1Z TDI Westy - Build Thread

[valvecovergasket]

[ndorian]

Thanks for this thread, hopefully you get many miles out of it. From the one pic it looks like enough drop from turbo to oil pan.

[valvecovergasket]

havent done a ton of driving with it yet but several cold starts at ~30degF and longer idles, drives across town with warm idling at lights and its definitely better.
has it completely eliminated the startup smoke? no. but im no longer seeing the same smoking i was on prolonged colder idle.
likely clocking would be the last step but ill run it for a while like this before making a call on whether i dive back in.
redoing the drain line is pretty trivial if needed so thatd be a quick job if i can sort the top side fitting if/when i cross that bridge


anyway, i tried to take pictures of the whole assembly and the various bits and bobs but its hard to convey the size difference... suffice to say everything is much bigger now
now equipped with -12 (3/4") line and fittings.

the only bottleneck now, as it would be regardless of line type is the fitting into the pan. the inside of the m16 was roughly the same size internally as a -8 and that step still exists. everything coming up to that is huge now.

pictures!

heres the pan fitting - you can see the -8 on the left, with the same size hole on the metric end existing part way into the -12 one

-8 v -12 (1/2" v 3/4") line

the actual fittings

and the whole mess side by side

im using a barb end on the turbo flange now, rather than the AN.
the ID of the hole on the barb flange is probably ~1/4" bigger than the drain hole on the turbo so this definitely isnt holding anything back. hard to tell from the pic but obviously the new one is a bit chunkier

in searching for flanges it also looks like -8 stuff is NLA with -10 being very common, so perhaps those overseas suppliers have wised up to this as well.
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gone, but not forgotten: '83 tdi westy - swap thread

[ALIKA T3]

I always wondered how that drain works considering the bottle necks on both ends like you mentioned.

I filled up a JX oil pan with water to see where it ends up, it's a bit higher than the gasket on that side, which lines up to the bottom of the turbo pretty much

I can't get aftermarket turbos/ rebuilt chra's to not piss oil as a result, I thing their tolerances are poor. My issue got solved using a 30 years old Borg Warner turbo
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Silicone Steering Boots and 930 Cv boots for sale in the classifieds.
Syncro transmission upgrade parts in the Classifieds.
Subaru EJ22+UN1 5 speed transmission
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=416343
Syncro http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=4...num+gadget

[valvecovergasket]

yeah not a lot of drop, not a lot of angle, etc

i think im likely making things harder regarding the level, using the air/oil cooler, as that will likely drain back its 1/3qt or whatever after sitting overnight.
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gone, but not forgotten: '83 tdi westy - swap thread

[Zeitgeist 13]

Not to further derail your build thread, but I wanted to thank you for all the help building a custom cluster.

The gauges are just sitting in there, so they're a little crooked, but overall it turned out decent enough.
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[uberaudi]

That looks great Zeit!

Valvecovergasket, you wouldn't still have part numbers for that -12 drain setup do ya? I need to get crackin on my 1z.
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'84 Adventurewagen 1Z Tdi, '89 Tintop ABA, and a 86 Syncro tintop WBX.

[DuncanS]

I like the tach and 4 gauge cluster, but a speedo to 120?? Not so much. Source?

Duncan

[Zeitgeist 13]

I chose the 120mph version because it put 60mph right at the 12:00 position.

These are Speedhut gauges. I'm impressed with the quality and features. The GPS speedo has a built in altimeter, clock and compass. It also logs peak speed and 0-60 and 1/4mile times. Those features aren't generally relevant to the T3, but they can be helpful when assessing performance during maintenance and tuning. It's also nice to have the LEDs from the center of the stock cluster built into the gauges, with the exception of the glow plug light.

Again, thanks to VCG for making this project that much easier.
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[valvecovergasket]

[uberaudi]

That's great thank you VCgasket! It's threads like these that keep motivation up and my progress (no matter how small) moving forward. I'll have a slight variation in my turbo drain fitting for clearance reasons, but other than that, your recipe should work out nicely.
Cheers!
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'84 Adventurewagen 1Z Tdi, '89 Tintop ABA, and a 86 Syncro tintop WBX.

[Zeitgeist 13]

[valvecovergasket]

[Zeitgeist 13]

It does take a while to do the full sweep, which I thought was weird. Is there something that can be done about that?
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[valvecovergasket]

[Zeitgeist 13]

Cool!
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Casey--

'89 Bluestar ALH w/12mm Waldo pump, PP764 and GT2052
'01 Weekender --> full camper
y u rune klassik?

