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Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle
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Pruneman99
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2019 6:49 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

The only thing you can tell from those plugs are that they are very, very old.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2019 6:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Plus while you have the engine down to along block, it is a good time to retorque all the engine case fasteners and then the heads in same amounts and sequences as if building an engine. You will be very surprised at how loose the fasteners will be.

Additional problem is more then likely the engine oil was not changed after the last drive. All the dirt that was suspended in the oil has now precipitated out of the oil. If you just take the engine up on the highway that sludge once really heated up will come loose like an avalanche and clog up the oil cooler or oil passages in the case. Followed by you rebuilding the engine, if it is not a total write off.

You will need to change the oil often (every 50 miles or sooner if the oil looks dirty on the dipstick) and best to do only in town trips of 15 to 30 minutes for the first 300 to 400 miles. You want to slowly rinse out all the gunk out of the engine.

You should consider installing a CB oil filter pump to keep crud from the oil cooler and bearings.
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2019 7:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

She’s a mutt from pets mart easy keeper eats bugs and dry kibble

Last edited by Zundfolge1432 on Sat Aug 10, 2019 7:15 pm; edited 2 times in total
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2019 7:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Plus while you have the engine down to a long block, it is a good time to retorque all the engine case fasteners and then the heads in same amounts and sequences as if building an engine. You will be very surprised at how loose the fasteners will be.


Not really, lots of vibration over a long time (my Dad did destructive and stress tests to Navy equipment).

However, if can't get the engine to rotate, will have to be torn completely down.

Eric&Barb wrote:
Additional problem is more then likely the engine oil was not changed after the last drive. All the dirt that was suspended in the oil has now precipitated out of the oil. If you just take the engine up on the highway that sludge once really heated up will come loose like an avalanche and clog up the oil cooler or oil passages in the case. Followed by you rebuilding the engine, if it is not a total write off.


I was going to change the oil and then use Kleen. Though, do have a lot of 5W-40 need to get rid of (the vehicle it was for was totaled by an elderly lady too tired and didn't notice the traffic was stopped ahead, to which I am still recovering).

Eric&Barb wrote:
You will need to change the oil often (every 50 miles or sooner if the oil looks dirty on the dipstick) and best to do only in town trips of 15 to 30 minutes for the first 300 to 400 miles. You want to slowly rinse out all the gunk out of the engine.


Everything I need to get to is a five to 15 minute drive. The way folks drive on the freeways out here not going to take her on any (there is a wonderfully scenic 50MPH road through the reservation to get to Tempe or another scenic for Phoenix if some reason needed to go all that way). Why would like to get the flaps and thermostat in so warms up quicker; does get into the 20s here in Winter and have had snow (though in a windowless lecture hall so missed).

Eric&Barb wrote:
You should consider installing a CB oil filter pump to keep crud from the oil cooler and bearings.


Ha! When you replied I was trying to find an oil filter without machining the case, though everything said must be dual pressure relief valve.

Edit
Looking on the site only finding 26mm and per this statement:
Eric&Barb wrote:
Stick with stock.
Bigger pumps are a band aid for worn out engines with low oil pressure.

In a tight rebuilt engine will cause cooling problems in hot weather.
So how does one avoid this if 21mm is not available?
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation


Last edited by Adriel Rowley on Sat Aug 10, 2019 7:31 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sat Aug 10, 2019 7:15 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Zundfolge1432 wrote:
She’s a mutt from Petsmart, easy keeper eats only bugs and dry kibble Very Happy


I thought the head didn't look right.

Mutts are good, got a couple dog mutts myself. My Service Dog is one and he is better than the previous who she is a Golden, as he has the Golden desire to please, plus the Aussie smarts and energy.

What else do you do while the engine is out?
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2019 3:18 am    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Adriel Rowley wrote:


What else do you do while the engine is out?


Drink beer
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2019 8:37 am    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Eric&Barb wrote:
You should consider installing a CB oil filter pump to keep crud from the oil cooler and bearings.


