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Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan (stock)
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lhd65bug
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 16, 2021 4:14 pm    Post subject: Re: Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan Reply with quote

Great thread ! Fantastic attention to detail; Kudos !
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PostPosted: Tue Mar 23, 2021 5:51 pm    Post subject: Re: Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan Reply with quote

Nice work! Great attention to detail. Love the color too.

Can't wait to see more progress. I did the same thing not long ago and it was super challenging but it was worth it now that I can drive it around.
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PostPosted: Mon Mar 29, 2021 9:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan Reply with quote

Thanks for the feedback guys! I really appreciate it.

Tonight I ran one of my H30/31 carburetor bodies through the mill to face the throttle shaft bore area for a shaft O-ring. I have a few different bodies apart for hardware plating, tapping the fuel inlet, alodine wash, general cleanup, and throttle shaft bushings.
Reference this topic for more info
I really liked my H30/31 and 205T combination on the 1971 bus I drove for a few years, even though MPG was never great. I don't care for the "newer" DVDA distributors since I have yet to find one with a working retard diaphragm. Because 34pict carbs don't have the right vacuum setup to correctly operate a SVA distributor, I have pretty much relegated myself to either the 30pict series or an H30/31 aftermarket.
Right now my stock 30pict is disassembled for throttle shaft bushings but that has turned out to be more of challenge due to the lack of material on the casting. I don't think I'll be able to bush it but after milling this H30/31, I do think I may be able to mill it for an O-ring.

So here we are tonight. I bought a pair of four-flute 7/16" end mills, a reamer .005" undersize from 8mm, pack of 100 size 011 Viton O-rings, and chopped the head of a junk intake valve off as a centering guide (thanks NSracing for that tip!) I had planned to bolt the body up in a section of angle iron but Nick reminded me to just use the mill vise and skip the angle iron. DUH!

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After I centered the body up on the valve stem, I snugged everything down and adjusted a bit to get a clean plunge every time. With no bushings installed, the stem was centering up on the casting bore, and there was a fair amount of slop so it did take a few minutes to get lined up.
Here's a shot of the end mill after a light cut:

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Now here's where I messed up.. I was second guessing my centering job since there was so much play between the body and the valve stem. I KNEW in my mind that castings are not always drilled concentric. But when I made the first cut and looked it over, I noticed one side of the casting was being cut thinner than I really wanted, so dialed my X axis over just a tiny bit to leave more material there. I made .010" passes each time, fit checking a shaft and o-ring to the body, and after I got to about .050" on the R/H side of the body, I milled the L/H side to about .060" deep to let the O-ring seat a little deeper. Then I fit checked the shaft with both O-rings and found I'd milled the one side just a little off center, so the throttle shaft was pinching the O-ring. Facepalm!

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It didn't take much to shave off the tiny bit that was pinching the O-ring - it's just not as clean as I had hoped. Up next for this guy is a set of McMaster-Carr bronze/PTFE bushings.
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PostPosted: Mon Apr 05, 2021 8:27 pm    Post subject: Re: Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan Reply with quote

Not too much more going on at the moment but I just got another shipment of parts in! I decided to replace the rear brake drums, and I bought a pair of "IAP made in Italy" drums from Rock Auto. I was hoping they were OMCs but they don't appear to be - just some generic brand casting. The quality looks ok out of the box. The only legible words are "BDC" on the outboard side and "DIA.MAX 231.5MM" on the inboard side.
Several of the zinc electroplating topics and various sites I've found helped with setting up a basic zinc electroplate process at home. I'm using an old model train power supply, a solid 4lb bar of zinc, zinc powder, karo, epsom salts, vinegar and water to plate these drums with zinc for corrosion resistance prior to epoxy and paint.. I'll post some photos once I finish them up!


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Can anyone help with a part number or photo of any plugs that go in the inspect/adjust holes of the drums?
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PostPosted: Sat Apr 17, 2021 6:04 pm    Post subject: Re: Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan Reply with quote

The zinc plating didn't come out quite like I had hoped but I'm satisfied with it protecting the metal underneath. I plated a handful of different parts just to see how they did, then I painted my brake lathe in single stage urethane red, then I painted a handful of misc parts SS urethane black. Little things like that hold up major assemblies for a while! I got my alternator back together today, after turning the commutators, new bearings, and sandblast & alodine treat to the case. The back plate is steel and after I got it painted black, I was able to assemble everything pretty quickly.

Trailing arms zinc plated, steering worms, and hardware for the steering boxes. I reassembled a steering box with new bearings from Heimlich, seals from Wolfsburg West, and 00 grease from Tractor Supply... Then finally got my Drum Doktor reassembled. Since I'm replacing the rear drums I took the drum with bad threads and put it on the lathe for practice.


