Just bought a 72 Super

[r6kid]

I have no welding equipment or skill for that matter. But if I did...

I'm going to cut two sides off the bolt head and get a wrench on it. After I soak it with penetrating oil again and wire brush the visible threads. I'm confident I'll at least get something going. Ha!

[Buggeee]

[r6kid]

Still working! I got the head off the tow bar bolt that was slowing me down. I'll have a bolt extractor tool coming my way today to get the rest of the threaded portion out.

Next, my brother and I started removing all the bolts holding engine to tranny. There was only three. (As you look at the engine, the top left bolt, opposite the one that goes through the starter.) was not there. And there were no bolts holding the engine to the body. So, this engine is being held in place by three bolts. We removed the exhaust for better clearance and got the top and bottom right side bolts out leaving bottom left. And wouldn't you know it...I have no wrenches, ratchets, etc that will move down there. So, today my brother is bringing his right angle adapter. It seems like the theme of this car is "The Last Bolt".

On another note, we had to cut the pitman arm. I'm all out of vendors. I have no idea who to contact to find a freaking pitman arm. Can anyone help me!!!

[r6kid]

I found what I was looking for. Interstate Wrecking in Lake Elsinore, CA was able to assist.

Today I went to Auto Zone and rented a pickle fork set and got the tie rods completely disassembled. Looks like I'll need a new center tie rod but the left and right appear to be in good shape. So, back to JBugs for another order. ($500 dollars today alone!) New center tie rod and all new tie rod ends on the way!

I also order a complete set of polyurethane bushings for front suspension. And a bunch of other things.

Once I send the frame off to the media blasters I have to clean out the garage and do a full inventory of the $8000+ new parts I have ready to go back on the frame after after POR-15 paint.

[Rome]

[r6kid]

Thanks Rome! We couldn't get a bite with any wrench. Socket did the job pretty quick. We just needed a right angle adapter to fit in there.

While I was waiting for brother with tools I went and rented a pickle fork set and disassembled the steering. Those tie rod ends needed some "massaging". Now I'm trying to get the shift coupler off the steering shaft so I can remove the shaft. After that, just little things to remove and off to the soda blasters next weekend. (They're booked all week.)

In the meantime, I'm gonna wire wheel everything to remove what I can before taking it all to the shop. Besides, I'm waiting on parts.

[r6kid]

I dropped off the frame and several steering components at the media blaster's shop last week. Brought it all home yesterday. It's amazing the pinholes you find once all the rust and paint is gone. Just minor little guys on the pans. I have a buddy coming over this weekend to spot weld all the little holes.
I purchased the POR-15 rust treatment 3 part kit. Not cheap but definitely worth it. Once all the spot welds are done I will start the process of coating the entire frame and steering. I purchased a full polyurethane steering bushing kit that will replace all the rubber bushings. My guess is after POR-15 and polyurethane bushings, that shit's gonna last forever!

[kpf]

[r6kid]

Yeah kpf, I assume the previous owner (or the previous previous owner) changed the pans and riveted them. Not what I would have done. But, they're in great shape and square so they're staying on!

[r6kid]

Hey guys! It's been quite a while since I posted. I just finished up some frame work so I got some pics to share with you all.
As a recap, I had the frame and all ancillary parts sandblasted a few months back. I have just recently been able to get back to work on the car. Just this morning I was able to finish the last two coats of POR15 on the frame and the last few parts. The prep process took some work. I had to tear my wife away from her work a few times to help me flip the frame a few times. But everything is looking good to go after a good degreasing and metal prep. All steering and suspension parts have been coated twice as well.
I took some time to paint the master cylinder and disk brake calipers. They turned out really nice!
I ordered some parts and then realized there's other parts I still need to order that apparently didn't get written down when I was making my list of "rest of shit needed for frame assembly". No worries though. I'm gonna be out of town for about two weeks so I have time to order and they'll be in when I get home. Otherwise, I have damn near everything I need, brand new (to include FULL new urethane bushing kit for steering and suspension parts), to begin reassembly. There's got to be about $6-7k of parts ready to go on. Kind of exciting!
I still have to order my new transaxle assembly. I know I'm gonna pay some money here because I'm looking for a prostreet transmission that will handle 350hp. That ain't gonna be cheap!
Also, I ran into a little issue. Some advice would be helpful. When I removed the trailing arms I was being as gently as possible so that I don't disturb the torsion bars. The passenger side torsion bar came unseated from the housing with no chance of otherwise keeping it seated. Now, I have no idea how to put it back together and hope I am at least somewhat close to whatever the setting was previously. Anyone got any thoughts on this they can share?

