AAZ oil and coolant sensor questions

[bene]

Hi All,

The AAZ head on my engine has the 3 sensors in the photo below:

Is this engine supposed to have the dual-oil sensor dynamic oil pressure warning system? There is a second sensor above the oil filter mounting, but it's not connected to anything.

My coolant temperature gauge is only working intermittently. I am going to crimp some new connectors on those two wires, since the current ones are rather chewed up, but is there anything else I should check? Is this actually a legit set up for AAZ coolant sensors to drive the Vanagon coolant cluster gauge? Why are there two of them?

Thanks for any advice.
_________________
1982 Vanagon Westfalia -- 1.9 TD AAZ-like

[Gnarlodious]

The two coolant sensors are the same part 049919501 that feeds both the dashboard gauge and the glow plug timer. The difference in their function, though slight, is in their location on the head. I would guess that the upper sender on the outlet flange to the radiator feels the hottest and that is why it feeds the gauge. So for most accurate readings the yellow/red wire should go on the outlet on the side of the head.
Coolant temp sender (circuit 32) on side of head outlet is yellow/red.
Glow plug heat sensor (circuit 14) screws into the heater outlet on back end of the head is black/yellow, (diagram says blue/white).
Oil pressure switch (circuit 29) on back of head is blue/black.
To test the gauge I used a needle to pierce the insulation on the yellow with red stripe wire that enters the instrument cluster (position 6) and ground it with the ignition on. That immediately caused the temp gauge to quickly head for the hot end of the scale and the red light to start blinking.

The AAZ oil sensor came on the engine so there is nothing to connect it to on the Vanagon. I put an oil temp sensor in there and a gauge in my cluster.
_________________
Vanagon ’83 diesel AAZ w/Giles injection, 5spd 4.57R&P+TBD and a '78 diesel Rabbit

[bene]

Thanks for the reply Gnarlodious. I think those circuit tracks you listed are for your '83 and not my '82, but it got me pointed in the right direction.

My early Bentley (only goes through 1987 MY) has:

- ENG TEMP SNDR (PRE-GLOW SYST) on track 17 with a blue/white wire
- COOL TEMP GAGE SNDR on track 34 with a blue/yellow wire

The photo above is shot looking down at the part of the head closest to the transmission, so the coolant sensors are located on the passenger side/driver side. When I first looked at the wires, it seemed like they were both green/yellow, but after some scrubbing, I think the upper wire in the photo (passenger side) is actually blue/yellow, so that should be the gauge.

That said I have no idea why the other wire is green/yellow. I'll see if I can trace that that wire.

The oil pressure is on track 31 with blue/black wiring, similar to the '83, and that seems to work okay. At least the red light comes on at ignition 1 and goes off a few seconds after the engine starts up.

I took your (and other's) advice about adding some gauges to monitor the engine, and used the pressure/temp parts of a Glowshift 3-in-1 gauge for the oiling system:

I have to finish up the wiring for that this week.
_________________
1982 Vanagon Westfalia -- 1.9 TD AAZ-like

[Gnarlodious]

Looks good but just a warning on that Glowshift oil temp sensor, it can bottom out and eventually crack the thin metal and start leaking oil out the potted wires. I measured with a depth gauge and used a thick crush washer under it so it seemed like it had clearance but it started leaking about a year later. I had to replace my sensor and put it in the taller tower which has more depth, so you may want to swap them proactively.

Also you might want to know that Glowshift has sold two types of temp sensors. The newer one uses industry standard “10k thermistor” resistance. The different sensors are not compatible with the display unit. If you do ever need to replace that sensor the type is marked on the hex surface in writing I can’t really read from the photo.
_________________
Vanagon ’83 diesel AAZ w/Giles injection, 5spd 4.57R&P+TBD and a '78 diesel Rabbit

[ALIKA T3]

I have to say, you have 2 different water temperature senders on this outlet.
Usually there is 1 sender 049919501 on each aluminum flange for the early diesels: white/ blue wire for the temp gauge on the heater outlet flange on the cylinder head (facing forward) and yellow/blue on the flange by the injectors. Often it has 2 yellow/blue wires on one spade crimp there.
_________________
Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[bene]

[Gnarlodious]

It is highly visible at night, “blingy” is a good word for it. The Glowshift was the only 3-in-one readout I could find, and I was able to squeeze it into my cluster front and foremost:
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=593363

It has worked fine for these years and was the cheapest solution for 3 readouts. Dust was getting inside the display through the stupid color switching knob so I chopped it off flush and sealed the hole with silicone. Of course I am in New Mexico where dust is ubiquitous, normal city dwellers would not have that problem. But it means I am stuck with the default blue color scheme. To the unfamiliar, you can use the knob to cycle through a range of conspicuously blingy colors like some kind of ricer racer. Who needs it.
_________________
Vanagon ’83 diesel AAZ w/Giles injection, 5spd 4.57R&P+TBD and a '78 diesel Rabbit

[Team WorldTour]

Hello all!
Reviving an old thread to discuss a similar problem.
I've recently changed the oil filter housing, and a new problem has cropped up. The old one I had was a bit taller and angled so the filter stuck out between 4 and 5 o'clock (where there was no space for it!). This then put the oil cooler at an angle, and stressed the whole system.

