Dash Light Bulb Holder: not polyethylene or polypropylene?

[Vanagon Nut]

To confirm, this white plastic piece is not polyethylene or polypropylene plastic?

Thanks

Neil.

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1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[allenw]

Poly E or poly Prop is very flexible and pliable material, I would say that is a very rigid material so maybe ABS or a nylon product.

[Vanagon Nut]

[82westyrabbit]

Are those solid aviation rivets you are using? Good work. John

[Vanagon Nut]

[82westyrabbit]

Yes I see that on closer inspection. Good work anyways. John

[Vanagon Nut]

Thanks John.

The Permatex Cold Weld held the contacts on but with medium effort, I could pull off a contact piece. A push on retaining clip at each post might hold each contact piece in place if the epoxy bond fails due to vibration and sunlight heat.

The HVAC sheet metal was just thick enough to make the light work but gently pushing the bulb base sideways would break contact. I think the HVAC steel was 26 gauge, not sure.

Neil.
_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[Vanagon Nut]

Goal: use easily obtainable material, basic hand tools, to show it can be done by the average DIY or shade tree type. It's fussy work that "pays" poorly so I'd guess that most people would likely just buy an aftermarket solution for the entire cluster.

I haven't checked bulb fit yet or tested but it should work. A slightly thicker metal might be better; I found that with one contact doubled up in thickness, moving the bulb would not cause it go to out. I didn't do this on these parts; I don't think road vibration will cause the light to flicker on/off. I saw slight differences in bulbs I had on hand so used what looked like the most recent (newest) type.

Used Permatex 5 Minute "general" epoxy.

https://www.permatex.com/products/adhesives-sealants/epoxies/permatex-5-minute-gap-filling-epoxy/

I may cover some of the exposed metal with epoxy. Maybe. These will connect via wires with push on connectors at each end, to the 58b circuit. To enable cluster removal, they will disconnect at end of wire to circuit, not at bulb holder.

My dash light dimmer is non op. I'll measure "full" brightness of a rheostat in known good switch against resistance of using a direct connection to 58b. My thinking: if resistance of "full on" at rheostat is significantly more than direct wiring, (bypass rheostat) I'd install a switch to bypass the rheostat for day light driving purposes, should I ever bother to replace the light switch. That said, I'd wonder if full voltage would cause the bulb to wear out sooner.

Making the parts took some time but once a template was made, it took less time. Regardless, I had to trim each piece and the pieces are obviously slightly different. Using aviation snips was not ideal. I'm sure there's a better tool.

Drilling the hole first then using this type of jig was helpful. Work is supported with 2x4 in my bench vise.

Hole in part is slightly smaller than post. Using a small socket to push part in place helped.

I found push on clips locally that pretty much fit (allow for bulb to turn during install) but I don't think they're really needed. This still shows too much epoxy; any blobs of epoxy can get in the way of installing the bulb. (twisting it in place). Looking at that part again, I think more metal could be removed at areas near post where bulb passes when twisted in place. And, I'd bevel the edges at metal where bulb contacts pass when bulb is twisted in place.

_________________
1981 Westy DIY 15º ABA

1988 West DIY 50º ABA

VE7TBN

[Vanagon Nut]