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sb001
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 10406
Location: NW Arkansas
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 Posted: Thu Aug 29, 2019 5:20 pm Post subject: Re: My 69 refresh thread. |
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| Q-Dog wrote: |
| The powdercoat process involves baking in an oven. There is no way the natural fiber in the air cleaner can survive that. |
Yeah that's what I figured happened. It looks so good though I might just run it without. 
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I'm the humblest guy on this board.
1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor |
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Tom K.
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Joined: March 10, 2005
Posts: 1605
Location: Central Pennsylvania
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sb001
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 10406
Location: NW Arkansas
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| Posted: Fri Aug 30, 2019 6:32 pm Post subject: Re: My 69 refresh thread. |
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Tom, I'll definitely post here how the wire harness turns out- that is, if I actually get it. Even with missing two months mortgage payments and getting cash back it's a still a budget balancing act since the powdercoating alone is costing $600, the wire harness would be another $250-$300, and I still need to order new engine firewall insulation tarboard (again no autostick style tarboard available- gotta cut those holes out yourself), new dash pad, new door cards, a Frost Fighter kit for the new clear glass rear window I'll be installing, and pay someone to a) install the headliner for me since it's a PITA, and b) weld new sheet metal tabs for the side engine bay insulation. I already ordered new oatmeal carpet to the tune of $150, but TMI has to make those from scratch now, most vendors do not carry them anymore.
Re the dash pad: I went back and forth trying to decide whether to leave the dash bare metal and order the shorter European dash switches/ knobs, vents, etc...www.vwheritage.com has all that plus the better (IMO) retractable seat belts that mount up against the B pillar instead of at a right angle. Unfortunately I have to make some sacrifices money-wise, and it will be easier on my budget to just order a replacement dash pad and keep the original static 3 point belts that came with the car for the time being. Down the line a ways when I have a bit more spending cash I'll look into ordering all that stuff.
_________________
I'm the humblest guy on this board.
1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor |
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sb001
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 10406
Location: NW Arkansas
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| Posted: Thu Sep 12, 2019 6:32 am Post subject: Re: My 69 refresh thread. |
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OK so....
I have the top end back together after cleaning up the case studs and reinstalling them using Permatex thread sealant.
As mentioned in my other thread one of my case savers threaded a hair further into the case when I was tightening the stud- will this cause any issues?
Also have a question about the oil cooler install- apparently when I last installed the oil cooler (with the wrong straight 10mm seals), the spacers that are supposed to go on top of the case (between the cooler and the case to prevent the seals from the getting crushed) I had actually put them on the oil cooler mounting studs on the UNDERSIDE of the case, between the mounting nuts and the case (in other words acting as washers instead of spacers.) I now have them correctly positioned on top of the case, but does this mean the oil cooler stud nuts just tighten right up against the case? Or are there supposed to be additional washers there?
_________________
I'm the humblest guy on this board.
1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor |
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Tom K.
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Joined: March 10, 2005
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sb001
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 10406
Location: NW Arkansas
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| Posted: Thu Sep 12, 2019 12:41 pm Post subject: Re: My 69 refresh thread. |
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| Tom K. wrote: |
Mine had washers. Little spring washers if I remember correctly.
The head studs just screw in by hand. The proper torque comes when applying the head bolts. |
When I screwed them in by hand they were very uneven. Some would go in to where the stud threads disappeared, others would tighten down but there was a pretty good area of thread left exposed. In my other thread it was suggested that getting the stud threads inserted all the way into the case will produce the best overall strength as the entire section of threads is engaged with the threads in the case (or case savers here) so that's what I did- you may be correct that it would have happened anyway when torquing the head nuts down but I think they still would have been relatively uneven.
Anyway I don't mind having to have used a ratchet to get some of them in that far, my only concern is the one case saver that threaded a bit further in when I torqued it:
All my cylinder head nuts torqued down just fine.
Regarding the oil cooler washers- I know the oil cooler did not have any spring loaded washers on it before, but I bet I have some in my stash that would work if you are sure they need to be on there.
Thanks
_________________
I'm the humblest guy on this board.
1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor |
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sb001
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Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 10406
Location: NW Arkansas
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| Posted: Sat Sep 14, 2019 10:23 am Post subject: Re: My 69 refresh thread. |
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Aaargh- forgot to install the cylinder head deflector tin before torquing the heads down.    
The small deflector tin is no problem to install after the pushrod tubes are on, I don't suppose there's any trick to installing the larger deflector plates without having to remove the heads again...?
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I'm the humblest guy on this board.
1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor |
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Tom K.
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Joined: March 10, 2005
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Location: Central Pennsylvania
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sb001
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 10406
Location: NW Arkansas
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| Posted: Sun Sep 15, 2019 12:16 pm Post subject: Re: My 69 refresh thread. |
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The larger deflector plates are part of the stash currently at the powdercoaters so I'll have to wait until they are done. No big deal as I am currently waiting for my new engine bay tarboard insulation to arrive from WCM and will have to install that first before the engine is ready to go back in.
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I'm the humblest guy on this board.
1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor |
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sb001
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 10406
Location: NW Arkansas
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| Posted: Wed Sep 18, 2019 7:04 am Post subject: Re: My 69 refresh thread. |
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Got my new dash pad and engine bay tarboard in from WCM today. Some comments:
Dash pad: While i really like the look of the dash pad, it's a cheap rubbery feeling foam-rubber dash that I guess I was expecting more from. This was a blemish stock I got for $99, their regular $260 dash pad says it is metal reinforced and since the blemish item is the same exact part number just with "BLEM" added to it I was expecting the same quality dash pad just with a slight blemish or two, but this is CLEARLY not metal reinforced as the pictures show-- I can squeeze it with my hand. Pretty disappointed in that regard but I'll still try to install it and see how it looks.
