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1968BUGMAN
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Joined: April 12, 2019
Posts: 246
Location: Southern California
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 Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 1:04 pm Post subject: 1968 Daily Driver Build |
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I bought my first car, a early 1968, last spring. Since then I have done a lot of work, but unfortunately not taken photos of everything. I also never started a build thread so I will have to catch up on all of the work that I have done. I did start a threat titled Getting Your Bug to Run Again, but that was just focusing on the work that I did to the engine.
So to start off I found this car on Craigslist listed for $1800 and it was about 2 1/2 hours away in the California desert. The listing said that the car ran, but when I called he said that it didn't. He also said that he would be selling it for $1500 since it didn't run. When I met with him we noticed that the wire that went from the coil to the distributor was unplugged and the wire that went to the condenser was unplugged as well. We then tried to jump start it and we got it to run for a couple of seconds. I ended up buying the car for $1300.
Edit:
Here are photos that sort of shows the original condition of the car
Rust:
Upon further inspection once we got it home it turns out that none of the following things worked: tail lights, turn signals (didn't even have the switch), 4 way flashers, headlights, speedometer, brakes, and other stuff that I am probably forgetting. The first thing was to make sure that the brakes worked, so I bought a new master cylinder, but this didn't fix it. I didn't realize that I had to bench bleed the master, but once I did it worked fine
For the engine I started with basic parts, spark plugs and plug wires. Then we adjusted the valves and checked the points (also got a full dizzy tune up kit), as well as did a static timing. It started and I even got the choke to work. It was pretty easy to drive with the choke on, but once it turned off there was a major dead spot and it was almost impossible to drive. Once I talked to the guys at Pierside Parts I decided that I would have to buy a new carb. So I got some used IDF's which I ended up rebuilding, but they still only kind of worked. Eventually I decided that those wouldn't work so I got Weber 34 ICT's from CB Performance. This made the car run really well.
But then about 2 weeks ago it backfired for about 10 seconds and then it just died. I decided that it was probably a dizzy or coil problem so I started with buying a new bosch coil and checking the points and condenser. The points had a hole in them so I put in the points and condenser that were in the car when bought it. It then ran pretty well, until it didn't. I went driving and it died and didn't start again. I took of the cap and realized that the distributor shaft was popping out of it's spot and then it would spin freely (the body of the distributor didn't move), this happened despite the clamp being tight. So I had to get my dad to pick me up and then we drove to Pierside for a new distributor. I got a CB Performance Magnaspark II kit. We then spent about 1 1/2 hours installing it in the parking lot and then started the car. We timed it by ear and I was able to drive home just fine. This is all that I have done to the engine to this point.
Although, it was leaking oil from the valve covers so I bought the EMPI bolt on ones and then used gasket sealant and it stopped the leaks. And ... when I did an oil change I found a giant chunk of engine case on the screen, but this hasn't seemed to be related to any problems, so I will ignore it for now. I have driven it for a few hundred miles since then and there have been no problems.
Once I get home I will post whatever photos I have from the car before I did work to it. I will also update it with the multitude of things that I have done to it so far.
Rust
Electrical
Crash Damage
Bad Welds
Exterior
Interior
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1968 Beetle Project | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...ae8942450a
Installing a Stereo Into a Classic VW | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9502179#9502179
Last edited by 1968BUGMAN on Mon Jan 13, 2020 5:54 pm; edited 4 times in total |
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Tim Donahoe
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| Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 3:42 pm Post subject: Re: 1968 Daily Driver Build |
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Sounds like you’re getting a handle on it. When you post pics, be sure to include the chunk of metal that was in the oil-sump screen.
Tim
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Tom K.
