Column Rebuild

[vwfye]

Mo betta brave than I!!!!
_________________
64 No'back Speedster "Pearl"
1980s Sand Dragster "The Plunger"
LME "Little Giant Killer 3"

[t3kg]

If the switch was working before it was removed from the car and the bakelite cap isn't too loose I wouldn't disassemble it.

A loose bakelite cap can be secured by staking the inner metal sleeve within the lock cylinder with the cap compressed. There are two places where it needs to be staked, one on either side. Here are some images from Lionel's tutorial showing how to do it:

_________________
5/62 343
I WAS THERE! The 2017 Type 3 Rally / September 29–October 1 / Cayucos, CA
2014: The 2014 Type 3 Rally / October 3–5 / Cayucos, CA
2011: 50 Years of the VW Type 3 / September 29–October 1 / California Central Coast

[Clatter]

If you have to ask, you can't afford...

https://www.vintagecarparts.de/artikel.php?set_sho...311905851A
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Clatter]

Got a few more hours in on the column..


Bearing comes out easily.
Was worried it would get mangled,
But it's just a gentle drifting with a good sized socket required.

There are 22 balls in there - for the record.

It was easy to clean them all up in gas and re-grease.
Still feels a -tad- bit lumpy afterwards, these ones,
We'll see about finding a better set; may, or may not, NBD..


A bit o' wire-wheeling to get a head start,
Then the big parts get blasted.

Once blasted, they get a bit o' phosphoric,
it's damp here now, and it might be a while before I can paint.
(Ignore the wiper linkage arms).

Once clean, the wire holes inside get opened up a bit.
There is a ridge of casting flash making a 'choke point';
No doubt makes passing those wires thru more difficult.

After the column housing was all cleaned up, it will be ready for some paint.
This is "Hot Rod Black Satin" a.k.a. semi-gloss.
It's a two-part real auto paint that dries by chemical reaction.
One time use - you pull the tab and it mixes,
And you get one shot because it will harden in the can.
No doubt regular old rattle-can would not be tough enough to survive the keys dangle/banging against it long term.

Also blasted the outside of the wheel adaptor.
Pet peeve of mine - those shiny adaptors..
Now's my chance to paint it to match.

Also sussed the hanger biscuit rubber block;
These seem to only be available used; just get the best used one you can.

Still need to clean up the signal switch and arm,
Then squirt it all in one shot.
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[squaretobehip]

[OKType3Tim]

When unsoldering wires there is product that "wicks" the liquid solder away. Example:

https://www.amazon.com/NTE-Electronics-SW02-10-No-...NrPXRydWU=
_________________
'69 Squareback restoration
'69 Fastback restoration
'66 Type34

[Clatter]

Thanks for sharing the info, gentlemen; Much Appreciated.

Dimmer switch button assemblies are still out there NOS.

Even came with my missing screw!


Un-soldered the old one at the button.
Allowed me to blast the assembly clean.

Used glass beads on this,
Hopefully it won't damage the fragile bakelite pieces in there.

Took apart an old harness I have lying about;
The middle of an old harness always seems to have nice bright flexible preserved wires in the exact color you need.
Only the wire with the two different colored stripes was not to be found,
So I just decided to splice/save it.


Here's my first session back in the saddle with soldering..
Will need to re-do this one methinks;
Stripped off too much, left more bare wire than is ideal.

Anyways,
Did all of the other stuff in glass beads to smooth it out a bit for painting and general cleanliness.

Just need a warm enough day to shoot paint...
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Clatter]

Warm day came along..

Started by using some Metal-2-Metal filler on pitted signal arm.
Not sure if it was from use or what..
Maybe eating tacos with hot sauce while driving??

Got pits filled and arm sanded smooth.

A coat of epoxy to 'glue down' the paint.

2-part rattle-can from auto paint store worked very well.

Because the whole column casting was a bit rough,
And I didn't see any filler when stripping it,
I left it a tad rough.

Not sure if that is correct or not..

The color is actually black,
But under a blue sky the reflection makes it look very light.
It's not.

Am also happy to report that after a couple days' drying,
The 2-part rattle-can has held up very well.

Unlike regular rattle-can, you cannot scratch it with a fingernail.
Additionally, it will survive a guick wipe-down with solvent without wiping away.

So FWIW.. My findings.


