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Adriel Rowley
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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
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Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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 Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2022 2:06 pm Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle |
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| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
| As an INTJ, our desire for understanding and knowledge can come off as argumentative, so please know my intent is not to come across augmentative. Additionally, I am appreciative for this discussion, thank you. |
Hey, no problem!
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
Where would I get a free lathe that big and where in this 800 square foot apartment would I put it?  |
One could even make something out of an old washer machine, but if you are not going to start doing a crankshaft per week, then probably best to just have a shop do it.
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
On the pressure plate. The grooves are in part wear indicators, right? |
The springs will give out before enough wear in the friction surface gets too much.
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
Guess then the solution is try and keep below 3,000RPM.
If a reground crankshaft is $200, a counterbalanced has to be very expensive.
The budget for this build is $1,500, was hoping a budget of $1,000 like the previous engine, however, prices have increased in the intervening 15 years or so. |
$290 for 69mm with counterweights, so would guess 64mm would be about the same. Again if you are not going to do a lot of miles or long trips......
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
Oh? Why?
Volkswagen says otherwise.
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Of course VW said otherwise, they were selling cars, and having to compete with cars that had automatic transmissions. So telling customers that you did not need to be exacting in gearshifts at certain RPMs, and just treat it like a slushbox increased the chance for another customer. Driving in fourth gear at 25 MPH is going to lug the engine. That means the crankshaft pounds into the bearings ruining them far sooner than later. As long as you were past the measly warranty that was something like 12,000 miles was VWs aim. So when the engine locked up or it no longer could climb that hill like it used to at 30,000 to 40,000 miles it was so sad for the owner and $$$ in the pockets of the dealer and VW corp for fixing, rebuilding or a new off the shelf engine. Plus if the VW did not need all four forward gears they could have saved huge $$$ by deleting just 3rd gear.
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
| With the increase in the crankshaft pulley the ratio increases so the fan speed has increased, though by how much I am unable to find as not finding solid evidence and physics was not a strong suit. There are antidotal claims the smaller pulley is about 1.8 to 2.0:1. In the end, probably the best is to install a temperature gauge and occasionally monitor it. |
It is more like 1.8 to 1 for the small pulley. Easy enough to mark lines on the crank and gen pulleys and see how many turns it takes to line them up again. Exactly! Gauges and put the miles on it.
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Adriel Rowley
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Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2022 3:47 pm Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle |
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| Eric&Barb wrote: |
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
On the pressure plate. The grooves are in part wear indicators, right? |
The springs will give out before enough wear in the friction surface gets too much. |
And how does one determine if the springs are nearing the end of their life?
| Eric&Barb wrote: |
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
Guess then the solution is try and keep below 3,000RPM.
If a reground crankshaft is $200, a counterbalanced has to be very expensive.
The budget for this build is $1,500, was hoping a budget of $1,000 like the previous engine, however, prices have increased in the intervening 15 years or so. |
$290 for 69mm with counterweights, so would guess 64mm would be about the same. Again if you are not going to do a lot of miles or long trips...... |
What is the difference between a lot of miles and long trips?
| Eric&Barb wrote: |
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
Oh? Why?
Volkswagen says otherwise.
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Of course VW said otherwise, they were selling cars, and having to compete with cars that had automatic transmissions. So telling customers that you did not need to be exacting in gearshifts at certain RPMs, and just treat it like a slushbox increased the chance for another customer. Driving in fourth gear at 25 MPH is going to lug the engine. That means the crankshaft pounds into the bearings ruining them far sooner than later. As long as you were past the measly warranty that was something like 12,000 miles was VWs aim. So when the engine locked up or it no longer could climb that hill like it used to at 30,000 to 40,000 miles it was so sad for the owner and $$$ in the pockets of the dealer and VW corp for fixing, rebuilding or a new off the shelf engine. Plus if the VW did not need all four forward gears they could have saved huge $$$ by deleting just 3rd gear. |
This does not answer the question of why one absolutely must shift at 3,500RPM and drive at that RPM.
Regarding lugging, there is this:
| Sodo wrote: |
| You can use "half of your normal high RPM shift point" as a general guideline. |
So that mean 1750RPM is the absolute minimum, right? Then you are right about the engine lugging in second gear. Not that I would shift that low, of course since stated 2500RPM.
| Eric&Barb wrote: |
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
| With the increase in the crankshaft pulley the ratio increases so the fan speed has increased, though by how much I am unable to find as not finding solid evidence and physics was not a strong suit. There are antidotal claims the smaller pulley is about 1.8 to 2.0:1. In the end, probably the best is to install a temperature gauge and occasionally monitor it. |
It is more like 1.8 to 1 for the small pulley. Easy enough to mark lines on the crank and gen pulleys and see how many turns it takes to line them up again. Exactly! Gauges and put the miles on it. |
Duh, maybe I will if have the time, right now on the verge of being overwhelmed.