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Link

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 18, 2021 9:06 am    Post subject: Re: Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan Reply with quote

Regarding those drum plugs the ones i bought from ac.net say
113 609 163 . 16 count pkg for a 74 super .

Tried inserting a photo but cannot get it from gallery to post.
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PostPosted: Sun Apr 18, 2021 6:07 pm    Post subject: Re: Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan Reply with quote

calvinater wrote:
Regarding those drum plugs the ones i bought from ac.net say
113 609 163 . 16 count pkg for a 74 super .

Tried inserting a photo but cannot get it from gallery to post.

Thanks for the tip! I checked the part number and it looks like those are for late model bugs with the inspection/adjust holes in the backing plates. The earlies have two holes in the outboard face of the drum, and no holes on the backing plate. There may not even be anything that goes there, I just assumed there was!
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2021 3:03 pm    Post subject: Re: Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan Reply with quote

Amazing project, looking forward to the next updates!
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2021 4:59 pm    Post subject: Tools! Reply with quote

New Tooling!

Guys Iím stoked to post this today!


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This is a 1974 Powermatic Millrite vertical milling machine I brought home yesterday. It will allow me to take this bug up to the next level of ďdone right!Ē
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PostPosted: Fri Apr 23, 2021 5:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan Reply with quote

So jealous!!! I want one!

Have fun!!!!!! Save the curlyies from the Mag case, for fire starters, when you go camping!
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PostPosted: Wed Oct 13, 2021 10:57 pm    Post subject: Re: Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan Reply with quote

Pan is ready for powdercoat!

This week I finished up a few small things to move on to the next stage of reassembly.. It took a while to get all the parts in for rebuilding the steering gearbox but I felt like it was really worth it to spend the time and get this box just right for a long service life. I got the worm bearings and cap filler plugs from Marcel(Heimlech), cap gasket and shaft seals from Wolfsburg West, and used two other core boxes to make one good unit. Along the way I sandblasted, acid dipped, and zinc plated the hardware and some parts. I wanted to keep the original hardware wherever possible so it was nice having donor boxes to do that.
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I sprayed the worm gear with a dry lube, Molykote 321R, prior to assembly to help with dry running as I built up and adjusted to box; although I zinc plated the outer shaft area, I opted to keep the worm itself out of the plating solution in case any of it flaked off.. I don't want any metal contamination in the box.
A really nice addition to paper gaskets is Hylomar gasket joint compound - a little goes a long way - it's fairly expensive but I really like it. I used it on both sides of the cover paper gasket.
A tip to anyone working on the gearbox... if you don't have the box assembled, don't try to turn either shafts. They will move around and lock up if their end play is too great. Also take note of my custom VW gearbox adjusting tool Wink

Next I moved on to the pan!
The pans have been welded in for months (and yes I did clean up the welds on both sides even though I said I wasn't going to Laughing ) but I needed three things.. the battery clamp stud, the battery bracket, and material to fabricate new heater outlet tubes. I took a stick of 3/8 seamless carbon steel tubing and roughly bent up two pieces to replace the rusted out stock tubes.. the bends are not that accurate because I did not have a tubing bender with the correct radius die.
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Once I had those bent up, I used a flapper wheel and roloc to clean the metal and prep for welding, then buttered the battery bracket and floor pan with 3M panel adhesive to spot weld in.
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Short story short, the spot welding did not work for this. I don't know if the bracket wasn't clean enough or if the welder didn't have the amperage to do it, but it sucked, and I ended up having to make a horrible looking mig weld.
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I also had a hard time getting the hold down stud and its reinforcement bracket secured; I wanted to butter them with 3M, spot weld the stud to the bracket, then spot the assembly in to the pan with more 3M. Unfortunately that did not work at all and I ended up mig welding the stud to the bracket, then I was able to spot weld them on with some 3M in between. It looks ok, more stock than not, but I wasn't that happy with it.
The heater tubes welded in ok and I used a little bit of 3M on them, even though the tech sheet says not to mig weld it around it. Yes it does catch on fire, and heavily smokes.
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And finally, here's a shot of my go-to equipment for this work. Not pictured of course is the air compressor, which is a 30 gallon Craftsman.
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I noticed underneath the pan my 1/8" holes for the clecos did not get filled in during pan welding, so I'll flip the pan tomorrow prior to loading on the trailer, and weld them in. My plan is to get the pan entirely sandblasted and powdercoated satin/semigloss black as stock. That is not my first choice.. I actually have a gallon each of gloss black single stage, epoxy, and urethane high build that I had planned to paint the pan with, seam sealing along the way. I just don't have the time for that so hopefully getting it powdercoated will help get this back on four wheels.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2021 7:39 am    Post subject: Re: Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan Reply with quote

Nice build. Love all the DIY. Especially the machine and welding. Do you plan to tackle case work too? IF so can't wait. My mill is not big enough to tackle that level.
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PostPosted: Thu Oct 14, 2021 8:51 am    Post subject: Re: Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan Reply with quote

matthew henricks wrote:
Nice build. Love all the DIY. Especially the machine and welding. Do you plan to tackle case work too? IF so can't wait. My mill is not big enough to tackle that level.