So, I installed an oil filter relocation kit. The adapter always dripped. It took quite a bit to work out the kinks in the system, but eventually, I got rid of most of them.
So now, in an effort to eliminate as much oil leaking as possible, I fitted a new oil filter housing. It is the correct part for the AAZ motor.
First problem- the custom oil feed to the turbo is based off the size of the banjo bolt from the last hosing. M8. The feed port on the OEM part is M6. OK, so I retapped it to the correct size. Then the bolt was too long, partially blocking an oil galley. Tried to trim the bold (different thread), messed it up, ended up having to order a new bolt in the correct length.
Now, we come to the current problem.
At idle, the oil light flickers. On high idle, it goes out (most of the time).

Link

Note, all of the attached sensors are still the same sensors as before.
At the moment, now that I have the correct oil filter housing, I'm looking for the correct filter so I can go back to original and remove the oil filter relocator from the system.
Also, the system no longer leaks (at the moment!)
_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

[Gnarlodious]

I seem to recall there are two different versions of the oil cooler mount. The later one has a restrictor component down inside the port for the turbo oil supply so it doesn’t use too much oil volume. It seems very likely you got the one without the restrictor and it is causing too much oil through your turbo and low pressure at idle.

In fact, I believe the two versions used slightly different banjo bolts. I had to deal with it once when I put the wrong one in and it popped out on the road.
_________________
Vanagon ’83 diesel AAZ w/Giles injection, 5spd 4.57R&P+TBD and a '78 diesel Rabbit

[Team WorldTour]

Any simple solutions that you can think of off the top of your head?
_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

[Gnarlodious]

I had to install the later part with the restrictor. Make sure it comes with the banjo bolt.

In fact, now I remember how this started. When I put together the AAZ I used an older oil cooler mount from a previous engine (I think the stock 1.6) because the AAZ mount was damaged in the trip from Germany. Driving cross country it leaked from the banjo bolt threads on the mount, and got worse. Lucky I did not burn up my newly installed AAZ. Upon inspection, the banjo bolt was the same size, and screwed in, but the threading was finer, meant to fit the newer mount since I was using the AAZ turbo oil tube. So it makes sense what you are going through.
_________________
Vanagon ’83 diesel AAZ w/Giles injection, 5spd 4.57R&P+TBD and a '78 diesel Rabbit

[ALIKA T3]

Likely you can retrofit the restrictor, it is sold separately too. It should be threaded in there.

I'm pretty sure it's M12x1.5 on the turbo banjo. If you had a nipple from factory it's likely M12x1.00. I prefer the nipple, screwing in and out of the aluminum mount takes its toll...
You can find converting nipples too, but in the US it's almost impossible at a hydraulic shop, Audi had them but part numbers have to be dug up....
_________________
Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[Team WorldTour]

Alika T3- I'm not in the States, I'm in Germany.
Gnarlodious- Thanks for that tip. I now have something to look for.

Anywho, I made this video yesterday, BEFORE I saw the two responses, so don't think I've ignored what you've both just posted!


Link

I reinstalled the original oil filter housing, but my custom made turbo feed line uses an M12 Banjo bolt instead of the original M8. I tapped the hole to fit the larger Banjo bolt, now I have this problem. Normally this happens every 4-5 months on its own, as the engine uses oil and I make hard stops. (Yes, one of the reasons for remounting the original parts was to further limit the loss of oil!).
_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

[Team WorldTour]

Ok, I'll put this out there in plain English: does anyone know where to find said Banjo Bolt?
...or part number?
Thanks!
Nico
_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

[Team WorldTour]

Bump.
_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

[Team WorldTour]

UPDATE-
The correct oil filter housing for an AAZ motor is Part Number 028 115 417.
It looks like I had Part # 053 115 417 A.
Problem is, I still have a light problem.....
Looks like I need to look at the pump now......
_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

[Team WorldTour]

So, good news/ bad news:
Dropped the oil pan, and swapped out the oil pump.
Light still burns.


Link



Plus, a bunch of other sadness;

Skid-plate Rust:

Swarf in the oil pan:

Fussy rare earth magnet from oil pan:

Found this little gem tucked away in the corner:

And where it came from:

And lastly, found this in the old pump screen:

_________________
1990 Feldjäger Syncro AAZ
Click to view image
H6 Subaru Engine Swap Thread
WV2ZZZ25ZFH094138(x)/ WV2YB0257LH057308(x)/ WV2ZZZ25ZLG113270/
"Where am I going? And what am I doing in this handbasket?" -Nicodemus Jordan
When All Else Fails: Lather, Rinse, Repeat!

[?Waldo?]

You might want to check the intermediate shaft bearings. They often disintegrate like that and cause low oil pressure. If you have the later AAZ timing belt tensioner with integral tension gauge, then you can blame that. If you have the earlier solid tensioner, you can blame yourself or whoever installed the belt for putting it on too tight and trashing the bearings. Injection pump shaft bushing might have been damaged also. You might want to track how far that crack in the block goes and maybe drill it off to stop it growing. You also might want to put sealant on that one bolt that was too long so it doesn't weep oil.

[Zeitgeist 13]

[Team WorldTour]