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Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle
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toxicavenger70
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2023 3:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Pruneman99 wrote:
concerned about the condition of the camshaft. The pictures make it look beat to crap.


Looks like peanut brittle.
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Adriel Rowley
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2023 8:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Pruneman99 wrote:
Yes, the 1mm is the minimum clearance needed. More is no problem. In a stock rebuild its never an issue (at least that I've seen). The minimum spec is there when you are using a higher lift cam, or possibly a lifter that has a bevel that doesn't match the case bevel. ACN used to rent a cutter you can slide in the lifter bore to cut the bevel deeper if there wasn't enough space. If the cam were to jam the lifter into the case, the liter bore would be blown out


Thank you for coming back and clarifying.

Pruneman99 wrote:
[...]I'd be more concerned about the condition of the camshaft. The pictures make it look beat to crap.


Pruneman99 wrote:
Yours is good to go. However, the cam looks really bad in the pictures. Idk if that was just a mockup cam, or one you were intending to use.


Well, a gift from someone who should know if useable or not, it is covered in a thick, sticky, grease. Can clean and show you, seems there is care, to remove seeming concern.
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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Pruneman99
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2023 8:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Oh, if that's just some sort of grease making it look like that, that's fine. Just make sure the lobes are smooth. What I was seeing as smeared metal is probably just the grease.

Sometimes a picture can be deceiving.
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2023 8:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Donald took me and pup (he is a SD) over to church and I used the bench vice to safely trim the battery tray. Then at home used a grinding wheel, barely taking anything off. So, put the cut off disk on, then the sanding disk (somewhat flexible), and worked far better.
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Of course twice while with me, Donald had to complain about how slow I am moving. Don't understand why he feels doing so is showing care and how he thinks possible to go faster. To me, feels like he is a parent trying to keep his child in line. What I like to know is his reference, if still building a computer, got to wonder about his cognitive ability (not being mean, rather, concerned).

Plan is to get all the patches ready to fit, then weld. My concern is forgetting to turn off the gas. As y'all can see I am still having trouble with clarity. And maybe like a dear friend said: CRT - Can’t Remember Sh*t.
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2023 8:47 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Pruneman99 wrote:
Oh, if that's just some sort of grease making it look like that, that's fine. Just make sure the lobes are smooth. What I was seeing as smeared metal is probably just the grease.

Sometimes a picture can be deceiving.


Thank you! Very Happy
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2023 10:26 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

It you are afraid of forgetting about the gas, use a rubber band.

Let me explain.

After forgetting to turn the gas off, and losing an entire bottle of argon mix, I used to put a thick rubber band on the gas valve. Take the rubber band off the valve, put it on your wrist when you open the valve. When you shut the valve off, put the rubber band back on the tank.

So if you make it back to the house, and still have the rubber band on your wrist, you KNOW you forgot to turn the gas off. If it's gone, you don't second guess yourself at 1am if you remembered or not.
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2023 7:54 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Pruneman99 wrote:
It you are afraid of forgetting about the gas, use a rubber band.

Let me explain.

After forgetting to turn the gas off, and losing an entire bottle of argon mix, I used to put a thick rubber band on the gas valve. Take the rubber band off the valve, put it on your wrist when you open the valve. When you shut the valve off, put the rubber band back on the tank.

So if you make it back to the house, and still have the rubber band on your wrist, you KNOW you forgot to turn the gas off. If it's gone, you don't second guess yourself at 1am if you remembered or not.


Thank you, that is brilliant! Very Happy I will certainly do this, maybe do this for the industrial iron (I once left it on for a day and a half and now the solder for the light is loose).
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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Adriel Rowley
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PostPosted: Fri Jan 13, 2023 8:43 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

My energy and motivation has improved, as comfortably able to work on Ruby after supper. Very Happy

The replacement bulb and Belmetric order both came today. I might have gone a little nutty. Razz
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So after the afternoon church event, put away all the hardware, put the spades in the tool box for electrical work, and re-did a couple crimps (one came off), then a late supper.