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SBD
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| Posted: Fri Jan 10, 2020 9:53 pm Post subject: Re: 1968 Daily Driver Build |
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"Just $99 down and $64 a month for 36 months buys you a brand new Volkswagen Beetle!"
| mark tucker wrote: |
| I wouldent waste $ or thyme on building a small motor. build it big so it dosent have to work hard.remember it's only as fast as your foot alows it to be unless you build a small turd then it just stinks as it squishes up through your toes when you step on it. |
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Buggeee
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1968BUGMAN
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Joined: April 12, 2019
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Location: Southern California
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1968BUGMAN
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Posts: 246
Location: Southern California
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1968BUGMAN
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Location: Southern California
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1968BUGMAN
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FreeBug
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Location: deepest, darkest Switzerland
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| Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 1:30 pm Post subject: Re: 1968 Daily Driver Build |
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| 1968BUGMAN wrote: |
Just did an edit to the original post with some pictures. Also, here is pictures of the metal chunks.
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That's not engine case, that's piston. |
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1968BUGMAN
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| Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 1:57 pm Post subject: Re: 1968 Daily Driver Build |
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 That is not good. I'm hoping that it won't lead to problems. There is no way that I can rebuild the engine. I mean maybe I could drop the engine take it apart, have it align bored, get new pistons and put it together within a week, but that is pushing it and then I wouldn't have a car. Plus that's kind of expensive. Do you think that it is something that is worth taking the engine apart for?
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1968 Beetle Project | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...ae8942450a
Installing a Stereo Into a Classic VW | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9502179#9502179 |
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FreeBug
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| Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 2:47 pm Post subject: Re: 1968 Daily Driver Build |
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| Maybe Include something to indicate scale in your pictures, especially the first? That would help determine the size of the nuggets. |
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1968BUGMAN
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TDCTDI
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| Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 4:52 pm Post subject: Re: 1968 Daily Driver Build |
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| 1968BUGMAN wrote: |
| That is not good. I'm hoping that it won't lead to problems. There is no way that I can rebuild the engine. I mean maybe I could drop the engine take it apart, have it align bored, get new pistons and put it together within a week, but that is pushing it and then I wouldn't have a car. Plus that's kind of expensive. Do you think that it is something that is worth taking the engine apart for? |
If you think that it's expensive & inconvenient now, wait until the engine tosses a rod.
If you drop the engine & pull the heads and find that the pieces are from a piston, You could just put a new set of pistons on it & maybe do a valve job. Not ideal but you might save the engine.
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Do something, anything, to your project every day, and you will eventually complete it. |
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1968BUGMAN
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Buggeee
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SBD
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| Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 6:21 pm Post subject: Re: 1968 Daily Driver Build |
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| Buggeee wrote: |
| Maybe it's a souvenir from a prior failure and rebuild of the top end and has been sitting down there ever since? |
That's what I was wondering about. Leftovers from the last quick & dirty top end job? 
_________________
"Just $99 down and $64 a month for 36 months buys you a brand new Volkswagen Beetle!"
| mark tucker wrote: |
| I wouldent waste $ or thyme on building a small motor. build it big so it dosent have to work hard.remember it's only as fast as your foot alows it to be unless you build a small turd then it just stinks as it squishes up through your toes when you step on it. |
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1968BUGMAN
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Location: Southern California
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Rome
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| Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 8:32 pm Post subject: Re: 1968 Daily Driver Build |
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3 clues that your " '68" could be a '69:
-Rear window defroster with correct-looking wire sheath & grommet; started in '69
-Fuel filler flap does not have a finger-indent along the rear edge; '68 did
-Rear wheels look lowered, yet don't have excessive negative camber which would be prevalent with the '68 swingaxle. '69 was first year of independant rear suspension, which maintained a near-neutral rear wheel camber.
Have you checked the 3rd digit of your car's VIN based on the stamped frame number under the rear seat? A '69 Beetle would have the number 9 at that position; a '68 would have an 8 there. |
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1968BUGMAN
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| Posted: Tue Jan 14, 2020 9:14 pm Post subject: Re: 1968 Daily Driver Build |
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It's a swing axle, it was raised 2 in when I bought it and had positive camber. Also it was lower than it is now, by 3 inches or more, and had some crazy negative camber. But I think it was originally a auto stick. So they might have switched the tranny to swing axle. Also the tire rods were early 68. So it may be a 69 body on 68 pan. And the chassis number is a 118, I will post a photo tomorrow.
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1968 Beetle Project | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=...ae8942450a
Installing a Stereo Into a Classic VW | https://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?p=9502179#9502179 |
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