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
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Adriel Rowley
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Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Oct 19, 2022 4:03 pm Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle |
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Shifting at 10MPH, 20MPH, 30MPH, and 45MPH interestingly gives 2300RPM.
Most of the speed limits here are 35MPH and 45MPH, so that mean 2700RPM in third and 2300RPM in forth, not near the 3000RPM.
As I understand, this means the number two bearing is not at risk with a non-counterweighted crankshaft. My logical mind is now satisfied.  And I know far better how to shift.
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
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Eric&Barb
Samba Member
Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 24736
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2022 2:56 pm Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle |
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| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
And how does one determine if the springs are nearing the end of their life? |
When the clutch slips is the only indicator. Have had well over 100,000 miles with the original VW nine spring 200mm rebuilt PPs, and less than a month with a 180mm Brazilian new made diaphragm type clutch.
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
What is the difference between a lot of miles and long trips? |
One can put a lot of miles thru short trips around town this in a lot of ways puts less pressure on the engine since it does not hold a high MPH range for long duration. Long trips means more likely high MPH travel that does not have a lot of stops or slow downs to let an engine cool down if pushed too much. We know of one instance where an older lady bought a brand new beetle in the late 1970s, and only drove in town. About 30,000 miles later she decided to drive on the highway to visit a friend well outside of town. Engine locked up and upon rebuilding it for the first time it turned out the dog house oil cooler stand was not drilled thru in one of the passages. Oil cooler did not have a drop of oil in it.....
Also with short trips one is not likely going to notice how badly an engine is balanced. No long trip exposure means not experiencing fatigue due to cabin noise caused by this.
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
This does not answer the question of why one absolutely must shift at 3,500RPM and drive at that RPM. |
15, 30, & 45 MPH shown in the owners manual in the first three forward gears will be at 3,000 RPM. 4th at 68 MPH is going to be about 3,800 RPM.
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
So that mean 1750RPM is the absolute minimum, right? Then you are right about the engine lugging in second gear. Not that I would shift that low, of course since stated 2500RPM. |
With exception of first and reverse, would not go below 1,500 RPM. In some exceptions would go higher than that for short bursts if say towing or loaded heavily and going up a steep hill into a strong head wind. Then one needs to go up higher than 3,000 RPM to end up higher than 1,500 in the next higher gear.
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
Duh, maybe I will if have the time, right now on the verge of being overwhelmed. |
Again, no worries! It is not like you can not change the crankshaft pulley later to check each size.
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Adriel Rowley
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Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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| Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2022 4:23 pm Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle |
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| Eric&Barb wrote: |
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
And how does one determine if the springs are nearing the end of their life? |
When the clutch slips is the only indicator. Have had well over 100,000 miles with the original VW nine spring 200mm rebuilt PPs, and less than a month with a 180mm Brazilian new made diaphragm type clutch. |
Guess then once the engine is rebuilt see if have the funds for a replacement, if not, may be pulling the engine a short time later.
| Eric&Barb wrote: |
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
What is the difference between a lot of miles and long trips? |
One can put a lot of miles thru short trips around town this in a lot of ways puts less pressure on the engine since it does not hold a high MPH range for long duration. Long trips means more likely high MPH travel that does not have a lot of stops or slow downs to let an engine cool down if pushed too much. We know of one instance where an older lady bought a brand new beetle in the late 1970s, and only drove in town. About 30,000 miles later she decided to drive on the highway to visit a friend well outside of town. Engine locked up and upon rebuilding it for the first time it turned out the dog house oil cooler stand was not drilled thru in one of the passages. Oil cooler did not have a drop of oil in it..... |
That makes a lot of sense, thank you for the explanation. 
I figure on the maximum being about 25 miles, which get me all the way across the valley, something I very rarely do (have not been out there in over six years). I would have to take surface streets as the 101, 202, and especially the 10 most folks are doing over 70MPH and I am not going to be like Dad and obstruct traffic (even on the California freeways he do no more than 45MPH, at times terrifying). Instead, if still have it, take ParaTransit as costs $8.00 cash round trip, anywhere in the county.