Then after supper, added the parking lamp spades. These German brass spade connectors are so much better and easier to use than the American steel spades. Get what you pay for, though didn't cost all that much more.
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Of course missed shrink tubing one connection, thankfully found out a heat gun can shrink tubing enough to fit a tube over a spade, rather than having to cut it off.
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Then the replacement headlight bulb into the reflector, then install the headlights.
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Of course new rubber seals.
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And with the previously installed turn signal, looking good, though odd with the bright chrome on patina.
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And for those who just can't get enough of me, here is why I feel so good having these headlights in.

Back in about 1997, I went out before Dad, he was taking me to class, and stunned to find Ruby's headlights had been stolen in the night. Ran in the house and yelling, told Dad (I was also upset, fallen in love with Ruby). Man he was so upset, worse when found the tail lamps also had been stolen.

Now all that is over and Ruby has Hella headlights.
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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Adriel Rowley
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2023 5:10 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

First, what is the protocol on responding to receiving a tank of weld gas with a trashed valve?

The handle is partly stripped and takes a lot of force to shut it off (took using a large pair of slip joint pliers and force to get it open the first time), plus the valve is finicky, so hard to adjust flow and changes flow as welding (regulator is just a twist knob).

Tried to install the license plate, didn't cross my mind getting exact size hardware present a challenge, hand pressed copper plate so should have expected it.
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Are my scraps of a benefit to someone else or toss in the recycle?
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Then set up the welder, not easy when the amount of gas keeps changing. Finally getting a really nice weld, then the wire jammed. Turns out when wound the wire got forced into the edge of the spool, bound, then welded the wire up the tip and into the handle, had to cut some of the sheathing off. Ended up fighting with it for about an hour, feel this weird ability to feel frustration coming much sooner and of course take breaks, feels surreal. Makes me wonder about the testosterone.
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This is the second time this happened, worse than before.
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2023 7:11 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Reduce your drive roller tension, you should be able to put your gloved hand against the torch tip and stop the feed while the roller keeps turning. Also ensure that your wire, roller, liner, and tip are all matched. A dirty or tightly curved hose/liner can also cause wire binding, but reduce the drive roller tension to stop the bird-caging.

Also, too much heat or too slow a feed can cause burn-back to the tip like that, as well as holding the torch too close to your workpiece.
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2023 7:44 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Busstom, appreciate the help, thank you. Very Happy

Busstom wrote:
Reduce your drive roller tension, you should be able to put your gloved hand against the torch tip and stop the feed while the roller keeps turning.


I did, then it wouldn't feed as the wire was caught on the roll. Finally dawned on me unspool until wants to fling off. Great knowing how to set the pressure.

Busstom wrote:
Also ensure that your wire, roller, liner, and tip are all matched. A dirty or tightly curved hose/liner can also cause wire binding, but reduce the drive roller tension to stop the bird-caging.


They mostly are, couldn't find 0.24" wire locally, only 0.23" and the only available tips are 0.24"

Before I start welding, I lay out everything and be sure the liner can reach, also not making sharp bends, which meant pushing Ruby further into the garage (outlet is on the back wall and prefer not using an extension cord, concerns me being about half as thick as the attached cord).

Busstom wrote:
Also, too much heat or too slow a feed can cause burn-back to the tip like that, as well as holding the torch too close to your workpiece.


Is there a way to modify to obtain variable voltage rather than three settings? Wish had known how three settings mean poor weld temperature, either too cold or usually too hot.

I had to turn down the feed as instantly blowing through the original floor pan, even clean metal, on the lowest setting.

If need the power to come down so can turn up the feed, scrounge up an extension cord and reduce the current going to the welder.

By the way, the piece of junk welder is a Hobart Handler 125. When bought it didn't know Hobart's quality had tanked.
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Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.

Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Sat Jan 14, 2023 8:12 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Man, I'm sorry to hear that, I have a Handler 140 in my fleet and it works really well.

