"Lazy" Brake Light Switch? Real Time Help?

[Vanagon Nut]

Hi folks.

I did a quick search by title but.....

Can a "lazy" or "marginal" brake light switch make it so the driver has to push the pedal harder than normal to light up the brake lights?

My brake lights work but I have to push the pedal "hard" to get them to light up. i.e. the brakes engage before lights come on.

With a volt meter connected to each switch:

one meter shows the switch closest to booster closing first. Both close.

Is that because that switch gets hydraulic pressure first? Or.....

Do I have a "lazy" switch? i.e. if I replace the switch further from booster will this help my brake lights come on "sooner"? (less pedal pressure)

Some time ago, I had the same "issue" on my '81. One switch had failed. Replacing it helped the brake lights come on "sooner".


Thanks

Neil.
_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[Ahwahnee]

Often as the switches are failing they require more and more pressure to function. Might be time to replace both.

On another car with a similar switch I added a mechanical switch, this one:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000E5DILY?psc=1...PDKIKX0DER

Just a simple bracket that allows the switch to be pressed when the pedal is at rest does the job.

[Franklinstower]

Yes.
Recently while driving, i was told my brake lights aren't coming on. I checked this at a stop with my wife and it took her immense foot pressure to get the light to come on.
Went to flaps, grabbed a new switch, light now comes on as it should. $10 bucks and 20 minutes.
_________________
'89 Westy - EJ25/22 Frank 4.44 5mt
'75 Miami Blue Sunroof FI Standard Bug

[Vanagon Nut]

Thanks much people.

Ok. I'll likely replace both switches. I can get my hands on some good quality new ones. (made in Spain IIRC)

At first I thought I was seeing differences in resistance between the two switches but then I swapped the meters and for some reason, they now show very similar resistances. Not that that really matters per se.

Neil.
_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[danfromsyr]

this problem happens when the internal contacts get pushed further IN and then require more pedal pressure to make the contacts.
the 'cheap' replacements will do this after a hard/panic stop..

I've added a mechanical switch as well into the circuit.

[vanis13]

[IdahoDoug]

A $4 upgrade at most U-pull junkyards will get you the roof top mounted high mount LED stop lamp unit. Two phillips screws and its yours. Fits perfectly on Vanagon's rear roof edge with 3M double stick tape or screw it down. Worthy so you have that in case tail lamp wiring fails, or with a distracted driver behind you.

EDIT: Wups, would have been very helpful if I'd mentioned which car. So, all Suburbans, Yukons, and full size GMC/Chevy SUVs with the body of the 93 model year have a bolt on LED third brake light that's cake to grab. Pull some wire up out of the roof so you can easily splice it into your tail light wiring. Looks factory on my Vanagon.
_________________
1987 2WD Wolfsburg Vanagon Weekender "Mango", two fully locked 80 Series LandCruisers. 2017 Subaru Outback boxer. 1990 Audi 90 Quattro 20V with rear locking differential, 1990 burgundy parts Vanagon. 1984 Porsche 944, 1988 Toyota Supra 5 speed targa, 2002 BMW 325iX, 1982 Toyota Sunrader

[Vanagon Nut]

[Vanagon Nut]