1976 Beetle FI STD - 1st of many questions

[MrCleanHead]

Very nice! I wish my paint looked as good as yours. My two tone gold just dont cut it for me. But it has grown on me.

[MrCleanHead]

OK, so I have my car up on the lift for the last week or so and finally can get back to working on it. So Since I have acsess to the valves I figure I would adjust them. I found TDC since my pully has the dimple on the outside and a notch to the left on the inside (5ATDC). Double checked that this was correct and double checked again and only had adjust a couple .001 or so (they were at .007).

So that went well but when I removed the cap on the distributor to verify I was pointing at number one the whole distributor moved (turned).

I dont remember how much or what direction but it did move, just not much. I read the 100 pages or so on how to time the car but Im more confused than before , but a little smarter though.

This is the distrubutor I have:

Beetle 1975-1979 * 1600 FI Manual Trans
Distributor: VW 043-905-205H, Bosch 0231 176 044
Can Use:
Points: 01 011
Condensor: 02 074
Rotor: 04 033
Dust Cover: 039-905-241, Bosch 1230 500 139 > 1230 500 147
Cap: 03 010
Distributor Cap Clip: 034-905-265, Bosch 1231 251 033
Parts Kit (Shims, Washers & Hardware): 059-998-211, Bosch 1237 010 007
Coil: 00 012
Vacuum Can: 07 114
Ignition Wires: 09 001
Spark Plug: W8AC
Timing Set At:: 5deg ATDC @ 800-950rpm w/strobe, vacuum hose(s) connected.
Advance/Retard Range: Vacuum: 5-8deg Adv, 11-13deg Ret; Centrifugal: 6-12deg @ 1500rpm, 20-23deg @ 3500rpm

Here is where I get lost. I dont have a timing light but Im sure I can find one from a friend. But still dont know how to use it. I watched lots of youtube videos and have an idea. I do have a regular prob light.
Do I need to set the static (idle) first? at 5ATDC? How do I do that?
Also I can only turn the distributor so far and then it hits the EGR Tube. It real close to it now, maybe .020 away.

Since it didnt move much I did start it and it seems fine, but I would like it to be right.

Again, thanks for the help.

[busdaddy]

[ashman40]

If you can start the engine, don't worry about static timing. Static timing is only used to get the engine running. Once running you NEED to set timing using a strobe timing light.

Start the engine and get it warmed up so it can idle in the normal range (800-950rpm for manual trans).
With both hoses connected to your DVDA distributor set timing at idle rpm to 5ATDC (the notch CCW from TDC) using a strobe timing light. Rotate the distributor body until the 5ATDC notch lines up with the case split.

IMPORTANT CHECK = While you have the timing light connected and can see the 5ATDC mark lined up with the case split, disconnect the vacuum retard hose (connected to the nipple closest to the distributor cap) at the distributor end and plug the open end of the hose with your finger to prevent a vacuum leak. You should see the timing mark jump so the case split is now on the other side of TDC (somewhere around 3-7BTDC). This confirms the vacuum retard system is working as designed.
If this does not result in the timing mark moving... it means your vacuum retard is broken! If the vacuum retard is broke then 5ATDC is the WRONG timing for your engine. The 5ATDC timing at idle is based on the vacuum retard removing 8-12deg of timing advance while at idle. Without the vacuum retard connected the idle timing would be somewhere in the 3-7BTDC range. This problem is not that unusual since these distributors are well over 40yrs old.
Until you can source a new distributor, set your idle timing to 7BTDC with both hoses disconnected and plugged.

TEST YOUR VACUUM ADVANCE = connect a hose between the vacuum advance port on the distributor and the vacuum retard port on the carb (this port has strong vacuum at idle). This should cause your timing to jump 8-12deg. This shows that your vacuum advance is working. Reconnect the vacuum advance hose to the left side of the carb.

_________________
AshMan40
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'67 Beetle #1 {project car that never made it to the road }
'75 Beetle 1200LS (RHD Japan model) {junked due to frame rot}
'67 Beetle #2 {2019 project car - Wish me luck!}

[MrCleanHead]

[Gr0unded]

[MrCleanHead]

Yep, its spring time. The car has been running good. I take it out to do shorts runs anytime I get a chance. Its amazing that the attention it gets. Everyone stops to talk about it.

[PuddleRainbow]

Nice Car! I have a "Topaz" '76 as well.

Did you time out to 20 deg (noted above) or 28 deg (like normal SVDA) at 3500 RPM?



Thanks

Jeff

[61 BUS]

Nice car. My first new car was a '76 Topaz Metallic beetle. I've owned a total of three 76's with my current one being the metallic green version. It's presently carbureted but I have two complete sets of fuel injection parts that I intend to use to return the car to F.I. when I get the time. Keep yours fuel injected.
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61 Bus, 71 Bus, 76 Beetle, 2013 Fiat 500 Abarth, 47 Plymouth Business Coupe, 58 BMW Isetta 300

[MrCleanHead]

[quote="PuddleRainbow"]Nice Car! I have a "Topaz" '76 as well.

Did you time out to 20 deg (noted above) or 28 deg (like normal SVDA) at 3500 RPM?


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To be honest I dont remember, but I just followed the manual and the car was running great.

I have been driving it every chance I get until my 80 year old father backed into it and crushed the rear end. Im still sick over it.

Its repairable but I will need some parts, I think like the rear deck lid needs to be replaced. I dont think I can pound it out straight enough.

So if anyone in and or around Ohio has a replacement deck lid, rear apron or just a solid parts car that will work, hit me up. I really miss driving this car.

[PuddleRainbow]

Thanks and bummer. I bet a good shop could beat the fenders, lid, and apron back into shape.

If you do end up getting a deck lid and doing it yourself, I repainted my lid, fenders and top with rattle can L99D from PaintScratch https://www.paintscratch.com/cgi-bin/select-color.cgi and it looks good.

Someone with more skill and patience would make it look like new. Only tip is to keep a rag in off had to wipe the can nozzle every other pass or so as the lip will collect drips.

Also, I compressed one of the bumper mounts and was able to stretch it back out. If mounts not other wise damage, you may be able to re use them.

Jeff

[busdaddy]

Oh damn, that sucks, looks like Dad is getting some payback for all the grief you caused him as a teenager.

That looks very repairable, the right body man could fix that without any new parts. Did anything get damaged on the engine?
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[MrCleanHead]

It still runs and I dont think anything happened to the engine. But I only drove it back into the shop and haven't touched it since. Out of sight out of mind, right....The apron is against the muffler when there was about a 1-2" space there. Im affraid since I had rot where the bumper was mounted that I will have a hard time pounding anything back because there is no metal there, basically no structure.

PS: I was a good kid and never got in trouble with my parents....or should I say I never got caught

[Gr0unded]