Scrivyscriv's 1967 java green sunroof sedan (stock)

[scrivyscriv]

Much obliged for that!

Here's my "backup" distributor. It's another stock VW 113905205K SVA. Stuff like this must just be low hanging fruit! I love rebuilding little parts like this, or the fuel pump, carburetor, steering box, etc. It's just so satisfying to restore old parts. I've already got it torn down, glass beaded, and the body dipped in alodine.
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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[mukluk]

[scrivyscriv]

The old bag just needs a good alignment and she’ll be ready for daily driver status!

I put it through the paces on a ten mile trip down the road, about seven miles of 55mph clear interstate and the rest around town stop-and-go in Millington. I flogged it on the way back, hitting a top speed of 69mph downhill - it’s very windy, and I should be able to hit 75 on a flat stretch with no headwind.

The timing and fuel problems are completely resolved. It feels like I remember my bus feeling when it was at its peak! It’s weird how you can “feel” a car working right or not.

My junk yard trip was fruitless this time - our 15-passenger van just decided to time out on the driver’s window regulator, and the one van they had was manual windows! Of course, no VWs to be found. I haven’t seen an aircooled in the Memphis area junk yards in about fifteen years.

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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[scrivyscriv]

I don’t recall ever paying attention to the design of the crook, but since I plan on swapping all the ‘67 engine parts over to the stock single port waiting on back burner, I’d like to get the most year-correct type.

I’m only familiar with the hard-J crook, the type that looks more like a candy cane; however the wolfsburg west part is more noodley. Anyone know what type is year correct?
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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[mukluk]

Congrats on getting things running again.

Other options when you don't have a shepherd's crook (or broke yours ) are to make a replacement from a piece of old brake line (flush out the line first), or just use a longer length of vacuum hose and loop it up through the clamp on the oil bath.
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1960 Ragtop w/Semaphores "Inga"

[viiking]

[wcfvw69]

[67rustavenger]

You can get a replacement "Shepherds Crook" from WW.
https://www.wolfsburgwest.com/cart/DetailsList.cfm?ID=211129493
I bought one for my JG 67 a while back when I was running a stock engine. The fit was pretty good.

It's good to read that you got the running issues sorted, even if it was user error!
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I have learned over the years.
Cheap parts are gonna disappoint you.
Buy Once, Cry Once!

There's never enough time to do it right the first time. But there's always enough time to do it thrice.
GFY's Xevin and VW_Jimbo!

[scrivyscriv]

Yep, that’s a length of rubber hose. I had a nice stock OG steel shepards crook I was saving for it, and after I put it on, decided to bend it a bit since the bend had been stretched open.

And of course I immediately cracked and kinked the tube.



So I’ve got the vac line running until I rustle up another shepards crook. It’s always a bummer to break old stuff like that!
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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[aquifer]

Am I seeing a rubber vacuum hose running from the carburetor to the distributor?

Forgive me for noticing, and you're free to ignore this, but I learned something about this recently. When I first got my 67 I accidentally noticed that the vacuum canister on the distributor was full of gas. Yep, gasoline. I was stumped. How could that possibly be?

Research ensued. I learned that the bend on the original steel vacuum line is supposed to be positioned in an upward direction, higher than the port on the carburetor. Mine was on there upside down, so that the line was at the same level as the carburetor, and everything ran downhill to the distributor.

I believe that the PO had repeatedly pumped the accelerator or dumped gas down the carburetor to get the car started, perhaps even over a period of time, and gas was able to run out the vacuum port into the line, and run down into the distributor. It was a direct line of downhill travel.

With the line on there correctly, that can't happen because it would just run back into the carburetor.

I pulled the distributor out and literally dumped the gas out of the vacuum canister. I'd never seen anything like it before. It was literally full of gas - not kidding. Near as I can tell, it hadn't damaged the diaphram because I could manually advance it and put my finger over the port to test it. Time will tell I suppose.

So, for whatever that is worth, I noticed your vacuum line and thought I'd mention it!
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Current hobby vehicles:
1967 Beetle
1998 Jaguar XJR, restored myself, in near-immaculate condition

[scrivyscriv]

Alright y’all, I think I’ve got these quirky issues knocked out!


I got the valves adjusted, all the exhaust valves but #4 were tight, I think a little settling in is to be expected with all new exhaust valves, springs, and retainers.
Setting the timing was my backfire problem. I was erroneously static timing to 0°, compared to the actual spec of 7.5°BTDC for this distributor. So I was under-advancing like I thought, but it wasn’t a mechanical problem - it was user error.