Ha! When you replied I was trying to find an oil filter without machining the case, though everything said must be dual pressure relief valve.

Edit
Looking on the site only finding 26mm and per this statement:
Eric&Barb wrote:
Stick with stock.
Bigger pumps are a band aid for worn out engines with low oil pressure.

In a tight rebuilt engine will cause cooling problems in hot weather.
So how does one avoid this if 21mm is not available?


Not sure, but have never had an over pressure problem with the CB oil filter pumps with 26mm long gears. Possibly the filter itself causes just enough restriction, and/or the multiple changes in direction in the pump cover, and pump body.

We do have a STOCK VW of Mexico oil filter pump and it has 30mm long gears.

Pulled out a stock size OEM from Germany oil pump with 21mm long gears. Measured across the gears with calipers and get 32mm wide. Measure the above two filter pumps and got the same width.

Have run oil pressure gauges with the CB oil filter pumps, and vintage EMPI ones, and so far have never had a problem with them due to too much oil pressure.
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2019 10:19 am    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Adriel Rowley wrote:

Eric&Barb wrote:
You should consider installing a CB oil filter pump to keep crud from the oil cooler and bearings.


Ha! When you replied I was trying to find an oil filter without machining the case, though everything said must be dual pressure relief valve.

Edit
Looking on the site only finding 26mm and per this statement:
Eric&Barb wrote:
Stick with stock.
Bigger pumps are a band aid for worn out engines with low oil pressure.

In a tight rebuilt engine will cause cooling problems in hot weather.
So how does one avoid this if 21mm is not available?


Not sure, but have never had an over pressure problem with the CB oil filter pumps with 26mm long gears. Possibly the filter itself causes just enough restriction, and/or the multiple changes in direction in the pump cover, and pump body.

We do have a STOCK VW of Mexico oil filter pump and it has 30mm long gears.

Pulled out a stock size OEM from Germany oil pump with 21mm long gears. Measured across the gears with calipers and get 32mm wide. Measure the above two filter pumps and got the same width.

Have run oil pressure gauges with the CB oil filter pumps, and vintage EMPI ones, and so far have never had a problem with them due to too much oil pressure.


Really appreciate clarifying and sorry if coming across arguing, don't want to ruin a 1200cc as not replaceable like the 1500cc/1600cc. My hope is to pass it to the next generation in good as or better condition than I received.

Last night doing research, find this:
Eric&Barb wrote:
.Have run similar vintage EMPI oil pump filter. Got a free 40 HP engine from a friend who upgraded to 1600.
[...]
So took the engine down to long block, balanced the pistons and while that deep decided to replace the rod bearings and install filter/pump. Ran great and smooth after that till just a little over 10,000 miles later when crank broke.
When taking the engine apart for rebuild was great to find the rod bearings showed no mar signs of junk having gone through them. They were only slightly polished in the two sides from the thrust/pull of the piston.


That is fantastic and goes to show these folks saying only need a screen as what is stock, are wrong. Clean oil is always better. Plus, I live in a desert with haboobs, not Germany with stepps and forests (half serious).
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2019 1:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Really appreciate clarifying and sorry if coming across arguing, don't want to ruin a 1200cc as not replaceable like the 1500cc/1600cc. My hope is to pass it to the next generation in good as or better condition than I received.

That is fantastic and goes to show these folks saying only need a screen as what is stock, are wrong. Clean oil is always better. Plus, I live in a desert with haboobs, not Germany with stepps and forests (half serious).


No worries, totally understand. We have now over 150,000 miles since last rebuild on our 1641cc SP with CW crankshaft in the 1960 walk thru panel camper conversion. Engine before that was a big bore 40 HP and got over 80,000 miles on that. Only pulled it due to too much end play. Otherwise it still ran like new. Before that we would be rebuilding an engine at 30,000 to 40,000 miles due to loss of HP from compression loss which mainly turned out due to running 3,800 RPM for cruising. After installing gauges found we were running as high as 280F oil temp while traveling thru the mountains in N. Calif. Then worked with a local transaxle rebuilder to come up with a much higher geared transaxle now often called a Freeway Flier. For us it has always been about getting these ACVWs engines to have longevity and as a bonus better MPG to save $$. Just checked the other day in the log book over about 2,000 miles, we are getting a little over 23.5 MPG (Vs 18-19 MPG we used to get with the smaller 40 HP big bore engines, and stock gearing), which is great for an old bus that can now cruise at 3,000 RPM at 58 or 60 MPH depending on if using stock diameter rear tires or slightly larger diameter rear tires. Plus keeping the oil temp no higher than 220F.

