Not cranking after turning the key

[CheapBusForSale]

No I haven't tried hot-wiring it yet CrRusty and not sure how to do that but I'll look into it. And I don't know if I made any progress but yesterday I changed the 009 distributor with another one and for one Split Second it actually sounded like it wanted to start but didn't if that tells you anything?

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Update to what I posted above. Today, just out of curiosity, I installed the old points and condenser that came with this engine when I originally bought it, and it actually kind of started for a moment like putt putt putt putt putt putt putt but wouldn't stay running, so I ordered another brand new set of points and condenser ( even though I've done this before but might have been given defective parts from AutoZone, which wouldn't be the first time) and will let you know if that helps.......?
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[CheapBusForSale]

So I made some real progress! as I found a parts house that had the points and condenser and after installing them the engine is now starting but not very easily and it's not staying running unless I keep Feathering the gas pedal. so I made this vid (link below) to see what you think? Could I have the timing slightly off even though I have it set at tdc?
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=O-_s7xi75-o
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[Wildthings]

If you plucked an 009 into the case without having to rotate the wires to make it run, I would say your firing order is off. When replacing most other distributors with an 009 it is usually necessary to rotate the wires in the cap. From the sound of your engine, you may now have two wires installed correctly and two crossed.

[CheapBusForSale]

So you think the #1 wire that's pointing at 7 o'clock should be where the # 3 wire is? Thanks
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[Wildthings]

Can't say from a distance. Watch the valves on #3 to see when they are at overlap as that will place #1 at TDC compression. Then check the other wires are in the proper order 1-4-3-2 going clockwise around the cap.

[CheapBusForSale]

Yeah that's how I found TDC with the #3 valve's overlapping then double checked it by inserting a straw into the #1 spark plug hole and rotating the engine by hand until the straw reached its highest point, which left the timing mark on the pully at 0. And I just double-checked it and have the plugs clockwise 1 4 3 2 which makes me wonder if I should set the timing at like 7.5 degrees BTDC?


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Update to what I wrote above. I tried setting it to 7.5 then 10 degrees BTDC this morning but that didn't help.
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[CheapBusForSale]

So today it's not starting at all again, and I removed the jets from the carb and cleaned them and tried a different set of plug wires as I don't know what else to do, but that didn't help.
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[tasb]

The 009 requires some static advance of between 7 and 10 degrees. At TDC your timing is retarded quite a bit. You haven't shared what distributor is currently installed.
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Roads Scholar &
1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse

[CheapBusForSale]

Sorry I forgot to mention that . And Im Not sure what brand but I've tried two distributors which both are stamped on the sides 0231178009 and are fully mechanical I believe with no vacuum advance. Thanks
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[CheapBusForSale]

So after trying everything in the book with no results I pulled the carburetor (which is a Weber 32/36) out and took it apart to clean all the jets, which I had already done to the ones outside the carb I can get to but now cleaned all the inner ones and seem to have found two of them somewhat clogged, which might be my big problem with getting it started and running correctly when it does start. So after cleaning and blowing them out I put the carb back together but found that my float wasn't adjusted right as the carb overflowned with gas once I put it in the bus, so after taking it back out again and adjusting the float the carb is still slightly dripping gas down the throat when I turn the key on for the electric fuel pump without cranking it. So my question is now, should it be slightly dripping with the key on, like just to start the bus or do you think I need to change the float needle valve?

Thanks again for being so patient with the idiot John Muir wrote about in his book
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[Wildthings]

The needle should not pass any fuel once the bowl is full and should never drip.

[CheapBusForSale]

Yeah thanks Wildthing as that's what I kind of thought and I've been messing with the float but can't seem to get the needle valve to stop flowing gas passed it and I have followed some instructions I read about how high it should be but no luck, so I'm assuming the needle valve is bad and I'm going to order a new rebuild kit that comes with a new needle valve and seat and hope that works.........?
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[CheapBusForSale]

To update my status. I rebuilt the carburetor and put it back on but then after doing that I was back to my original problem of it not cranking, which I fixed the same way I did before bye removing the cables on the starter and reinstalling them. So now that it's cranking it is starting easier but now I'm back to another problem I was having I thought I fixed which is the fuel pump won't stop running even with the key in the off which I'm pretty sure I have hooked up correctly to the 15 side of the coil along with the ignition wire and choke wire with the green distributor wire the on the other side, so you might be right about it being a faulty ignition switch, but I don't know as it's like I take one step forward and then two steps back.
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[Wildthings]

[CheapBusForSale]

Yeah I actually did replace the ignition switch that cost me a hundred bucks when I bought the bus, but with a used one I'd hate to replace again.
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[Wildthings]

[CheapBusForSale]

Yeah I'm trying to figure out now what exactly I should be replacing? Just this part? Thanks
https://www2.cip1.com/ProductDetails.asp?ProductCode=VWC%2D111%2D905%2D865%2DLGR
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[Wildthings]

[mikedjames]

One thing is that even when it is all setup right, if you have overdone the stamping on the gas pedal when trying to start it , it will flood regardless of the carburettor jetting etc.

Then it will not run until you crank out the excess gas from the manifold, or let it evaporate. This might need 30 seconds of cranking, or just walking away for half an hour, and trying again.

The Weber 32/36 is notorious for a leaking needle valve problem. If you have the wrong aftermarket fuel pump it could be causing the needle valve to leak anyway.

I have a T1 engine with that carburettor, and in 77000 miles it has worn out three fuel metering valves, and on a bad day it will not start because of flooding after pumping the throttle while playing with the linkage in the engine bay.

It has also often had issues with dirt in the idle jets, the holes are small, and the dirt comes from the fuel hoses dropping tiny fragments as they are pushed on and removed - the result is on a few occasions having to clean out the jets again immediately after taking the carburettor off completely to clean it..
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Ancient vehicles and vessels

1974 VW T2 : Devon Eurovette camper with 1641 DP T1 engine, Progressive carb, full flow oil cooler, EDIS crank timed ignition.
Engine 1: 40k miles (rocker shaft clip fell off), Engine 2: 30k miles (rebuild, dropped valve). Engine 3: a JK Preservation Parts "new" engine, aluminium case: 26k miles: new top end.
Gearbox rebuild 2021 by Bears.

1979 Westerly GK24 24 foot racer/cruiser yacht Forethought of Gosport.
1973 wooden Pacer sailing dinghy

[CheapBusForSale]

Yeah it starts right up now without even pumping the gas and I put a new needle valve in when I rebuilt it which stopped it from continually flowing and overflowing the bowl, and I just figured out that the reason the fuel pump isn't shutting off is because I'm getting constant power from the ignition wire to the coil which also has the fuel pump connected to it, so I guess it must be a faulty ignition switch.
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