Fixing Sagging Doors

[rstrobel]

Hello All,

I recently took the body off of the pan on my '67 Beetle and noticed that the doors are sagging quite a bit. (When I open them the drop about half an inch) The problem wasn't as bad where the body was still on the car, but it was still pretty noticeable. However, I want to fix this issue once and for all. I was wondering what the best way to fix this issue is. I was thinking that I'll weld the heater channels in while the doors are shut. This way my "A" and "B" pillars should have the correct dimensions from each other in order for the doors to close correctly. The reason why I was thinking that this could fix the issue is because I noticed that my "A" pillar moves, along with the front inner wheel well area when I lift up on the door.

Also, another issue is that my door gap is about 36.25," and it should be 36". In order to fix this issue, will I have to remove my braces, fix the door gap, and then weld my braces in again? The brace goes from the rear wheel well area to the front "A" pillar on both sides.

With Thanks,
Roman
_________________
1967 VW Beetle
1993 VW Cabriolet
My 67 build thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=716767
•(__)•
(O\!/O) <--- supposed to look like a beetle

[rstrobel]

I will attach pictures later when I get home
_________________
1967 VW Beetle
1993 VW Cabriolet
My 67 build thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=716767
•(__)•
(O\!/O) <--- supposed to look like a beetle

[bomberbob]

There are several things that affect the fit of the doors on these cars. I just welded in new a pillars, new firewall, heater channels, and the entire front wheel well piece on the drivers side. Tell us what pieces you are replacing/repairing.
I watched the bug me videos which were a good start, but its not everything you need to know. There are rubber blocks (shims?) that go under the mounting bolts at the front and rear of the car. There are varying thicknesses, the thickness of these blocks will affect your door gap. How well you tuck your heater channels up into their place will also affect it. I did the best I could on everything and still had a lousy door gap. Somebody on this forum said you have to loosen the mounting bolts all round, put a jack under a specific spot on the car, and jack it up to get your doors aligned. Then tighten the bolts.

door gap went from this

to this

Tell us where you are in the process.
_________________
1968 Beetle (storage)
1990 Jetta GLI megasquirted, burning E85 (currently in heavy maintenance)
2004 Jetta turbo GLI
Marion, Iowa

[rstrobel]

This picture shows where my body braces are on the passenger side of the car. I installed a few more, but this is the main brace.

Wow! The before and after on the door gap is a big difference. Currently, I have removed the passenger side heater channel and prepped it for the new heater channel. The KlassicFab heater channels should be here on Tuesday, so I'll install them over winter break. My "A" and "B" pillars are still in good shape. However, I also need to replace the wheel well, rear quarter panel, and heater channel end cap area.
_________________
1967 VW Beetle
1993 VW Cabriolet
My 67 build thread: https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=716767
•(__)•
(O\!/O) <--- supposed to look like a beetle

[fabricator john]

Joined: October 09, 2009
Posts: 462
Location: manassas va. now Venice Fl.
fabricator john is online now
PostPosted: Sat Feb 05, 2011 3:06 pm Post subject: Reply with quote Edit/Delete this post Report this post to Moderator/Admin.
this is a easy fix..first wd or penetrating lube your hinges (swing it back n forth till your arms are tired and winging freely).TO ADJUST THE DOOR DROP>>.take out your door striker (in the jamb) take the pan bolts loose down that side of the car,,,place a jack under the front post and jack the car up till the door shuts nice ( without the striker) look at the bodyline you now want the door about a 1/4" high (according to the bodyline)(to preload) now tighten the pan bolts with the car jacked up in position....let the car down and check your gap.... if satisified ,,,re install the striker and adjust for a perfect "CLICK"..........done it alot its easy ,nobody ever remembers this old trick was taught to me 20yrs ago when i was bangin tin at a big vw shop.....fabricator john
repost pm for questions easy peasy

[rstrobel]

[CiderGuy]

A sagging door problem could also be broken lower door hinge. Look there first.
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Cars Currently Owned:

1970 Karmann Ghia Coupe
1973 Karmann Ghia Coupe - Project car for sale
1970 Karmann Ghia Convertible (Body off restoration)

Timing is everything

[rstrobel]