Keep in mind that the stock MAY59-early 1964 model bus small nut transaxle is only geared for 47 MPH in fourth @ 3,000 RPM. The mountain geared RGBs have even a lower MPH at same RPM... Meanwhile your stock beetles and other type 1s are doing 60 MPH @ 3,000 RPM in fourth...
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2019 1:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Adriel Rowley wrote:

Really appreciate clarifying and sorry if coming across arguing, don't want to ruin a 1200cc as not replaceable like the 1500cc/1600cc. My hope is to pass it to the next generation in good as or better condition than I received.

That is fantastic and goes to show these folks saying only need a screen as what is stock, are wrong. Clean oil is always better. Plus, I live in a desert with haboobs, not Germany with stepps and forests (half serious).


No worries, totally understand. We have now over 150,000 miles since last rebuild on our 1641cc SP with CW crankshaft in the 1960 walk thru panel camper conversion. Engine before that was a big bore 40 HP and got over 80,000 miles on that. Only pulled it due to too much end play. Otherwise it still ran like new. Before that we would be rebuilding an engine at 30,000 to 40,000 miles due to loss of HP from compression loss which mainly turned out due to running 3,800 RPM for cruising. After installing gauges found we were running as high as 280F oil temp while traveling thru the mountains in N. Calif. Then worked with a local transaxle rebuilder to come up with a much higher geared transaxle now often called a Freeway Flier. For us it has always been about getting these ACVWs engines to have longevity and as a bonus better MPG to save $$. Just checked the other day in the log book over about 2,000 miles, we are getting a little over 23.5 MPG (Vs 18-19 MPG we used to get with the smaller 40 HP big bore engines, and stock gearing), which is great for an old bus that can now cruise at 3,000 RPM at 58 or 60 MPH depending on if using stock diameter rear tires or slightly larger diameter rear tires. Plus keeping the oil temp no higher than 220F.

Keep in mind that the stock MAY59-early 1964 model bus small nut transaxle is only geared for 47 MPH in fourth @ 3,000 RPM. The mountain geared RGBs have even a lower MPH at same RPM... Meanwhile your stock beetles and other type 1s are doing 60 MPH @ 3,000 RPM in fourth...


I know about those reduction boxes, though never in my life have ridden in any bus, including a split window. I can't imagine what it was like doing road trips in times past, especially having experienced 45MPH road trips.

I thought the maximum speed on a Beetle was 72MPH?

Wonder if anyone has changed fourth in a Type 1 for lower RPMs. Not that I would, not going to need it.

Looking at all the threads about filters, seems almost miraculous the original engine made it to about 100,000 miles and the second has over 250,000 miles. Maybe Castrol does have caster bean oil and does make a difference. Laughing Part of why originally wanted to keep it going, will see how looks once the tins are off and if the engine will rotate.

As for the engine rebuild if and when needed, not as many parts as the 1600cc I rebuilt for the Squareback. Wanted long life so went with a counterbalanced crankshaft and then balanced the pistons and rods to within a half a gram. However, can see $500 better spent especially since I don't drive hard and not going to be in the higher RPMs, though can still balance the pitons and rods to a gram.
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2019 2:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Adriel Rowley wrote:

I thought the maximum speed on a Beetle was 72MPH?


Indeed it is, but that does not result in either engine longevity or much better MPG.

Got to remember that the warranty on a stock beetle was way less than 30,000 miles, and VW was happy to rebuild or sell you a new engine. That just made them more $$$.