Side note, not sure I can still do solo road trips, especially in an older vehicle with all the noise, which can be over stimulating. I really miss it, however, once gotten into my 30s, I have a different view of taking care of the dog(s) and me.
That is amazing somehow a faulty oil cooler made it out of the factory and that the engine did not overheat without it, until under strenuous load. Times are different, now there be a big lawsuit. Bummer for her, at least back then folks helped each other out.
| Eric&Barb wrote: |
| Also with short trips one is not likely going to notice how badly an engine is balanced. No long trip exposure means not experiencing fatigue due to cabin noise caused by this. |
I had not thought of the imbalance causing more noise, can you please explain how this is?
By the way, added two layers of sound deadening between the cabin and the engine, plus a thermal paint; doors, floors, roof, quarter panels, and wheel wells will have thermal paint plus a layer of sound deadening. By the way, can't get over how wonderful the sound of the doors closing and opening is (before there was no sound deadening, even the factory tar boards).
| Eric&Barb wrote: |
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
This does not answer the question of why one absolutely must shift at 3,500RPM and drive at that RPM. |
15, 30, & 45 MPH shown in the owners manual in the first three forward gears will be at 3,000 RPM. 4th at 68 MPH is going to be about 3,800 RPM. |
Clearly that is the maximum, as it is dash than the number, plus the RPMs at those speeds: 15MPH is 3300RPM, 30MPH 3600RPM, 45MPH 3440RPM, and 68MPH 3500RPM. Volkswagen claims a maximum speed of 72MPH, which is 3710RPM, so there is no way about 3500RPM is the middle of the range, that be 7000RPM for 135.87MPH. Additionally, none of these are the formerly stated must shift at 3500RPM except into fourth.
| Eric&Barb wrote: |
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
So that mean 1750RPM is the absolute minimum, right? Then you are right about the engine lugging in second gear. Not that I would shift that low, of course since stated 2500RPM. |
With exception of first and reverse, would not go below 1,500 RPM. In some exceptions would go higher than that for short bursts if say towing or loaded heavily and going up a steep hill into a strong head wind. Then one needs to go up higher than 3,000 RPM to end up higher than 1,500 in the next higher gear. |
I appreciate knowing this, thank you.
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
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Eric&Barb
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Joined: September 19, 2004
Posts: 24736
Location: Olympia Wash Rinse & Repeat
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| Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2022 5:06 pm Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle |
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| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
I had not thought of the imbalance causing more noise, can you please explain how this is?
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Any vibration at the engine/transaxle while lessened by things like the rubber transaxle mounts is still going to get into the chassi and body. Any interior panel vibrating makes for noise like a speaker cone does.
Seen a nice 1967 beetle that had a thin line of rust running horizontal near the top of each of the doors. Turned out that the DPO had installed sound deadening inside each door, and a thin line of dirt/dust had collected there at the top, to in turn hold a line of moisture to rust thru the door outer metal panels...
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Adriel Rowley
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Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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| Posted: Thu Oct 20, 2022 6:20 pm Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle |
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| Eric&Barb wrote: |
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
I had not thought of the imbalance causing more noise, can you please explain how this is?
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Any vibration at the engine/transaxle while lessened by things like the rubber transaxle mounts is still going to get into the chassi and body. Any interior panel vibrating makes for noise like a speaker cone does. |
Hmmm, wonder then with the same engine clearances, how much more the crankshaft would move and what noise level. Makes me wish Dad was still alive, he truly would know to at least find the answer.
As to the metal vibrating, this is why I mentioned how many panels are weighted. That ceramic paint certainly adds mass on top of the sound deadening.
Oh and Competition Engineering pointed out the valve train be noticeably quieter with the camshaft bearings then without.
| Eric&Barb wrote: |
| Seen a nice 1967 beetle that had a thin line of rust running horizontal near the top of each of the doors. Turned out that the DPO had installed sound deadening inside each door, and a thin line of dirt/dust had collected there at the top, to in turn hold a line of moisture to rust thru the door outer metal panels... |
Yep, good to know my suspicion is correct. I kept the sound deadening about one centimeter from the bottom of the doors and quarter panels. I also was very careful when using the thermal coating not to plug the drain holes.
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
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Adriel Rowley
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Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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| Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2022 12:36 pm Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle |
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Yesterday morning Robert shared these pictures and let me know the manifold was ready, I paid, he shipped, and supposedly be here on the 15th (day after Dad's Birthday and day before Oma's). As we can see, a lot of work went into refurbishing this D manifold.
