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Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle
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Adriel Rowley
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 19, 2020 8:18 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Little things today, mostly research and ordering parts. Did try again cleaning the headliner, including some nasty chemicals, alas the stains will not lighten one bit, very permanent, just like the smell in my nose and the taste in my mouth. “Yet here’s a spot. Out, damned spot! Out I say!”

The headliner is a replacement, not correct, no padding, stitching coming undone, and under the window is roasted. Figure best time anyway since Ruby will be getting new window seals. Also thinking add something to block some of the Arizona warmth.

Tomorrow have a long appointment so doubt much get done, plus still haven't started on getting the "garage" up and need to get Ruby moved off the drive before someone complains.
_________________
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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Adriel Rowley
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PostPosted: Thu Feb 20, 2020 4:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Got the Volkswagen paperwork today, the dates do not match the certificate, though the technical sheet matches the information in the Technical Section.

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Interesting had the grey cord vinyl, yet the picture I have shows grey basket weave.Not going with vinyl so doesn't matter that much. Still a puzzle where she was from 22 January to 12 July.
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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bad91teg
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2020 6:17 am    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

i think its official . your the numbers guy lol . im the same way . looking at dates and numbers , trying to find out all I can about my bug . after reading thru your build thread again , i realized how much history you and this bug have .im really behind this build ,and want to see your plans go forth . me and my dad had the same thing . also i see you don't have a gray cat . that was another guy posting . anyways later on ..
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2020 6:24 am    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

waiting to see a pic of ruby once garage is up . Popcorn
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2020 11:11 am    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

bad91teg wrote:
waiting to see a pic of ruby once garage is up . Popcorn


Thank you, does help motivate. Was one of those hole in the bucket situations: couldn't find my pipe cutter because no shed to have the space and organization to find the tools. So, went on eBay and found Rigid's next size up so wouldn't have two of the same. Then of course the day it ships out, find it, though this is my take it easy day and appointments tomorrow, though.
_________________
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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Adriel Rowley
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2020 1:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

I have heard need to keep all of Ruby's topics in this build thread, so move them best I can and then delete.

Adjusting the decklid.

mukluk wrote:
Adriel Rowley wrote:
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.

The gap as shown tells me the hinge bracket needs to move forward and the decklid up a bit. If the hinge bracket is currently adjusted full forward or the decklid full up, then most likely the bracket itself is bent downward. To bend the bracket back into shape, one can simply insert a screwdriver into one of the two gaps/holes in the end of the bracket then push up and forward.

Due to variances from car to car, the measurement you're looking for isn't necessarily going to be useful.



Getting the axel nuts off is a snap... Help!

Adriel Rowley wrote:
Think this should be separate also, not lost in Ruby's build thread (really need to update).

Seems getting the rear axel nuts off is a snap...
Proto
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SK Tools
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I only have a 3/4 inch drive breaker bar, so need the adapter. I am then using a six foot piece of pipe and laying onto it, with my 185 pounds (which is deceptive as vary from 31 to 33 inch waist). Been many years since had to do science math, that is 1,100 foot pounds, so am I pushing the adapters too far?

Looked at the torque multiplier and only comes half inch drive. Not sure help, thus why here, as rather not waste $100 if no point.

Has anyone had this much trouble and if so, how does one get them off when this stuck?

Thank y'all in advance! Very Happy


Zundfolge1432 wrote:
A final word of caution. Break these loose car on ground I’ve seen people knock a car off jack stands. Not saying you’d do this but someone reading this thread might.


nreslifer wrote:
Torque Meister


Dangermouse wrote:
Doesn't matter what size drive you use as long as it terminates in an 11mm socket... Anyone tried 1/4" ? Laughing

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Then you undo those nuts with one hand while whistling a merry tune.


Bryan67 wrote:
Get a 3/4" drive 36mm socket. And don`t use the adapter.


