What to do with a new-to-you Type 2

[jtauxe]

I recently promised to post a list that I have been working on...
[Edited 30 Jul 2019.]

From my experience in refurbishing 17 Type 2s (campers, transporters, and trucks) over the last 35+ years, I have found that there is generally a lot of deferred maintenance needed on most any bus that you might buy. Here is my list of stuff to do to make your bus great. I acknowledge that it could take years to check off all these items...

WHAT TO DO FOR A NEW-TO-YOU VW BAYWINDOW BUS

A practical checklist of systems to check and service to make your bus safe to drive, and then some

This list assumes that the bus you have found suffers from deferred maintenance. Even if you have had a bus for a long time, this is a useful checklist to consult to make sure you have done everything that you should in order to keep your bus safe and reliable.

MAKE IT SAFE TO MOVE (e.g. putting it on a trailer)

The bus has to be able to roll and not roll, as desired.

• Inspect your tires: Are they the correct size and rating? Do they need replacing because of excessive wear or age?
• Check the emergency brake to make sure it holds the bus firmly.

MAKE IT SAFE TO DRIVE

If the bus has been sitting for a long time,

• drain gas; inspect drained gas for crud
• inspect fuel filter for crud
• replace fuel filler neck, all vapor lines, and all fuel lines (this requires access to the tank)
• install fresh fuel filter, and move it out of the engine compartment and upstream of the pump
• rinse tank with some fresh gas, slosh around, and drain
• inspect fresh gas and fuel filter for crud
• plan on removing the gas tank and giving it a full inspection, even if apparently clean
• consider removing/cleaning/rebuilding carburetor(s), as applicable
• inspect (better yet, just replace) all vacuum lines
• inspect alternator/generator belt
• inspect foam engine compartment seal
• clean oil screen (torque bolt to only 9 ft-lb!), change oil and filter; inspect condition of oil
• service distributor; set point gap
• inspect spark plugs and wires
• add a little oil to each cylinder while each plug is out
• turn engine over by hand several times to distribute oil in pistons
• check TDC mark to verify top dead center—mark the pulley if needed
• determine if you have hydraulic or solid lifters
• adjust valves
• adjust belt tension
• check end play
• inspect/charge battery
• inspect thermostat for proper connection to engine cooling flaps—test with heat gun and infrared thermometer “gun”
• inspect all metal, especially structural pieces, for integrity. Don't be gingerly about it, either. Poke at those sketchy spots as if your life depended on it.

You may now attempt to start the bus. Then you can
• do a compression test
• adjust timing and dwell

But there is more work to do before driving the bus!

• remove/inspect/replace/regrease CV joints
• reinstall CV joints, with new special dished serrated washers and 12-pint socket screws
• top up or replace transaxle oil
• top up or replace steering box oil
• inspect the steering coupler disc
• inspect/adjust steering and front end play
• lubricate front end
• inspect ball joints and boots; replace if necessary
• inspect the exhaust system
• inspect the heat exchangers and hoses
• inspect washer fluid tank and hoses

Consider the brake system:
• inspect metal brake lines—look for leaks, incipient cracks, or wear at the points of penetration through sheet metal where grommets should be intact
• inspect (or better yet, just replace) rubber brake hoses for leaks and cracks, but know that they may be goopy inside and not show signs on the outside—maybe just replace them if you don’t know how old they are
• lubricate the drum brake adjusting stars
• check the thickness of the drum brake shoes
• replace any missing inspection port covers and brake bleeding port covers
• adjust the parking/emergency brake, but realize that if the shoes are thin it is normal that the handbrake will pull out further than it would if the shoes are new
• inspect front brake pads for thickness
• bleed the brakes all around

Transaxle:
• inspect for leaks
• check fluid level and top off if necessary
• inspect the shift linkage, from shifter knob to transaxle
• evaluate function while driving

Steering box:
• inspect for leaks
• check fluid level and top off if necessary

Control cables: inspect the following cables for wear, fraying, and smooth operation, and buy spares regardless:
• parking brake
• accelerator
• clutch
• heater controls

Charging system:
• battery
• alternator
• voltage regulator

Instruments:
• Check instrument functions:
o alternator/charging light
o oil pressure light
o fuel gauge
o speedometer
o odometer
• Check controls:
o wiper switch
o turn signal switch
o headlight switch
o hazard light switch

Miscellaneous:
• check the ignition switch for proper operation
• check horn function
• replace wiper blades
• repack wheel bearings
• check all lights for correct function
• replace missing lens seals
• check seat belts for wear and age (original belts may look cool, but may not perform when you need them to)
• check all rear seats and clamps attaching them to the floor
• check bumpers and their secure attachment to the vehicle
• check front splash pan and its secure attachment

Bus is now safe to drive!