[r6kid]

I stayed away from home an extra week. So In that time I called the good folks at Topline in California to see if they had mounting hardware for the pedal assembly and master cylinder as well as the brake pedal pushrod and clevis. Like last time, they came through for me and I got them on order. Hopefully they'll be waiting for me when I get home this weekend so I can pick up where I left off.
also, I ordered a new pedal assembly from Cool Rydes Customs. These pedals look awesome! As soon as they came in I ordered a matching shifter that will compliment the intended paint for the car. Then I asked them if they had any plans on doing an emergency brake assembly so I can keep the theme going in the cabin. They said they are busy on a prototype now and should have something on the market early 2021. That's exciting news for me!

[Buggeee]

That shifter is really cool
_________________
1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[joey1320]

Great work.


Cool toolbox too.
_________________
**1971 Super Project
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0

[r6kid]

Buggee, that shifter is pretty cool. And if you go to their site and read the description, it's not just cool looks. They reduced a lot of slop in between shifts so I'm really anxious to get to work on it.

[r6kid]

[r6kid]

I have been in talks recently with a local VW builder. This was a huge breakthrough for me considering every other vendor or builder is going to gravitate towards Southern California. That makes shipping costs for anything insane since I live in Maryland.
This guy gave me a bunch of things to think about when considering transaxles. Since I'm looking to go big big power with the engine I need to think big big support from the trans. We're discussing the options that will best suit my needs and I'm beginning to learn more about transmissions that I never wanted to know.
so in my quest for knowledge I always reach out to the folks here. This guy mentioned that to support up to or exceeding 300hp there's several considerations with the trans. I informed him I just bought and received new stock stub axles and he said that won't work. He mentioned that the CV for this trans build will have to be bus CV's and stub axles to match but that I have zero modifications to do on my trailing arm or bushings or bearings or sleeves. That's a huge relief. All I have to get rid of is the new stub axles.
None of this is really a shock to me. I knew I'd be learning a lot on the way. I was hopeful that I could get this frame together relatively quick but at the same time I'm ok with minor delays. A fresh built transaxle will take this guy about 4-5 weeks which is damn near standard. I like this guy more than anyone else I've talked to so far because he laughed when he heard every other builder I've spoken to is quoting $5000 or more.
You guys' thoughts? suggestions?

[AutoMechanic]

Awesome

[r6kid]

I've been stagnant for several weeks. I ordered master cylinder mounting hardware from a junkyard out in California. The shipping took about 10 days. That was a long wait. Only to find out that they didn't include the sleeves required for mounting said master cylinder. The last person to mount the master cylinder on my car obviously didn't use those spacers because the firewall is pushed in on one side aa little bit. So, I went to my go-to, JBugs and they didn't have the set. I went to cip1 and YAHTZEE! I ordered the set and then received an email that it'll take about two weeks to ship since they are moving to a new warehouse. Imagine my damn luck! So I wait...
Meanwhile, I placed a different order with JBugs and my shipping is taking absolutely forever! Every day this week I get an update on my tracking number. The package should have been here Monday. Alas, here it is Saturday and I have a feeling it'll finally show up.
While I spent my free time conducting further ideation I took a long hard look at the Universal (remember that word) Type 1 Shift Shaft I ordered from JBugs that cost me an extra $30 shipping because it's oversized. Well, it is oversized. By about a foot! the end that connects to the transmission is an open end. I wasn't expecting to have to make modifications.
I still have the original shift shaft. I bought a replacement (and all associated parts) to ensure smooth shifting. The original is not bent at all and appears to be in good condition. will it make a difference one way or another if I just clean up the old and reuse it or will a brand new shaft make a noticeable difference?

[Cusser]

You can make your own spacers. The dimensions "might be"
1.088", i.d. 0.315"

If your dimension is smaller than that because of poor repair earlier, you might need to cut any spacers shorter.

Did you try to see/fish out any spacers that might have fallen down, like with a magnet on a flex?
_________________
1970 VW (owned since 1972) and 1971 VW Convertible (owned since 1976), second owner of each. The '71 now has the 1835 engine, swapped from the '70. Second owner of each. 1988 Mazda B2200 truck, 1998 Frontier, 2014 Yukon, 2004 Frontier King Cab. All manual transmission except for the Yukon. http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335294 http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_page.php?pic_id=335297

[r6kid]