74 Thing wrote:
You need a quality 3/4 to 1/2 inch adapter, or a quality 1/2" breaker bar, or a quality socket that you can use with your current 3/4" breaker bar, or get the Torquemeister.


sjbartnik wrote:
Adriel Rowley wrote:


According to the information for the multiplier, "24FT LBS = 216 LBS", meaning, must use my pipe on a breaker bar.


Huh? No. The torque multiplier is a 9x multiplier. The drive accepts an 11mm socket.

If you put 24 ft lbs of torque on the 11m socket you get 216 ft lbs. at the axle nut.

Axle nuts and gland nuts come free easy with an 11mm socket and a standard 3/8" drive ratchet - I have yet to need more leverage than that.

When reinstalling, put that 11mm socket on a torque wrench.


KTPhil wrote:
Cusser wrote:
I'm in Arizona, have been taking rear axle nuts and gland nuts off for almost 50 years now. I use a Craftsman 1/2 inch breaker bar (my friend broke it twice over the years, free replacement) with a 4-foot pipe over it. I use a 1/2 drive 12-point socket I bought in early 1970s.


This has been my setup for decades, too, though I don't have to remove them often. With rust and age, (and maybe an idiot tightening them before), the required torque can be far above 220 ft-lbs. I used a slightly longer pipe (almost 6 ft) on a breaker bar on the RR and actually lifted the front tires off the ground of my Bug before it finally let loose. That must be something north of 600 ft-lbs! That nut was blisteringly hot after it came loose, too!

I also bought a torque tool, and with the split drums on the late Type 3, I haven't had to use it yet.


Helfen wrote:
3/4" breaker bar, very short 3/4" extension, 3/4" 36mm socket, 5ft of 1-1/4' dia. galvanized pipe.

To remove the "rt side axle nut" place the 36mm socket on the nut with the breaker bar clocked to the front of the car, place a little grease on the breaker bar handle, slide the galvanized pipe over the handle about a foot. Place the car in neutral and roll the car forward until the pipe touches the ground. Get in, Start the car and drive forward. LET THE CAR DO THE WORK!!

For the left side do the same in reverse and back up instead.

So simple I can get tools and install and loosen the nut in less than 60 seconds.


rcooled wrote:
If you really need to get an axle nut off and don't have the right tools at hand, try this: Drill the largest hole you can straight in at one of the grooves. Drill thru 'till you reach the drum. With a cold chisel & mallet, put a good whack on the flat above the hole. The nut will crack and usually come off quite easily, no matter how tight it was.


Dangermouse wrote:
When I busted loose the axle nuts on my single cab I took this approach which worked well. 46mm nut so couldn't use the torque meister. Cost me zilch. 3/4" breaker bar and a scaffolding pole FTW.

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Moz'z58 wrote:
Looks like you may need other suggestions...?

For me, and most with these cars = 3/4 drive proto breaker bar and 6 point hvy dty Proto and Snap-on impact sockets are my method, with a 4-5' x 1" section of black gas pipe cheater over the bar - this is the way I went when I got my bus in 80's. If your going to drive these you have to invest somehow, esp'ly now when NO ONE will work on them.

I have a tape marker to stand my weight on for final torque guesstimate of 256 I believe for the 46mm bus. Keep in mind it is only near to correct because rarely will that official # number line up with the cotter, which is obviously the failsafe. So backing off to get hole may be 190#. or over to 350# Doesn't matter, it is 'enough' but do keep TRQ as high as possible or drum will work itself on the axle splines. Pack grease into the gaps of splines and get interfaces well greased too to 'seal' for water ingress.

Breaking a 1/2 square drive means you need a 'solution'. My own first problem and lesson in '86 was same as your doing now. A neighbor solved it for me by cutting the nut with a dremel and cut off wheel - took 5 minutes. the cut through was enough relief and it came right off with a cold chisel into the kerf.