So there are two tensions for the wire; first, you need adequate tension on the wire spool against the inside of the machine compartment, or it will indeed unroll on you, as you stated. But the wire-feed drive roller with the grooves for different wire sizes, that's the one I'm referring to that can cause bird-caging (or bird nesting as some refer to it) if it's too tight...it also loads the drive motor if set too tightly. I'll admit, even with my Handler, it's a bit of a balancing act between spool tension and drive roll tension to get it just right.

The .023 wire and .024 tip are not a problem, that's fine. Also sounds like you're keeping things unwound and straight as possible, which is good. Sometimes when working with thin metals, a welding machine with infinite voltage setting is preferred so that you can dial in the heat.

Also, old rusty/contaminated wire can be a problem, but I doubt that's your case.

Are you using flux core? I can't tell by the pic. It looks like you're in the flux core groove on the drive roll. (Maybe you're not, I just took a closer look. The flux groove is the ribbed one.)

Not to knock your skills, but have you had an experienced welder try out your machine to prove it out and make sure everything is set up correctly? For what it's worth, welding thin sheet can be tricky, but at this point, it doesn't look like your Handler is a dog, I'd try and find someone experienced to have a look and put it through its paces.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2023 1:01 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Busstom wrote:
Man, I'm sorry to hear that, I have a Handler 140 in my fleet and it works really well.

So there are two tensions for the wire; first, you need adequate tension on the wire spool against the inside of the machine compartment, or it will indeed unroll on you, as you stated. But the wire-feed drive roller with the grooves for different wire sizes, that's the one I'm referring to that can cause bird-caging (or bird nesting as some refer to it) if it's too tight...it also loads the drive motor if set too tightly. I'll admit, even with my Handler, it's a bit of a balancing act between spool tension and drive roll tension to get it just right.


You are totally not understanding me, sure wish that elderly lady had seen the traffic ahead, wouldn't be wasting people's time because unable to communicate.

When the wire was being wound on the spool at the factory, the spool near full, the wire instead of laying on top of the previously wound instead got wedged between the plastic flange and the wire already on the spool. Meaning, if released the end of the wire, the wire would not come off the spool.

Because it was so stuck, the drive motor could no longer pull it. What I did was leave the end in the sheath, then freed the wire on the spool until was wanting to let go. Meaning, at that point if released the end, unlike before, it would unwind off the spool.

So, I hear the motor and the wire was going fast, so move closer. Now I understand this meant welding the wire into the nozzle, in the future need to keep a listen and if the motor is straining, then time to fight with the spool again.

Busstom wrote:
The .023 wire and .024 tip are not a problem, that's fine. Also sounds like you're keeping things unwound and straight as possible, which is good. Sometimes when working with thin metals, a welding machine with infinite voltage setting is preferred so that you can dial in the heat.

Also, old rusty/contaminated wire can be a problem, but I doubt that's your case.


I will keep my eye out, the welder lives in the garage and we been having really wet weather, good to know.

Busstom wrote:
Are you using flux core? I can't tell by the pic. It looks like you're in the flux core groove on the drive roll. (Maybe you're not, I just took a closer look. The flux groove is the ribbed one.)


Interesting, why would someone use flux core with gas?

The machine came with flux core IIRC. I used it for one patch and made such a mess, realized gas is the only way to weld, unless out where there is a breeze or stronger. I thought had changed everything over, will double check, thanks.

Busstom wrote:
Not to knock your skills, but have you had an experienced welder try out your machine to prove it out and make sure everything is set up correctly? For what it's worth, welding thin sheet can be tricky, but at this point, it doesn't look like your Handler is a dog, I'd try and find someone experienced to have a look and put it through its paces.


I barely have skills, entirely self taught with a few videos and only welded galvanized conduit, filled pinholes in a floorpan (so know I can weld floorpan with the welder and myself), and a couple patches.

Only know of one person who lives in Arizona who is on theSamba, believe on the west side which is a solid hour drive from the east side where I am at. There has been many times where I needed help and since the only one with a Volkswagen out here, all on my own.
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2023 1:39 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

I hear you, sometimes I have to unwind a bunch of new wire for some reason to get down a ways to where it's coming off smoothly. Glad yer dialed with the wire size/roller groove and gas.

