Seat Cover Replacement

[Split 66']

As ugly as it is, I couldn't stop digging now:

I've seen better rats nests:

Wait... that's not so bad:

And that's not so good, need to weld:

Wire wheel:

Stock coconut pad(?) from the seat bottom:

What kind of welder would be best, in order to fix the following problems?

Frame cross-bar cracked weld:

This is the upper left side of the backrest, the spring that keeps the backrest floating, and touches the frame, snapped off:

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"OG = Original German" -- TheSamba.com dictionary

[Split 66']

After some reading, it seems that welding the seat springs makes them brittle, or soft, and is not worth doing because they will sag, or snap.

I'm looking at ordering a new zig-zag spring and bending it to match the stock one:
https://www.amazon.com/Wholesale-Upholstery-Supply-Furniture015-Replacement/dp/B07HFHR2FB

Are there any problems with my plan, that you can guys see?
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[Split 66']

Since my last post, I've been trying to get a new top spring for the driver's backrest, I can't leave that spring broken, or rig it.

I ordered a few different zig-zag springs, trying to get the right size and gauge. I have found that either 9, or 10 gauge is the closest you can get to the stock springs. Bending the springs to the correct shape without heating them, or annealing them again, wasn't going to work for me.

I'm in the process of purchasing another backrest, just for the top spring, this is the replacement coming from a user here:

Also, the passenger seat that I had thought was completed, didn't look good to me - based on the shape of the coconut pad under the seat cover. The corners and the edge looked terrible, so I took it all apart again, and shaped the coconut pad with an angle grinder and 120 grit flap disc.

I've ordered a cheap flux welder to repair the cross bar on the driver's seat, and to add a frame barb for the cover. Only one broken barb so far.

I'm hoping to be able to get the 2/3rd and rear seat frames cleaned and painted this week, covering those should go a lot faster, without the frame problems and coconut pads.
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[Split 66']

Back to it! Took about 6 months off.

Since my last post I repaired the driver backrest and seat portion, I welded the seat frame back together, and welded on a new cover barb that was missing.

I'm now to the part where the backrest is going together, and I'm wondering about the metal round bar that goes in the hem:

I only have one of those OG rods left, the one shown above - and the backrest takes two of them. Apparently the short middle seat will also need two of those rods as well. The OG rod is 1 1/2 ft long.

My questions is: is this 1/8 round bar the same as what I already have, and need? 1018 Carbon Steel Round Rod, Unpolished (Mill) Finish, Cold Finished Temper, ASTM A108, 0.125" Diameter, 36" Length
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H9OX6Q

Thanks
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[EverettB]

I'm not sure if that matches but if you have one rod, go to your local Ace Hardware, they have a rack of metal rods that will match it.

I did this for some headliner bows (they might be the same?) and they matched
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[Busted-bolt]

Yesterday I was out in the grove and seen a naked rear seat in an old bug 61-64ish .I think those zig zags look just like the ones you are trying to repair.If any body in the know if those would work, maybe using old ones from an old bug rear seat could be a solution.
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[Split 66']

Thanks for the replies. I measured the existing one I have, and it measures out at 2.8mm, or 0.110", and it's 18" long.

I went ahead and bought (3) of the 0.125" x 36" rods, so I can make 6 of them.

The difference between the OG at 0.110"/ 2.8mm, and the new one at 0.125" / 3.18mm, might be small enough to get away with fitting in the hem. I can't find anything closer in my searches.
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[flemcadiddlehopper]

[Split 66']

The 1/8" round bar works well, it's slightly bigger but it shouldn't be a problem:

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000H9OX6Q
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[Split 66']

Bought this short middle seat frame in '96, it was a bare metal frame, so I never saw how the covering was attached.

Having some problems getting the short middle-seat backrest frame covered:

There are no frame barbs for the backrest cover to hold it on.

I had then thought the flaps that come through the back side had a hem that requires the rods to make it work, like the front seats:

But there is no provision in the hem for the rod. Does anyone know how this is supposed to go back together? I do not have the fiber board that held the ashtray, the ashtray won't be re-installed.

Do I put both flaps in the slot, and that's all that's supposed to hold them?
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[EverettB]

Yes, both go into the slot but there should be a plastic or cardboard strip in the edge of the cover to insert into the slot

This thread has some photos and explanation of an issue with another cover:
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=708694
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[flemcadiddlehopper]

You should also put some solid type back in the back of the backrest too. Even though you're not installing the ash tray. Just think of some kids sitting in the very back seat with their feet against the back of the middle seat.
I put 1/4" MDF with a layer of moving blanket felt in the back of my middle seat.

Gordo.
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[55bundt]

I had a hell of a time fitting my middle seat back.
The cardboard that was sewn on was only 1/4in not
wide enough to fit into the slot....from the looks of that
cover you will have the same problem

[Split 66']

Thanks for the excellent suggestions guys!

These covers were made by Matt Miller, I know I keep saying that, but it really is the mark of quality - enough on that - he did sew the flaps that catch the lip of the seat frame in to the covers:

So clean I didn't even notice them there, they're the same color - not as obvious as the white plastic ones - like the pictures in the link EvB posted, thanks for that! That was how I was able to finally figure this all out.

I probably should put a backing board in as FCH recommended, 1/4" sounds good - I may put the ash tray back in at that point too. Have the 2/3 short handle for the top, need to figure that all out too.

Thanks again all, I'll get back to it when the parts arrive.

Also: Still having trouble with welding the driver-side backrest frame-barbs from WW, those things are flimsy, and I have a hard time getting cheap flux welder setup to penetrate the frame without blowing through the pot-metal WW barbs. New.
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[j.pickens]

Those barbs can be fabricated from thicker steel easily. Aircraft snips to cut the acute angle and you're good to go.
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[Split 66']

That's exactly what I'll do, use the WW ones for a template, and cut them out of better steel. Thanks, JP!
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[bobrk]

[Split 66']

In this video they demonstrate using the sheet metal screws to secure the cover to the bucket seat frame, where a barb or two is missing.


Link

I don't think Matt Miller meant for anyone to screw the entire cover on there, just where the barbs are missing.

I am so close to doing that for the driver back rest. I swore I would not use those screws, because to me it looks half-assed and I'll just know it's there, won't even have to see it.

I've successfully welded the WW tabs to my short middle seat, but the driver back rest is different. I need to get thicker steel, and use the WW tab as a template. Or use the screw in that one place.

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[bobrk]

Thanks for your response! I may have to go and find someone to weld those barbs on, I guess. There are none on my bottom frame and about three on the back frame. I guess I was thinking that hooking them over the edges of the screws might work but it seems like the barbs do a lot structurally for holding on the cover. Sigh.
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[BulliBill]