But with low bucks I'd try PB Blaster, tapping around the nut also w/ ball peen, and keep soaking - maybe a few days. Then clean it off for less fumes, and apply some heat, but not too much just to where you can't touch it, not red hot or anything near it. Don't heat the axle end, keep flame on nut only Then see if a fresh 1/2 drive will work again if 3/4 investment or rental is no-go.

Otherwise get a new nut and cut this off. Or sell the car Wink Hope you get it - patiently applied persistence is the key Twisted Evil


ashman40 wrote:
First question... did you remove the cotter pin? Sorry, just had to check.

The point about applying 1100lb-ft... if you were actually able to stand on the 6ft piece of pipe while applying the toque to the nut for a few seconds I might agree with you. I suspect BEFORE you could actually stand on the pipe the 3/4" to 1/2" adapter snapped off. This means before you could actually apply the full 1100lb-ft the adapter broke. I'm pretty sure the adapter wasn't rated to even half of 1100lb-ft. So I doubt you will actually be applying 1100lb-ft nor should you need that much to break the nut loose. But 500lb-ft, maybe. Confused

When I first tried to remove my rear axle nuts I broke both a Craftsman and Proto 1/2-drive breaker bar. Only the Snap-On 1/2" breaker survived. The nut gave a huge screech when it came loose.

Since then I bought a 3/4" breaker + a 3/4" 36mm socket.
I also bought the TorqueMeister/TorqueBuddy tool. It really is quite amazing and makes it much easier to remove the nut. It really only takes 30-50lb-ft of torque at the tool (450lb-ft) to remove even the most stubborn nuts and only 24lb-ft to install. It really feels like it isn't tight enough because it is sooo easy.
Given a choice, I'd much rather remove the nut with one hand using a 3/8" ratchet + 11mm socket, than to dangerously apply 400-500lb-ft by jumping on the end of a 6ft long bar.


Here are my suggestion for getting the rear axle nut off.... for all, apply penetrating oil and some heat before-hand to aid in loosening the nut.
    1) If still driveable, take it to a shop with a 3/4" impact gun and have them loosen it for a few $$.

    2) When your 3/4" 36mm socket arrives you should be able to apply enough torque to remove the nut. The challenge will be to keep the drum from rotating. Even with the transmission in gear with the parking brake set it may be necessary to apply so much torque you will end up rotating the wheel. In which case you will need to mount a bar to the lug nuts to prevent them from rotating.

    3) Buy a TorqueBuddy.

    4) Buy a slug wrench. They do work for taking the nut off, but you may damage the tire/wheel/drum if you are not careful.

    5) Cut the nut off and buy a new one. This is not that difficult. As long as you take caution to not damage the threads you should be okay.


There is one situation (not your case) where only ONE of the above will work to remove the nut... if you strip the splines on your drums the drum/wheel cannot be used to counter the torque you are applying. This means the parking brake and the lug nuts thru a bar/angle iron will not help. Only the impact gun will be able to remove the nut off the end of the axle.


storm wrote:
Had that same problem with a 67 bus. Took a acelean torch. Get the axle nut red hot. Then try above methods. Works for me and should work for you.



Well, Jim came over and did need on the driver side the torque tool and a breaker bar.

I did buy a 6 point 3/4 inch drive socket and a vintage Wright Tools 1/2 inch breaker bar off eBay for about $10. When putting the axle nuts back on, made it really easy as get started with the small breaker and the 12 point, then with the six point on the larger breaker with a pipe, do the final torque. In the end, highly recommend an 18 inch 1/2 inch drive breaker with flex head, makes putting on the lug nuts so much easier than a bigger breaker or a ratchet.


leowagen wrote:
I use a nice and long lock profile (mine is way over kill, is a 10 mm U-beam, but a nice 1-1/2" L profile will do the work. Drill a hole on it big enough to fit a wheel lug at about 1" from the tip. put in in the drum, with onew lug bolt in this hole, and the next lug bolt jamming against the pofile so you lock it against the ground. Then a 3/4" or a 1" drive 36 mm with a 80 cm lever will undo the nut with little effort. Nice thing is this setpu can also be used for flywheel nut and is quite cheap.


