Next stroker... Not!

[pyrOman]

Finally got around to taking the “shakalaka” apart. So far there’s no clear tell tale sign as to why it was shakalaking but maybe as I get to tear it apart more, I might find something. Anyway, the original idea for this motor was to rebuild it and pass it on but now I’m more inclined to keep it. This “mystery” motor had run good even with the banging noise. Now upon close inspection of the case, it has bushed lifter bores and aside from a bent pushrod tube it didn’t leak! So I’ll be building me yet another 1800 stroker using it as a good base!

The heads look okay.

Had a dished cam.

The pistons are dished too and had shims on the cylinders.

The bearings showed some serious wear though.

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Some people are so busy being clever they don't have time enough to be wise.

[turbo_g]

That motor got The Hatch all the way to BBB (Havasu) and all the way to Twin Lakes (Bridgeport CA) from Orange County.

Noisy as hell, but did not leak, and ran pretty strong. That's AFTER it sat on the side of my house, for 5+ years under a picnic table cloth.

These little motors are amazing.

Those bearings look terrible.
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Turbo_g
66 TinTop Westy SO42
63 Sub-hatch Westy SO33
SV2s Member #425
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"Three out of four voices in my head say 'Go for it'."

[srfndoc]

Sometimes those mystery motors just keep on chugging....
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RPM=(MPH*336* (R&P*4th*1.26))/Tire Diameter in inches

[pyrOman]

After cleaning it up, I found the “source” of the shakalaka noise...

Apparently this motor had similar issues before it’s last rebuild.

The rebuild was based on a universal case or a type 3 one. Here’s a riveted tag from whatever place did it...

Anybody familiar with this kind of stuff done by a rebuilder?

Brass inserts and only on the bottom studs?

Also, notice the case half differing numbers!?!

The heads have obviously gotten some work done. But at least weren’t leaking and are not cracked!

I think the heads were shaved some and that’s why the motor required shims on the cylinders.
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Some people are so busy being clever they don't have time enough to be wise.

[Teeroy]

The left and right side casting numbers dont always match, should be a hand stamped number on both halves by the bellhousing that are supposed to match though
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ARR #3
www.autosportsnorthwest.org

[Danwvw]

Your engine looks almost like you could just clean it up and put new bearings and seals in and put it back together for more miles. How does the crank look sometimes they can just be hand polished.
I have not seen brass cylinder stud inserts. I would think steel inserts would be better.
Generally bronze lifter bores are a good Idea to repair worn lifter bores. Check them that the lifters don't have any wobble.

Case looks pretty good. If the thrust bearing the #1 main at the flywheel bearing fits tight then it likely won't need an align bore. Check the case for fretting where it's main journals meet. You can plastigauge to check that it will hold the main bearings tight still. I would just grind out that bad spot above that cylinder opening inside.
Heads will clean up nice if soaked in (super clean) overnight. Then wire brush in a drill to remove the remaining carbon in the combustion chambers. Then if there are cracks in the heads at the spark plug or valves or if the spark plug threads are questionable I would replace the heads. You will need to remove the valves to see how much play they have in the guides. A good vw machinist has a tool that can knurl valve guides for another life if need be but if too worn they should be replaced. Keep the lifters matched to the cam lobes otherwise replace the lifters with new ones
Figure out for sure what was banging. I would think this would have quit banging after a while.
But This Piston would not quit bangging if it was hitting the head there. Stock lifters are inexpensive.

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1960 Beetle And 1679cc DP W-100 & Dual Zeniths!

[pyrOman]

Thanks!

Heads are looking really good for a “questionable” engine. I do have a new stroker crank that will go in it as well as a special grind cam. So next is an order for stroker pistons, connecting rods, lifters and bearings.

On that note, though I did measure the case already, what do you make out of the markings on the existing bearings?

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Some people are so busy being clever they don't have time enough to be wise.

[Braukuche]

So the rods were hitting the case?? What was causing the noise?
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Go Reds! Smash state!

Retirement is here!
1956 Ghia
1959 SO-23 Westfalia
1960 double cab
1960 Baja Bug
1963 stretched double cab
1962 Golde sunroof Ghia
1963 356 B coupe
1963 Notchback
1967 21 window less rusty now

[pyrOman]

[Bulli Klinik]

[mandraks]

[pyrOman]

Now I am really interested in finding out exactly who rebuilt this motor!

Not to claim anything since I’m sure is way past any kind of warranty, but I keep finding stuff done to it that seems very odd but has run so damn good!


So, this morning in measuring the case and crank to order a set of bearings I found this!?!

Bearings come in a specific set of dimensions for standard (stock or not machined) and machined to set cuts. Well, the case has been cut for the thrust journal to ONLY 0.75mm instead of the normal 1.00mm underside cut. So the rebuilder slapped a 0.75mm shim on a bearing with a standard size of 22.00mm! Who does that?
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Some people are so busy being clever they don't have time enough to be wise.

[BarryL]

Hey Pyro, did you check the name of this garage shop?

https://www.hagerty.com/articles-videos/articles/2...age-full/4

[pyrOman]

But wait, there’s more! Found this bit of debris right in the oil hole of the small bearing!

Here’s the markings on the crank...

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Some people are so busy being clever they don't have time enough to be wise.

[pyrOman]