The H30/31 is set and adjusted differently from the 30pict series; its idle circuit more closely resembles a 34 pict than anything. I got the choke, idle speed and mixture set, idling about 850 RPM with a 52° points dwell. The engine is snappy now and exhibits none of the problems I’ve been troubleshooting down!

My oldest son and I have a hairscut this evening, making a short backroads trip that should verify the last problem is fixed, fuel delivery at idle.
I’m excited to get these things whupped. Although I enjoy working on an old aircooled VW, I simply don’t have the free time to devote to it right now, so I’m hoping for a good 3,000 mile stretch of smiles and miles

Got my old school meter on eBay years ago.
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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[VW_Jimbo]

Find TDC with a wood dowel down the plug hole. That will get you TDC and confirmation. From there print this out.

Then go here and figure out what marks you have and what they are supposed to to mean.
https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=251672

Now set up the timing gun and turn the distributor to line up the mark.
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[scrivyscriv]

Would being retarded 7.5° from base timing cause the carb backfiring at full throttle, and an overall lack of top end speed and acceleration?

I ask this because as I was looking in the Bentley for the static time procedure, I realized it says to time at the 7.5° BTDC notch, the “first” notch on the pulley. I’m using some random pulley from my pile and it has three notches plus the dimple. The “first” notch on this pulley is lined up with the dimple, so I assume it’s actually 0° TDC at this mark. If that’s true, then the next notch would be 7.5° BTDC, and the one after that is likely a 10° BTDC notch.

I re-timed it at the next notch, and I’m about 90% sure that’s the correct 7.5° notch.
Any input is appreciated.
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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[VW_Jimbo]

Popping out the carb can be an overly lean condition. Just to add a bit more head scratching into the situation.
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Jimbo

There is never enough time to do it right the first time, but all the time necessary the second time!

[scrivyscriv]

I don't have a ton of time to get everything done at once, between night shift, running a coffee roasting business, and having a big family - so I'm only hitting one or two little things at a time to tune up.

All the plugs were gapped ok with no carbon or cracks, although the screw-on tip was chewed up on the #4 plug so I had to replace the plug. All the wires are on right, dual port nuts are tight both sides.
I found the points gap was out of range at a tight .014", the range is .016-.020". I reset it to a good .016" but I'll verify dwell next time I start the engine.
Rotor's good, cap looks okay inside and out. So I static timed again. Now I did notice the coil has leaked a bit of the brown goop out of the bottom - the book says that's normal, so I'll just carry on with the tuneup.
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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[scrivyscriv]

Thank you for catching me on that. I skimmed over the face of the dial and misread my vac gauge, thinking the 100 on the inner ring was mm/hg when it was actually kpa! In my mind, I was looking for 100mm/hg, and when I saw the “100,” I mentally continued on.

80mm vacuum at full advance sounds right, just looking at the arm. It hits the vac can and prevents further advancing right about that range of vacuum - but I can’t get very accurate on my hand pump, it doesn’t even indicate hash marks until it gets to 5in/hg. So I’m estimating/interpolating.

The vac can shows no part numbers. Here are a couple of it disassembled on the bench tonight

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Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[diablosandwich]

Are there numbers stamped in the vacuum canister arm? 210 would be for the 205K and 279 would be for the 205T, I believe.

Casey
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1966 Java Greens

[mukluk]

[scrivyscriv]

It’s backfiring in the intake.

Checking the distributor reveals something interesting that I don’t think is right, but I don’t have the data to verify it myself.

The can gets down to 27” and has an ever so slight bleed down at that high vacuum - it’s not a gross leak. I think it’s probably okay, although I’m certainly not experienced in this area to say with certainty.

What I DO think may be the problem is all my advance is used up, physically no movement left at the plate, by 4-5” of vacuum. I had some 113-905-205K’s and T’s broken down at the same time on the bench when I overhauled this 205K. It’s altogether possible I have the incorrect can or points plate installed - but I don’t know enough to do more than speculate.

I’m working down the list of basic tuneup steps I always advise people to do too, starting with what I can do inside an enclosed garage, then moving on to stuff that needs to be done outdoors. On the list is plug checks, valve adjustment - all new exhaust valves need to be checked again anyway - points dwell, timing, and the basic choke/mixture/speed on this carburetor.
_________________
Robert in Memphis
Dünkelgrügen 1967 Java Green bug thread
Engine rebuild thread
If you're ever in the Memphis area, you are welcome to stop by for advice and help.

[VW_Jimbo]