I just used a piece of bed frame wedged against the lug nuts.


Uneven wear on rear drum.

Adriel Rowley wrote:
Pulled the right rear drum to find a lip of about a millimeter and a half on one side tapering to no lip on the opposite side (other side different brand drum and has no lip all the way around). What would cause this uneven wear?

The drum is stamped made in Japan and has no oil passage. Should the drum be replaced?

Thank y'all in advance! Smile


Eric&Barb wrote:
Adriel Rowley wrote:
What would cause this uneven wear?


Would guess the tool/spindle the drum was installed on to lathe the inner diameter at the factory was somehow off. Maybe a metal chip stuck in the dead/live center end. Would not worry about it, now that it has been trued up with the actual brake shoes.


mukluk wrote:
Are the shoes not sitting square to the backing plate?
Is the backing plate bent?
How well do the ends of the shoes fit in the slots in the adjusters and wheel cylinders?


Somehow missed this reply, sorry.

Shoes fit the wheel cylinders fine. Shoes don't seem to be out of place.

If switch shoes, then both sides drag.


Correcting crease on fender lip and disjointed nose.

Adriel Rowley wrote:
Have been looking since Summer for set of fenders to no avail, unless spend about a grand and then have to have a friend ship them from California. Also having hard time finding a frame shop willing unless pay big dollar (many years ago quoted $800 starting price for frame pull for the Squareback). So, must accept have to get this hard crease out of Ruby's front fender and would like to do her nose job too if possible.

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Think happened when an illegal hit Ruby's front driver side bumper, disjointing her nose. Thankfully just the nose and not the frame horn, seems didn't even bend the fuel tank support.

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Even the inner fender has bent away from the bummer mount.

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I have removed dents and straitened an inner fender before (Squareback hit and run not my fault accident), though didn't know the full extent. So where does one begin?

I have a welder and be ordering a Martin hammer and dolly set, Harbor Freight just doesn't feel right.

Thank y'all in advance! Smile


TDCTDI wrote:
The crease near the fender is a result of the impact to the leading edge of the fender being transferred through the compound curve of the fender & flattening of the curved edge of the mating surface where the fender bolts up.

You can get a stud gun & anchor the studs to what was supposed to be the original curved edge & once you pull it back out, you can hammer & dolly the accident induced edge back out. I effectively did the same thing on my car except I welded scrap to the edge since I did not have a stud gun. Once I had a strip tacked on, i used a pair of vice grips adapted to a slide hammer to pull the body line back into shape.


TDCTDI wrote:
Next up was to deal with the one thing keeping me from completing the driver side a pillar, a quarter of an inch to an inch thick plaster job on the front quarter panel.
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Not having a stud gun at my disposal, I came up with another plan to pull the panel out.



All of y'all squeamish types, look away now.





I grabbed some excess trimmings & started tacking them to the hard edge (Or what should have been.) where the fender bolts up.
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Then I grabbed my handy slide hammer with my self made vise-grip attachment, locked it on & let er rip.
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Satisfied with the results, I went on the hunt for more trimmings to attach.
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Oh, well, that's enough fun for the day.


TDCTDI wrote:
Depending on the angle of attack, the nose very well could be shifted. Any hit to the front outer edge of a Beetle fender usually transfers to the body line where the rear of the fender attaches to the body which in turn makes a new crease about an inch further out.


You will need to determine the angle of the accident & pull the front in the opposite direction.

Before getting too involved , be sure to inspect the front beam & the pan head to determine if either or both of those were damaged.



Making Decisions on Ruby's Interior

Adriel Rowley wrote:
I have asked questions before in Ruby's build thread and have not gotten answers, though if separate, do, maybe because a build thread. However, if this is better to be in the build thread, then so be it. Regardless, onto the topic at hand.