The original case needs a line bore, and thatís something I donít have any tooling or experience doing so Iíll have to find a shop to do it. Even though I can easily do the rest of the case work, Iíll probably get the case decked at the same time to save a step. Right now my mill is still on a pallet not even trammed in yet so Iím using it as a big drill press until I get it on the floor and set up Smile
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 15, 2021 4:17 pm    Post subject: Re: Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan Reply with quote

Just dropped the old bones off today for Powdercoat! The guys told me their powder prices quadrupled since I initially got a quote. So depending upon what number they come back with I may just get it blasted, and paint it like Iíd originally planned for...
and of course it rained after I loaded the pan up. 😂

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PostPosted: Thu Oct 21, 2021 1:53 pm    Post subject: Re: Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan Reply with quote

Iím still waiting to hear back from the powder coat shop, and today I got in a couple orders Iíd been waiting for. I wanted to see how well the donor/core engine runs and I was able to get it idling for a short time, but the stock 30 pict I rebuilt has a sticky needle so it was a short run before I saw fuel spilling out of the impact tube.
Legend has it they all ďmark their spotĒ or something however I think this one is a little more leaky than it should be...
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The end play was good but evidently the seal was not
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PostPosted: Fri Oct 22, 2021 10:52 am    Post subject: Re: Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan Reply with quote

Successful core engine startup!

The core donor engine runs!
So usually when rebuilding a carburetor, I've heard it's best to reinstall the float needle that was in the carb; something about the aftermarket needles being poor quality. Unfortunately the stock needle just wasn't having it! Under pump pressure at idle, I was getting fuel puddling out of the impact tube, which is a sure sign of a failed open needle.
No big deal - I swapped the needle out with one that came in the rebuild kit, and problem solved. There is no float height adjustment to the Solex 30 pict 1, so with the same number of washers as removed originally, the needle is in, and the carb is ready to go. I will keep an eye on the choke shaft as it seemed to have a little more resistance to movement at full close than I like. My 1971 bus gave me a little headache with the choke shaft being too tight but maybe I'm just looking for problems that aren't there Smile

I stabbed a muffler on the back, but did not secure it since the head studs are corroded and the heater box connections are completely rusted off.
Oh, and the flywheel seal came apart in four pieces when I put my seal puller on it last night which is why so much oil puked out during startup attempts... When I place my parts orders I usually order a few extras, so I had two Elring front main seals on hand to use. I'll probably use this engine at least for a while, so I installed the stock weight reground flywheel that came off the OG 1967 engine. Don't look too hard at the gland nut.. I'll replace it when I order my clutch Smile
The oil pressure switch was bad too, so I swapped in a good used one from my stash.


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Link


One of the VW club members locally had a core IRS transmission for sale so I got it from him to keep on hand.. I can't decide if I want to tear it down for parts, or if I should keep it together for a project down the road Smile One thing is for sure.. I am NOT doing an IRS swap in this beetle!
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Last edited by scrivyscriv on Sun Oct 24, 2021 8:52 pm; edited 1 time in total
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PostPosted: Sun Oct 24, 2021 7:24 pm    Post subject: Re: Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan Reply with quote

113.905.205K distributor rebuild


Earlier this year I ordered a pair of 205K and one 205T distributors from the classifieds here, since my engine had a generic 009 distributor and I wanted to put on something a little more application specific. From my research, it appears the VW 113.905.205K is the appropriate and year correct distributor to go with the Solex 30 pict 1 carburetor, for my 1967 1500 engine.
So referencing the Bosch Tune Up Parts chart, I disassembled all three distributors and glass beaded the bodies. Samba user Heimlich sells the internal felt oil pads and the lower bushings, and I got some from him to rebuild at least one unit. I also sourced the fiber washers but I can't recall where I got them so apologies for not giving credit to the source Smile
No affiliation with these links; here is where I bought some of the parts:
Distributor felt wick
Short distributor bushings
Bosch distributor grease
Distributor body O-ring
Condenser
Points