Keep at it, my point about the Handler is, it's easy to blame the welding machine when things aren't going right. Being self-taught with so little experience under your belt, I can see the frustration. But I got my Handler 140 just a couple years ago for smaller jobs, and the quality is top-notch. So I don't know what you mean when you say Hobart's quality tanked. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you Wink
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2023 1:50 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

I feel your pain on welding skills.
I've been working on engine tins lately, and it has been an interesting experience.

I have learned that, if you're wire is burning back to the tip inside the cup. Your wire feed is too slow. Turn it up a little at a time.
Small moves of the dial make a difference when getting your wire feed speed set correctly.

Ideally, the correct settings will deliver a constant "crrrrrrrrr" kinda sound.
If you're getting a snap, "crrr", snap sound. Your settings are incorrect.
Whoever said sizzling bacon is the correct sound, doesn't really have a handle on their welding process.
Bacon makes allot of popping sounds when you're cooking it. For a correct welding sound example. It's completely incorrect.

One thing in my recent tin welding, I noticed. Once you have the torch working correctly, make a tack and move the torch, make another and move again.
Ideally, you should make your next tack/weld just as the glow from the previous tack/weld faded to dark. If that makes sense. It depends on the ambient background lighting, to be able to see the glow.
It seems that the heated torch functions better than a cold one.

Make sure that the pieces that you are welding are clean and paint/rust free. Otherwise you have contamination issues and will not be able to achieve clean/sound welds.

If I haven't done any welding in a while. I use a scrap piece of the same thickness metal to make a few practice weld on to get the settings correct and retrain my trembling hands again. Shocked
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2023 1:55 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Pruneman99 wrote:
It you are afraid of forgetting about the gas, use a rubber band.

Let me explain.

After forgetting to turn the gas off, and losing an entire bottle of argon mix, I used to put a thick rubber band on the gas valve. Take the rubber band off the valve, put it on your wrist when you open the valve. When you shut the valve off, put the rubber band back on the tank.

So if you make it back to the house, and still have the rubber band on your wrist, you KNOW you forgot to turn the gas off. If it's gone, you don't second guess yourself at 1am if you remembered or not.



This would have saved me a tank of gas. d'oh!. Great idea.
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2023 2:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Similar story.

My dear old Dad would tie a knot in his handkerchief (when they were in vogue and men wore hats and opened doors for ladies) to remind him to not forget to do something. Unfortunately when I asked him what the knot was for he’d often reply “I can’t remember now!”…😞
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2023 2:05 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Busstom wrote:
I hear you, sometimes I have to unwind a bunch of new wire for some reason to get down a ways to where it's coming off smoothly.


Okay, good to know, thought because made in Vietnam. Though I have heard their manufacturing is good, my MTM button up shirts are made there and good quality. Should be an interesting future with China government keeping factories closed.

Busstom wrote:
Glad yer dialed with the wire size/roller groove and gas.


Not sure why say this, as I said in the initial post, walked away before checked as didn't feel could continue (a bit tired and low blood sugar (hypoglycemic)). Worked out as because of the generous help from you, know to turn the wire speed up.

Busstom wrote:
Keep at it, my point about the Handler is, it's easy to blame the welding machine when things aren't going right. Being self-taught with so little experience under your belt, I can see the frustration.


I don't think I am frustrated, just puzzled by the gap between one and two on the voltage. Logic seems to suggest each of the three is for a common thickness of steel, though most of the world is illogical. Wink

Busstom wrote:
But I got my Handler 140 just a couple years ago for smaller jobs, and the quality is top-notch. So I don't know what you mean when you say Hobart's quality tanked. Maybe I'm misunderstanding you Wink


Can't believe everything you hear. Wink

So if have the 140, then what settings are you using for 18 gauge/1,2mm, like the floor pans, please?
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Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2023 2:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Adriel Rowley wrote:

Then after supper, added the parking lamp spades. These German brass spade connectors are so much better and easier to use than the American steel spades. Get what you pay for, though didn't cost all that much more.
Image may have been reduced in size. Click image to view fullscreen.