I Was originally going to leave the interior alone and make slip covers for the vinyl seats. However, the headliner's age spots, even with aggressive/caustic chemicals, not lightening one bit, plus the glue has failed around the driver door, under the back window roasted, and stitching is failing. Both footwells have rust to be repaired and since the synthetic carpet is well glued, not seeing a way to save, besides has a lot of wear and lacks the padding in the back. Then all that is left is the cracked and faded vinyl...


Dad said the original carpet was grey and opressive, however, three greys in 1964. I have looked all over and not finding any information regarding carpet colour, was it not standardized?


I was originally thinking medium brown moleskin slip covers, as hard to find a wide range in that fabric type which go with the red paint and carpet, though now thinking be rid of the warn out vinyl and reupholster in the aforementioned cloth. If did go with medium brown, how about then the Volkswagen brown carpet?


How fade resistant is brown compared to grey? About the same?


Thank y'all for any input and help. Very Happy


mukluk wrote:
Adriel Rowley wrote:
Dad said the original carpet was grey and opressive, however, three greys in 1964. I have looked all over and not finding any information regarding carpet colour, was it not standardized?

Regardless what paint colour the car was, all 1964 models came with T305 grey-black carpet and grey-black mats.
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mukluk wrote:
The info has been available for a very long time, it's in the Paint/Upholstery link under the Technical tab, then 1961-66 Beetle Color Combinations.

Charcoal is probably the closest you're going to find to grey-black carpet.

No, not all small window Beetles had grey-black carpeting, other colours were available during other years. Keep in mind also that there was no such thing as fully carpeted from the factory until very late 60's or early 70's -- the main floor areas and tunnel had rubber mats, carpet only being on the wheel housings, heater channels, and forward firewall.


mukluk wrote:
Thought you might like to see what the original cloth and leatherette upholstery looked like from the brochure.
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An interior in shades of grey, black, and off-white can be a little "meh", but the red of the painted steel surfaces does liven things up in my opinion. A brown interior would also go well with the red if you wish, it's your call.
Wink


mukluk wrote:
With as easy as it is to remove and install the seats on these cars, don't discount the possibility the car's original '64 seats were swapped with ones from a '65 model -- these things do happen, especially with a salesman willing to accommodate the tastes of a customer to make a sale. I've read too many stories of cars bought new off the lot with non-year or model correct equipment to think it rarely happened.

Just to clarify a note from earlier, 1964 wasn't the only year to not have more than one carpet colour option: some years had more than one, others only one.

Quote:
Better than green!

I happen to like green. Laughing


rcooled wrote:
If you'd like to brighten up your car's interior a bit, have a look at what Sewfine offers. For the seats in my ruby red '63, I went with dark grey 'Xtreme' vinyl (#609), with a grey mix tweed (#622) seating surface and off-white (#029) piping.
The carpet is meduim-gray German square weave (#113863007) from Wolfsburg West.
The door panels and gray rubber floor mat are original to the car. The sisal floor mats came from Roadworks Auto.
https://sewfineproducts.com/Bug-Custom-Interiorshttp:
http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/index.cfm
http://www.roadworksauto.com/coco/volkswagen-coco-mats.htm

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60ragtop wrote:
WW oatmeal carpet
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Numbers

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EverettB wrote:
Did you mean to post this in your existing '64 Bug thread?
I think that is what you are talking about here but I feel like you could have posted more information for people to answer things.
Birth certificate, engine #, etc.

VIN # 6 046 975 looks to be mid-January, 1964 in the charts on this site.

I can't speak to the other stuff without seeing it.
Post the birth certificate - does it have the engine # on it?
The factory will verify the engine # is original when you do a birth certificate.
What's the engine #?