Now on to the cosmetics and quality of life issues…

Interior inspections:
• front air duct drain in front of the kick panels
• air duct control levers
• glove box
• pedals
• hand brake
• steering wheel
• heat ducting
• interior lights
• seats and their mounting
• mirrors: glass and mounting
• doors and windows:
o service door lock mechanisms by removing them from the doors and cleaning and lubricating them
o get all locks onto one key, and determine the key code
o service (clean and lubricate) the window regulators
o lubricate hinges
o inspect wing windows
o service sliding door, if you have one
o inspect all door and hatch seals
o inspect front door vapor barriers
o door interior light switches
o inspect all glass and rubber seals
• upholstery: inspect and repair or replace as it suits you
o interior panels
o headliner
o rubber mats
o carpet

Recommended upgrades:
• retractable seat belts
• head rests if you have 1973 or later
• VW scissors jack
• lights in the engine compartment
• electric window washer fluid pump
• battery knife switch for easy disconnect
• H4 headlights
• fuel pump shut-off relay (non FI)
• Vanagon seats with arm rests (if you have a 1976 ½ or later bus)

Some upgrades others have done:
• power steering
• power door locks

There. That ought to keep you busy for awhile.
_________________
John
"Travelling in a fried-out Kombi, on a hippie trail, head full of zombie..." - Colin Hay and Ron Strykert
http://vw.tauxe.net
1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
1979 Champagne Sunroof, 1974 Westfalia Automatic, 1979 Transporter, 1972 Sportsmobile, 1973 Transporter Wild Westerner, 1974 Westfalia parts bus, 1975 Mexican single cab *FOR SALE*, 1978 Irish 4-door double cab RHD

[Angus II]

Dude, what are you talking about?.
The previous owner said it was running and driving fine about 10 years ago, when he parked it.... I just want to drive the bus, man.
And, what is all that technical stuff you were talking about anyway?. Doesn't it have a check engine light?

[timvw7476]

i like checking
1. fuellines & then I also do
2. fuellines & then there's the final one.
3.return fuel lines

[ccpalmer]

[bigdaveb]

Jtauxe,

I may have missed it on your list, but it would be a very good idea to inspect and replace the steering coupler as needed (part # 211415417). In the last three buses that I've checked out, they were badly cracked and rotted. A genuine VW replacement is preferable. Refer to the following post:

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=435679&highlight=steering+coupling+replace

[jtauxe]

Good one!

• inspect the steering coupler disc

I hope that this thread will prompt others to add their own observations, as you have done.
_________________
John
"Travelling in a fried-out Kombi, on a hippie trail, head full of zombie..." - Colin Hay and Ron Strykert
http://vw.tauxe.net
1969 Transporter, 1971 Westfalia, 1976, 1977, 1976, 1977, 1971, 1973, 1977 Westfalias,
1979 Champagne Sunroof, 1974 Westfalia Automatic, 1979 Transporter, 1972 Sportsmobile, 1973 Transporter Wild Westerner, 1974 Westfalia parts bus, 1975 Mexican single cab *FOR SALE*, 1978 Irish 4-door double cab RHD

[Abscate]

Non desert areas

Integrity of front axle supports between the axle tubes.

Dig in at them with an ice pick. Really. You aren’t doing any more damage, just finding out what axle you don’t have,
_________________
.ssS!

[TomWesty]

[jtauxe]

[thewalrus]

[jtauxe]

[Mikehoe7]

[Bluebird77]

hey thanks!
That is a great list. Made me feel a bit dizzy but in a good way..
I appreciate the help!
_________________
1977 Sage Green Westfalia
"Bluebird"

[Globespotter]

Man I miss the 70's.

1. Does it start?
2. Does it run?
3. Does it move?
4. Does it stop?

Good to go.
_________________
1977 Westfalia - October 2015 - Current
1971 Super Beetle - May 2012 - Current
1979 Westfalia - 1986-1991
1971 Super Beetle - 1977-1980

1971 SB Survivor Story: https://globespotter.com/
Road Trip Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=511800&highlight=
My 77 Westy Thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=647114&highlight=

http://vw-mplate.com/mcode.php?lang=EN&id=30990
https://vw-type2-id.xyz/mplate/72067382

[dodger tom]

As a suggested upgrade I'd add third brake light. Even later T2's with big lenses have only small brake lights, low down. Having people see you are stopping can be a great help.
_________________
1978 Champaign Edition 2 Westfalia
Would never find the time to keep up another classic air-cooled.

[Sash_Bay]

Holy Crap. Get in it, turn the key, and figure it out as you rolling.

[ToolBox]