Point gap and timing.

[Frodge]

Hi folks. Two seasons ago I had a 205t rebuilt to like showroom condition. Points were set and then I dialed the timing in to tdc. (I check this every spring)When I checked my timing today with the engine warm, it seems as though it is about 1/16-1/32” retarded. Is this normal wear and to be expected? I just tweaked the timing and it’s perfect. Btw, the car would immediately bump start with a bump of the key even before I touched it today. I’m m assuming 1/32” is nothing really.

[sjbartnik]

Changing the points gap changes the timing.

As the points rubbing block wears down, the points gap will gradually decrease which will affect the timing setting.

You should check the points gap and timing every 3000 miles when you do your oil change service and adjust as necessary.
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1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650

[Frodge]

I guess my question is more of as the points wear does timing retard or advance. And typically how much are we talking about over 3000 miles.

[sjbartnik]

Over 3000 miles you shouldn't see much movement in the timing assuming a) your points rubbing block/distributor cam is lubricated properly with the correct points grease and b) you are using good quality points (which can be a big "if" these days)
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1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650

[Starbucket]

When they wear the timing will retard, as they open sooner and close sooner. Using a good distributor cam lube will slow the wear greatly. DO NOT use other greases as they can melt and sling off and cause problems. It's best to check the gap every oil change and put a drop of oil on the pad under the rotor.

[Frodge]

I have Bosch distributor grease. How much should I be putting on? Does grease go in each lobe?

Also. Let’s say I dial timing in perfectly with the car all warmed up. If I then checked the timing the next morning with the car cold, would it show retarded advanced or spot on? This is just my curiosity and wanting to understand things. As a car warms up, I would think that timing ever so slightly may advance as the heat ever so slightly takes up slack in moving parts.....

[heimlich]

Here's how I put grease on with the distributor off. I put a little dab on my finger and put this onto the cam of the distributor. I then rotate the cam using the other end of the distributor. I rotate one way and then the other way until it is fully covered. It should just be a light film All the excess will get picked up and pile behind the plastic rubbing block.

On your 205T make sure the clip is on top of the part the points slide down.
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[Frodge]

Thanks guys. Is it really necessary to remove the distributor every time you change points?

[Pruneman99]

[heimlich]

You'll want to clean the old grease off every time before you put new grease on. All of that old grease traps particles.
_________________
www.vwnos.com [email protected]
Classic Brands. Classic Quality.
Not all parts are made the same. NOS OE/OEM parts made mainly in West Germany, Early Germany, and Early Brazil are where VW produced the best quality parts and best fitting products.
5% Off your order with coupon code: 5%OFF
Restored Distributors Available (<--Click here)

[sjbartnik]

You don’t need to remove the distributor to change points, but it does help to have a magnetic screwdriver to deal with the points hold-down screw.
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1965 Volkswagen 1500 Variant S
2000 Kawasaki W650

[Zundfolge1432]

I’ve found an easier way using this special screwdriver. It was made for holding screws much more securely than a magnet, works well even upside down for changing generator brushes. Probably more at home in small electrical repair technicians toolbox but I became aware of this watching people do instrument repair. The one in this pic is Craftsman but all the higher end tool companies offered them. It’s worth it’s weight and once you see it in action you won’t go back. I also remove distributor to change points because it takes just a second plus I’d rather work indoor comfortable environment rather than fumbling hunched over in driveway.

So here it is with aluminum body and a handy magnet in the opposite end. It clips to your pocket alongside your 6 inch machinists scale and penlight

Here it’s holding the screw tightly, easy to activate using spring pressure but it’s stronger than a magnet.

Here’s the business end

[Frodge]

What is that tool called? I want to buy one....

[Zundfolge1432]

Small screw holder thingy , couldn’t help it but they come in larger sizes too.

[Q-Dog]

Screw-holding screwdriver? Craftsman used to make a decent one. They pop up on ebay regularly.
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Brian

'69 Dune Buggy
'69 Beetle Convertible
'70 Beetle

[74 Thing]

https://www.amazon.com/Ullman-2-Aluminum-Starter-P...AX5S840S70

[ashman40]

[tasb]

[Xevin]

Frodge, I might get teased for doing this because points are cheap but I use a points file to smooth the surface area before making adjustments. It’s the way I was taught when I do my yearly tune up and inspection. I only drive an average of 2500 miles a year on each bus. This also gets me examining the rubbing block as well. Some newer points are hit and miss so I like to prolong the life of known good ones. If you do replace points and condenser annually like some of my friends. The Napa Echlin brand have been consistently good for people.

Points file

https://www.napaonline.com/en/p/SER2153
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Keep on Busin'

[tasb]