new bus engine inspection

[nate9871]

Hi all,

Sorry for the long post.

Just bought a bus and going through the engine compartment. I'm having issues with exhaust fumes in the interior when heater is on. It's my understanding the engine tins/seals need to be in good shape and air tight.


My rear tin: whats the deal here? Is this normal? I wonder if I have a beetle tin?

My fresh air/heater pipes are squished (by about 1/2) by the exhaust pipe. Wont it just burn up? Is this aftermarket crap exhaust I need to replace? What do you recommend and do I need clamps on air hose?

other random holes I plugged with duct-tape. Better fix?

I'm thinking I just need to drop the engine and clean everything up. My main concerns are reliability and not asphyxiating from carbon monoxide. Heater boxes look OK but I'm sure the exhaust gaskets could use attention.


This is my first VW so if anything stands out let me know. Other photos

Ya'll have been amazing so far, thanks so much for any comments. I really appreciate it.

NG

[RWK]

The tilt issue may be due to front trans mount bad, the fresh air tubes don't ever fit well with headers, some better then others, stock exhaust is best for heat, hose goes to what is called a clam shell part which is the transition piece between tube and heater box, if you can get a header that is made for use with a heater box you get better air flow by not going thru clam, I've always had headers and good heat, you will just go thru tubes and have to always mess with the connection. Other large hole in tin is for pre heat for air cleaner,cut some can bottoms out and sandwich together with screw and silicone if you dont use the pre heat tube/air cleaner and tin
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73 Type 181
63 Type 113
63 Type 261- 428 071
62 Type 241-378 025 178 530

[RWK]

Carbon monoxide may indicate a bad heater box or exhaust leaks, not generally due to tin fit and seals.
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73 Type 181
63 Type 113
63 Type 261- 428 071
62 Type 241-378 025 178 530

[Lind]

Like many engines, there is a whole bunch of incorrect/missing stuff there. one thing that I would address immediately are the positive cable going through the big hole in the firewall without any grommet. This will eventually wear through the insulation, and turn your cable into a random welder throwing sparks around your engine compartment before it melts the cable and/or burns your bus to the ground.

A stock muffler works easier than a header. That air cleaner is just wrong. Missing tin pieces need to be sourced and installed. Etc.

Duct tape belongs right next to WD40, in the trash. Use foil sparingly tape if needed.
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[62DoKaGuy]

Building on Lind’s recommendations, you can use metal plugs in those unused tin holes and forget the tape...you could even paint the plugs black to match and blend in. This is an example: https://www.webstaurantstore.com/metro-9997c-super...gIXOvD_BwE

Make sure to bend tabs back for better securement. Or buy new tin.
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,,Wenige Menschen denken, und doch wollen alle entscheiden.'' -der Alte Fritz

[hazetguy]

[ToolBox]

[69aircooled]

I agree with the folks above, especially on the positive cable missing a grommet. Most likely the exhaust fumes entering the bus cabin would come from the lower header connection at the heater box (exhaust from #1 and #3 cylinders) though you could have a more serious exhaust leak at one on the head outlets. Is final exhaust pipe/muffler exiting well enough from behind your bus to assure none is coming back into the engine bay?
Headers can be ok, but a stock muffler is best for heat and overall running of a stock, near stock engine. Sorry if I'm just reiterating what already been said.

[Eric&Barb]

[Eric&Barb]

This is a good thread to start with, also do dig into the VW dealer parts manual mentions in that thread.

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=451109

Get yourself the Bentley reprint of the VW dealer workshop manual for your bus and its year of manufacture.

http://www.wolfsburgwest.com/wolfsburg_new/accessories/books.cfm

You can find a copy in good used condition in the classifieds or out at swap meets for a lot less.
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In Stereo, Where Available!

[nate9871]

this is a 1966 Kombi.

Mechanical reliability is most important but I like to keep things mostly stock. I'm not concerned with originality as much.

I don't know if I can install the front thin properly without dropping the engine.

Thanks for the great comments.

[nate9871]

Since the rear tin has a hole for preheat I'm going to assume this is a later engine 68+ correct?

Are there different front tin variations between earlier and later engines?

I'd like to order a stock exhaust. Are they year/engine specific? I doubt my engine and bus are the same year.

[Eric&Barb]

[EverettB]

[Eric&Barb]

[Clara]

Good advice from all.

Yes, 66, early 67 used that rear tin when new.
The 38 mm hole on the right that is smaller than the fresh air hole, it's for the pre-heat hose that draws warm air into the air cleaner. I had to hunt for it, cool you have it!
I recommend getting a 1500 air cleaner and hooking up a pre-heat hose. It makes the engine run better, especially if it is damp and/ or cool. In dry climates over 70F you don't need the pre-heat. But the oil bath is better.

Here is my 66 kombi in 2011 when the engine was fresh and clean.
A 1600 sp with stock gearing works great in that bus.
It has clamps on fresh air hoses, seals at the fresh air hoses at the rear tin, etc.

[nate9871]

Thanks all for the great input. Other things I have noticed since:

1. I tried to use the engine casting number to ID what engine size etc I have. Nothing is there, no markings. What the hell is thing? CC size?


2.I bought a Bosch tune up kit for the 66-67 year. https://www.busdepot.com/37132
Rotor and cap didn't fit. Distributor appears to be aftermarket? 009 style or something like that.


3. Is this maybe a mexican engine or something? No case markings, aftermarket carb, distributor, Brazilain fuel pump, tins don't fit well etc.

I like OEM and I'd assume a 100% German engine is better/more reliable right?

What am I looking at guys? Is this thing a piece of junk?

[Eric&Barb]

[langsmer]

[tasb]

A Mexican or Brazilian engine case is not necessarily a bad thing, could be a better option than a 50+ year old German case that's been machined and re-machined numerous times. Remove and disassemble that engine to a long block, re-torque the heads and methodically put it back together with ALL the proper parts using your research, the tools on this site and our advice.

Your distributor is at least a German 009. Best to match a German carburetor with the correct vacuum advance distributor as Clara pictured above. You likely already have the tune up parts for it Ignore that bright shiny apparatus on the left it's an optional cabin heater blower. First choice on top end components would be NOS German (pricey=hard to find) or restored German. Next choice Brazil or Mexican, Brosol, brand etc. I personally don't consider any other options an option.

Brazilian and Mexican components are not aftermarket. The are production parts from the VW factories/suppliers in those countries. Some parts are not as good or long lasting as the original German but a least they are available and priced affordable.
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1957 Kombi low mileage 36 hp governor equipped M 178 Slow Drag Winner 2014, 2015, 2018

1965 hardtop Deluxe Microbus owned since 1990 M 620 factory 12 v 1500cc

1961 (October)Single Cab- Road Trip Workhorse