long as possible. She gets her fluids and seals checked and changed regularly (If not too often) Any tips and recommendations are appreciated.

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I was made in the back of a beetle and almost born in the back of a camper.

[Cusser]

Drive like owner's manual states.

I remember starting off in 1st, going to 2nd, then cruising in 3rd.
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1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[jwold]

"I remember starting off in 1st, going to 2nd, then cruising in 3rd."

I used to drive my 68 AS ghia like this as well.

Your car shouldn't be shutting down after a minute or so of idling though. You have some kind of issue to deal with there...

[JonRich55]

The owners manual will suggest driving it in 1 and 2, with rarely using L. I feel the timing and vacuum advance settings are better suited to start in 1 and gradually shift to 2 about 40.

It can be run L 1 2 if you prefer without issue.

[mukluk]

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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[Tim Donahoe]

I once owned a 1968 auto-stick in the mid-seventies, and I never used the low gear. We used 1st in town, and at 53 mph on the freeway, we shifted to second.

Tim
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Let's do the Time Warp again!

Richard O'Brien

[Knave]

[Tom K.]

Hmm. 20 mph seems low for shifting into 2. That would be like shifting a manual into 4th at 20 mph. Is the torque converter still helping at that speed?
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'91 Vanagon Westfalia
'70 Beetle Convertible
'71 Super Beetle Semi-Automatic: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=714131&highlight=
'65 Ghia: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=762478&highlight=

[JonRich55]

Not being able to idle is most likely a vacuum leak issue. There are considerably more locations that can leak than a manual trans.

I would start by replacing all the vacuum lines within the Auto system. There are 3 large 12mm lines and one smaller 5mm line that goes to the carb. The 12mm ones can be hard to test and why I recommend just replacing them.

If you have the original carb, there is a good chance the throttle shaft leaks, very common. I would suggest sending it to Tim at Volksblitz to have him rebuild it back to factory specs.

There are a a number of other places to check, the Control Valve (not a usual place for a vacuum leak). The Vacuum servo (on the transmission) is a major source of leaks and pin holes often effect the idle more than trouble engaging the shifting mechanism.

Then you have the normal places for all aircooled engines. The carb leaking at the mount to the manifold, the rubber boots on the DP manifolds and the gaskets that are used between the manifold and the head (different styles for SP v DP).

[Knave]

[JonRich55]

What carb do you have on there now? Do you have the original one?

[mukluk]

[Gearfinger]

[mukluk]

[Gearfinger]

Being that I worked on those cars when new, at a VW dealer, my experience over the years in auto repair allows me to smile and nod politely at your advise...

[Knave]

[Nitramrebrab72]

Either clutch diaphram possibly slightly leaking more than active carb vacum or the vacum line it self at tick over. Letting the clutch out slowly and eventually stalling.

[Knave]

So i haven't been able to locate 2 CM diameter braided hoses like what it has now from stock, but i see that they are a bit mangled. i srpayed a little soapy water to see if it bubbled but it didn't. still plan on changing them as soon as i find a decent replacement. I'll post pics when i get the things off. last thing i need is for them to disintergrate as i'm taking them off and not have a replacement.

*EDIT*

I think i found some
https://germansupply.com/hoses-emissions-and-fuel/
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I was made in the back of a beetle and almost born in the back of a camper.

[heimlich]

If you set the idle speed to 800 RPM there is a small chance the car will shut down while idling. A mechanic here on TheSamba told me that autosticks need to idle at higher speeds due to this.

I just use one foot on the gas and one foot on the brake and if it starts to idle to slowly I press the gas a bit.
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[JonRich55]

Very true, 800 is too low for an Auto. The book suggests 850-950 I believe, and I shoot for 875-900.