1Z TDI Westy - Build Thread

[erste]

I had that dead pedal issue until I hooked up the cruise wiring. AHU TDI

Neil makes a great point about cruise being an option. I wonder how the automatics are wired? It's been a while, but I think it's the brake light circuit that's the main issue. Mine is currently working, but the brake sensor doesn't shut it off, just the clutch and the stalk. This was a roadtrip repair and I'm pretty sure I just grounded the brake switch.

Good luck with the transmission work! I don't think there are any US suppliers for the input shaft. Maybe Chris at T3 had them at some point, or maybe one of the rebuilders has one on the shelf. Shipping from Brickwerks has been really fast for me though. Same as any of the other stateside vendors.

.75 4th with the 4.57 seems good. I have the .85(?) stock vanagon 4th and (straight cut from gears) and the 4.14. I was worried it would be revving too high on the freeway, but it's fine. Maybe I said that already. Similar ratio. I think you'll be happy with that gearing.

[valvecovergasket]

[erste]

[vwwestyman]

It was 2013 that I reworked my wiring harness for my 1Z, but I am 99% sure this is correct...

The ECU looks for the clutch pedal switch to make a connection to ground when it is NOT depressed, and for the brake pedal to make a connection to ground when it IS depressed (brake lights on). OR, with both pedals at rest, the ECU sees a ground from the clutch and no ground from the brake. If I recall correctly, this represents a change from the older cruise control systems, where the power for the system ran through both the clutch and brake switches, so tapping either cut power to the cruise ECU and turned it off briefly and until set or resume was pushed again.

In my Bus, I used a relay for the brake pedal input. Brake light energizes the circuit, and completes the connection of 87a to 30. In this case, 30 goes to ground and 87a goes to the ECU.

Eventually the switch I used for the clutch pedal got flaky, so I just wired that wire to ground... Not the "safest" but it works ok. I just remember to tap the brakes before hitting the clutch if cruise is set. It's pretty rare that I wouldn't do that anyway.
_________________
Dave Cook

President, Wild Westerner Club

1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing

[vwwestyman]

I just went out and pulled the relay and verified that I had connected 30 to ground, and the other wire goes to 87a.

So if you just simply connect both the wire for the clutch switch and the brake switch to ground, the engine will think the clutch pedal is at rest and the brake pedal is depressed. That may not cause any running issues, but it wouldn't quite be correct either.

Also, you can use VCDS to enable/disable cruise control. So I bet if you simply disabled cruse control, it wouldn't matter what happened to the two wires. That's also probably what is done with the industrial engines and the like.

But as I said earlier, you're this far in. Just get the cruise control working! Worth it!
_________________
Dave Cook

President, Wild Westerner Club

1978 Champagne Edition Westy, repowered to '97 Jetta TDI
1973 Wild Westerner
My Thing

[valvecovergasket]

Good deal, appreciate the info!

[Vanagon Nut]

[valvecovergasket]

still working with malone on a reduced fuel tune.
testing out the first update still, seems like EGTs are a bit lower but havent spent enough time driving during the day to really judge the smoke - its still smoky, less so, but how much less than the previous is tough to say yet.

grounding all the clutch/brake stuff fixed the hiccup on launch, so thats all sorted!

and i got my first UOA back from blackstone. seems so far so good.
though its going to take me years at this rate to accumulate enough miles for the next oil change

[Zeitgeist 13]

[valvecovergasket]

For the work time modding the cluster, maybe 3 hr? Was just a lot of mocking up and test fitting the little panels otherwise it's not too bad of a job. Little tiny belt sander was helpful to fit the sides of the panels and get them nice and flat

That speedo and 4 way gauge were straight off their site, off the shelf combo for tach and mph combo at the time. They're "custom" but really only for font/color/graphics, but if they don't list it I bet they could make it for you...

I remember asking about the W terminal... And as I recall that tach only works off of a digital signal, they have a specific tach (or had, at that time) that was for W diesel input but it wasn't possible to get that version with the speedo combo 2 gauge setup.

Sending units all come with the gauges, the speedo/tach really only has the gps puck - thats magnetic, and I hid under the dash mat - otherwise no other senders. The four way only has a couple since I'm reusing the stock van fuel level and the volt meter comes off the harness. The only pain was adapting the rest at the motor end since they're SAE thread but that's not rocket science.
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[Zeitgeist 13]

Thanks, that feedback really helps. This phase of the project just blew up this morning, and I need a fairly quick turnaround. I see that Northwesty has an adapter for a 1/8" NPT to VW coolant sender insert for the temp gauge.

https://www.north-westy.com/parts/volkswagen-audi-coolant-temp-sensor-adapter-m10x1-1-8npt/

I'll follow up with an email to Speedhut.