Yes, lots of folks with the type 1 have done different versions of FF transaxle. Personally perfectly happy with a 1200 or big bore 40 HP and stock gearing in 1950s thru 1965 beetles.

Our 1963 K Ghia came from the DPO with fourth gear changed from stock .89 fourth gear to .82 stock bus fourth gear, so able to do 65 MPH @ 3,000 RPM. Did have a gearing gap between 45 MPH in third and 50 MPH in fourth gear. In my less wise days, could easily get it up to 85 MPH (about 4,500 RPM), and if dropping down a very small hill onto flats could just get it up to 90 MPH (about 5,000 RPM) and hold that. With stock 40 HP engine. Ghias are much more streamlined than the beetles.

Found the hard way that at least the 40 HP engine tends to beat the #2 bearing area and fret it in that area of the case, so it looses oil pressure. This due to running higher RPMs, and how much the crankshaft flexes. 1500/1600 cranks are stiffer, with wider webs, but they still flex.

Remember traveling from center of Texas near Abilene (where I was stationed in the USAF), to Corpus Christi (to visit my dad's relations) with a dear cousin who had moved up "North" due to me being there. I took the first four hours driving the Ghia, She took the next four hours. I fell asleep after she took over, and a long while later woke up hearing the engine spinning like mad. Opened one eye and looked over to see she was doing 85 MPH in the hill country around Fredericksburg. This back in the day the national speed limit was 55 MPH! I leaned over and mentioned she should look at the speedo, she was shocked at what she saw, and let up on the gas pedal. Back then she had a low mileage early 1980s Nissan Pulsar that was her baby. The front end on the Pulsar would start to vibrate some and the hood wobble when getting up to 60 MPH. She could not believe how smooth the K Ghia drove at 85 MPH....

She and her two sons in their thirties visited us just a few years ago. Mentioned the above to the guys and they were gobsmacked that their dear sainted mother was such a speed demon. Boy she was embarrassed! Laughing
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PostPosted: Sun Aug 11, 2019 3:30 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Adriel Rowley wrote:

I thought the maximum speed on a Beetle was 72MPH?


Indeed it is, but that does not result in either engine longevity or much better MPG.

Got to remember that the warranty on a stock beetle was way less than 30,000 miles, and VW was happy to rebuild or sell you a new engine. That just made them more $$$.

Yes, lots of folks with the type 1 have done different versions of FF transaxle. Personally perfectly happy with a 1200 or big bore 40 HP and stock gearing in 1950s thru 1965 beetles.

Our 1963 K Ghia came from the DPO with fourth gear changed from stock .89 fourth gear to .82 stock bus fourth gear, so able to do 65 MPH @ 3,000 RPM. Did have a gearing gap between 45 MPH in third and 50 MPH in fourth gear. In my less wise days, could easily get it up to 85 MPH (about 4,500 RPM), and if dropping down a very small hill onto flats could just get it up to 90 MPH (about 5,000 RPM) and hold that. With stock 40 HP engine. Ghias are much more streamlined than the beetles.

Found the hard way that at least the 40 HP engine tends to beat the #2 bearing area and fret it in that area of the case, so it looses oil pressure. This due to running higher RPMs, and how much the crankshaft flexes. 1500/1600 cranks are stiffer, with wider webs, but they still flex.

Remember traveling from center of Texas near Abilene (where I was stationed in the USAF), to Corpus Christi (to visit my dad's relations) with a dear cousin who had moved up "North" due to me being there. I took the first four hours driving the Ghia, She took the next four hours. I fell asleep after she took over, and a long while later woke up hearing the engine spinning like mad. Opened one eye and looked over to see she was doing 85 MPH in the hill country around Fredericksburg. This back in the day the national speed limit was 55 MPH! I leaned over and mentioned she should look at the speedo, she was shocked at what she saw, and let up on the gas pedal. Back then she had a low mileage early 1980s Nissan Pulsar that was her baby. The front end on the Pulsar would start to vibrate some and the hood wobble when getting up to 60 MPH. She could not believe how smoothttps://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/album_upload.php?cat_id=666h the K Ghia drove at 85 MPH....

