Jimmy V’s 54 Oval Project

[VW_Jimbo]

To continue what happened......

Decided to clean out the fork and run a new conduit. Here’s the fork all cleaned up.

I then reviewed the approach on removing the knob end of the heater cables. Here it is on the inside of the tunnel. Looks like one tack weld.

At the top of the tunnel, the riser, or the tube that these conduits enter, is protruding up about 2 1/2” inches, with a fine thread for the heater knob to thread down onto. Here it is on the outside of the tunnel. It has a nice weld bead around 180 degrees, opposite the tack weld on the interior side of the tunnel.

And a few more shots of the interior connection to the tunnel.

Before removing the riser, I measured the angle of the remaining segment of the cable conduits.

The riser descend at a 65 degree angle towards the rear of the car.

So, first up was grinding the interior tack weld off of the riser. Here’s the close up of the sole interior weld.

Here is the non welded interior side.

The interior ground down.

Exterior ground down.

Stuck a 1/2” extension that was 12” long to help wiggle it till the remaining weld connections let go.

Broke it, see that crack!

Where did it go?

Here it is! With what is left of the old conduits.

Now, where did I put that box of stainless steel tubing I purchased several months ago? Ah, found it, in back of the front seats! Opened it up and look at what I got here! My tubing, all ready to go!

And the sheet with the suppliers name on it, just in case someone else travels down this road! Your welcome!

Needed to double check the new one.

To the old rust segment.

Figuring the rust is two hundredths of an inch thick!

Started in on the rear connection by grinding the weld holding the tube where it exits the fork.

Had to wiggle it to break the remnant weld. Stuck my Awl down in there, broke the weld and the tip off of my Awl!

And after they were broke. I pulled out the remnant.

It was about a foot long.

Then I threaded in the new tubing.

Used a radiator hose tool to locate and guide the new tube through the fork hole.

Here is the tube showing itself in the cut out.

And at the control tube end. Perfect!

Pulled it out and made another one, for the other side. Here they are.

Then stuck the passenger side tube into the tunnel, as it was, last time one was intact and present. No easy feat!

Then onto the driver’s side!
Ground the weld at the fork end and pulled out the remnant.

Flipped the pan over and threaded the drivers side into place.

And here it is sticking out of the fork!

And through the tunnel to the control knob hole.

There they are sticking out of the control knob tube hole. But they are pointing in different directions and, fortunately, too long.

So, I wire tied the 2 tubes together and started bending them into the shape they need to be.

After some time, working in a cramped spot and pushing, pulling and bending. I got it! Still too long (by design) but in perfect alignment, from what I know.

Then pulled it out of the tunnel, so that they can be cut to length.

Measured, marked.

And cut! Deburred and ready!

Need to get the heater tube riser ready for its new tubes. Ground off the weld and knocked out the remnant segments of the tubes.

Then slide it onto the new tubes.

Set up for welding it together!

Welded!

Then down into the tunnel. Welded!

That’s as far as I got. Maybe back on it this weekend, if time allows!
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[VW_Jimbo]

[sunroof]

Fantastic! This is all work I am going to have to do to mine. The heater cables are stuck in the tubes. I put the TR6 into a friends garage last night so I would have room this winter to work on the chassis in comfort. But first I need to get going on the drivers A pillar. For the moment however, guitar amps have my attention!

Don
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Better and better mistakes!

[VW_Jimbo]

[VW_Jimbo]

Update time once again! Got in another 8 hours! It was a solid session of making stuff better. I inspected the cable conduits really well and determined; that the throttle cable conduit and the fuel line needed to Be replaced. The other conduits were in good condition. So, onto it!

Here we go!

Looking down into the bottom of the tunnel, the throttle cable is retained at 3 points. I was able to reach them without cutting any new access holes. I was able to reach the clamps with a pry bar. I slowly wiggled the pry bar down into the clamp, spreading it open.

I then went to the exterior of the tunnel and ground the weld off of the tubing.

With everything loose, I slowly weaseled the conduit out of the tunnel. Check this out!

The other end of the tube is still attached to the clutch conduit and choke conduit. Right between the two. To get it out, is a job.
First, this is the starting point.

I need to get that protective sleeve off of the conduit run. You can see the clutch conduit sticking out of the sleeve, under the body seal plate. Here is a close up.

Started it by drilling out the spot welds.

Then hit it with an air chisel.

I then noticed that the flare at the end of the sleeve is larger than the opening in the sheet metal which I am trying to free. Turned my attention to the sleeve. Looks like one spot weld and it should pull off.

Ground off the spot weld and pulled on the shield, it did not budge. So, I got my large pry bar and placed it right at the seam and tapped it with a hammer. Movement!

Free!

The shield pretty much fell off as I was pulling off the sleeve.

With the conduits exposed, I ground down the welds as best able to and started to wiggle the remaining segment. It finally cracked!

I then stuck my radiator hose tool into the conduit and pushed and pulled the piece, until it finally came out!

And finally, it gave up!

I then pulled the coiled tubing from the box and straightened it out. I proceeded to mimic the bend at the front of the conduit.

I then slide it in, weaving it into the retainers at the interior of the tunnel.

With it all the way to the rear.

I squeezed the retainer back down onto the conduit and welded it into place.

Then back into the tunnel, where I retightened the retainer around the conduit.