[valvecovergasket]

they had it at 60 seconds (way way too fast) previously because, as i was told, some customers wanted to use the gauge to monitor when to stop filling the tank.
naturally fuel goes into the tank significantly faster than it leaves it (which is about the fastest youd want the filter to be)
that meant it wasnt filtering nearly enough to hide the extreme level change the sender sees in something like the 2wd tanks where its placed in the corner of a large square.

i believe it was increased 10x or so in the later revisions, which is much better, but could probably stand to be somewhat heavier. i measured it on the bench after the update, so that info is somewhere earlier in the thread

if it were up to me it could probably use an increase of 2x again, or thereabouts.

another thing to watch for, the low level light doesnt latch so youll see that blink every so often when the conditions are just right.

all of this may be much less of an issue in the syncro tanks due to sender placement.

anyway, after the update to the larger filter constant im a lot happier than i was with the performance initially.

/ramble
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gone, but not forgotten: '83 tdi westy - swap thread

[valvecovergasket]

vans been doing quite a bit of sitting around the last little few months, but the last day trip we took it on in july it was fairly regularly setting the 00575 intake manifold pressure control difference fault.



we'd be pulling longer highway grades in 4th or slower stuff in 3rd and it would be charging along with a good bit of power then cut off.
sometimes you could pedal around it for a second to get it to come back to life otherwise it needed a key cycle to heal the limp mode.
no power loss prior, in fact it was likely over boosting.



no CEL, because tune...


going through some sanity checks on the boost control system -
the hose in the ecu is new and tight
the hoses in/out of the n75 are good
snugged a couple of probably-not-loose-enough-to-cause-issues clamps on the intake plumbing
the n75 itself is a new pierburg from idparts, checks out electrically with no clogs
theres no leaks in the actuator, it holds 2bar indefinitely, and the rod length adjustment appears correct based on the wastegate crack open pressure


the only possibly strange thing i saw was the actuator linkage itself is maybe a little sticky
particularly on closing it would briefly catch in a couple spots. nothing alarming but it certainly wasnt buttery smooth.


i spent some time soaking the pivots in spray grease.
took it on a hard drive on prolonged hills at WOT the other night i wasnt able to reproduce code or any limp mode activating.
running logs in vcds for that drive and the requested and actual intake pressure looks great, initial spike, then small dip, then it settles right in line.



will have to keep an eye on it on a longer highway drive to see, but so far it looks like regular lubing of the wastegate actuator linkage is probably in order.

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[valvecovergasket]

a small update on the previous issue, and i guess more notes for myself as something to keep an eye on

as mentioned above the only thing i actually changed, other than the bench testing of the n75 and testing the pressure lines, is lubing the pivots on the wastegate.
it does seem to have cured the issue, and i can feel boost coming on sooner and not spiking like it once did.

i guess the turbo being as low to the ground as it is, and the van not having a belly pan, gets things pretty grimey on the linkage?
i had skimmed some threads on tdiclub about mk3s running without underside covers in dirty winter conditions having similar issues so ill definitely have to add regular wastegate lubing to the maintenance schedule.


the van does a lot of sitting around lately, and i thought id try to give it a little more love on the occasional cold start with a zerostart pan heater.

havent had a chance to use it yet, not having an occasion to move the van, but after seeing this video im sold.


Link


it doesnt get to crazy temps like 0F here, but with all the quirkiness of the turbo mounting and oil flow/drain, it seems like every little bit would help.

it was relatively inexpensive and install took all of about 20 minutes so itll be an interesting experiment.

next up when it gets a turn to sit at the shop in a month or so will be reworking the airbox inlet plumbing and adding back in a factory pillar snorkel.
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gone, but not forgotten: '83 tdi westy - swap thread

[valvecovergasket]

getting it back into the shop took longer than expected

sadly i think after this spring/summer we're very likely posting this for sale... but in the meantime no reason not to put on all the parts that have been sitting around the shop


it has a hitch now!

that took more massaging to fit than expected but it seems to be a really sturdy unit.


now its time to tear apart just about everything that pivots (and squeaks and groans...) underneath.

im marooning this thing in the back of the shop to keep the lift bay open since im not 100% sure how long itll take with this being somewhat on the backburner. and ive forgotten how much of a workout it is to do suspension work on the ground ... definitely spoiled...



hard to convey in pictures of course, but these are some of the most roasted ball joints ive ever seen. massive play with even the slightest wiggling by hand.

both shocks were completely toast, and more or less every bit of suspension rubber underneath was totally gone.

plan is to put on the full poly bushing set, new tie rod ends, T3 tall upper ball joints, and T3 lowers. T3 steering rack brace, T3 sway bar, refresh the brakes, and some good bilsteins and gowesty lift springs.

then, will move to the rear and do the same back there ... along with some intake rework and hydraulic motor mounts when i have the back end apart.
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gone, but not forgotten: '83 tdi westy - swap thread