As received, the 205K core:
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Note the 205K vacuum can arm has a slight bend to it - the 205T can does not. According to the linked chart, a 205K vacuum can should give 25į of spark advance at 65mm/hg, and a 205T canister gives 32-35į advance at 80mm/hg. So for a given vacuum signal, the 205K will advance less than the 205T. I will keep that in mind for the future when I'm running and driving the bug!
After cleanup, I tapped out the lower bushing with a punch, removed the old felt pad, and tapped in the replacement bushing. The bushing was too tight to insert the shaft, but that is normal for bushings depending on the application. It is not uncommon to ream a bushing to fit, after installing it.
I found a thread here in the Split forum where a guy made a steering swing arm pin reamer from an old stock part.. he cut a slot in an old steering link pin and spun it by hand inside the new installed bushing, as a crude but effective reamer.
Swing lever pin repair
Bingo! So, I cut two opposing slots in an older core distributor shaft, with a slight back bevel, and passed it through the 205K body slowly with a drill until I was able to freely install and spin the OG shaft. There is almost no discernible side to side play. Once all the reaming and fit checking was done, I used a pick to slide the felt in position, then gave it a liberal oiling with some machine oil.
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Not shown here is the steel shim that goes under the points plate, and should go back in to prevent premature wear to the aluminum distributor body! I almost put it together without the shim.

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I only had to take the drive dog off one more time.. My end play was pretty loose with only two steel shims and two fiber washers, so I added one more stock steel shim under the drive dog to bring my total end play down to a decent .012".

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Now I'm not 100% sure I have the drive dog lined up correctly.. I went by the blue Bentley book to orient it to the shaft, but my rotor notch does not line up with the distributor #1 notch so I could have it wrong. Good news is there's only a 50/50 chance it's wrong Laughing

Fully assembled:
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Finally, just a tiny dab of Bosch distributor grease - which is much tackier and stickier than regular grease - goes on the four points cam lobes for the points rubbing block to wear against. Then I set the new points to .016" and installed a new condenser. A stock used rotor and cap go on top, new O-ring on the body, and this guy is back in a ziploc bag waiting to be installed and adjusted on the engine!
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PostPosted: Tue Oct 26, 2021 4:32 pm    Post subject: Re: Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan Reply with quote

In 2015 when I was rebuilding my 1971 busí engine, I attempted a rebuild of a stock APG Pierburg square top fuel pump to go with it. After sourcing the pump and some spares on the classifieds here, I ordered the standard rebuild kit from Wolfsburg West since it very clearly needed a new diaphragm. Although I generally like and prefer stock VW when possible, my opinion (which is worth what you have paid for it) is that VW grossly under engineered the fuel system in favor of simplicity and production speed. There are too many rubber grommets and lengths of exposed fuel line that can cause catastrophic failures when they wear - as we are all well aware of.
To make the design a bit safer, I decided to use AN fittings and hard tubing where possible. I taper reamed and tapped the inlet and outlet for 1/16Ē NPT fitting, and found a 1/16 to 4AN nipple designed for nitrous applications... then when I bolted it up on my bus and ran it, the operating pin punched a hole through the diaphragm and filled my crankcase up with gas.
This pump has been sidelined since then, and Iíve heard the new WW diaphragm is really nice, so I redid the rebuild today with a new WW diaphragm.
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I know, I know, itís not super clean and stuff, itís been sitting in a box since I removed it, but itís ready to go on the donor engine.

Next I tig welded the stock 1967 clutch cross shaft.. it looks horrible so donít judge me too harshly, Iím just learning how to tig weld Laughing After tig, I let it cool, then sandblasted it to remove whatever residual stresses were left over from welding, and zinc plated it at home. The starter side bushing is a little loose on it so I plated that end a couple of times to bring up the overall diameter.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2021 1:43 pm    Post subject: Two-year update! Reply with quote

An exciting update to mark the two-year anniversary of bringing this Java green monster home!

Iíd first like to thank all three levels of government in this country - local, state and federal - for the broadly reaching, sweeping responses to ďthe virusĒ that helped/forced me to realign my priorities; otherwise I would have been daily driving this bug a year ago instead of spending time with my family and developing our homestead.
Secondly I am absolutely pleased with the powdercoat job from Rickís powdercoating here in town. They didnít miss a single bolt hole, stud, or fuel line, and the vin stamping is still completely legible! I did spend some time on the rear suspension castings smoothing the factory weld spatter and taking the sharp edges and rough surfaces down. In the past I have been less than satisfied with powder coated castings of any kind so I wanted to make sure I cleaned up really well.
I chose satin black.. any higher gloss tends to show every imperfection.

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PostPosted: Fri Nov 12, 2021 2:25 pm    Post subject: Re: Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan Reply with quote

Nice looking Pan. Agree high gloss shows all the imperfections. All my chassis parts are satin black.
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1964 Original Owner build Thread. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=702135&highlight=

Ambulance Fan's. https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=627707&highlight=

Parts i am looking for:
64 Cardboard glove box
64 bug nice used front/rear Black RHD floor mat.
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