Thanks again,
Casey
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[valvecovergasket]

Their gauges were 2-3 months out when I ordered pre covid craziness, so heads up on that end.
I don't think they stock anything until it's ordered given the infinite color/font/style combos
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[Zeitgeist 13]

Their site claims two to three weeks out, but we all know that's a dicey proposition right now. I sent them an email. As a backup, I'm contemplating a 3 3/8" speedo on the left and the same size quad gauge on the right, with a 2 1/16" tach and clock stacked in the middle.
_________________
Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[valvecovergasket]

Edit - went back and looked through my order history and it was about a month,.3 weeks ish, from order to delivery
If they fit your application they're definitely worth waiting for! I'm really happy with ours
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gone, but not forgotten: '83 tdi westy - swap thread

[Zeitgeist 13]

Sorry to keep pestering you, but this is such a cool project. Do you have a good source for a 14 pin Molex/Deutsch type plug, or did you make do with a more common 12 pin?
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[valvecovergasket]

I use Delphi gt series connectors for most things including everything on this van and they've got a 10,12,14, etc larger capacity versions
You can get em at mouser and digikey, I can get you p/ns for the pins and connectors but probably not until Monday or so when I'm not on my phone..
They're Delphi Gt 280 series If you're googling though...
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[valvecovergasket]

trying to keep this updated as i find things that would be worth doing differently if i were to do it again - the topic of turbo oil drains

ill preface this by saying i didnt drive the van much last winter so most of the miles have been during warmer weather.
originally i started the motor and put the early miles on with 15-40 but that seemed a bit thick given the drain arrangement.
im running 5-40 in it now, which combined with a little porting of the drain flange seemed to help any oil backup/smoke i was seeing in warmer weather, so no real complains when warm with the current arrangement.

but with some more miles on it in colder weather this year it seems things arent flowing quite as well as they need to, most noticeable at cold idle for obvious reasons!
i think ive seen waldo mention (maybe not in this thread?) that 3/4" oughta do the trick.
plan is to upsize from the current -8 drain arrangement, and i hope to have the parts here within the next few weeks assuming no shipping calamities

will take lots of pictures and report back, luckily its all easy to access and assembly should be pretty trivial.
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[DuncanS]

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L9XNFGG/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1 These are Deutsch plugs. What I used.

Duncan

[?Waldo?]

I had to look back through your thread a bit to find where you show the oil return line. You've got several things going on that I would do differently.

I prefer using the Jetta/Golf manifold and turbo placement rather than the Vanagon/Quantum placement. You get more vertical drop for the turbo drain. The Vanagon turbo position can obviously work but is worse IMO. In your situation, I don't know that I would make that change considering the amount of reworking of intake, exhaust and oil lines required.

Your center cartridge is not 'clocked'. That places the offset from vertical at ~35°. Garrett specifies a max of 15° from vertical for proper drainage. VW did not clock the center section of the stock Vanagon turbo either, so again, it can work, it is just not ideal. To clock the center section, you would need to adjust the oil supply and return. Darkside offers custom oil supply lines with banjo fittings which can make that easy. I would make that change.

I don't like the aluminum fittings that you (and most people) used for the oil return. As I said earlier in the thread, they are weak, prone to leaking and other failure, and they are typically quite small ID. I prefer using steel or brass barb fittings and getting oil return line that is rated for hot oil. Summit has oil return hose that has the braided stainless outer sheath for strength. I typically use AN10 braided stainless Aeroquip hose from Summit with 5/8 barb and clamp well. Tape around the end of the cut hose reduces the number of needle pokes and curses. The end result is actually stronger, more reliable, and larger ID than the AN fittings.

[valvecovergasket]

i actually didnt realize that the knockoff deutsch pins had the open fold over crimps on the back, which i guess makes sense since it eliminates the need for the spendy deutsch crimpers. but to me thats the best part of their system. (there must be knock off crimp tools for not a fortune)
the deutsch pin density is nice but not out of this world compared to some of the alternatives.

here are the delphi gt 280s, since i didnt post a link before
http://terminalsupplyco.com/Store/Default.aspx?CATDRILL=DEL140

and at waytek
https://www.waytekwire.com/products/1504/GT-280-Connectors/&pg=3
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