EverettB wrote:
Hopefully I get all these numbers and math right. Smile

First VIN # for January, 1964 is 6 016 121
Last VIN # is 6 092 060

6 092 060 - 6 016 121 = 75939 cars that month
75939 / 31 days = 2450 cars/day (rounded up)

Your VIN # minus the start of January:
6 046 975 - 6 016 121 = 30854
Your car was # 30,854 in January

30854 / 2450 = 13 (rounded up)

So built around January 13th but I don't think they worked 7 days/week so there is some leeway in there.

January, 1964 calendar
https://www.timeanddate.com/calendar/?country=1&year=1964

I agree 8 807 405 is July, 1964
It seems unlikely that is the original engine.


EverettB wrote:
Your rear axle is 6 496 969?

6 496 969 - 6 467 371 = 29598 not 62679

29598 / 4012 = 7.4 days

January 7th axle could match up with a January 10th car.
I don't know their lead time there but that sounds reasonable

Engine could have been replaced at any time.
The fact that it's the same year but a bit newer could be totally random


harrymarlin wrote:
Adriel Rowley wrote:
Looking online, suggests shipping time from Germany to Long Beach about two to three months, meaning, if left Germany mid January, be in Long Beach mid March to mid April.


I'd be interested in your shipping time research, as a previous thread I started suggested a couple of *weeks* to ship to the US:
joe h. wrote:
I have a letter from the factory regarding my car from the early 80's. It has some info that isn't commonly found on birth certs.
My car left the factory on Jan 7th 1954, and was delivered Jan 25th to Seattle. You can assume a few day for transport to the docks, and unloading. So about 15 days I would say.


From thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=716627&highlight=shipping

I'm not saying a three months is incorrect, but I am interested in where you found that information. I think they really wanted to move all of these cars quickly, as there was such a demand (and supply).


viiking wrote:
Probably on the showroom floor. Possibly a showroom car to show off the model or a customer demonstrator car or excess stock in the dealers.

My car was built in January(matching number car in the family since new) but not sold until October.


EverettB wrote:
viiking wrote:
Probably on the showroom floor. Possibly a showroom car to show off the model or a customer demonstrator car or excess stock in the dealers.


I had a '63 Notchback like that.
I'm not sure why but it wasn't sold for quite a while and the dealer even updated a bunch of stuff on it from 1963 to 1964 specs after the '64s came out.
I bought it from the original owner and he told me all the "upgrades" were how he bought it.

_________________
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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Adriel Rowley
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PostPosted: Sun Feb 23, 2020 1:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

toxicavenger70 wrote:
Are the pads evenly adjusted?


Shoes were all the way backed off. After adjusting to one and a half revolutions of the drum (just dragging and then backed off some), now only occasionally get uneven dragging from the right side. As I said, will leave and check it after driving (even own a temperature probe and infrared thermometer when thought going into the energy evaluation/HVAC field).
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Tue Feb 25, 2020 9:40 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Got some really fantastic news!


First, Wolfsburg West customer service person decided on his own that Dad's death was extenuating circumstances allow the return of the electrical fuel sender I accidentally thought was the mechanical, despite no returns over 30 days and no returns of anything electrical.


Second, did a rust treatment of the original German tank and the only leak I found was around the outlet! So, seems Rich's once again lied to make extra money and instead of sealing the outlet, replaced the whole damn tank. Poor Dad loathed that tank as the cap doesn't fit right and a fight to get it off and back on.


Today got two trusses of the shed completed. Started in, didn't like the design Brother demanded I use, so have ordered more conduit (as Special Needs had to pay). Was a trick getting it all together and square working by myself, the 16 foot long and two foot high trusses are just under a comfortable weight to carry. Should be fun setting them on the uprights, maybe see if the neighbor across the street can lend a hand for a few minutes. Feels so amazing to see a shed finally going up, been wanting one for about seven years. Not as big as wanted, though at least something. Also had to fish-mouth the bottom truss tubes, only have a Dremel, though does feel a lot stronger. Speaking of stronger, also put the top truss tube in slight tension.