She and her two sons in their thirties visited us just a few years ago. Mentioned the above to the guys and they were gobsmacked that their dear sainted mother was such a speed demon. Boy she was embarrassed! Laughing


I needed the laugh, just got more bad news. Anyway, 85MPH is really scooting. Dad when younger for fun got Ruby to 90MPH though was a long downhill in Imperial County desert. Have wondered how that felt with the link and king front suspension.

The Squareback with the FI 1600cc can really go, folks have had over 90MPH IIRC. I found, just like others, she do just right at 60MPH on the freeway. Fast enough to be safe and slow enough to have a good RPM for longevity and economy. I probably do that with Ruby if forced to drive on the freeway, done 55MPH due to construction and after several close calls broke the law and went 60MPH. Though preferably keep off the freeways so not going to be over 50MPH (speed limit though the res is 50MPH).

And nothing is slower than a Mercedes 300TD-T with a non working turbocharger.
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 3:29 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Today's little project is to clean up a carburetor ready for a rebuild kit. Good thing took apart before ordering, some reason missing a float bowl in one. Can't remember if I bought this for him or not. Was a bit taken back finding that.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Fuel bowl on the other can see where the float was touching, cleaned off though did leave a stain.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


What was this tag for? Nothing on it now.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Off to reassemble the bottom half and repeat for the top.
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 4:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Adriel Rowley wrote:
Today's little project is to clean up a carburetor ready for a rebuild kit. Good thing took apart before ordering, some reason missing a float bowl in one. Can't remember if I bought this for him or not. Was a bit taken back finding that.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Fuel bowl on the other can see where the float was touching, cleaned off though did leave a stain.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


What was this tag for? Nothing on it now.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Off to reassemble the bottom half and repeat for the top.


That carb is for a 36 HP engine. Not ideal for a post-JUL60 40 HP engine.

Look on the underside of the tag, after cleaning it up some.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 4:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Adriel Rowley wrote:
Today's little project is to clean up a carburetor ready for a rebuild kit. Good thing took apart before ordering, some reason missing a float bowl in one. Can't remember if I bought this for him or not. Was a bit taken back finding that.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Fuel bowl on the other can see where the float was touching, cleaned off though did leave a stain.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


What was this tag for? Nothing on it now.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Off to reassemble the bottom half and repeat for the top.


That carb is for a 36 HP engine. Not ideal for a post-JUL60 40 HP engine.

Look on the underside of the tag, after cleaning it up some.


Well bummer. Guess can't trust everything online. Sure appreciate knowing this now than after tearing down the other and rebuilding both of them.

Are they worth selling?

Right now has a 28PCIT-1 which I thought was for the 1300cc engines.
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 6:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Define worth. Not going to make hundreds of bucks off of them.

Back in the day when old 356 Porches were a dime a dozen, the brake shoe cores were tossed out due to most owners were not worried about getting back the $10.00 core charge from the FLAPS.

Think it was in the latter 1990s the cores dried up and owners were constantly advertising for many more times more for brake cores just so they could get a set of brakes rebuilt for their one and only 356...

You can do a few searches of the classifieds for general prices of parts like that. Big problem is you can not say you have run either on a 36 HP engine and made sure they ran right.

Owners manuals are a great resource for technical data like this:

AUG60
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


AUG63
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


VW did build Standard beetles with the still 36 HP engine in back thru the 1970s, but was mostly a Euro poor mans car with little to no frills. Though some were sold in Canada also, any of those you might find in the USA would be a grey market VW.
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 8:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
Define worth. Not going to make hundreds of bucks off of them.

Back in the day when old 356 Porches were a dime a dozen, the brake shoe cores were tossed out due to most owners were not worried about getting back the $10.00 core charge from the FLAPS.

Think it was in the latter 1990s the cores dried up and owners were constantly advertising for many more times more for brake cores just so they could get a set of brakes rebuilt for their one and only 356...