Next replenishment I will look for the German brass connectors.

I have made a lot of connections, wiring cars, boat, campers, etc., etc. But I never never had one look as nice as that one in your picture.

Could you describe your method, and tools used?

By the way, I think the shiny chrome lights on the patina paint fits right in with today's patina trends, looks good.
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1966 Sportsmobile Camper https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...mp;start=0
72 Super Duper http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=672387
(adopted out) 61 Turkis Pile https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=728764
SnowDaySyncro wrote:
Every setback is an opportunity to learn stuff and to buy new tools.
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Adriel Rowley
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PostPosted: Sun Jan 15, 2023 2:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle Reply with quote

Thank you '67 RA, the help is appreciated. Very Happy

67rustavenger wrote:
I feel your pain on welding skills.
I've been working on engine tins lately, and it has been an interesting experience.


Believe it or not, my personality enjoys some difficulty, solving challenges and puzzles is fun, especially when someone says you can't. So, I don't feel pain or frustration.

I also try really, really, hard to have self awareness (something not easy or automatic) and when I am frustrated or keep making mistakes, force myself to walk away. I am blessed to have not just one, though two, dogs to help with this and keep calm. Daithi if serious enough and I am working at a table or on the computer, will jump up and stand or sit on the project or keyboard (don't think it was designed to take 50 pound dog though) and Shadow will get between me and the project and push me away. In fact, the other day, Shadow added a new one: insisted on going on a walk, took me part way to realize he recognized I was still getting over an Autism pre meltdown.

By the way, this is why include them in pictures, deserve some credit. Wink

67rustavenger wrote:
I have learned that, if you're wire is burning back to the tip inside the cup. Your wire feed is too slow. Turn it up a little at a time.
Small moves of the dial make a difference when getting your wire feed speed set correctly.


Okay.

67rustavenger wrote:
Ideally, the correct settings will deliver a constant "crrrrrrrrr" kinda sound.
If you're getting a snap, "crrr", snap sound. Your settings are incorrect.
Whoever said sizzling bacon is the correct sound, doesn't really have a handle on their welding process.
Bacon makes allot of popping sounds when you're cooking it. For a correct welding sound example. It's completely incorrect.


Yes, know what you mean and a beautiful sound. Think trying to describe a sizzle. Maybe water on a hot skillet come closer, doesn't pop like grease or oil.

Oh, and I generally observe the food laws, exception being clam chowder and over at friends. So, never have cooked bacon myself, nor Oma cook it.

67rustavenger wrote:
One thing in my recent tin welding, I noticed. Once you have the torch working correctly, make a tack and move the torch, make another and move again.
Ideally, you should make your next tack/weld just as the glow from the previous tack/weld faded to dark. If that makes sense. It depends on the ambient background lighting, to be able to see the glow.
It seems that the heated torch functions better than a cold one.


Interesting.

I normally don't do tacks as can't see where the last one was as the glass is still dark. Make a short line, then move to the other side, going back and forth.

67rustavenger wrote:
Make sure that the pieces that you are welding are clean and paint/rust free. Otherwise you have contamination issues and will not be able to achieve clean/sound welds.


Yep, there is the other reason welding floor pans is more challenging, will never get all the converted rust off, always be a speck. You know when get a pop.

All I am looking for is if a 300 hulk stood on the floor not going to break a weld. I prefer pretty welds, however, know with old metal far less likely.

67rustavenger wrote:
If I haven't done any welding in a while. I use a scrap piece of the same thickness metal to make a few practice weld on to get the settings correct and retrain my trembling hands again. Shocked


Yes, been a year or two. Do have a little scrap, will do some practice.

How the heck you weld with tremors? Shocked Opa had to give up watercoloring so that is my bias.
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Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.

Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810

1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation
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