Tarboard: Very pleased with these- I love the crosshatch pattern look.
These appear to be very similar to the waffle style tarboard that ClassicVWBugs sells for $80 only these were only $30. They are flimsy as I expected but I plan on gluing my old original tarboard on as backing for these to give extra added strength.
_________________
I'm the humblest guy on this board.
1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor
Last edited by sb001 on Wed Sep 18, 2019 4:25 pm; edited 2 times in total |
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Xevin 
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Joined: January 08, 2014
Posts: 7628
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| Posted: Wed Sep 18, 2019 8:27 am Post subject: Re: My 69 refresh thread. |
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Just brainstorming on the tarboard. After you glue WW tarboard to original tarboard, would it make sense to fasten a shallow bolt,washer, nut combination around the fan area (hidden by shroud) to prevent the chance of delimitation over time? The spikes will probably be just fine. Maybe I’m over thinking it. Good luck.
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| 67rustavenger wrote: |
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!  |
| Clatter wrote: |
| Damn that Xevin... |
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I respect Xevin and he's a turd  |
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My God! Xevin and I 100% agree  |
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sb001
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 10406
Location: NW Arkansas
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| Posted: Wed Sep 18, 2019 9:08 am Post subject: Re: My 69 refresh thread. |
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| Xevin wrote: |
| Just brainstorming on the tarboard. After you glue WW tarboard to original tarboard, would it make sense to fasten a shallow bolt,washer, nut combination around the fan area (hidden by shroud) to prevent the chance of delimitation over time? The spikes will probably be just fine. Maybe I’m over thinking it. Good luck. |
No you're right, at the very least I'm planning on using some carpet nails or something as added reinforcement to hold them together. I would probably not even try to install these without some sort of backing- they are not rigid at all and actually came rolled up in the box. Another reason I'm doing it is to know exactly where to cut out the additional holes I need for my autostick stuff.
_________________
I'm the humblest guy on this board.
1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor |
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sb001
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 10406
Location: NW Arkansas
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| Posted: Mon Nov 04, 2019 10:06 pm Post subject: Re: My 69 refresh thread. |
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So after a couple of months I finally got a chance to work on the car a little more this weekend, I refilled the gearbox with GL-4 gear oil, got the new engine bay tarboard installed, put most of the engine back together and got it reinstalled (just a few odds and ends to finish up.) However I forgot to refill the TC with ATF fluid before reinstalling (I turned the TC upside down when I pulled it and drained some of the ATF fluid out-- there's of course still some in there as it's pretty much impossible to drain it completely without a siphon, but the level is definitely lower than it's supposed to be.)
So my question is, is it safe enough to just refill the tank with ATF while running the engine until enough of the new fluid has been pumped into and through the TC? Or will not having refilled it outside the car cause damage if I try to do this?
Thanks
_________________
I'm the humblest guy on this board.
1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor |
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sb001
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 10406
Location: NW Arkansas
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| Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 7:22 am Post subject: Re: My 69 refresh thread. |
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Someone please give me an answer asap to my post above as I don't want to go any further if I have to remove the engine and pull the TC back out-thanks!!
_________________
I'm the humblest guy on this board.
1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor |
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Tom K.
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Joined: March 10, 2005
Posts: 1605
Location: Central Pennsylvania
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sb001
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 10406
Location: NW Arkansas
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| Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 10:38 am Post subject: Re: My 69 refresh thread. |
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| Tom K. wrote: |
I wish I knew the answer. You might ask a local mechanic. All torque convertors are more or less the same, right?
Nice to get an update from you. |
Thx-
If I have to remove the TC this would be the 3rd time having to pull the engine back out after having it installed-- can you believe I got it installed and then realized I hadn't even installed the TC the first time??
I've looked up some other info on this and the consensus seems to be it's OK to run it and fill with ATF as long as you don't engage the gears, will take a long time though for it to fill back up to proper level that way and I suppose there's some level of risk of the TC burning up. The other thing that concerns me is that after installing it I spun it around on the one-way clutch support to make sure it was fully seated, and it was but it "grumbled" significantly as I spun it. I don't know if this is low-ATF related or not. I'm wondering if I could help it by dumping some ATF straight down the inlet hose that leads into the bell housing before reconnecting that hose to the metal ATF pump pipe...
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I'm the humblest guy on this board.
1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor |
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Tom K.
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Location: Central Pennsylvania
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djkeev
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sb001
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 10406
Location: NW Arkansas
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| Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 7:35 pm Post subject: Re: My 69 refresh thread. |
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| djkeev wrote: |
Just a word of advice, lose the concrete blocks.
They are known to crumble without warning dropping the car down on you.
Get some wood instead.
Dave |
Thanks- I actually have the car up on jack stands, the concrete blocks were just a backup in case the stands failed for any reason.
_________________
I'm the humblest guy on this board.
1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor |
|
| Back to top |
|
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sb001
Samba Member
Joined: May 19, 2011
Posts: 10406
Location: NW Arkansas
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| Posted: Tue Nov 05, 2019 7:41 pm Post subject: Re: My 69 refresh thread. |
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| Tom K. wrote: |
| Yes. Let gravity fill it with ATF added to the hose at the top of the tank. Stick a tube in there somehow to direct the ATF into the hose and not the tank. |
I was actually thinking the other hose since it's the inlet hose coming off the pump. Would (hopefully) fill the torque converter faster when I start the engine.
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I'm the humblest guy on this board.
1969 autostick sedan, family owned since new
1600 SP engine
Solex 30 PICT 3 carburetor
Bosch 113905205AE autostick distributor |
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