You can do a few searches of the classifieds for general prices of parts like that. Big problem is you can not say you have run either on a 36 HP engine and made sure they ran right.

Owners manuals are a great resource for technical data like this:

AUG60
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AUG63
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VW did build Standard beetles with the still 36 HP engine in back thru the 1970s, but was mostly a Euro poor mans car with little to no frills. Though some were sold in Canada also, any of those you might find in the USA would be a grey market VW.


Worth, as in keeping. A friend and I have thrown out several sets of Squareback glass as no one needs. Feels awful, though I have a garage full and more of Volkswagen parts, some keeping as can't bring myself to toss (like German Hella early Type 3 lenses and housings).

I do trust your right, just mad at myself for not checking before wasting time, except the practice. It's late, so put it into a quart Ziplock half assembled, have too much to do to put back together only to be taken apart.

Being will never get married and have children, my Sister probably just pitch it all in the trash. Not like she cares enough for me to let her know what to donate.

Edit
Here is the differences:
28 PCI... with removable Venture... Venturi =21.5 mm... Main Jet = 117.5/122.5... Air correction jet
=180/200...Pilot jet = g50... Idle air jet drilling = 0.8... Power fuel jet = no...Emulsion tube = 29

28PICT-1... 1961-1965....Venturi = 22.5 mm... Main Jet =122.5... Air correction jet=125z/130Y
Pilot jet =g55... Acc pump jet = .50...Idle air jet drilling = 150... Power fuel jet=1.0mm
Accelerator pump feed = 1.1-1.4cc/stroke...First year of Automatic choke.

30 PICT-1... 1966-1967...Venturi = 24.0 mm... Main Jet = 125... Air correction jet =125z/135z
Pilot jet = g55... Idle air jet drilling = 150... Acc pump jet = 50...Power fuel jet = __
Accelerator pump feed = 1.1-1.6cc/stroke...Larger Venturi

30 PICT-2...1968-1969...Venturi = 24.0 mm... Main Jet = 116/125... Air correction jet =125z/135z
Pilot jet = g55... Idle air jet drilling = 130/135...Acc. pump jet = 50... Power fuel jet =60
Accelerator pump feed = 1.3-1.6cc/stroke...First year for Power fuel system which draws
fuel directly from the float chamber under full load at high Speed.

30 PICT-3...1970...Venturi = 24.0 mm... Main Jet = 122.5/112... Air correction jet = 125z
Pilot jet=65... Pilot jet air bleed = 135...Acc. pump jet = 42.5... Auxiliary fuel jet = 45
Auxiliary air jet =130...Accelerator pump feed = 1.3-1.6cc/stroke...Idle speed is controlled
by bypass around the throttle plate.
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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Eric&Barb
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 8:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

28 PCI also has the manual choke cable setup.

In "PICT", the "T" = electric choke. No "T" = "Manual Choke".

We are running a H 30-PCI on our 1641cc SP engine in the 1960 walk thru panel camper conversion.
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Adriel Rowley
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Location: Mesa, Arizona
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 8:34 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Eric&Barb wrote:
28 PCI also has the manual choke cable setup.

In "PICT", the "T" = electric choke. No "T" = "Manual Choke".

We are running a H 30-PCI on our 1641cc SP engine in the 1960 walk thru panel camper conversion.


Appreciated, was wondering that. Interesting there is a spring loaded diaphragm. Somewhere have a German dictionary, want to look up what word that is.

Why are you running the camper with a manual choke? Or am I getting my dates wrong? Es ist spät...
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 23955
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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PostPosted: Mon Aug 12, 2019 8:36 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Worth, as in keeping. A friend and I have thrown out several sets of Squareback glass as no one needs. Feels awful, though I have a garage full and more of Volkswagen parts, some keeping as can't bring myself to toss (like German Hella early Type 3 lenses and housings).


We remember back in the day you could pickup any old 1955-67 bus rear hatch in good shape for anywhere from $5 to 20. Now same rear hatches sell for hundreds of dollars!

One of these days would like to aquire a type 3 to get back on the road.....
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