Medical appointments again tomorrow and Thursday, so not sure a whole lot will get done.
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 29, 2020 1:00 pm    Post subject: No slot to stuff... Reply with quote

Seems these Volkswagen drums are an oddity, as no slot to make easier access to tap the bearing race out.

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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Sat Feb 29, 2020 2:42 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2020 1:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

And new bearing races dropped in, almost. Dropped in part way, then a couple taps with a socket, done. Just taking a deserved break while we both cool off (playing hot potato with brake drums is hot work).
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 01, 2020 6:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Decided the thrust washers are just too knackered for me to accept them considering the level of the project already done.

What took most and a lot of time was getting the adjusters apart and greased. After fighting the rear adjusters despite greasing the exposed threads and coming to my senses, realized the only reasonable thing to do.

This also resolves the situation a supposed friend not being open that his friend will not sell fuel pump diaphragms separate nor install in a pump I rebuilt, in that can offset some of the shipping cost with the purchase of the thrust washers and a set of outside mirrors (now knowing must pass inspection and doubt the current mirror come anywhere close to passing).
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2020 6:32 am    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

just checkin in with u. waiting for updates .
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2020 9:39 am    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

bad91teg wrote:
just checkin in with u. waiting for updates .


Appreciate you asking! Didn't think was worth it as not much done because bio "mother" came in last Sunday night, she just doesn't get how much we hate her because of what she has done and so insists we visit, and being good children do things with her. So, not a whole lot done, especially the two day trip Friday and Saturday. Neighbor and I early last week attempted to raise, though ran into a snag. Couldn't mesh our schedules, so gave time for me to toss down a concrete skim coat over the caleche, just enough to level the surface. I don't care what it looks like and since took way longer mixing one wheelbarrow load at a time, wasn't done until Thursday at dark and had to take her to dinner, meaning, no tarp got put down to keep the concrete damp. Still need to find what happened to the canvas drop cloth order and order the canvas wax. Can't wait for her to leave!
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Sun Mar 08, 2020 1:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

dude too funny . I hear ya . Very Happy
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2020 2:02 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Some reason didn’t get notified of the reply.

bad91teg wrote:
dude too funny . I hear ya . Very Happy


I assume mean about bio “mother”? Well, finally gone back to California, wahoo!🕺(Dancing to “Staying Alive.”)

Finally remembered to get a picture...
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Somehow ended up with one lump, clueless as raked it all smooth. Oh well, if some reason bothers me can always knock it down. At least not working in the dirt or weeds.
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 10, 2020 4:09 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

yep was talking about "mother " .lol. big step there getting a spot designated for the bug . I can see that motivating you even more . that's gonna be a good pic seeing the bug in the new spot . Applause
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2020 8:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

First no notification (box is checked) and then the reply disappeared, let's see if this works.
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https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Wed Mar 11, 2020 8:21 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

bad91teg wrote:
yep was talking about "mother " .lol. big step there getting a spot designated for the bug . I can see that motivating you even more . that's gonna be a good pic seeing the bug in the new spot . Applause


The pad was dug for a foundation last fall, Brother changed the rules and said nothing permanent. Why did a skim coat as can just cover it with soil and doubt look inside. Still haven't seen my neighbor, maybe have to raise the frame myself.

Yesterday and today taken up with the Social Security Supplemental Income hearing, judgement will be in a few months. Also, lots of rain, back was flooded, though means could finally pull the weeds out front.

Wolfsburg somehow switched orders, replacement will be here Thursday at the soonest, so nothing to do inside until comes, hopefully wrong about rain the next two days so can get her front wheels back on the ground.
_________________
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Fri Mar 13, 2020 11:54 am    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Decided after much debate with myself (as none other critiqued), decided on the interior and sent Sewfine the email with. The interior will be:
Wolfsburg West stock cards
Brown square weave carpet
Flannel tweed fronts
And brown vinyl backs and piping.

Don't think Dad like how dark, though right now I am the custodian and prefer, the next custodian can decide if to his/her tastes.
_________________
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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