After which, my friend took me to the storage unit to pick up a few things, then went to European Machine and picked up the heads and the crankshaft. I highly recommend, really appreciate the folks who recommend them!
Today finally got to Ruby and got a few things done:
Heater cables completely installed ready to connect to heater boxes, which required fabricating a new pin out of 4mm stainless (in transport I lost it and wasn't willing to spend over $50 to replace the whole assembly especially the rod was a few dollars)
Explored polishing the window trim (will have to be sanded, though not much)
In the process of trying to find the headlight bulb, found an inexpensive 6 volt flasher relay that Dad saved from the 12 volt conversion and installed it
Plus found the previous front seat belts with the thread adapters.
I did forget to get measurements of the interior, hopefully saying it I will remember to get them tomorrow.
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
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matthew henricks
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Joined: January 02, 2002
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Location: So. Cal
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KTPhil 
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Posts: 34003
Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2022 2:55 pm Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle |
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I have used flat high heat primer (2000F), then a high heat grey. The heat riser section peeled anyway.
I have a NOS unit that just has grey primer, but some surface rust spots. I am thinking I'll just add my flat high heat primer, no top coat. It won't have stock gloss, but it may avoid peeling/discoloration. Maybe I'll top coat just the intake portion, and leave the heat riser portion flat hi-temp. |
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matthew henricks
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Joined: January 02, 2002
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Location: So. Cal
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| Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2022 4:46 pm Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle |
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| KTPhil wrote: |
| I have used flat high heat primer (2000F) |
Thank you KTPhil. Hate to shatter your plans but that High Temp primer is what i used. I accepted the dull color as not ideal but... It burned within 30 minutes of running. Surface was sand blasted clean to start with. You can see it below. Right side.
I cleaned out my heat riser too so i know it is not blocked. Only burned on one side. Other side is fine. (I am sure someone will point out that the flow is one way in the heat riser and that is normal.) Frustrating.
Being in So. Cal i have thought about simply blocking it off as it does not get cold enough anyways but...
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1964 Original Owner build Thread. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=702135&highlight=
Ambulance Fan's. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=627707&highlight=
Parts i am looking for:
64 bug nice used front/rear Black LHD floor mat. |
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KTPhil
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Location: Conejo Valley, CA
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| Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2022 4:53 pm Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle |
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Bummer. But I haven't seen a working heat riser that still has good paint in all my 45 years of working on them!
You want to keep them working and not block them off. They reduce carb/manifold icing, which doesn't required cold weather, just a high dew point, which get in 3 of our 4 seasons. The evaporating fuel in the manifold chills it enough to make it sweat on the outside, and even form ice while running. It often melts by the time you pull over and have a look, so you don't see "icing."
In Muir's Idiot Book, he says to clear them, so he thought it important, and he was in dry and hot New Mexico much of his time. But he also said skip the thermostat, another warmup device... then complains that his heat risers get plugged! One can cause the other.
They are both finicky solutions, but they are needed to run well, and not just in the cold.
Last edited by KTPhil on Thu Nov 10, 2022 9:29 am; edited 1 time in total |
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matthew henricks
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ibjack
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Location: Imperial Beach CA
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| Posted: Wed Nov 09, 2022 10:08 pm Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle |
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Adriel, might be better to buy new aluminum trim for the windows. They’re hard to polish by hand and even harder to polish on a wheel. Just a thought.
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Adriel Rowley
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Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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| Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2022 6:12 pm Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle |
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Regarding the paint, I private messaged Robert to ask how I should respond and yet to get back a response. All I know is he went to a lot of work to find the correct color. Consider also he has done a plethora of manifold refurbishments and has ratified customers.
I am thrilled this thread has created a discussion and sharing of experiences and information.
I had considered running it blocked, however, I believe it was either Phil and/or Robert that made me aware of it being critical for it to be clear and provide carburetor heat.
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
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Adriel Rowley
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Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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| Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2022 6:38 pm Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle |
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More progress this afternoon, interrupted with a 50 minute Zoom session with the Autism Specialist. I learned her front seat isn't uncomfortable, though could have a little more lumbar support. More interesting is how dead the interior sounds even without carpet or any upholstery, suspect Second Skin Firewall paint.
Donald and I oddly at the exact same time had the idea of packing a box of stuff not needed to go to the storage unit. So, after about two and a half three hours total (subtracting time for the Zoom meeting), I went through all the boxes and surfaces, sans the tool boxes. As I found some things not going in storage, installed them, or in the case of the oil fill cap, installing a new cork gasket (original Volkswagen from Dad's stash).