Looking forward to some assembly here soon.
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[VWporscheGT3]

looking good!
_________________
Schnell, SCHNELL!

I like being wrong, Because, it is another opportunity to learn. If you stop learning from your mistakes than what is the point?

If you have any questions about Forged ICON 4032 VW pistons just shoot me a line.

[Clatter]

[Bobnotch]

Steve wrote:
AIGH!

Here it sits, mocking me.

It worked perfectly.

The cap is maybe a 'little' loose.

I think in the end,
How stupid will I feel if it starts acting up in short order?

Do I really think that I'll be into going back in here again?

Wouldn't I just kick my self for leaving this crusty as the rest of everything else?

[ataraxia]

Steve got in touch with me and we both learned that I've divested of the stash of early ignition switches I'd collected over the years - just have the one spare scripted ignition switch for my car. It's been about a year since I've done anything with my car or parts.

If Steve's luck is anything like mine - a super killer deal on a NOS ignition switch will pop up right after he's put it back together and installed it in the car.

[t3kg]

Tighten up the bakelite cap and use it as is. It'll probably work fine for many years. Then after it's back together, keep an eye out for an NOS switch to keep on hand for the future. They turn up, just like Josh says. Sure enough, one found me as soon as my column was reassembled!
_________________
5/62 343
I WAS THERE! The 2017 Type 3 Rally / September 29–October 1 / Cayucos, CA
2014: The 2014 Type 3 Rally / October 3–5 / Cayucos, CA
2011: 50 Years of the VW Type 3 / September 29–October 1 / California Central Coast

[Bobnotch]

[Clatter]

Alright.. Since there's an NOS lock cylinder somewhere, someplace, sometime in my future..
(Plus the cap on mine was mostly tight, and it -was- working perfectly).

I decided to just leave it all assembled!

Let's hope I don't come to regret that later.

Put a couple drops of engine oil on the sliding pin and stabbed it in..


Was all proud of myself for finding original wires in good shape;
Salvaged the correct gauge and color from an old harness I had lying about.
Nice how wires hidden deep inside a main harness run are still pliable, and the colors bright.
(And not melted.. )

Only one wire was not to be found, one with -two- colored stripes.
That one I spiced carefully with solder and shrink-wrap to re-use.
Also had to make a 'Red with black stripes' using a sharpie marker..

At first, I was all proud of my solder job;
Didn't burn the bakelite cap, but got a good purchase.

I tinned the stranded ends before stabbing them thru the terminal,
And therein lied my trouble.
That black wire on the terminal marked 15/54..
It was too stiff to bend out of the way.
The cylinder wouldn't go in.
Had to pull it,
Then re-solder it in place in-situ after cylinder went home.
Didn't get a pic; was in the zone.


Had a good bit o' fun putting things together..

Re-did the ground wire to the bearing,
Stabbed in my NOS dimmer button.
Look! It has a screw now!!

Ran all ignition wires down the left side of the column,
And the rest down the right.
Ignition wires are fat and the others thin; seemed to work/fit OK.

Made this little fish-hook from a piece of stiff wire to pull thru.

Here's a little thing I messed up..
That wire on the right; that thing needs to go straight in like the other two.
No big deal.

Was all set to finish up when the power went out for the rest of the day..

Anyways,
A bunch of parts either painted or glass-bead blasted (or both).
Fresh wires in place, bearing all clean and re-lubed (Thanks, josh).
Drop of oil on the hinges for the cancelling mech,
Dollop of blue Lock-Tite on the screw that holds the cylinder retainer,
Grease on the big return spring.

It's all a joy at this point..


Let's just hope it works.
_________________
Bus Motor Build

What’s That Noise?!?

[Qldelsie]

Clatter, sorry if I have missed it somewhere, but what year is your column supposed to be ? I have mine (1970) in pieces at the moment, and it looks very different from yours
Giles

[t3kg]

Nice work!

[Bobnotch]

Nice job Steve. Like Scott, I too had to get out my black sharpie to add a stripe. Hopefully it all works once it's all together. Use a VOM to double check before installing it into the car. I like to double check electrical stuff whenever I have to do anything to it.
_________________
Bob 65 Notch S with Sunroof
71 Notch ...aka Krunchy; build pics here;
http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=249390 -been busy working
64 T-34 Ghia...aka Wolfie, under construction... http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=412120

[Clatter]

[Clatter]