Done with that one, onto the fuel line.
The fuel line is held in place. It is not welded at the retainers. No where along the run is this conduit welded. Funny stuff I never knew!

So, to get the old fuel tubing out, I had to get creative, as the retainers were super tight. The tubing will push through the retainer, but not the rust. So, I cut the tubing as close to the retainer as I could and hammered out the remnant piece.

Like this! The retainer has an unwelded seam!

Pulled out the roll of tubing and cut a segment off.

I then threaded it into the retainer. Perfect fit!

Had to cut a small triangular piece out of the tunnel bottom to access this retainer.

See the tubing going through.

Then the retainer in the middle.

Then, utilizing the previously cut fork, I push, bent, pulled and pried the new fuel tubing through the fork.

And then I pulled it out of the opening on the top of the fork.

With the tubing sticking out the back, I turned my attention to where it needs to exit the tunnel at the front.

Utilizing that front access hole, directly in back of the Nap Hat, gives me access to the area by the pedals and the area in back of the frame horn. And there it is, the fuel line!

I then pushed the line all the way forwards, till it came out the inspection cover hole. Cut off this piece from the roll I had and returned to the rear of the car To pull out the line, back to the Access hole I made, so I can bend the tubing, to help get it through the exit hole.

I then returned to the front, bent the end of the conduit at a 45 angle and weaseled it past the e-brake conduits. It has to curve under these and then stick out the tunnel. Spent a lot of time, pulling a small amount, bending it, pulling, bending, on and on. Until finally, the tubing cleared the adjacent conduits, cleared the tunnel and exited the front hole!

I then worked my way back to the rear, tightening up the clamps and bending the conduit to enter the fork nicely, without rubbing on anything!

Excess at the rear. Better too long than too short!

Cut, recent and pushed back into the tunnel!

Looking down into the fork.

With the new line installed, I wanted to add a rear tubing support, within the fork, to keep the tubing from bouncing around inside there loose. So, I added a support in each fork and secured the tubing within each one.

I then checked the fit of the previously removed pan and made some cuts to ease in alignment. There, perfect!

Tacked that side in and went to the other side.

Then welded the two of them up.

Also, welded up a rust hole in the fork.

With all of that installed, I moved onto buttoning it back up. First, prepared the front access hole. Ground it down to clean steel and shot some weldable primer onto the surfaces.

Same with the cover. Also, had to hammer this one flat again.

Laid into place and welded! Keep catching the seam sealer from the pan install on fire.

Then over to the triangular piece.

It was then time to stop, clean up and return to the family! Until next weekend!
_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[Buggeee]

That's a lot to get done in one day. It will be a satisfying feeling to install the cables through that conduit.
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1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[VW_Jimbo]

[VW_Jimbo]

Purchased a set of early Pop-Out windows for the 54!

Thank you Robinson!
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[Chickensoup]

Nice!
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-'85 c10 5.3 LS, 222 cam, long tubes, x pipe, 3 inch spin tech's
-'05 B5.5 TDI Wagon 17in sport rims ;EGR + BSM + ASV Delete, Stage-2 Tune, straight pipe
'65 Tourist Delivery Build
'66 RIP
'69 RIP
Hosea 4:6 "My people are destroyed for lack of knowledge"

[VW_Jimbo]

[Joey]

[Buggeee]

Popouts make you feel like a rockstar!
_________________
1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764

[VW_Jimbo]

[mdege]

I am surprised, that someone in California would put up with this much rust. Great work!
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- Michael

1965 21F: Restoration of a former '65 firetruck
1963 Typ3 Notchback project
1988 Multivan Magnum 112i
1984 Standard: My son wanted a bug for his first car

[VW_Jimbo]

[VW_Jimbo]

Had the full day to work on the Bug. But, Scot, my neighbor was having issues with his 79 Camper Bus.

He has had it at 2 different shops and they have been turning stuff to try and get it running okay but have not been successful. The shops say that they work on old VWs but we all know the truth.

I taught him how to perform a compression check and then we went about setting the basics. During the setting, right before, I found 3 good size vacuum leaks. We fixed those. Being suspect of the work performed by others, I checked the vacuum hoses against the sticker. Nothing was connected correctly! How do mechanics, with shops, perform this level of work, and expect to remain in business!?!? Damn!

Bottom line. Got it running well. Timing was set almost 20 degrees advanced. How? Why? Idle speed was incorrect. I can only imagine they were just trying to get it running, to get it out of their hair.

After messing with the neighbors Bus, I got back to the Bug! Started by checking the conduit runs, by running cables through them all.

Then flipped the pan over and finished welding up the holes I had cut into the bottom.

Finished that all up. Primed it and was going to clean up and weld the jack points in and that’s when the wife showed up with some Coconotorious Beer! Had to stop and have one or two!

_________________
Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[Ricksurfin]

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

Come on Jimbo, if you’re going to do it right, you need three or four with what you’ve been through on that car! Lol

[VW_Jimbo]

[Ricksurfin]

Definitely enjoying the story, and look forward to each post. What you are doing is so far beyond my skill set, that I marvel at what you’re accomplishing.

[AlteWagen]

Does the new choke cable/housing fit the tube?

A working manual choke (or poor mans cruise control) is pretty nice to have.
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Grapes of Wrath $200 Engine Rebuild
Official Dual Carb Thread
Cylinder Head Quick Reference Sheet