Replaced wiper blades, they were missing the clip around the blade holder so were very floppy, weird.
I would have liked the blade holders to be the same color, at least the screw slot orientation is the same. I suspect the arms are Brazilian or Mexican as were black, has anyone repainted wiper arms?
Daithi "helping" with bulb installation.
Happen to know if it matters if the bulb is slightly off in orientation? I feel I am over thinking again.
See the Balck retaining ring in the above picture? There is a conical spring that sits in the center. One spring somehow went missing in the move, anyone know of a source to buy a replacement? Wolfsburg West was absolutely stellar and looked and didn't find one.
I have a real head scratcher: there is no headlight relay (the one in the picture is for the starter switch). I spent about 15 minutes tracing wires, even looking in the cabin. What happened? Any tips on wiring one in?
If I had the bread, I would buy a new harness and fix all the hackery. However, that mean when do get the bread for a re-paint, have to remove and replace.
Installing the headlights will be delayed, I forgot when the headlights were stolen in the mid 1990s, the wires were cut and the parking lamps were not repaired. I will run new ground wires and parking lamp wiring to the city bulbs. Probably tie them into the added parking lamps in the turn signals for when find dual filament bases.
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
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Adriel Rowley
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Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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| Posted: Thu Nov 10, 2022 6:42 pm Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle |
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| ibjack wrote: |
| Adriel, might be better to buy new aluminum trim for the windows. They’re hard to polish by hand and even harder to polish on a wheel. Just a thought. |
Jack, the correct trim is not available new.
I have gotten noticeable results, though some pitting still visible, thus why need to be sanded. Sanding also remove the rest of the clear anodizing, thought most had been removed with Dad posting it in the past. I know this will mean continual polishing, however, small price to pay.
This was only to do something fun, probably not come back to it until back on the road.
_________________
Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
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ibjack
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Joined: February 06, 2002
Posts: 2105
Location: Imperial Beach CA
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| Posted: Sat Nov 12, 2022 7:04 pm Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle |
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| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
| ibjack wrote: |
| Adriel, might be better to buy new aluminum trim for the windows. They’re hard to polish by hand and even harder to polish on a wheel. Just a thought. |
Jack, the correct trim is not available new.
I have gotten noticeable results, though some pitting still visible, thus why need to be sanded. Sanding also remove the rest of the clear anodizing, thought most had been removed with Dad posting it in the past. I know this will mean continual polishing, however, small price to pay.
This was only to do something fun, probably not come back to it until back on the road. |
do the reproduction pieces not fit and thats why there not correct? Once you remove the anodizing, you are in for the need to have them polished often. I learned this with my 64 t34.
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'68 Lotus White T34 automatic sunroof
'64 Manila Yellow T34
'65 Sea Blue Square Panel
the1500club.com
Shop Lacky at the T3/34 Factory, https://www.facebook.com/profile.php?id=100094313902074 |
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Adriel Rowley
Samba Member
Joined: October 12, 2006
Posts: 4748
Location: Mesa, Arizona
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| Posted: Sat Nov 19, 2022 6:28 pm Post subject: Re: Dad's 1964 Ruby Red Beetle |
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| ibjack wrote: |
| Adriel Rowley wrote: |
| ibjack wrote: |
| Adriel, might be better to buy new aluminum trim for the windows. They’re hard to polish by hand and even harder to polish on a wheel. Just a thought. |
Jack, the correct trim is not available new.
I have gotten noticeable results, though some pitting still visible, thus why need to be sanded. Sanding also remove the rest of the clear anodizing, thought most had been removed with Dad posting it in the past. I know this will mean continual polishing, however, small price to pay.
This was only to do something fun, probably not come back to it until back on the road. |
do the reproduction pieces not fit and thats why there not correct? Once you remove the anodizing, you are in for the need to have them polished often. I learned this with my 64 t34. |
An okay fit for aftermarket, however, way too thick and wide. If want more, I posted earlier explaining.
I know will have to keep polishing, said that at least once before, though less than you in the corrosive environment. Small price to pay for better trim.
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Please consider I am Autistic, so I process information differently and still working on social skills. Thanks.
Dad's 1964 Beetle purchased September 1968.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9252810#9252810
1971 Sunroof Squareback with Fuel Injection
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=219811&highlight=squareback+rejuvenation |
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